You probably already know how to scan a QR code with your phone. It’s simple enough: just open the camera app, point your phone at the code, and tap the link. What if you’re on your computer, though? You could point your phone at the computer screen, but that inter-device dance isn’t necessary. You can open that code right from your laptop or desktop. 

Scan a QR code in Google Chrome

Google Chrome users have it the easiest, as the browser has a built-in feature specifically to handle this situation. Right-click the image containing the QR code and click Search Image with Google. 

This will open a Google Lens panel to the right of your browser window. At the top you’ll see your image. Below that you will see the words QR code: Text, along with the text contained in the QR code. If the text is a link you will also see a button for opening the link. 

Non-Chrome users can still access this feature, it just requires an extra step. Simply head to Google.com in your browser of choice and click the Search by image icon, which is in the right side of the search bar.

You can upload an image with a QR code, if you want, or provide a URL for the image. Either way Google Lens will open and let you know what’s in the QR code. 

Scan a QR code with your webcam

Sometimes you have a QR code on a sheet of paper but your phone isn’t handy. Your laptop has a camera, though, and you can use it instead. 

In Windows 10 and 11 you can use the Camera app, which is included with your operating system. You can find this application by opening the Start menu and searching for “Camera”. Scanning is simple: hold your QR code in front of your webcam and click the QR code button. 

Apple’s macOS does not have a built-in camera application capable of scanning QR codes. The good news: the free application QR Journal, which you can download in the Mac App Store, can use the webcam to scan QR codes. 

The post How to open a QR code on your computer appeared first on Popular Science.

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Billions of people currently use WhatsApp to chat on mobile, and with good reasons. The app is packed with features, offers end-to-end encryption for users, and provides a rich experience on multiple platforms.

If you’ve invested a lot of your messaging time into WhatsApp, then you’re not going to want to leave behind those chats when you upgrade to a new handset. Thankfully, WhatsApp has you well covered here, and the migration process isn’t difficult.

There’s even provision for making the typically difficult jump from Android to iOS or vice versa. The process of moving chats is different in each case, but no matter which devices are involved, it won’t take more than a few minutes.

Android to Android

You shouldn’t have much trouble restoring your WhatsApp messages on a new Android phone if your old phone is an Android device too. On your old phone, first make sure everything is backed up to Google Drive: Tap the three dots (top right), then Settings and Chats, then Chat backup. Hopefully you won’t need this backup, but you’ll be glad to have it if something goes terribly wrong.

Then, install WhatsApp on your new phone. Once you’ve signed in with your existing phone number, the app should recognize you have chats on another device that you might want to move over. Tap Transfer from the old device when you see the prompt to do this, follow the instructions, and you’ll get a QR code on screen.

You then need to go back to WhatsApp on your old phone, which will be ready to scan the QR code on your new phone. Once you’ve scanned it, accept the invitation to link the devices together, and you’ll see a progress bar on screen.  When you see the confirmation that the transfer is complete, tap Done and you’re ready to go on your new phone.

You don’t have to use this direct transfer method, but it does mean your chats don’t need to go to Google Drive and back. You can also restore a WhatsApp backup from Google Drive: This option automatically appears if you install (or reinstall) WhatsApp on an Android device, and log in with a phone number associated with an existing backup. Just tap Restore to bring your chats back.

iOS to iOS

As with Android-to-Android transfers, you don’t necessarily need a chat backup if you’re jumping from one iPhone to another, but we’d recommend that you set one up anyway.  On your old iPhone, open WhatsApp and choose Settings, Chats, and Chat Backup. Backups on iOS make use of Apple’s iCloud storage service.

Go back to the Chats screen, then choose Transfer Chats to iPhone and Start, and a QR code is shown on screen. Now you can turn your attention to your new iPhone, where you should install the WhatsApp app and set it up using your existing phone number. When that number is recognized, you’ll be prompted to carry on with the chat transfer process you’ve already initiated, so tap Continue to accept.

Scan the QR code that pops up on your old iPhone using your new iPhone. That gives WhatsApp all the information it needs to beam your conversations between devices, and you’ll see a progress bar shown on screen while this happens. When the transfer is complete, tap Next to carry on using WhatsApp on your new iPhone.

Should that not work as intended, you can restore a WhatsApp backup on iOS instead. The restore option only appears when you first install WhatsApp though (so you might need to uninstall and reinstall it): When you’ve registered your existing phone number, select the Restore Chat History message that appears on screen.

Android to iOS

If you’re going from Android to iOS, then the only way to move your WhatsApp chats over is to use the Move to iOS app for Android. It takes care of transferring data across a whole range of apps, including WhatsApp—it can also move across all of your Google contacts and calendars as well, for example.

Load up the Move to iOS app and just follow the instructions on screen—you’ll need to enter the code displayed on your new iPhone to confirm that you want to link the devices. The important screen is the transfer data screen, where you want to make sure that the WhatsApp option is selected, alongside any other types of data you need to move across.

The Move to iOS app will take care of signing you out on Android, and when you get the confirmation that the data has been sent over, you can go ahead and install and open up WhatsApp for iOS. As long as you log in using the same phone number you’ve been using, you should see a prompt to finish the transfer of conversations.

There’s no way to restore WhatsApp messages from a Google Drive backup (on Android) to WhatsApp on an iPhone—the Move to iOS app is the only option. You can, if you want, export individual chats from Android to an email archive (via Chats, Chat history, and Export chat in Settings), and start fresh on the iPhone.

iOS to Android

If you’re heading the other way, from an iPhone to an Android device, compatibility issues still create hurdles. WhatsApp on Android can’t read WhatsApp backups in iCloud, so you can’t simply sign in on a new phone and restore a backup. You can export chats to email (Chats then Export Chat in Settings), but again these can’t be restored on an iPhone.

What you can do is use the more general iOS-to-Android transfer solution that Google has built into Android, which covers a host of apps, including WhatsApp. However, you must do this when you start up your new Android phone for the first time, during the initial setup—there’s no option to do it later.

As you go through the initial setup process, connecting to Wi-Fi and so on, you’ll see a prompt to copy data from another phone: Make sure you choose Next here and not Don’t copy. Follow the instructions on screen, making sure WhatsApp is selected as one of the entries in the Apps section (it should be by default).

You’ll then need to connect your two phones with a cable: USB-C to USB-C or USB-C to Lightning. The transfer utility will then take care of the process of moving all your apps and conversations over, though you’ll still need to log in using your existing phone number when you open WhatsApp on Android for the first time.

The post How to transfer your WhatsApp chats to a new phone appeared first on Popular Science.

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ChatGPT is rarely out of the news at the moment, and the engineers behind it are regularly pushing out new features and improvements to the generative AI chatbot—including, recently, new voice and image capabilities.

[ Related: ChatGPT can now see, hear, and talk to some users ]

In simple terms, as per the OpenAI blog post, these new capabilities mean ChatGPT can now see, hear, and speak. You’re no longer restricted to text prompts when interacting with the bot, although it’s worth noting that these features remain exclusive to paying ChatGPT Plus users for the time being. At first, only a limited number of users got the features as they were rolled out, but now every ChatGPT Plus user should have access. (On November 21, ChatGPT’s voice chat feature has been rolled out to all free users.)

As well as changing how you interact with ChatGPT, these new features also widen the scope of what it can do—read you a bedtime story, for instance. Here’s what’s new, and how to make the best use of it.

Chatting with ChatGPT

If you’re a ChatGPT Plus user and you want to talk to ChatGPT, you need to use the mobile app for Android and iOS (this functionality hasn’t yet been added to ChatGPT on the web). Once you’ve signed into your account and reached the main prompt screen, tap the headphones icon (lower right) to start a voice conversation with the bot.

You’ll get a splash screen explaining what the feature does, then you can tap Choose a voice to do just that. There are five to pick from, and if you select any of them you’ll hear a short preview. Tap Confirm when you’ve decided which one you want to converse with, and you’re then ready to start talking.

Speaking with ChatGPT is as simple as just talking to your phone. When you stop talking, the app will process what you’ve said and generate a response. You’ll often find that when it’s speaking, ChatGPT will end its response with a related question, to keep the conversation going—but you can always ask to talk about something else, or tap the pause button in the lower left corner to start a new chat.

If ChatGPT isn’t quite catching what you’re saying or recognizing your pauses as you talk, you can manually give it voice inputs, walkie talkie style, by tapping and holding the screen. Say what you need to say, then release your finger and the chat will be processed—it’s a more deliberate way of talking that you might find easier.

Think about ways in which spoken responses are better: You can get ChatGPT to tell you a bedtime story, for example, or a poem on a topic of your choice. As with text prompts, you can be as specific as you like about subjects or the tone. When you’re ready to go back to the main ChatGPT interface, tap the red and white cross icon, and you’ll see the responses you’ve been given in text format. 

Image inputs and outputs

You can now prompt ChatGPT using images, whether it’s on the web or via the apps for Android or iOS. On the web, click the paperclip icon to the left of the input box, then pick the image from your computer; in the apps, tap the picture icon to choose an image from your gallery or the camera icon to take a new photo (if you can’t see these icons, tap the + button to the left of the input box).

You’ll be invited to add a prompt alongside your image, and your options here are virtually unlimited. You can ask ChatGPT about what’s inside the image, for example. You can also take a photo of a problem—like a leaky faucet—and ask about the best way to fix it, or show ChatGPT the contents of your fridge and ask for suggestions on what meal to cook.

If you’re in the mobile apps, you can tap on the image before you add the accompanying prompt, and scribble around a particular part of it—this focuses ChatGPT’s attention on a particular part of the image, which can be useful for troubleshooting problems or getting clarity about something specific.

The image generator DALL-E (also developed by OpenAI) is now integrated inside ChatGPT as well. That means you can ask for new images to be generated, as well as using your own as prompts: Ask it to produce a landscape of rolling hills, or a grimy street scene at night, or a cartoon-style rendering of an interior location. You can also ask it to modify or build on an image you provide.

As with text prompts, the more specific you can be, the better—you can be really precise about what’s in your picture, and what style is used, and how color and shade is applied. So, you might say you want to see a cartoon-style picture of fields with a well in the foreground. Or, you might want a photorealistic portrait of a CEO-type figure, rendered in black and white. If you’re not happy with the first attempt at something, you can ask ChatGPT to make changes with further prompts. To save your creations, click or tap on the generated images to find the download option.

The post How to use ChatGPT’s new image and voice options appeared first on Popular Science.

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Watching one quick video during a workday isn’t too bad—the problem is that YouTube, like chip companies, go out of their way to make sure you can’t have just one. There’s autoplay, a sidebar full of video recommendations, and so many more features designed to get you to keep watching all day. 

We’ve talked about how to avoid falling down a YouTube rabbithole in the past, but if those tips don’t go far enough, you can customize or even entirely replace the YouTube interface. These actions not only make it possible to hide all of those tantalizing features, they can also keep that adblocking warning from showing up to pester you. 

[Related: 3 ways to avoid falling down a YouTube rabbit hole]

Untrapp: Remove clutter from YouTube

Untrapp is a free browser extension that lets you customize the YouTube user interface, allowing you to remove recommendations, comments, and more. To get started just install the extension—it’s free for Chrome and Firefox, while the Safari version costs $2. Install this extension and you can customize over 150 different things. For example: you can remove the recommended videos from showing up in the sidebar when you’re watching a video, or remove the comments from every video page. You can also set the YouTube homepage to be your subscriptions, instead of the algorithmic recommendations, allowing you to follow channels you want to watch instead of letting YouTube guess for you. You can blur thumbnails, you can disable UPPER CASE HEADLINES, and stop thumbnails from auto-playing when you hover your mouse over them. 

Untrapp even lets the truly hooked set up a schedule to block YouTube at a particular time every day or block particular channels altogether. If you’re not comfortable with your YouTube habit, Untrapp is well worth checking out. 

Invidious: Replace YouTube’s interface entirely

Invidious is an alternative user interface for YouTube. Basically, it’s a website you can visit to watch YouTube videos without having to spend any actual time on YouTube itself. The technology is open source and built to respect your privacy, meaning Google won’t be able to track which videos you’re watching. It also doesn’t have any ads.

There are a few downsides. Invidious is sometimes a little slower than YouTube, for example, and occasionally a video won’t work. You also can’t use Invidious with your YouTube account—it’s a completely different website. This means features like subscriptions, comments, and tracking watched videos won’t work. If you don’t care about that, though, Invidious could be a way to watch YouTube videos without letting YouTube get its hooks into you. 

Invidious is a free service hosted on multiple servers. It’s recommended that you try a few severs out and then bookmark one that works well for you—simply use that bookmark instead of heading to YouTube. You can use a browser extension like Privacy Redirect to open all YouTube links in Invidious instead of the YouTube URL with all its distracting, attention-grabbing functions. Either way, you’ll have a much less habit-forming way to use YouTube. 

Desktop players take things even further

VLC is one of the most popular video players on the planet, but did you know it can open YouTube videos? All you need to do is click File, then Open Network Stream, then paste the YouTube URL you want to play into the URL field and click Open. The YouTube video will play like any other video in VLC. You won’t see the sidebar, the comments, or any other feature of YouTube—just the video and the usual VLC playback controls. 

That method works, but takes quite a few extra steps. If you’d like a much simpler desktop application for watching YouTube videos check out MiniTube, which costs 10 euros (roughly $11 USD) for Windows or macOS and is free for Linux users. This application, which offers a demo you can try for free, lets you browse YouTube in a beautiful desktop client without any ads, tracking, comments, or recommendations.

This is probably the nicest YouTube interface you can get on a desktop computer, which is great, but I also find it much easier to use to watch one video without being pushed to immediately gobble up another. 

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If your hands are full with groceries or books, or hanging on to a subway car handrail or dog leash, then it’s not easy to operate your Apple Watch in the normal way—by reaching over to tap the screen or pressing the Digital Crown.

That’s the thinking behind Double Tap, a new gesture available with watchOS 10.1. As its name suggests, it lets you tap your forefinger and thumb together twice, with the same hand that your watch is on, to operate the wearable without touching it. It means you can answer calls and browse through screens with one hand rather than two, and it promises to be very helpful.

For Double Tap to work, you do need the latest Apple Watch 9 or Apple Watch Ultra 2, because the AI smarts of the S9 chipset inside these models is required to recognize the gesture you’re making. You also need watchOS 10.1 (tap My Watch > General > Software Update in the Watch app on your iPhone to look for updates).

Older Apple Watch devices can still make use of a similar feature called AssistiveTouch, which is a more comprehensive way of controlling everything that happens on an Apple Watch with one hand. AssistiveTouch is available on every Apple Watch since the Apple Watch 4, including the Apple Watch 9 and Apple Watch Ultra 2.

Using Double Tap

As soon as you’ve upgraded to watchOS 10.1, Double Tap should be enabled automatically and ready to go. You can turn it off, if you ever need to, by opening up the Settings app on your watch, then choosing Gestures and Double Tap, and turning off the Double Tap toggle switch.

To double tap, lift up your Apple Watch first, as you would do if you were checking the time. On the hand attached to the wrist where your Apple Watch is, bring your index finger and thumb together twice in quick succession. The only times Double Tap won’t work is when a Sleep Focus mode is active, or when the watch is in Low Power Mode.

What the gesture triggers will depend on what’s on screen. If there’s a call coming in, it’ll answer the call. If there’s a timer running, a double tap will pause it (and restart it). If a notification has come in, it will open the notification so you can read it. In general, a double tap will perform what Apple calls the “primary action” for the screen you’re on.

For a couple of functions, you can customise what a double tap does: When music is playing you can choose whether a double tap pauses playback or skips to the next track, and when Smart Stack widgets are on screen you can choose whether a double tap advances through the widgets or opens the first available one.

To change this functionality, open the Settings app on your watch, then tap Gestures and Double Tap. Select Playback and you can pick between Play/Pause and Skip, or select Smart Stack and you can choose between Advance or Select.

Using AssistiveTouch

Another way of using your Apple Watch with just one hand is to use AssistiveTouch, which is supported on every model back to the Apple Watch 4 from 2018 (including the Apple Watch 9 and the Apple Watch Ultra 9). It’s designed for people who are physically unable to use their other hand to operate their watch, but anyone can activate it.

AssistiveTouch covers a wider range of gestures, including a double tap, and is more comprehensive in terms of helping you operate the smartwatch. Activating it is more deliberate though: It doesn’t have the fluidness and ease-of-use of Double Tap, which uses machine learning algorithms to recognize wrist and finger movements. You can’t use Double Tap when AssistiveTouch is active.

To enable AssistiveTouch, open the Settings screen on your Apple Watch, then choose Accessibility and AssistiveTouch, then tap AssistiveTouch. On the same screen you can select Hand Gestures to change which gestures do what on the watch. AssistiveTouch can also be enabled from the Watch app on your iPhone, via Accessibility, then AssistiveTouch on the My Watch tab.

With AssistiveTouch enabled, raising your wrist will show a blue ring around the screen. You then need to clench your fist twice quickly to actually activate the gestures and switch to AssistiveTouch mode, where a focus ring appears on the first item on the screen (the ring indicates that something can be selected by AssistiveTouch).

The default actions include a thumb-and-index-finger pinch to move to the next item, a double pinch to move to the previous item, a fist clench to tap an item, and a double clench to bring up the action menu (where you can pick from actions like scrolling and pressing the Digital Crown). See here for a full guide to getting around all of the watch’s features and functions using AssistiveTouch gestures.

The post How to use Double Tap to control your Apple Watch without touching it appeared first on Popular Science.

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You only realize WiFi is not as ubiquitous as you thought it was when your boss wants to hop on a last-minute video call and the coffee shop you’re at has no guest network. That’s when you’d better know how to use your phone as a hotspot.

That type of urgent scenario is not the best moment to figure out how to connect your laptop or tablet to your mobile network, so you might as well learn now. That way, the next time you find yourself in a tricky situation, you’ll be ready to hop online. 

A quick note: some mobile plans do not support hotspotting, so even though your phone has the ability to share data, nothing will happen unless your mobile service provider allows it. So before you start trying to tether your device, confirm that your plan has a dedicated hotspot quota or that you are allowed to use your phone’s data on another device. 

How to use an iPhone as a hotspot

On iOS, you’ll find the hotspot menu by opening the Settings app, and tapping Personal Hotspot. If you’re using an older version of iOS, you may need to go to Settings > Cellular > Personal Hotspot. Enabling it is as easy as toggling on the switch next to Allow others to join, but don’t do that yet unless you know you’re alone.

[Related: The best mobile hotspots of 2023]

You don’t want just anybody to piggyback on your data plan, so make sure you set up a secure password before you create a hotspot. From the Personal Hotspot menu, tap Wi-Fi password and type in a safe one—think a semi-long combination of letters (upper- and lowercase), numbers, and special characters. 

Now that your hotspot is ready to go, choose how you want to connect. Apple’s mobile devices provide some options.

2. On your laptop or tablet (or whatever other device you want to use your mobile data), open the WiFi settings and search for a signal. 

You can do this on a Mac by clicking the WiFi icon in the top right corner of your screen. Your system will automatically detect nearby networks and list them for you. If you don’t see the name of your iPhone (that’s the name of your hotspot), click Other networks. 

On a PC, open the System Tray by clicking the three icons to the left of the clock in the bottom right corner of your screen. Make sure the WiFi icon is blue (that means it’s on), then click the arrow next to it to open your computer’s WiFi settings—you’ll see a list of the available networks containing your iPhone’s name. 

3. Regardless of the make of your device, once you find your iPhone on the list of WiFi networks, select it, type in the hotspot password, and you’ll be all set.

How to use your Android as a hotspot

Before you hook any device up to your Android phone’s mobile data, you’ll need to set up your personal hotspot. Swipe down with two fingers from the top of your screen to open the Quick Settings menu, then tap the cog icon in the bottom right corner of the screen to open Settings. Go to Network & internet, then Hotspot & tethering. 

Here you’ll find a toggle switch for every way to connect a device to your hotspot: Wi-Fi hotspot, Bluetooth tethering, USB tethering, and Ethernet tethering. The last two options will be blurred out unless your phone is already connected to a device via a USB or Ethernet cable. WiFi will likely be the easiest, but if you’re interested in trying something else, you can skip to the sections on USB tethering and Bluetooth tethering below.

Connect to your Android hotspot using WiFi

1. Tap Wi-Fi hotspot to set it up. Start by giving your hotspot a name—by default, it’ll be the name of your device, but you can change it to anything you want. 

Next, set up a Hotspot password to secure your connection and prevent strangers from draining your data plan. Make sure to choose a good one—a semi-long series of letters (upper- and lowercase), numbers, and special characters. 

You have two other options you can set up. Toggle on the switch next to Turn off hotspot automatically, and your Android phone will disable the feature whenever there are no devices connected to it. You can also tap the switch next to Extend compatibility, so your phone makes more of an effort to be discoverable to other devices. This will use up more battery power, so make sure to turn it off if you’re running out of juice. 

Once you’re done setting up your personal hotspot, hit the toggle switch next to Use Wi-Fi hotspot to turn it on. 

2. On your laptop or tablet (or whatever device you want to connect to your hotspot), open 

the WiFi settings. 

On a Mac, click the WiFi icon in the top right corner of your screen. Your system will find nearby networks automatically and list them for you. If you don’t see the name you gave your hotspot, click Other networks. 

If you’re using a PC, click the three icons to the left of the clock in the bottom right corner of your screen to open the System Tray panel. Make sure the WiFi icon is on (it should be blue), and open your computer’s WiFi settings by clicking the arrow next to it. There, you’ll see a list of available networks containing your hotspot’s name. 

Use your phone as a hotspot over a USB cable

You can connect your tablet or laptop to your phone’s hotspot via a USB cable, but it’s a lot easier with an Android. When it works, though, the connection between your phone and hotspot-using device is smooth as silk. 

Connect to your iPhone hotspot through a USB cable

There’s a catch here: You may only be able to easily do this between Apple products, so you might not be able to share your iPhone’s data with your PC or Chromebook, for example. 

1. On your iPhone, make sure your hotspot is active (from the Personal Hotspot menu, toggle on the switch next to Allow others to join) and connect your phone to your Mac using a USB cable. 

2. An alert will appear on your Mac—click Trust this device. You should see your iPhone appear as a drive on your computer’s Finder and you should be able to go online. 

If you’re not connected, go to your Mac’s System Settings and Network. You should see iPhone USB on the list of services—open it, click Make inactive, then Make active, and you should be good to go.

If you don’t see iPhone USB on the list, you’ll need to set it up as a new network. Scroll down all the way, click the three-dots dropdown menu, and choose Add service. Then follow Apple’s instructions to finish the setup.

Connect to your Android hotspot using a USB cable

Tethering your Mac or PC to your Android phone is surprisingly easy, and the connection is seamless. 

1. Connect your Android phone to your Mac or PC with a USB cable.

2. Go to the Hotspot & tethering menu (Settings > Network & internet > Hotspot & tethering) and toggle the switch next to USB tethering. The option will only be available if there’s a cable connecting your phone to another device. 

3. On a PC, Windows will offer to set up the connection between your phone and laptop, but you’ll realize you don’t have to do anything—as soon as you turn on the USB hotspot, your computer will connect to the internet. 

Something similar happens on a Mac—when you connect your phone, macOS will ask if you trust it. Click Trust this device and you should automatically have an internet connection. If you don’t, go to Settings and Network, and under Other services find your phone’s name. Open the item and click the button Make Inactive, which will change to Make active. Click it again and you should be good to go. 

How to create a phone hotspot with Bluetooth

You can share your phone’s cellular data with another device over Bluetooth, but connectivity tends to be slower and more finicky than WiFi- or USB-driven hotspots. In fact, we had so much trouble getting this to work that it might only be useful as a last resort.

Connect to your iPhone hotspot using Bluetooth

For this, you’ll need to pair your phone to whatever device you want to connect to the internet—how you do that will depend on your device. 

1. On your iPhone, make sure your hotspot is on (from the Personal Hotspot menu, toggle on the switch next to Allow others to join).

2. If you’re connecting your Mac to your hotspot, go to System Settings and on the left sidebar go to Bluetooth. If you’ve ever connected your iPhone to your Mac via Bluetooth, you’ll see your phone’s name under My devices—just hover the mouse over its name and click on the Connect button that appears. If you’ve never connected your gadgets, you should find your phone’s name under Nearby devices—you may have to scroll down a bit to see it. Hover the mouse over your phone’s name, click Connect, and follow the instructions on screen. 

If you’re trying to tether your iPhone to a PC, open the System Tray by clicking on the three icons to the left of the clock in the bottom right corner of your screen. Make sure the Bluetooth icon is blue (that means it’s on) and click the arrow next to it to open your computer’s Bluetooth settings. If you’ve connected your iPhone to your PC in the past, you should find your phone’s name under Your devices, but if you haven’t, you’ll find it under New devices. Either way, just click on it and follow the instructions on screen to establish a connection. 

Once the devices are paired, you’ll need to connect to the internet on your laptop. It’s very different depending on the make of your computer, and it’s definitely not as intuitive as hopping on a WiFi network.  

On a Mac, click the Control Center icon (two toggle switches) in the upper right corner of your screen. From the emerging menu, click Bluetooth to see a list of connected devices. Find your phone and hover the mouse over it—click Connect to Network when the option appears. 

On a PC, open Settings and go to Network & Internet. Scroll all the way down and under Related settings, pick More network adapter options. On the emerging window, you should see an item called Bluetooth Network Connection—open it, find your phone, and right-click on it. On the menu, hover over Connect using and choose Access point to connect to the web.

Connect to your Android hotspot using Bluetooth

If your devices play nice with each other over Bluetooth, you can use your mobile data plan with your laptop. Just keep in mind that some Android phones, like the Pixel 7, may have trouble connecting to a Mac computer. If that’s the case for you, we suggest you save yourself some grief by choosing the easier WiFi approach. 

1. Make sure your laptop is discoverable through Bluetooth. On a Mac, open the Control Center and ensure the Bluetooth icon is blue—if it’s not, click it to turn it on. On a PC, open the System Tray by clicking the icons to the left of the clock (bottom right corner of your screen) and make sure the Bluetooth icon is blue. If it’s not, click it to enable it.

2. On your phone, swipe down with one finger from the top of your phone screen to open the notification drawer, and on the tiles at the top of your screen, long-press on Bluetooth.

3. If you’ve tethered your phone and laptop before, find your laptop’s name under Saved devices, tap the cog icon next to it, and choose Connect on the next screen. If you’ve never paired your gadgets, choose Pair new device. Wait until your laptop appears in the list of discoverable nearby devices, and select it to start the pairing process. You’ll see prompts with five-digit codes on both screens—make sure they match and confirm the pairing. 

[Related: How to find free WiFi when you really need it]

Once the devices are paired, you’ll need to connect to the internet on your laptop. This will work differently depending on the make of your computer, and it won’t be as intuitive as hopping on a WiFi network.  

On a Mac, open the Control Center by clicking its icon (two sliders) in the upper right corner of your computer screen. On the emerging menu, click Bluetooth to see a list of connected devices. Find your phone and hover the mouse over it—click Connect to Network when the option appears. 

On a PC, open Settings and go to Network & Internet. Scroll all the way down and under Related settings, pick More network adapter options. On the emerging window, you should see an item called Bluetooth Network Connection—double-click to open it, find your phone, and right-click on it. On the menu, hover over Connect using and choose Access point.

The post All the ways you can use your phone as a mobile hotspot appeared first on Popular Science.

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The Mac menu bar is iconic. With the Apple logo in the top-left and the text menu for the current application to the right, this feature has been at the top of the screen of every Apple computer since 1981. The last big update came 10 years later when the Cupertino company added icons to the right side. The menu bar has more-or-less looked the same ever since. 

But just because Apple hasn’t really changed the menu bar in the last 40 years doesn’t mean you can’t change it now. There are all kinds of subtle ways you can take control of how the menu bar looks and functions, starting with the order of those icons in the top-right corner. Here’s how you can customize the Mac menu bar to work just the way you want. 

Organize your Icons

It’s definitely not obvious or intuitive, so it’s ok if you didn’t know that you can rearrange your menu bar icons: Just hold the Command key and drag your icons into whatever order you like. This works for every icon except three: the Control Center icon, Siri, and the clock. Those stay in the top-right corner no matter what, but everything else is fair game. 

Customize your system icons

By default, the Mac includes icons for Siri, Wi-Fi, and your battery in the menu bar. If you’d rather not see those icons all the time, don’t worry: just head to System Settings. You can get there by opening the dock icon with the gears, or clicking the Apple logo in the top-right corner and then choosing System Settings in the emerging menu. Head to Control Center on the sidebar to configure which system icons you want to show up in the menu bar. This can be a quick way to remove clutter or add relevant information. 

[Related: 4 tips and hidden settings that will speed up macOS]

You can also customize the clock from here, allowing you to add the date, day of the week, and even the seconds. You could also replace the text showing the time with an icon of an old-school analogue clock, if you like. 

What you can’t tweak here is icons for your applications.

Stop the transparency

The menu bar, by default, is slightly transparent, allowing a little bit of your desktop wallpaper to bleed through. If you don’t like this effect (and the other transparency in the macOS operating system) head to System Settings, Accessibility, and click Display. Check Reduce transparency and your menu bar will be solid white in light mode and solid black in dark mode. 

You can also customize the size a little bit—beside Menu bar size check Large and the text in the menu bar will be a slightly bigger. 

Hidden Bar is a free application for hiding the clutter

Way too many applications insist on putting something up in the menu bar, so the top-right corner of your screen can quickly look cluttered. The worst part is that there’s no native way to hide icons in macOS the way you can in Windows, for example, where you can move them to a secondary tray. On the Mac, meanwhile, the only way to hide an icon for a given application is to dig around in the app settings and hope it offers a solution—it’s a hit or miss sort of situation.

Fortunately, there’s a free application called Hidden Bar that brings this feature to the Mac. Download it from the App Store so you can hide icons by dragging them to the left while holding Command. You’ll be able to see all hidden icons by clicking the right-pointing arrow. 

It’s a very simple application that gets the job done. Why Apple hasn’t built something like this into the operating system, I will never understand. 

Bartender hides icons and changes how the menu bar looks

For many the free Hidden Bar will do the job, but Bartender ($16) offers customization options the former doesn’t have. 

Yes, you can hide icons by dragging them to the left, just like you can with Hidden Bar. But you can also create a custom rule for when to display certain icons. Want to see the battery icon, but only when you’re not plugged in? Bartender can do that, and also show you the Wi-Fi icon only when you’re not connected to a network.

You can also change the look of the menu bar with this application—apply a color tint or add a border. You can bring back the drop shadow that Apple recently removed, or even round the corners of the menu bar so it looks less like a block. 

[Related: Master your Mac by creating custom keyboard shortcuts]

Basically, if you want to tweak every aspect of how your menu bar works, Bartender is the application you’re looking for. 

Hide the menu bar altogether

Customizing the menu bar is all well and good, but what if you just wish it would go away? You can hide the menu bar in System Settings. Head to Control Center and scroll down to the bottom. In the dropdown menu next to Automatically hide and show the menu bar, select Always. From now on, the menu bar will only show up when you move your mouse to the top of the screen. The rest of the time, it’ll stay out of the way. This means you get a bit more screen real estate, allowing you to focus on the task at hand instead of whatever the icons the menu bar displays. 

The post 6 ways to customize your Mac’s Menu Bar, and another to make it disappear appeared first on Popular Science.

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There’s a new feature in the Google Bard AI assistant: connections to your other Google apps, primarily Gmail and Google Drive, called Bard Extensions. It means you can use Bard to look up and analyze the information you have stored in documents and emails, as well as data aggregated from the web at large.

Bard can access other Google services besides Gmail and Google Drive as well, including YouTube, Google Maps, and Google Flights. However, this access doesn’t extend to personal data yet, so you can look up driving directions to a place on Google Maps, but not get routes to the last five restaurants you went to.

If that sets alarm bells ringing in your head, Google promises that your data is “not seen by human reviewers, used by Bard to show you ads, or used to train the Bard model,” and you can disconnect the app connections at any time. In terms of exactly what is shared between Bard and other apps, Google isn’t specific.

[Related: The best apps and gadgets for a Google-free life]

Should you decide you’re happy with that trade-off, you’ll be able to do much more with Bard, from looking up flight times to hunting down emails in your Gmail archive.

How to set up Bard Extensions, and what Google can learn about you

If you decide you want to use Bard Extensions, open up Google Bard on the web, then click the new extensions icon in the top right corner (it looks like a jigsaw piece). The next screen shows all the currently available extensions—turn the toggle switches on for the ones you want to give Bard access to. To revoke access, turn the switches off.

Some prompts (asking about today’s weather, for instance) require access to your location. This is actually handled as a general Google search permission in your browser, and you can grant or revoke access in your privacy settings. In Chrome, though, you can open google.com, then click the site information button on the left end of the address bar (it looks like two small sliders—or a padlock if you haven’t updated your browser to Chrome 119).

From the popup dialog that appears, you can turn the Location toggle switch off. This means Google searches (for restaurants and bars, for example) won’t know where you are searching from, and nor will Bard.

As with other Google products, you can see activity that’s been logged with Bard. To do so, head to your Bard activity page in a web browser to review and delete specific prompts that you’ve sent to the AI. Click Choose an auto-delete option, and you can have this data automatically wiped after three, 18, or 36 months. You can also stop Bard from logging data in the first place by clicking Turn off.

There’s more information on the Bard Privacy Help Hub. Note that by using Bard at all, you’re accepting that human reviewers may see and check some of your prompts, so Google can improve the response accuracy of its AI. The company specifically warns against putting confidential information into Bard, and any reviewed prompts won’t have your Google Account details (like your name) attached to them.

Prompts reviewed by humans can be retained by Google for up to three years, even if you delete your Bard activity. Even with Bard activity-logging turned off, conversations are kept in Bard’s memory banks for 72 hours, in case you want to add related questions.

Tips for using Bard Extensions

Extensions are naturally integrated into Bard, and in a lot of cases, the AI bot will know which extension to look up. Ask about accommodation prices for the weekend, for example, and it’ll use Google Hotels. Whenever Bard calls upon an extension, you’ll see the extension’s name appear while the AI is working out the answer.

Sometimes, you need to be pretty specific. A prompt such as “what plans have I made over email with <contact name> about <event>?” will invoke a Gmail search, but only if you include the “over email” bit. At the end of the response, you’ll see the emails (or documents) that Bard has used to give you an answer. You can also ask Bard to use specific extensions by tagging them in your prompt with the @ symbol—so @Gmail or @Google Maps.

[Related: All the products Google has sent to the graveyard]

Bard can look up information from emails or documents, and can read inside PDFs in your Google Drive. For example, tell it to summarize the contents of the most recent PDF in your Google Drive, or the contents of recent emails from your kid’s school, and it will do just that. Again, the more specific you can be, the better.

In terms of YouTube, Google Maps, Google Flights, and Google Hotels, Bard works more like a regular search engine—though you can combine searches with other prompts. If you’re preparing a wedding speech, for example, you can ask Bard for an outline as well as some YouTube videos that will give you inspiration. If you’re heading off on a road trip, you could combine a prompt about ideas on what to pack with Google Maps driving directions.

We’ve found that some Bard Extensions answers are a bit hit or miss—but so are AI chatbots in general. At certain times, Bard will analyze the wrong emails or documents, or will miss information it should’ve found, so it’s not (yet) something you can fully rely on. In some situations, you’ll get better answers if you switch over to Google Drive or YouTube and run a normal search from there instead—file searches based on dates, for instance, or video searches limited to a certain channel.

At other times, Bard is surprisingly good at picking out information from stacks of messages or documents. You can ask Bard “what’s the most cheerful email I got yesterday?” for example, which is something you can’t do with a standard, or even an advanced Gmail search. It’s well worth trying Bard Extensions out, at least briefly, to see if they prove useful for the kinds of information retrieval you need.

The post How to use Bard AI for Gmail, YouTube, Google Flights, and more appeared first on Popular Science.

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Making the iPhone keyboard bigger is one of the easiest ways to make Apple’s phones easier to use. Doing so will allow you to see the keys more clearly, providing a more comfortable typing experience and reducing your chances of pressing the wrong characters. This is particularly helpful if you have larger fingers or visual impairments.

Follow along with our step-by-step instructions on how to enlarge the keyboard on your iPhone, and stick around for additional iPhone keyboard settings tips and tricks that should improve your ability to interact with your iOS device.

How to make the iPhone keyboard bigger, instantly

The quickest way to get a larger iPhone keyboard is to rotate your device until it’s horizontal. This will automatically switch the screen orientation to landscape, providing a wider, more spacious keyboard for easier typing.

If the keyboard won’t turn sideways, your phone is locked in portrait orientation. To remedy this on an iPhone without a Home button, swipe down from the top right corner to open the Control Center. If you have a phone with a Home button, swipe up from the bottom edge of your screen to get to the same place. Then tap the Portrait Orientation Lock button (a padlock with an arrow around it) to ensure it’s off—it will display in red if on and locked.

Set the keyboard to display only uppercase letters

The iPhone keyboard alternates between lowercase and uppercase letters depending on the shift setting, but the lowercase characters can be harder to see. To make each key easier to identify, you can tell your iPhone to always display uppercase keys, simulating a physical keyboard with all keys printed in capital letters. You will still be able to type in lowercase letters as long as shift or caps lock is off.

[Related: 24 iPhone settings that feel like secrets]

To see only uppercase letters, go to Settings, tap Accessibility, then Keyboards. Toggle off the switch next to Show Lowercase Keys, and you’ll make the keyboard letters bigger.

Make your iPhone keyboard bold

Bold type is easier to see, making text and letters stand out. To make your iPhone keyboard more bold, and therefore, bigger, go to the Settings app and select Display & Brightness. From there, tap Text Size and hit the toggle switch next to Bold Text. Now, the letters on your keyboard and the text you type and see on your phone will be bold.

Switch to Zoom view

The iPhone’s Zoom function will allow you to magnify the entire screen, making it easier to see and interact with the content. Just be warned: enabling Zoom will activate it immediately, and you may struggle to go back to normal. If you need to turn Zoom off, double-tap the screen with three fingers. Now that we’ve hopefully prevented a stressful situation, you can enable the feature: Go to the Settings app, select Accessibility, and turn on the toggle switch next to Zoom.

From there, you will see instructions for controlling magnification with finger taps.

You can also adjust the Zoom level according to your preference:

• Follow Focus: Stays focused on typed and selected text.
• Smart Typing: Zooms into the text box to make it easier to see when typing.
• Keyboard Shortcuts: If you’ve connected an external keyboard to your iPhone by enabling full keyboard access, this will let you use shortcuts on that keyboard to control Zoom.
• Zoom Controller: Lets you slide your finger around the screen to choose what Zoom focuses on.
• Zoom Region: Allows you to use Full Screen Zoom or Window Zoom (partial screen zoom).
• Zoom Filter: Customizes the color of your screen when Zoom is enabled. Choose from: None, Inverted, Grayscale, Grayscale Inverted, or Low Light.
• Maximum Zoom Level: Drag the slider to adjust the level of Zoom.

Use a third-party keyboard app

Maybe the iPhone keyboard just doesn’t cut it, and you’d prefer something else. Thankfully, customizing your iPhone by adding a third-party keyboard is simple. First, go to the App Store and search for one of the best keyboard apps. After you install the one you want, go to the iPhone’s Settings app, tap General, Keyboard, and hit Keyboards.

Next, select Add New Keyboard. Find the third-party keyboard app on the list and tap on it to add it to your active keyboards. To use your new keyboard, open the app itself and make any modifications that will make the keyboard bigger.

Boost your iPhone’s text size

Increasing the size of the text on your iPhone’s screen can make it easier to see what you’re typing (and reading). To change your iPhone’s text size, go to the Settings app and select Display & Brightness. There, tap Text Size and adjust the slider to make the text larger.

This won’t change the size of the keyboard, but it’s still a useful tip if you’re struggling to see what’s written on your iPhone’s screen.

[Related: Best iPhone 14 cases]

Change your iPhone keyboard sensitivity

If you’re having trouble typing on your iPhone, you may want to consider adjusting the keyboard’s sensitivity. This will determine how your phone responds to how long you press and hold your finger on the screen. To find it, got to Settings > Accessibility > Touch, then tap Haptic Touch.

The post How to make the keyboard bigger on an iPhone, so you can finally see what you’re doing appeared first on Popular Science.

Articles may contain affiliate links which enable us to share in the revenue of any purchases made.

With hundreds of thousands of Android games on the Google Play Store, it can be tricky to find ones that are suitable to play. Often, the games we see advertised the most for Android phones and tablets are also the most predatory. Avoiding games designed more to take our cash than to entertain us is difficult, but we can help by recommending five of the best Android games that break the mold and still provide plenty of fun.

 Super Auto Pets

Super Auto Pets is an answer to auto-battling games like Hearthstone: Battlegrounds, Riot’s Team Fight Tactics, and Marvel Snap. The game has a clear monetization scheme and instantaneous unlocks, yet still holds onto the addictive gameplay loop the aforementioned auto-battlers have. But the obsession comes from fun and achievements, not grinding out currency and unlocks.

During gameplay, you’ll assemble a team of cute animals (including a dinosaur or two), feed them, and head off to battle. As the primary game mode is asynchronous, it’s a perfect game for busy adults. You won’t have to hurry through turns if you dip into play intermittently throughout the workday. If you have time, however, you can sit down for a ranked match, which plays like more typical multiplayer online games. What animals (and food) you play with are determined by sets, which can be purchased in full with a single direct purchase, no “gems” or other in-game currency required. The first set is free and you can eventually play with all animals for free via weekly random and/or curated sets.

Super Auto Pets is free, and you can buy additional packs in the app.

2. Vampire Survivors

Vampire Survivors became a cult classic on PC during the summer of 2023. With graphics that can be described as “1998 DOS freeware” and a user interface defined by only one word—chaotic—this is definitely a stylized game. The effect is outstanding, however, and a satisfying game loop quickly seals players within its grasp.

Each session starts with a character and a weapon or two, automatically flying about the screen. As your weapon hits enemies who increasingly crowd around you, numbers begin to fly everywhere, levels rise, and resources accumulate. Regular pauses in the action give you a chance to breathe and plot, while also giving you access to items that will improve your build. As time progresses, so does the intensity of the opposition, with the final bits of action proving the true power of your build and if you’re worthy of unlockables.

Vampire Survivors is free with in-app purchases.

3. Dominion

Dominion is a classic board game. Now, it has a new Android app edition, suitable for both new and recurring players. Dominion is a deck-builder that emphasizes trade-offs and long-term planning. Each turn, you collect cards that either boost your score or your potential to grab even better cards later. Grabbing early-game, high-point cards while you can will always feel good, for example, but seeing those cards (dead weight in your hand) again and again throughout a match can feel exhausting.

As mentioned, this game originates from older source material. However, this digital rendition is a fairly new implementation of the game, and at the time of this writing, it remains in early access. As a result, if you’ve been put off by other mobile implementations of board and card games of this era, you should strongly consider coming back for Dominion to see if a new generation of graphics, UI innovations, and controls can get you in the game.

Dominion is free, and you can buy expansions in the app.

4. Peglin

Take PopCap’s Peggle, toss in a Slay the Spire overworld and character development system, and throw in some unique thematic arcs of its own and you have Peglin. Essentially, the game’s core loop is you—depicted as a green goblin with pointy ears—throwing rocks and orbs through a board to hit pegs. To oversimplify greatly, the more pegs you hit, the more damage you do to oncoming monsters. It’s a hit-or-be-hit world. After battles end, you get to add a new rock or orb to your backpack and, potentially, get the chance to attend an event or obtain a game-changing artifact.

While the opening act of the game, set in a forest, feels like Peggle with RPG mechanics on top, that feeling doesn’t last. By the time you’ve prevailed past a castle and into the void, gravity and gameplay will both be significantly different. Mastered all the areas? You’ll still have the “cruciball” challenge, which tilts the odds against you, and new characters to play with as well. Plus, the developerss keep updates coming, both improving upon the game and adding new orbs to fight with. Peglin is a fully-contained offline adventure.

Peglin is free with in-app purchases.

5. Shattered Pixel Dungeon

If you want a traditional, adventure roguelike Android game, then Shattered Pixel Dungeon is worth your time. Ditching awkward numpad controls and step-by-step movement, Shattered Pixel Dungeon takes you on a finger-accessible journey with mobile sensibilities. Collecting items, discovering the unknown, and bashing enemies with swords and spells are all still there in all their traditional roguelike glory for you, though.

[Related: The best Android apps for your Chromebook]

You may already be familiar with part of the title of the game, and that’s because it comes as a fork, or separate branch, of the open-source code of Pixel Dungeon. While other forks of this game exist, Shattered Pixel Dungeon is generally favored above others for its consistent development, plethora of extra items and entities, and nearly 10 years of independent history. If you like this game, other Pixel Dungeon variants may also be worth a spin.

Shattered Pixel Dungeon is free to play.

While these games are meant to be best enjoyed on an Android phone, the fun doesn’t have to stop there. If you’d like to get them on a bigger screen, check out our guide on how to use Android games on PC.

The post The best Android games for unlocking new worlds appeared first on Popular Science.

Articles may contain affiliate links which enable us to share in the revenue of any purchases made.

The Android versus iPhone debate continues to rumble on. But one thing is certain: Google’s phone software is still more versatile and customizable than Apple’s offering. Dig into the settings and discover Android’s secret capabilities, including a host of hidden features and useful tools. We’ve collected 12 of them here.

A quick note before we begin: Android has a wide variety of makes, models, and versions, which makes it difficult to find features that will be consistent across all devices. We only verified the following tips on stock Android 14—they should also work on related systems, but some of the menus and procedures may vary slightly.

1. Enable flash notifications for silent updates

Loud notifications are annoying, but have you ever heard a phone vibrating on a glass table? Somehow, it’s even worse. So whether you want to stay up to date with your texts in a quieter way or you’re hard of hearing, Android now allows you to set flash notifications, where your phone’s screen or built-in flash will blink to let you know there’s something new requiring your attention. 

To set it up, go to Settings, Accessibility, and Flash notifications. You’ll get two options: toggle the switch next to Camera flash to have the light on the back of your phone flash three times when you get a notification; or toggle the switch next Screen flash so that your device lets you know of any new messages by flashing a yellow overlay on your screen. You can enable either or both of them to get an even more effective visual alert. 

To see how they work, make your preferences and hit Preview. 

2. Run apps side-by-side

This feature has been around since Android 7.0 Nougat, but it’s one of the few users tend to forget about. This side-by-side or top-and-bottom app view (depending on the orientation of your screen) comes in handy when you want to display photos, optimize your social networking, or multitask.

To set it up, make sure both apps you want to see are already open. Then, open the app carousel by doing a short swipe-up gesture from the bottom of your screen. Find the recent app you want to use and press on the circular icon at the top of its preview. On the emerging menu, you should see a Split top option. Keep in mind that not all apps support this feature (like Instagram, for example), so if you don’t see this option, it’s because you can’t use it like this. If you see it, tap Split top, and the app will automatically position itself at the top or left of your screen. On the other side, you’ll see the app carousel, from where you can open a second app. This time, just swipe your way to it and tap on the preview to open it.

You’ll notice a thick black line separating both apps—from the middle drag it up or down to re-distribute your screen. To exit Split Screen mode, just drag the black line all the way up or down.

3. Lock phone borrowers inside one app

This is one of those Android tricks you need to know if you find yourself constantly lending your phone to a friend or young family member. Because if you do, you probably know that sudden anxiety that comes with the possibility of them going through your private information or posting to your social media accounts. 

App pinning lets you be generous without giving up your privacy and will lock one app to the screen until someone unlocks your device. Essentially, the user won’t be able to access any other parts of your phone without your credentials.

[Related: How to safely share your phone with others]

Screen pinning is easy to set up. Open Settings, go to the Security & privacy menu, scroll down to choose More security settings, and tap App pinning. Once you’ve turned on the feature, launch the app your friend needs to use and open the app carousel by making a short upward swipe from the bottom of the screen. Swipe your way to the app you want to pin and tap on the circular icon at the top of the preview. On the emerging menu, tap Pin. To unpin the app, swipe from the bottom of your screen and hold. This will lock your phone and you’ll have to enter your pattern, password, PIN, or biometrics to use it.

4. Activate one-handed mode

As today’s phones continue to grow in size, they become harder and harder to operate one-handed. So Google’s custom keyboard, which is the default option on certain Android phones, has a solution: A special one-handed mode that you can switch to with a simple shortcut. If you own a Pixel phone, this keyboard will be your default typing option. If you’re on a Samsung or LG phone, you’ll have to first download Google’s version and set it as your default keyboard (as demonstrated in Tip 7).

Open up the keyboard as normal and tap and hold on the comma key. Drag up to the right-hand icon to enable one-handed mode. The arrow lets you switch this smaller keyboard from side to side, the bottom icon lets you reposition it, and the top icon restores the full-size keyboard. Other phone keyboards may also have one-handed modes, but they can be harder to access than Google’s. Try looking up your phone model and searching “one-handed keyboard” to learn more.

5. Customize your experience with regional preferences

If you live in a foreign country either permanently or temporarily, you might find it frustrating that all apps and services are built to work according to that area’s specifications—metric units, calendar settings, etc. Some apps allow you to change these settings one by one, but that takes a while and you’ll have to do it all over again if you change phones, for example. 

This is why Android 14 debuted Regional preferences, a menu where you can change these settings at a system level so you don’t have to dive deep into each individual app. Find this feature by going to Settings, System, and then Languages. Once you’re there, open Regional preferences—you’ll be able to pick temperature units, number preferences, and the first day of the week. These changes will apply wherever possible within your device.

6. Choose new default apps

One of the differences between Android and iOS is that Google’s mobile operating system lets you choose different default apps for web browsing, texting, viewing photos, etc. A default app is the one that opens automatically when you try to do something on your phone—so when you click a link, for example, your default web browser app will automatically open it.

Take advantage of this flexibility by setting up the defaults as you want them. Head to Settings, go to Apps and choose Default apps. Select any of the categories on screen to see a list of installed apps that can take over default duties. For example, if you’d prefer to chat with friends via Facebook Messenger, rather than your phone’s built-in SMS app, you can make Facebook’s product your default messaging app.

7. Cast your Android screen

For a number of years, you’ve been able to broadcast your Android phone or tablet’s display to the larger screen of a television using a Chromecast. In addition to beaming video from all the usual movie and TV apps, this streaming device can mirror your phone. Take advantage of a shortcut in the Quick Settings pane especially made for this feature, which you can access by dragging down from the top of the screen with two fingers. You should find a Screen Cast option in this menu. If it doesn’t show up, swipe left on the Quick Settings menu for more options, or tap the pencil icon at the bottom to add the shortcut.

[Related: How to put video calls on your TV]

There’s also another way to set up mirroring. First, check to make sure you’ve installed the Google Home app for Android—you probably already used this program to set up your Chromecast. Open the app and choose your Chromecast and your device’s display should appear on the big screen. On your phone, tap Media and choose from Music, Video, Podcasts, or Radio and select a service to start streaming.

8. Make text and images more visible

If you’re struggling to see what’s on the screen—or, alternatively, if you want to cram as much content as possible onto the display and don’t mind doing a bit of squinting along the way—you can zoom in or out on text and objects. Not all apps will respond to these adjustments, but most of them will.

To change size settings, open Settings and go to the Display heading. From there, tap the Display size and text and drag the slider under Font size to make text larger or smaller as needed. Android 13 introduced a new slider on this menu—Display size. You can play around with it to make icons and the Google search bar chunkier.

9. Disable the lock screen at home

To keep your device safe, you need to set up a PIN code or biometrics scan to unlock your phone. But this makes it more inconvenient to access your apps. Google’s Smart Lock feature lets you remove this obstacle, giving you instant access to your phone—but only when you’re safely at home.

From Settings, tap Security & privacy, go to More security settings and choose Smart Lock. As well as disabling the lock screen when you’re at home (that’s the Trusted Places option), you can also disable the screen when your phone’s Bluetooth is connected to a trusted device, such as your car stereo unit, or when it detects you have it on you.

10. Change volume settings independently

Your device plays several different types of audio—including ringtones, notifications, alarms, phone calls, and media. If you’ve ever gone to the Settings menu and opened Sound & vibration, you’ll have seen that you can use individual sliders to adjust these audio types individually.

However, Android gives you a quick-and-easy shortcut. Tap the physical volume buttons on the side of your device to make whatever’s currently playing quieter or louder (if no media is playing, this action will adjust your ringtone volume). When you do, a small box will pop up on the screen, showing which volume setting is changing and how. At the bottom of that box, you should see three dots. Tap them, and the box will expand to show multiple volume sliders at once. This can save you a trip to Settings.

11. Bring back lost notifications

So you accidentally swiped away one of the notifications that you wanted to read fully and now you have a nagging sense someone emailed you, but are not sure. It happens. If you want to review all of your recent notifications on Android, you’re in luck. This ability is possible—though the option isn’t easy to find.

[Related: Switching from iPhone to Android has never been easier]

Tap and hold on an empty part of the home screen, and a screen-adjusting mode will pop up. Choose Widgets, and find the Settings shortcut. Drag this icon to an empty space on one of your home screens, drop it in place, and a list will automatically pop up. Choose Notification log from the list and tap the icon to open up Android’s notification history.

12. Get an always-handy magnifying glass

Other than changing display options and making icons and text bigger, Android 14 introduced a new feature that lets you magnify specific parts of your screen. To enable it, go to Settings, Accessibility, and Magnification. Start by toggling on the switch next to Magnification shortcut, which will introduce a red magnifying glass button to the right of your screen.

Whenever you need a little help looking at text, pictures, or animations, you can summon the Magnification tool by tapping the red icon. An orange frame will appear on screen, zooming into the display portion underneath it (just like a magnifying glass), and you’ll be able to move it wherever you need it. If the default zoom is not enough, use your thumb and index fingers to expand the view even more. Tap the red icon again to disable the tool.  

This story has been updated. It was first published in 2017.

The post 12 hidden Android features you should be using appeared first on Popular Science.

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One of the new iPhone functionalities ushered in with the arrival of iOS 17—like offline Apple Maps support—is StandBy mode. This feature turns your iPhone into a small smart display that will show you everything from calendar appointments to your favorite photo albums.

Perhaps the obvious use of StandBy mode is to turn an iPhone into a bedside clock, displaying the current time and even dimming the display once the lights go out. But there are plenty of other ways to use it.

StandBy mode is available on iPhones running iOS 17—that’s the iPhone XR, iPhone XS, and iPhone XS Max launched in 2018, and every handset that’s appeared since.

If you have a Pro or Pro Max version of the iPhone 14 or 15, your device can display StandBy permanently on screen. On other models, you’ll need to wake the display to see it: You can do this by tapping the display or waving your hand in front of it.

How StandBy mode works

You can enable StandBy mode by going to StandBy on the Settings screen and turning on the StandBy toggle switch. If you’re using an iPhone with an always-on display, use the Always On toggle switch to determine whether StandBy mode stays permanently on the screen.

[Related: 6 great features to try out on iOS 17]

To have StandBy mode activate automatically, charge your iPhone and prop it up on its side and at an angle (so not flat on a surface). Once your device meets all of these conditions, StandBy mode turns on—the first time that happens you’ll see a message explaining what StandBy mode is. By default, you’ll see clock and calendar widgets appear first. To quit StandBy mode, simply pick up your phone, lay it down flat, or remove it from the charger.

The feature works with both wired and wireless charging, but MagSafe chargers have a bonus functionality: StandBy mode remembers how you’ve configured it on each separate charger, so you can have different setups for different rooms (the bedroom and the kitchen, for example).

Customizing StandBy mode

Swiping left or right on the StandBy mode screen cycles through the different views available to you. There’s a widgets screen, a photos screen, and a clock screen, and on each one you can swipe up and down for different configurations.

On the widgets screen, the display is split in two so you can swipe up and down on them separately to scroll through the available widgets. You can pick from the weather forecast, your upcoming calendar appointments, and any active reminders.

Long press on the widgets screen to remove add-ons from the list (via the minus button) or add new ones (via the plus button). The widgets you see will depend on the apps installed on your phone, but there are a bunch of native ones built into iOS to get you started.

Other than the widgets available to you, you’ll see other options similar to the ones you have for widgets on the home screen. Smart Rotate will intelligently change the available widgets based on the time of day and your usual habits, and Widget Suggestions will add in widgets based on the apps you already use a lot.

A long press also unlocks options on the photos screen, allowing you to choose a particular album in your gallery that’s different to the images StandBy mode chose for you.

A long press on the clock screen brings up the available options of that particular view, but as of yet, there’s no option to add a new clock face.

Back on the StandBy screen in iOS Settings, you can customize the StandBy feature in a few more ways. The Show Notifications toggle switch determines whether incoming notifications appear in StandBy mode—enable the Show Preview on Tap Only option underneath if you’d rather not have previews (like the first lines of messages) appear on screen.

[Related: Hand gesture reactions are one of macOS Sonoma’s coolest new features]

You can also tap Night Mode and enable the Night Mode toggle switch. This feature dims the display and turns everything on it red whenever your iPhone detects it’s in a dark environment. That way, StandBy doesn’t stop you from getting to sleep. The same screen has a Motion To Wake toggle switch: Keep it on if you want to be able to wake the screen with a wave, or turn it off if you find your nightly tossing and turning is constantly lighting up the display while you’re in bed.

The post Turn your iPhone into a bedside clock with StandBy mode appeared first on Popular Science.

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Money transfer apps are incredibly useful, which is why they’re so ubiquitous. But Venmo, one of the most popular of the bunch, has a problem: by adding a social element to our spending, the platform makes all transactions public by default. 

This means that all of the internet (or, best-case scenario, your friends and their friends) knows you’ve been ordering pizzaPeruvian food for breakfast at least twice a week. Or that you bought a statue of questionable taste from some person on Facebook Marketplace. Or something beyond what we can put to print. Venmo keeps some things private, but certainly discloses enough information to let other people know who you’re spending with, and potentially on what, so finding out your friends went for brunch without you is only a matter of scrolling.

This is why you should make your Venmo private right now. Thankfully, accessing and changing the platform’s settings is easy. 

How to change your privacy settings on Venmo

1. Open Venmo and tap your profile picture in the bottom right corner of your screen. 

2. Tap the cog icon in the top right corner to open the settings menu. 

3. Go to Privacy. 

4. Under Default privacy settings, make sure you select the bubble next to Private. This will make sure transactions are only visible to you and the person who’s paying or receiving money from you. 

[Related: The 7 best apps for sending money]

There’s also a Friends option, which will make your activity visible to your friends and their friends, but we’d discourage you from going that way. Venmo is an extremely practical app people usually only use to transfer money, which is why we don’t usually think too much about who we befriend on there. Think about that one time you went out for drinks with a large group of people and one person picked up the check so everyone paid them instead. You may not even know that person well, but if they’re your friend on Venmo, they, along with all of their friends, can see how you spend your money. 

If you’ve been using Venmo for a while, you should know that changing your privacy settings doesn’t work retroactively, and will only keep your future transactions private. To protect everything from the past, tap Past transactions on the privacy menu and select Change all to private. 

To go even further, and since you’re already in the privacy menu, tap Friends list and set it to private. This will prevent people from knowing who you’re friends with on the app. To finish, toggle off the switch next to Appear on other users’ friends lists. This will ensure that, even if your friends can’t be bothered with their privacy settings, at least you won’t show up on their lists.

More Venmo privacy tips

Maybe you like the social element of Venmo and prefer to keep things between friends (and their friends). That doesn’t mean you can’t still take care of your privacy. 

Make individual transactions private

You should know that you can always make individual transactions private. This is easy to do but not very intuitive, so you might’ve missed it. 

After completing a payment, open the transfer on your timeline or profile. Under Transaction details and to the right of the date and time, you’ll see the transaction’s privacy settings in blue—tap it to change it. You’ll get the same options as on the app’s privacy menu, and you’ll be able to make your activity visible only to you and the other person, your friends and their friends, or the entire world wide web. 

Opt for nondescript descriptions

As we mentioned before, Venmo doesn’t disclose the amounts of money you transfer on the app, but it says who you’re paying, and who you’re friends with, if applicable. 

That’s a lot of information as it is, but most importantly, the platform shows everyone the description of each interaction, which usually gives away the nature of the transaction and the context. So, for example, if you see someone paying somebody else and posting a pizza or drinks emoji, you can easily assume they ate or drank together, which can easily fuel gossip or, in the worst cases, “conspiranoia.” 

[Related: It’s time to start paying for everything with your phone]

If you’re keeping things between friends, give your transactions a non-obvious description. Since this is a required field to finalize payments, you can type gibberish or anything else that doesn’t give away what the payment or request was for. If you think you might need a receipt in the future, text that person directly confirming tha transaction. 

Check your friends list often

When you search someone on Venmo or scan their account QR code, the app will immediately take you to their profile page. You’ll be able to see their picture and their name, but you’ll also be able to spot somewhat of a dark pattern—it’s easier to add them as friends than it is to just make or request a payment. 

This is because the Add friend button is immediately below a person’s account details, whereas the transfer button (a white coin and a pencil against a blue background) is all the way down in the bottom right corner of your screen. You probably know this, but you can easily miss it, especially in the “We gotta pay and go” mindset after a meal. 

Again, if you set your privacy settings to Friends, make sure you take a moment, maybe once every few months, to revise your friends list. Make sure you know everybody on there and delete anyone you might not interact with on the app again. That way you’ll have a good idea of who your audience is and keep some control over it. 

The post It’s time to make your Venmo transactions private appeared first on Popular Science.

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I, like many people, prefer texting to calling. So why does Apple think I want to talk to Siri out loud? 

I understand that in some circumstances talking out loud is easier, but when I’m in a public place I’d rather type notes to my virtual assistant than look like I’m talking to myself. This approach is particularly easy on my Mac, where I have a big keyboard ready to be used. 

If you’d also like to keep your conversations with Siri private, you can dive into the Accessibility settings to enable the Type to Siri feature and stop Apple’s assistant from responding to you out loud. 

How to turn on Type to Siri

Turning on Type to Siri is easy and the same on iPhone, iPad, and Mac devices. Keep in mind that the change only affects the gadget you’re using, so if you’re tweaking the settings on your Apple computer, it won’t affect your iPhone.

Start by opening the settings application for your device. On a Mac, you can find System Settings on the dock or by clicking the Apple logo in the top-left corner of your screen and clicking System Settings. On your iPhone or iPad you can find the Settings app either on your homescreen or in the app drawer. 

[Related: Simplify your life by creating routines for Alexa, Siri, and Google Assistant]

Continue by scrolling down on the left-sidebar, going to Accessibility, and clicking Siri.

From here, toggle the switch next to the Type to Siri option to activate it. 

From now on, whenever you summon Siri, your system will show you a text box and allow you to type instead of waiting for you to talk. On the Mac, this happens in the top-right corner of the screen. On your iPhone or iPad, your on-screen keyboard will open along with a box prompting you to chat to Siri. Type a question or request and, as always, you’ll get a response. 

No matter what device you’re using, all Siri functionalities will stay the same, so you’ll still be able to ask follow-up questions like you can when using Siri out loud. 

Note that, on the Mac, you can set a keyboard shortcut for Siri, which is perfect considering you’re using the keyboard for the actual conversation. In Settings, head to Siri & Spotlight and click the dropdown menu next to Keyboard shortcut. You can choose between three default shortcuts or create your own by choosing Customize. 

How to prevent Siri from responding out loud

You’re not talking out loud to Siri but, by default, Siri will still respond by talking back to you out loud. To change this and have her reply with a written response instead, head back to the Settings application and go to the Siri and Spotlight (Mac) or Siri and Search (iPhone and iPad) section. 

[Related: Siri, Alexa, and Google Assistant all have alternate voices. Here’s how to find them.]

Click Siri Responses and toggle off the switch next to Voice feedback. 

Note that on mobile you can’t prevent Siri from talking back at all times, and it’ll keep responding out loud whenever you’re driving. This will also happen when you’re using headphones and your iPhone’s screen is off. But the rest of the time Siri will communicate with you using text. 

The post How to text Siri instead of talking to it out loud appeared first on Popular Science.

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Whether it’s to save messages for posterity, troubleshoot problems, capture memorable gaming moments, or run tutorials, the ability to take screenshots is so essential that it’s built into Windows, macOS, Android, and iOS.

ChromeOS, Google’s operating system for their Chromebook laptops, is no different and has easy-to-use tools to grab screenshots and screen recordings. The OS also provides some basic integrated editing tools for your captured content if you need them.

Start by launching the screenshot toolbar

Taking screenshots on a Chromebook will require you to summon the screenshot toolbar. There are several ways to do this, so pick the one that works best for you. 

Newer Chromebooks come with a dedicated screenshot key—it looks like a circle inside a rectangle and you’ll find it up on the top row of the keyboard. As you might have suspected, pressing this button brings up the screenshot toolbar at the bottom of the screen.

[Related: The best cheap Chromebooks in 2023]

If your Chromebook doesn’t offer this option, you can try the overview key: This is also on the top row of the keyboard, and looks like a rectangle with two vertical lines next to it. This key brings up an overview of all your open windows, but if you hold down Ctrl+Shift and then press it, the screenshot toolbar will appear.

Finally, you can get to the screenshot toolbar by bringing up the Quick Settings panel. Click the clock in the lower right corner of the screen and on the emerging menu, click the Screen capture button.

Customize how you take screenshots on ChromeOS

No matter how you brought up the screenshot toolbar, once it’s open, your options are then the same. On the far left of it you can click either the camera icon or the video camera icon to switch between the ability to take screenshots and screen recordings.

The next three icons to the right let you grab different portions of the screen. Choose the first one to capture the whole screen, the second one to select part of it, or the third one to grab an image of a specific open window. Further to the right is a cog icon that opens the screenshot settings—most of them relate to videos, but you can also choose where in your Chromebook you save your screengrabs.

If you’re making a recording, you’ll be able to include audio from the Chromebook microphone, the feed from your webcam, along with clicks and presses from your mouse and keyboard. These are all useful options if you’re recording a tutorial or a gaming session, for example.

With everything set up the way you want, it’s time to take a screenshot or start a screen recording: For full screen captures, click anywhere on screen; to grab a specific part of the screen, use the crosshair tool to select a portion of it, or if you want to capture a single app window, just click it.  Your Chromebook will snap screenshots instantly, but for videos, you’ll see  a countdown before recording  starts. You can stop them whenever you want by clicking the red button on the shelf at the bottom of the screen.

Editing your screenshots on Chromebook

When you finish capturing a screenshot or screen recording, a small pop up appears in the lower right corner of the screen—click it to see the image or video stored on your Chromebook.

[Related: Revive your old computer by turning it into a Chromebook]

The pop up for screenshots also has an Edit button on it, though you don’t get this with screen recordings. When you click it, the image will open in the basic screenshot editor included with ChromeOS: Hover over the icons at the top to crop and rotate the picture, resize it, add annotations, or change the exposure, contrast, and saturation. 

It’s the annotation tool labeled Draw that’s perhaps most useful for screenshots. A new pane pops out on the right, showing different pen types and colors. Once you’ve made your choices here, you can start scribbling on the image. Click Done when you’re happy with the changes, or Cancel if you don’t want to save them. There’s also a link to launch the image in Google Photos on the web, where you’ll find more editing options.

The post You should learn how to take screenshots on a Chromebook (and edit them) appeared first on Popular Science.

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A router is technically a device for directing packets of data between two or more computer networks, but it’s also shorthand for the piece of tech you’re probably thinking about right now: your home WiFi router. 

A normal WiFi router creates a local area network (LAN) in your home that allows your computers, smartphones, and other devices to connect to your internet service provider’s, or ISP’s, network—enabling access to the open internet. A router is essential if you want multiple devices in your home to access the web.

For example, let’s assume you are reading this article on your smartphone on your home WiFi network. When you tapped the link to this article, your smartphone sent a series of data packets to your WiFi router requesting the contents of this article, which it then forwarded to your ISP’s network, and on to whatever server PopSci is hosted on. That server then sent the contents of this article back along much the same path to your WiFi router, which neatly handed it back to your smartphone.

Do I need a WiFi router?

If you want to connect more than one device to the internet in your home or place of business, then yes, you need a WiFi router. It’s the best way to create a WiFi network that will allow all your devices to go online at the same time. 

[Related: Device won’t connect to WiFi? Here’s what to do first.]

Most WiFi routers are also wired routers. They normally have multiple Ethernet ports so you can connect devices that don’t have WiFi capabilities, or if you want to directly access the high-speed, reliable connection that an Ethernet cable provides.

While you probably need a WiFi router, you might not need to buy one. When you sign up for an internet plan, most ISPs will send you both a modem, which allows you to connect to the internet, and a router, which creates a LAN for all your devices—though the two devices may be combined into one.

What is the difference between a router and a modem?

Although your ISP may combine both a router and a modem into a single device, the two serve different purposes. 

As we’ve discussed, a router creates a LAN and manages data on it. A modem connects your router to your ISP so you can actually browse the internet. 

If you have a router, but no modem, you will be able to create a LAN and send data between your devices. (This is how people used to play multiplayer games with their friends before online gaming.) You just won’t be able to connect to the open internet.

Now, if you have a modem, but no router, you will be able to connect one device to the internet at a time via an Ethernet cable, but you won’t have a WiFi network for multiple devices to connect to.

Are there advantages to getting your own router?

While the routers provided by ISPs will do the job, if you want the best WiFi router you can get, you will likely have to buy one yourself. There are a number of advantages to upgrading your WiFi router:

• Better WiFi routers will support newer versions of the WiFi standard, which allow for faster network speeds and a more stable connection for more devices. For example, the best WiFi 6 routers support gigabit WiFi speeds.
• Mesh routers will allow you to create a single WiFi network with multiple routers, allowing you to cover your whole home with a solid WiFi signal. 
• Most ISP routers aren’t optimized for online gaming. If you want to get the best gaming performance you can over WiFi, you should consider a dedicated gaming router.

Of course, if you just want to connect a smartphone or two to the internet, then any router will do. Just make sure to update your router security settings to keep your browsing safe and secure.

The post What is a router? It’s like your WiFi’s post office. appeared first on Popular Science.

Articles may contain affiliate links which enable us to share in the revenue of any purchases made.

Spam’s everywhere: even when you’ve dealt with the junk mail coming through the post and the unsolicited messages clogging up your email inbox, you’ve still got to deal with the spam you get through SMS and other messaging services.

Fortunately, today’s smartphones and messaging apps come with built-in tools for limiting the amount of spam you see. This means that with a little work, you can keep your conversation lists clean and free from junk.

But before technology can do the heavy lifting for you, help it help you by being more careful with your mobile number. To prevent it from ending up in sketchy marketing lists, don’t put it on forms or in any kind of communication if you can help it, and keep it away from your social media profiles on the web.

How to fight spam on iOS’s Messages

The default Messages app on iOS, covering both basic SMS texts and Apple’s iMessage service, lets you block specific numbers: Tap the name or number at the top of any conversation, choose Info and Block this Caller. Blocked texts won’t show up for you at all, but the sender won’t know they can’t reach you. To manage the numbers you’ve blocked, go to Messages and Blocked Contacts from the iOS Settings screen.

[Related: Why it’s still so tricky to track spam calls and texts]

You can also have Messages filter out spam automatically, though this ability only works on texts you receive through Apple’s own iMessage service. From iOS Settings, go to Messages and enable Filter Unknown Senders. This will create a new Filters link at the top of the conversation list in Messages: Tap it to see messages from known senders, unknown senders, or all messages together. This might include new numbers that are not yet in your contact list, so it’s a good idea to check the unknown senders folder from time to time in case you miss anything.

You can also report junk messages to Apple, which doesn’t stop the sender from texting you, but it gives their information to both Apple and your carrier. The company doesn’t explicitly say what good this does, but we’re assuming repeat scammers end up on some kind of blacklist. To report junk, swipe left on a conversation in Messages, tap the red and white trash button, then pick Delete and Report Junk.

How to fight spam on Android’s Messages

For Android users, Google’s Messages should be their default platform for both SMS and RCS texts. This app has built-in anti-spam protections that will automatically detect spam and move it out of your way, but it’s not on by default. To turn on this feature, open Messages, tap your profile picture (top right), go to Messages settings and tap Spam protection.

To see messages that have been filtered out in the app, tap your profile picture, then Spam and blocked. From here, you can tap the three dots (top right), then Blocked numbers to see the current blacklist. While Messages often deals with spam automatically, if the platform isn’t sure about a text, you’ll see a “suspected spam” dialog appear at the top of the message when you open it. If this is indeed an unwanted message, tap Report spam on the dialog to get rid of it.

If the Messages app hasn’t picked up on a spam message, press and hold on it in the main conversation list, then tap the block icon at the top (it looks like a crossed-out circle). Finish by choosing OK on the emerging dialog box to block the number and move the message to spam. The emerging box also gives you the option of reporting the sender’s details to Google, which helps it better detect spam messages in the future.

Fighting spam on WhatsApp

If WhatsApp for Android or iOS is your messaging app of choice, you can deal with spam messages without much fuss. On an iPhone, press and hold on a message in your conversation list to find the Block option. On an Android phone, press and hold on a message on the list, then tap the three dots (top right) and hit  Block.

This will prevent the person behind this number from sending you any more messages. On both Android and iOS, you’ll also see an option to report the sender to WhatsApp as well as blocking them. This means they’ll be known to WhatsApp as a potential spammer, and the platform might ultimately take action against them.

To see the numbers that you’ve blocked, and reinstate them if necessary, tap Settings, Privacy, and Blocked on iOS, or the three dots (top right), Settings, Privacy, and Blocked contacts on Android. WhatsApp won’t identify or filter out spam on your behalf, so it’s up to you to manage this list of contacts.

How to fight spam on Facebook Messenger

Unlike WhatsApp, Facebook Messenger for Android and iOS does attempt to do some kind of spam filtering. Tap the three horizontal lines in the top right of the interface and choose Message requests—you’ll see the messages from people who you aren’t currently friends with or that Facebook Messenger thinks might be spam. Occasionally, you might find genuine messages in here, so it’s worth checking every now and again.

Messages in your main chats list are from people you’re friends with on Facebook, so in theory there shouldn’t be any spam here. But there are exceptions—maybe a spambot has been impersonating a friend of yours, or a scammer has gained access to their account. In that case, verify their identity through other forms of contact and let them know of the situation.

If you go into a conversation with someone, then tap their name at the top, you’ve got three options for dealing with spam or unwanted messages. The first one is Restrict, which won’t result in you blocking the person, but Facebook will auto-archive their messages and won’t send you notifications about them. The others are Block, where the person will no longer be able to message you, and Report, where you’re reporting the account to Facebook for spam messages or something else.

Fighting spam on other messaging apps

We don’t have the space to cover every single messaging app here, but if you dig around you’ll find similar options to these in other platforms. You’ll at least get the ability to block and report spammers, even if your messaging client of choice doesn’t have its own spam filter installed.

[Related: Scammers busted in India for impersonating Amazon and Microsoft tech support]

If you use Instagram for Android or iOS to message people, you’ll see a Requests link at the top of your direct messages inbox—this is where the platform puts messages from people you’re not following. Meanwhile, you can block and report spammers whose messages get through from inside individual conversations: Just tap the sender name at the top of the chat to find the options.

Over on Signal for Android or iOS, messages from senders who are not in your contacts are flagged up as requests, though they still appear in the main chat list. When you open them, you can accept the message or block the sender. To block someone not flagged up in this way, tap the sender name or number at the top of a conversation and choose Block on the next screen.

The post Stop spam texts with some help from your favorite messaging app appeared first on Popular Science.

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There are few things more tedious than the back and forth between you and someone you need to meet. They may say they’re free whenever (me) but when you say a time and date, they wince and say that’s actually the only time they can’t get together (also me). 

To make coordinating meetings easier, Google has launched a new free Calendar feature called Appointment Schedule. The tool has been available to Google Workspace customers since early 2022, but earlier this month The Big G granted all users access to it—albeit with limitations, depending on whether they’re paying or not. 

With Appointment Schedule, you can set up chunks of availability on your calendar so that whoever wants to meet you—be that over a video call or in real life—can pick any time and date within your set parameters. The feature is highly customizable, and setting it up just right is the best way to make it work for you.

How to use Google Calendar’s Appointment Schedule

No matter the type of account you have, you’ll start setting up Appointment Schedule by going to Google Calendar in a web browser and hitting Create in the upper left corner of your screen. On the emerging menu, click Appointment Schedule, and a list of options will appear on the left side of the interface.

1. Give your appointment schedule a name. Free-tier users will only be able to create one schedule, whereas paying customers (or those who are part of a Google Workspace organization) can have multiple ones, so naming them will make things easier. Don’t spend too much time on this—you can always change it later. 

[Related: What to know about using Google Calendar’s Time Insights feature]

2. Set up an appointment duration. This will be the standard meeting duration. It can go from 5 minutes up to 23.1 hours. Why the extra 6 minutes? Who knows, but you and whoever you’re meeting will surely agree that an appointment that long is not exactly practical or productive. Don’t stress about cutting your meeting short: people can book more than one slot with you per day as long as the daily cap has not been met—more on that later. 

3. Set up your general availability. Under this setting, you’ll establish the big chunks of time you’re available for meetings. If you want this schedule to run forever until you turn it off, leave the Repeat weekly dropdown menu as it is. But if you just want to set up your availability for the next week, click on it and choose Does not repeat. 

Below this, you’ll see a list of the days of the week, and next to each one, start and end times for big availability windows. These are the chunks of time where people will be able to book an appointment with you, and you can add as many to each day as you want by clicking the plus sign to the right of each day. For example, if you’re available all day at the office, you could put down 9 a.m. to 5 p.m., but if you don’t want anybody to bother you from noon until 1:30 p.m., you can set up two availability windows around that. Once that’s done, you don’t have to repeat the settings for each day of the week—click the copy icon on the right (two rectangles on top of each other) and it’ll automatically replicate your general availability Monday through Friday.  

Note that by default, Saturday and Sunday will be set as unavailable for meetings, but clicking the plus sign will change that. 

4. Adjust scheduling. The next menus will let you fine-tune details of how you want Appointment Schedule to work. For example, you’ll be able to set when it kicks in (select Available Now under Scheduling window, or Start and end dates) and how far in advance people can book time with you (up to a year). 

You can also tweak Adjusted availability for specific dates where you’d normally be able to meet. This works exactly like the general availability option, but instead of days of the week, you’ll choose specific dates. So, if your teeth cleaning falls during a time you’ve marked yourself as generally available, you can add that date here and adjust your schedule as needed. 

If you need time to prepare for each meeting or just want to prevent your day from becoming an endless parade of people asking you questions, you can limit your availability time by setting up a Buffer time and Maximum bookings per day. The latter will set a cap of daily meetings, and you’ll appear as unavailable when that cap is met.

5. Choose how Google Calendar determines if you’re busy. Your appointment schedule will always check your Google Calendar to see if you’re busy so that there’s no overlap with any other meetings you might’ve accepted. 

But here’s the catch: If you’re not a paying Google user and have more than one calendar (a personal and a work one, for example), you will only be able to pick one of them to define availability. Paying Google account holders and members of Workspace organizations don’t have to choose, so they can continue to compartmentalize their lives in a more practical way. 

When you’re done with these settings, click Next to continue.

6. Edit your Appointment schedule details. On the following menu, you’ll find more settings you can mess around with:

• Booking page photo and name: Your booking page is what people will see when they want to book time with you. The name and photo you use for your Google account will appear there, so if you want something that looks professional, make sure you change these settings in the My Account page.
• Location and conferencing: Tweak this to establish where you’d prefer to meet the person booking your time. You can choose to have the platform automatically generate a Google Meet link upon booking, specify a physical place (your office, for example), or transform all of your meetings into phone calls. You can also choose None / to be specified later so you and your guests can decide how you’ll meet. 
• Description: Here you can say anything you want about your meeting. Maybe you want to make it clear to your students that you won’t be responding to questions about their latest exam, or you want to let people know about the price of your services. Yes—if you’re a Google Workspace subscriber you can also set up a Stripe account to receive payment for your time. 

7. Set up a booking form. Under Booking form, you’ll be able to specify all the fields guests have to fill before booking time with you. By default, Google Calendar requires their first and last name, as well as their email address, but you can add more if you want. Click Add item—you’ll be able to ask people to provide their phone numbers or fill out a custom field, like their preference of coffee shop. Check the box next to Required to make something mandatory and finish by clicking Add item. 

On this menu, paying Google users will also see the option to require email verification. Click the box beside it to have people verify their emails when booking time with you using a non-Google email account. This extra step might be annoying for some, but it’s also extremely useful to prevent malicious bookings, especially if your booking page lives in a public place, like a social media bio. 

8. Make sure your guests know about your meeting. Now, choose whether you want to remind the people booking time with you about their appointment. Free-tier users will only be able to send guests a confirmation upon scheduling, whereas paying Google customers will be able to blast out as many email reminders as they want. 

By default, the box next to Email reminder will be selected and set to send a message a day before the scheduled appointment. Click on the dropdown menu to choose another time frame or create a custom one. If you want to send more than one note, hit Add reminder. 

Finally, hit Save to finish setting up your appointment schedule. 

Note that you might find multiple entries of your appointment schedule on a single day. This happens because the name of your appointment schedule will always appear on days when there are time slots to be booked, but there will also be specific appointments that were already scheduled. You’ll know the difference because the former will have a four-square icon next to it, while the latter will have the name of the person who booked the slot inside parentheses to the right of it. 

When you open Appointment Schedule from the Calendar view, you’ll also see a trash can icon—click it to get rid of your bookable schedule partially or entirely. On the next menu, you’ll be able to delete that day specifically (This week only), that day in all upcoming weeks (All weeks), or erase the schedule entirely (All availability). Check the bubble next to the option you want and hit Save. 

How to invite people to schedule an appointment with you on Google Calendar

To let people book time with you on Google Calendar, you’ll need to direct them to your booking page. This is a simple website where they’ll be able to navigate your availability and choose the time that works best for them. Note that they’ll only be able to see when you’re free to meet, but won’t see any details of your calendar. 

[Related: Syncing Google and Apple calendars is less annoying now]

To share this link, open your appointment schedule from Google Calendar and click Open booking page. From there, hit the Share button in the top right corner of your screen—click Copy link to copy the URL to your clipboard and share it with whoever you want on a platform of your choosing, such as email, text message, or social media. You can also go to the Website embed tab to get an embed code that will allow you to add a widget to your webpage that people can click to book time with you.  

The post Google Calendar now lets everyone line up their schedules perfectly appeared first on Popular Science.

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Facebook probably has a lot of your favorite videos—from lovely, mischievous puppies and memes, to all the memories from that wonderful trip to Europe last summer. They don’t have to stay there, though: You can easily save videos from Facebook, if you want to.

However, there are limitations. The platform doesn’t have a direct way to download videos, but there is an easy workaround to save footage that’s labeled as public or has been posted by your friends. This method doesn’t require downloaders or third-party software, and works on computers running Windows or macOS.

How to download your own Facebook videos

Downloading videos from your own Facebook page, whether they’re public, private, or only visible to your friends, is a pretty simple process.

1. Log into your Facebook account and go to your profile page.

2. Click Video in the Facebook navigation bar located just below your name and profile picture. On the next screen, you’ll see all the video content you’ve ever uploaded to the platform—find the video you want to download and click on it. 

3. Open the three-dot menu in the top right corner of your screen.

4. Click Download Video. An emerging window will appear allowing you to rename the video and save it wherever you like on your computer’s hard drive.

Another important note: Just because you can download a video doesn’t mean you can do whatever you want with it. If the video isn’t yours, it might be protected by copyright and you might need explicit permission from the owner before you share it on other platforms. Fail to do so and you could face legal repercussions. Keep all that in mind as you proceed.

1. Log into Facebook and find the video you want to download. Once you’ve located the video, click on the three dots in the upper right hand corner of the video.

2. Notice that the emerging menu doesn’t give you the option to download the video as it does with those uploaded to your profile or channels, so you’ll need to go a different route. Select Copy Link.

3. Open a new window in your browser, paste the link into the address bar, and press Return or Enter—this will display the full URL instead of the shortened one. Once you see the complete address, replace the “www” with “mbasic“, making sure to keep the rest of the URL intact. MBASIC is a pared-down version of Facebook designed to make the service easier to use on older smartphones. After making the change, press Enter.

4. On this page, you’ll see a stripped-down mobile version of the video grouped with other public Facebook posts. Click the play button located in the middle of your video to open it in another tab.

5. While the video is playing, right-click on the screen and select Save Video As.

[Related: How to keep your Facebook account secure]

6. A file explorer or finder window will open, allowing you to rename the video. By default, the video will save to the downloads folder on your hard drive, but you can choose another location within your system. Once you’ve renamed the file (if you want) and selected a download location, click Save.

7. Your system will save the video as an MP4 file, so you’ll need a media player that supports this file format to view it on your computer.

The post How to save videos from Facebook appeared first on Popular Science.

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Everything that makes email so convenient—free messages, quick delivery—also makes it susceptible to spam. With only a list of addresses (widely available online), professional spammers can merrily bombard their victims with as many messages as they like, and they have a host of automated tools to help them expand their volume and slip past filters.

It’s time to fight back against the deluge. Here are five strategies for banishing junk email and learning how to stop spam emails for good.

1. Train your spam filter

These days, most email clients include some form of spam detection. Your provider will automatically red-flag messages that seem worthless or fraudulent and move them to a special folder where you can review them later. However, these filters will work a lot better if you tell them when they chose well or made a mistake. In other words, the spam filter isn’t an end-all solution for getting rid of spam emails—you can configure its settings and actions to improve its performance. If you’re trying to figure out why you’re getting junk mail in your inbox despite having a spam filter enabled, you probably need to train it a little more.

For instance, every time you open an email in the Gmail web app, you’ll see a Report Spam button (it looks like a stop sign with an exclamation mark inside it) at the top of the page. Click this when you encounter any message that managed to sneak past Google’s spam filters. On the other hand, if you check your Spam folder and find a genuinely useful email, open it and click the Not spam button at the top of the page or the Report not spam banner in the email itself.

[Related: Why you should use whitelists to manage your email]

In Outlook, you mark a message as spam by selecting it in your inbox, selecting Report from the toolbar at the top, and clicking on Report Junk. When you’re browsing the Junk Email folder, restore a flagged message to your inbox by selecting it, clicking Report, and choosing Not Junk.

Just about every email client will include options like these. Simply dig into the settings or review the buttons that appear on the page.

2. Unsubscribe from unwanted messages

Many items that we think of as spam—such as newsletters and emails about deals—do aim to make your life better. However, these well-intentioned messages add up, cluttering up your inbox until they become stressful. Rather than deleting them en masse, look for unsubscribe links to stop receiving emails from that source.

These links usually appear at the bottom of an email—because most of the time, the sender doesn’t really want you to unsubscribe. If you do take time to hunt down these links, they often direct you to a page that asks you to confirm your decision. Once you do so, most sources will respect your wishes and remove you from their mailing lists. For Gmail users, this process is even easier, because if Gmail detects an unsubscribe link in the body text, it displays that link prominently at the top of the email. You can enjoy the same automated action in the Mail app on iOS—it will copy any unsubscribe link in the body text and display it at the top of the email, near the toolbar.

Another option is Unroll.me, a third-party service that scours your inbox for messages from mailing lists and gives you the option to unsubscribe in one click. If you’d like to keep receiving updates, but would prefer to see fewer of them, Unroll.me can condense all of those emails into a single daily message that’s easier to digest. The extension works with Gmail, Outlook, Yahoo Mail, AOL mail, iCloud, Hotmail, MSN, and Live Mail. Although it’s free and it will help you stop unwanted emails, it makes money by collecting anonymized email data on shopping trends, so be aware of that if you plan to sign up.

3. Use an alternative email address

A lot of unwanted messages make their way into your inbox when you order a product or subscribe to a mailing list—and then the company automatically signs you up to receive unwanted marketing updates or shares your contact information with an advertiser. One workaround for this problem is to create an email alias or a secondary address that you can use for some of these web activities, such as online shopping or hotel booking.

While another email address won’t stop spam from arriving, those unwanted messages will appear in a secondary email account rather than your primary one, keeping your main inbox free from clutter. If you already use Gmail, Yahoo Mail, Outlook, or Mail.com, you can set up a decoy account for free, following the same process you used to establish your original account.

[Related: 4 tips to help you achieve “Inbox Zero” in Gmail]

Depending on your email client, you may not need an entirely new account. Many clients will accept variations of your existing email address. For example, Gmail addresses ignore dots, so emails sent to “johnsmith@gmail.com” and “j.ohnsm.ith@gmail.com” will both arrive at the same inbox. Your emails will also come through if someone sends a message to your email address followed by a plus sign and extra words—so messages addressed to “johnsmith@gmail.com” and “johnsmith+extra@gmail.com” will both land in your inbox.

Why is this helpful? It means you can enter a variation on your current email address whenever you sign up for or buy something, and then create a filter to corral anything sent to that address in its own folder. To create a filter in Gmail, click the settings button (cog icon) on the top right, followed by See all settings and then Filters and Blocked Addresses. Click Create a new filter, enter your tweaked address in the To field, and then decide what you want to do with these types of emails. You could mark them as read immediately, archive them, slap a shared label on them, or some combination of these actions.

4. Download third-party extensions to stop spam emails

If a lot of junk mail slips through your email client’s spam filter, try adding a third-party app to supplement it. This type of service nabs messages as they travel between an email server (the cloud where messages are stored) and an email client (the display where you actually see your messages).

For a free option, we like the effective, easy-to-use Mailwasher. You just plug in your email login details, and this service applies a series of intelligent filters to identify unwanted messages. You can review the captured emails online before they show up in your inbox. For more features, including access to the app version of Mailwasher and support for more than one email address, you’ll need a Pro account, which costs $50 per year.

On macOS, users recommend SpamSieve ($40 with a free trial available). Like Mailwasher, it relies on an intelligent filtering system that gets smarter over time by recognizing the messages you agree are spam or mark as safe. As it adjusts to your preferences, it will only let genuine messages through.

The free SpamCop service works slightly differently. It allows you to report bad actors to internet service providers (ISPs) so they can block these messages at the source. While it requires more effort—you’ll need to report the unsolicited mass emails you receive—you can find help on the SpamCop website. You also get the pleasure of knowing that your efforts are helping others.

5. Protect your email address

We’ve already spoken about setting up a second email address to take the brunt of the spam you receive. In addition, you should aim to keep your primary address as secret as you can. That means hiding it from public pages, such as your personal website or your Twitter profile, where bots and scammers can collect it.

If your job requires that you make your contact information available, try writing out your email address longhand—something like “John Smith at Google’s email service”—whenever you need to display it on the web. This format makes sense to a human, but an automated bot won’t recognize it as an email address it can collect. You’ll often see this tactic on online contact forms.

In addition to collecting email addresses with bots, some email marketers will use what’s called a tracking pixel, or related technology, to figure out which email addresses are valid. This means they’ll send messages to a variety of addresses, and as soon as a real person opens one of these pieces of bait, the sender will receive a confirmation that the address is in use. To keep your contact information private, avoid opening messages you know are spam—just trash them directly.

Another way to fight tracking pixels is to turn off images—if images won’t load, neither will tracking pixels. Gmail users can also lean on the Ugly Email extension, which highlights emails that contain trackers.

Because marketing methods evolve constantly, neither of these options are 100 percent foolproof, but they can still reduce the number of bad actors who get their hands on your email address.

The post How to stop spam emails from destroying your inbox appeared first on Popular Science.

Articles may contain affiliate links which enable us to share in the revenue of any purchases made.

Learning a second or third language can help you better navigate the world and thrive personally and professionally. But not everyone has the money for private tutoring or language lessons. Free language learning apps can fill the gap between your budget and your desire to learn teach you the linguistic skills to communicate in as many languages as you’d like.

These apps vary in their focus, technique, strengths, and weaknesses. Some offer comprehensive, easy-to-use lessons, while others provide practical experience conversing with foreign language speakers. We’ve put together a list of the best free language learning apps with options that span different fluency levels, time constraints, and ages.

1. Best Overall: Duolingo

Duolingo, while free, is one of the best language learning programs you can get, thanks to the number of languages you can pick up, and the app’s well-designed, bite-sized lessons. Duolingo aims to entertain while teaching, using challenges and game-like features to motivate learners. For example, you can earn gems by completing lessons—but you lose a heart every time you make a mistake. 

The app currently offers almost 40 languages, including a beta version that teaches Klingon—for you Trekkies out there. The short lessons typically last about five minutes and are designed for one lesson per day, though there’s no limit to how many you can do each day. However, the free version only lets you make five mistakes before the lesson pauses, and you’ll have to come back later. You can get around that by upgrading to the Super Duolingo subscription, which costs $7.99 a month (charged yearly). 

Duolingo lets you learn as many languages at once as you like, whereas some other apps, like Busuu, limit you to one language at a time. The option to learn two languages at once lets you explore a variety of linguistic possibilities, too. To get started, you’ll need to set up an account with a password, but once you’ve done that, there are few restrictions if you don’t mind a 30-second ad every now and then. 

The app’s organization and ease of use stand out among language learning apps. There’s a clear structure and order to the lessons. To keep you on track, you can’t move on to a new module until you’ve completed a certain number of lessons in the previous module. You’ll also have the option to review previous lessons, mistakes, and vocabulary as needed to refresh your memory and practice. Plus, you can listen to podcasts in your language of choice. 

On the downside, the amount of content isn’t the same for every language. Some, like Spanish and French, have content galore, while others, like Esperanto and Navajo, aren’t quite as fully developed. 

If you want more training, the Super subscription lets you use the app without restrictions and offers a few other perks like unlimited mastery quizzes and Test Outs, whereas free members only get so many. (Test Outs let you skip lessons if you’ve already mastered the skills.) You can also access extra speaking and listening practice with the Super membership, though repeating previous lessons can offer extra practice without the extra cost. 

Duolingo is available on iOS, iPadOS, iMessage, and Android.

2. Best for multiple languages: Memrise

Memrise’s free tier might be all you need if you’re brushing up on your language skills or want to learn the basics of several languages at once. This app is more of a study aid than it is a comprehensive language learning app. But it tops other apps for multiple languages because it customizes suggested lessons based on your past performance and features an AI chatbot that can help you learn.

This app relies on a number of memory techniques, but it heavily uses videos in its courses. For example, when learning vocabulary, you’ll see short videos of native speakers saying a single word. Learners follow a “watch, learn, speak” method to learn vocabulary and pronunciation. Memrise offers 23 languages, and you can work on as many of those at a time as you want. Plus, your account syncs across devices, so you can access lessons from multiple places, including a desktop computer.

[Related: How to get your computer and phone to work together]

Memrise lets you customize your learning settings so you can adjust the number of words you work on in each learning or reviewing session. However, if you make these changes in the app and later use the desktop version, you’ll have to adjust the learning settings again, as that is the only part of the app that doesn’t sync. 

Memrise offers a free and paid subscription, with the latter coming in at $14.99 per month, $89.99 a year, or $199.99 for a lifetime membership. The paid tier is ad-free and includes access to all lessons in every language, which you won’t get with the free tier. 

Memrise is available on iOS, iPadOS, and Android.

3. Best for general vocabulary: Busuu

Busuu may not have the wide language selection of apps like Duolingo and Memrise, but the app makes up for it in the quality of its vocabulary content and course structure. At the start of each lesson, you can clearly see what your goals are and what you’ll do next. They’re also broken down into manageable, logical chunks.

The free version of Busuu only allows you to work on one language at a time, and depending on the language you’re learning, certain features may not be available. If you want more and are serious about learning languages, we recommend the Premium Busuu plan ($6.95 to $13.95 per month). The fact that you can learn vocabulary in multiple languages alone makes the price worth it. However, if you’re looking to brush up or are happy learning a single language, the free version will work well.

A fun and unique feature that Busuu offers is the option to submit audio or written answers to the Busuu community for feedback and/or correction on your language skills. Community members who speak the language you’re learning will be able to offer suggestions or provide cultural context. This app’s instruction is excellent whether you opt for the free or paid version. Just know that if you’re looking to learn one of the less popular languages, Busuu may not have it because it focuses on 14 languages, including Spanish, Japanese, and Arabic.

Busuu is available on iOS, iPadOS, and Android.

4. Best for kids: StudyCat

StudyCat offers free language learning for kids ages 3 to 8 years old. While kids won’t learn everything they need to know from this app (like grammar), it’s a fun way to support their language development. Harvard and MIT researchers have found that learning a new language before the age of 10 provides the greatest opportunity for proficiency.

The app uses fun characters and games that appeal to young kids. Many of the games are similar to matching or quest games they may have already played on a phone or tablet. More than games, the app encourages a critical thinking approach to language learning. Each activity builds on the previous one to increase vocabulary while encouraging curiosity. Learning comes through categories, such as numbers, actions, food, and body. Through these categories, kids are exposed to speaking comprehension drills and reading skills. You can jump to different categories, but you have to start at the first lesson before advancing to the next, which allows your child to gradually build upon each lesson. 

[Related: How to set parental controls on any phone or tablet]

StudyCat comes in five languages, and each language has its own app. That’s a little limited if you want to expose your kids to languages other than Spanish, French, English, Chinese, and German. However, it also keeps the app simple, which works well for young learners. 

On the downside, the free version of the app doesn’t offer full access to all categories, words, and phrases. You’ll get access to two categories, and some won’t have all of the games. For that, you’ll have to pay for a monthly $14.99 subscription. I had to dig past the signup screen to get to the free version, but it’s there. The app is simple and fun for young kids, providing plenty of good practice without feeling like a drill.

StudyCat is available on iOS, iPadOS, and Android.

5. Best for conversation: HelloTalk

If you’re ready to practice your language skills with a native speaker, HelloTalk is the app for you. It’s a language app with translation tools, so you can learn while you converse. You might think you need to be an intermediate or even an advanced speaker to carry on conversations, but that’s not true with HelloTalk. 

To get started, you fill out a survey with the language you’d like to converse in and your fluency level. Then, the app creates a list of fluent speakers with whom you can chat. You can type what you’d like to say in English, and the app will translate it into the language you’re learning. There’s also a quick tap option to translate specific words. Plus, you can hear the answers read aloud or see a transliteration. HelloTalk also offers a grammar correction option to help you communicate more proficiently. 

Group chat features let you talk with several people all over the world, and you can save conversations to go back and review words or phrases. You can chat in 18 languages, practicing your conversation and writing skills at the same time. This is a great app if you’re feeling more confident in your vocabulary and sentence structure. Language development increases when you use it in practical ways with native speakers. 

The best part is the free version offers access to the same features as the paid version, but it includes ads. You can invest in the ad-free version for $6.99 per month or $45.99 per year. If you really love conversation as a learning tool, you can purchase a lifetime membership for $175. 

HelloTalk is available on iOS, iPadOS, and Android.

The post The best free language learning apps for building your vocabulary and conversational skills appeared first on Popular Science.

Articles may contain affiliate links which enable us to share in the revenue of any purchases made.

The Meta Quest 3 could lay claim to being the best VR headset around right now, but it actually combines both virtual reality (completely enclosed digital worlds) with mixed reality (where digital elements are mixed with the real world).

With so many types of experiences available on the latest headset from Meta, there are a lot of features and settings to dig into if you want to make sure you’re getting the most out of your wearable gadget. Let’s get you started.

You can cast to a phone or a computer, as long as all the devices are on the same WiFi network. On a phone, you’ll need to be logged into the Meta Quest app for Android or iOS: Tap Menu, then Casting to start the show. On a computer, head to oculus.com/casting in a web browser, log into your Meta account, and follow the instructions.

Casts can be initiated from inside the headset as well. Press the Meta button (the Meta logo, a warped infinity symbol) on the Touch Plus controller, then choose Camera and Cast. You can then pick from Computer or Meta Quest mobile phone app.

2. Enter passthrough mode

Beyond the apps and games that make use of the Meta Quest 3’s mixed reality capabilities, you can also let the real world in when you’re browsing through menus and apps in the Horizon Home environment.

Tap the Meta button on the Touch Plus controller, then select the button to the right of the notification bell icon to switch between immersive (VR) mode and passthrough (MR) mode—the button you want looks like a pair of goggles and will be outlined or filled in depending on which view you’re using.

3. Customize your avatar

Your avatar represents you in a variety of places on the Meta Quest 3, so make sure it looks like you and not some generic gray blob of a person (the default). When you’re in your Horizon Home environment, select the mirror to get started.

[Related: Make a Memoji that actually looks like you]

You’ll need to choose an avatar template to get started, but don’t worry if it doesn’t look too much like you—you can customize your facial hair, your outfit, your body shape, and a number of other attributes to get the right VR representation of yourself.

4. Record photos and videos

Capturing screenshots and videos on the Meta Quest 3 is a good way to share what you’re up to. If you press the Meta button on the Touch Plus controller, then choose Camera, you can find Take photo and Record video options, but they’re really just for the Horizon Home environment.

When you’re inside games and apps, you can take a screenshot by holding down the Meta button, tapping the right trigger button, and then releasing both buttons. To take a video, hold down the Meta button, hold down the right trigger button until you see the video recording message, then release both buttons—repeat the action to stop the video.

5. Boost the refresh rate

The Meta Quest 3 comes with a significant boost in graphical capabilities over the Oculus Quest 2, including the ability to hit a 120Hz refresh rate if games and apps demand it. This means motion will look smoother and more fluid, though it also means the headset might get warmer, and the mode is more of a drain on battery life.

If you want to make sure games and apps are looking as good as they can be, tap the Meta button on the Touch Plus controller, then choose Settings, System, Display, and enable the 120Hz refresh rate option. If you’d rather have the extra battery life, turn it off.

6. Reset the view

You might sometimes find yourself a little lost in the VR (or MR) world, with the menu or dialog box you want to look at above or below or behind you. To reset the view so everything is in front of you again, press and hold the Meta button on the Touch Plus controller.

After a few moments, you’ll see a circle on screen—keep holding to complete the circle and reset the view. This works in games and apps as well as the Horizon Home environment, so you can use it whenever you’re disoriented.

7. Use hand tracking

The cameras on the front of the Meta Quest 3 can track the actions of your hands and fingers, so you can ditch the Touch Plus Controllers if you want to. The tracking isn’t perfect, but it’s a more natural way of getting around in VR or MR.

Press the Meta button on the Touch Plus controller, then select Settings, Movement tracking, and Hand tracking. Here you can enable the feature (via the top toggle switch) and customize how it works.

Use the options on this screen to choose how you want to switch between using controllers and using hand tracking: You can simply just put the controllers down, for example, or double-tap the controllers together to switch.

The post 7 hands-on (and off) tips for the new Meta Quest 3 mixed reality VR headset appeared first on Popular Science.

Articles may contain affiliate links which enable us to share in the revenue of any purchases made.

With WiFi calling, you can make or receive calls with your smartphone over a WiFi connection in areas where you have poor cellular signal. It’s supported by most modern smartphones and most carriers, including Verizon, AT&T, and T-Mobile. Of course, you won’t be able to do any of this unless you know how to turn on WiFi calling in the first place.

Once you understand the basics and have enabled WiFi calling on your iPhone or Android phone, you can dig deeper into other important questions like how this technology actually works and if it’s free for international calls.

How does WiFi calling work?

WiFi calling is like a cross between regular cell phone calls and VOIP services like Skype that allow you to make phone calls from your computer. Instead of using a third-party service, your phone call is routed through the internet to your cell provider and then connected over the cellular network to the person you’re calling (or is calling you). This means that it still uses your phone number and your cell provider’s network, rather than a username, email address, or anything else. 

The big difference between WiFi calling and regular calling is that it uses your WiFi network, not your mobile data. This means it works well in areas where you have bad cell signal but good WiFi signal, like if you have a satellite internet connection at your rural cabin or just live in a building with an unreliable cell service. WiFi calling won’t help you if you’re out on a hike or otherwise totally off-the-grid, though. And if you have a good mobile data connection at home, you won’t notice much difference.

All modern iPhones support WiFi calling, although some networks only support the iPhone 6 (released in 2014) and newer. Basically, unless you are using a 10-year-old iPhone that you’ve somehow kept running, your iPhone supports WiFi calling. 

How to turn on WiFi calling on an Android phone

To enable WiFi calling on an Android, go to the Phone App > More > Settings > Calls, and enable WiFi Calling. If you don’t see it, your carrier likely doesn’t support WiFi Calling.

All modern Android smartphones support WiFi calling as long as they are running Android 6.0 Marshmallow (released in 2015) or newer. While the Android update situation isn’t as clear-cut as it is with iPhones, as long you bought your phone in the last five years or so, it almost certainly supports WiFi calling. If you’re unsure, check what version of Android your phone is running.

Does WiFi calling work on an iPad or Apple Watch?

Yes, if your carrier supports “WiFi calling on supported iCloud-connected devices” (check Apple’s official carrier support list to be sure), you can make and receive WiFi phone calls on your iPad and Apple Watch.

To enable WiFi calling on your iPad or Apple Watch, open your iPhone’s Settings app, then go to Phone, WiFi Calling, and turn on Add WiFi Calling For Other Devices. Calls that come through your iPad will be routed through your iPhone. When you’re using an Apple Watch, though, you’ll be able to receive calls even if your phone isn’t turned on or nearby, as long as your iPhone has previously connected to the WiFi network you’re using.

The post What is WiFi calling, and when should you use it? appeared first on Popular Science.

Articles may contain affiliate links which enable us to share in the revenue of any purchases made.

Spotify has a wealth of options for music lovers: Mixes, new releases, genre picks, recommended tracks, albums you’re already obsessed with, and plenty more.

However, you can also take more control over your listening by making your own Spotify playlists. You can keep these compilations to yourself or share them with others—and you can even work on collaborative playlists with other people.

Putting together a curated list of songs takes longer than just diving into whatever Spotify’s algorithm offers you, but it means you’ll only listen to exactly what you want. It’s a more personalized and deliberate way of enjoying your tunes.

There are several ways to make a playlist on Spotify, and we’ll go over a couple of them plus other features to improve your listening experience.  We’ve focused on instructions for the Android and iOS mobile apps, but the process is similar if you’re using the desktop or web apps.

How to make a playlist on Spotify

You can create a playlist in the Spotify mobile app by tapping on Your Library, in the bottom right corner of your screen, followed by the + (plus) button in the top right, and then Playlist. Give your compilation a name and tap Create—the app will take you straight to your new, empty playlist.

New playlists are public by default, which means everybody will be able to find them, play them, and even access them with a shared link. But even though they’re public, your playlists don’t appear on your profile by default. To change this, open the playlist and tap the three dots: on the emerging menu, tap Add to profile to flaunt your compilation skills or Make private to hide your collection of tunes, remove it from search results, and disable its public link.

[Related: How to listen to Spotify’s huge library of audiobooks]

Straight away on your empty playlist page, you’ll find recommended songs based on your listening history. You can add any of these tunes to the playlist by tapping the musical note icon on the right. You can also tap Add to this playlist to start searching for specific tracks on Spotify.

You can add more tracks by browsing the Spotify catalog. Tap the three dots next to any song, album, or playlist to find the Add to playlist option. From there, you can pick a playlist you’ve previously created or start a brand new one for the songs that you’ve just selected.

You can make, edit, and share playlists whether you pay for Spotify or not, but only Premium subscribers can listen to them in the specific order given by the playlist creator—free users are stuck with shuffle play. To change the order of a compilation’s tracks, as well as its name, tap the three dots on the playlist page and Edit playlist.

Finally, there’s another playlist option worth mentioning. Spotify uses your listening history and machine learning to figure out your music taste and recommend artists, albums and playlists that you’ll like. But the service also acknowledges that there are a lot of reasons to make a playlist, and maybe you don’t want a particular compilation to affect your Spotify suggestions—maybe you created a playlist of kiddy songs to keep your nephews entertained when you babysit them, or a collection of epic tunes for your Dungeons & Dragons games that you don’t want to inform your daily mixes. If this is the case, create your playlist and before you add any songs, open the three-dot menu and choose Exclude from my taste profile.

How to share a Spotify playlist

You can share any public Spotify playlist via a link—just tap the three dots on the playlist page and go to Share and Copy link. You’ll get a unique URL you can paste anywhere you want,  like an email or chat conversation. Instead of choosing Copy link, you can share the link directly  through one of the suggested apps on your phone. To do that, just pick the app you want and follow the steps.

You could even paste this link on your website or in your social media bio to give visitors an idea of your taste in music. The playlist will open on the web, in the desktop app, or the mobile app, depending on the device the person is using when opening the link, and how it’s configured.

[Related: Spotify wants to understand your body on music]

You’ll find the same options for private playlists, but the generated link has a limited lifespan of seven days—if the person you shared your playlist with opens the link within that time frame, they’ll be able to access the compilation indefinitely. But that doesn’t mean they can share it with more people—only you, as the creator of a private playlist, have the power to share it.

On mobile, shared private playlists differ from shared public playlists in that you can see who has access to the compilation. Just below the playlist name, you’ll see the little profile pictures of the people you’ve invited and you can click or tap it to get a full and detailed list. If you want to revoke access from someone there, do it by tapping the three dots next to their name and choosing Remove from playlist.

Another option for sharing playlists is to use a Spotify code, which works a bit like a QR code. Tap the three dots on the playlist, then Show Spotify Code. You’ll see a series of lines that you can share by posting anywhere online or even printing it. People can then scan it using the Spotify app by tapping Search and then the camera icon in the top right corner.

How to make a collaborative playlist on Spotify

Creating collaborative playlists on Spotify can be extremely useful for everything from weddings to road trips. This feature allows you to invite your friends to the creation process and give them permission to add and remove songs on the playlist, as well as changing the order of the tunes.

On each public and private playlist page there’s an invite button—a portrait silhouette with a plus symbol. Tap it to generate a link to pass on to the people you want to give editorial access to your playlist. Just like the sharing link on private playlists, collaborators have to click or tap the URL within seven days. After that, there are no time restrictions on how long they can stick around for.

Pictures of collaborators will show up in small bubbles at the top of the playlist, the same way that people who’ve been invited to shared private playlists do. Tap these bubbles for more details and select the three dots next to any name to choose whether people can collaborate on the playlist or are simply allowed to look at it. From the same menu, you can also remove access completely, if you want.

And if at some point you’re done with your compilation, know that it’s easy to delete your Spotify playlist. Open the collection you want to get rid of, click or tap on the three-dot menu and select Delete. It’s that simple.

Two Spotify features to make your playlists even better 

If you thought those were the only ways to customize and create playlists on Spotify, think again. The streaming service has two more options you can play around with to create the perfect musical compilation. 

Blend

If you tap Your Library, then the + (plus) icon, you’ll see a Blend option next to Playlist. Blend lets you invite up to 10 people to a shared playlist, and then Spotify will automatically build a compilation that mixes the musical tastes and listening history of all the users you’ve invited. It also refreshes with a new mix every day.

Jam 

This feature facilitates collaborations at parties. It lets you invite friends to add tracks to a playlist in real time while still keeping veto power and control over the track order. Spotify will also help by offering up recommendations based on who’s accepted your invitation.

To start a jam you’ll need to be a Premium subscriber, but free users can help out as collaborators. On your phone, tap the devices icon on the Now Playing bar (it looks like a small speaker), then Start a Jam. You can find the same option by tapping on the three dots on a public playlist page. From there, you can invite people to the jam by sharing a link, or by opening the Spotify app and either tapping your phones together or scanning a QR code. 

The post How to make hit Spotify playlists, alone or with your friends appeared first on Popular Science.

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When you’re working on your PC, sometimes it’s handy to pin a window so that it’s always on top of the programs you’re using. Maybe you want to keep the calculator app or a text document visible at all times, or maybe your favorite team is playing and you want to make sure you don’t miss out on all the action.

Windows doesn’t offer this ability by default but you can add it through the Powertoys app. This tool brings with it a bunch of great features to Microsoft’s OS, including Always On Top, which can pin any window so that it stays right in front of everything else in your workspace. Here’s how to set it up.

How to set up Always On Top

1. Download the Powertoys app from the Microsoft Store. Once the program is installed, it should open automatically.

2. On the left sidebar, click Always on Top to configure it.  By default, you’ll be able to trigger the feature by using the keyboard shortcut Windows + Ctrl + T, but you can change it to something else—more on that later. 

[Related: 7 hidden Windows features you should be using]

3. That’s it—Always on top is ready to use. Now, open whatever app or window you want to keep in front and hit the keyboard shortcut to pin it in place. Use the same shortcut unpin it.  

How to customize Always On Top

By default, there will be a thick blue border around the window you pin, but you can change or remove it. 

1. Open Powertoys and head to the Always On Top section in the sidebar. 

• Pro tip: If you can’t find the app, click the Windows logo on the Start bar and use the search field at the top of the emerging window. 

2. Click Open Settings. Scroll down and under Appearance & Behavior, you’ll be able to remove the border entirely, if you like—just toggle the switch next to Show border around the pinned window. 

If you don’t want to get rid of the border, you can change its color. By default, the feature will use the current system color (Windows default), which is defined by your wallpaper, but you can switch it to any hue you want. Just open the drop down menu next to Color mode, and click Custom color. A new entry named Color will appear on the menu, and you can play around with the color picker on the right to choose whatever tone you like. 

You can also make the border transparent by dragging the slider next to Opacity to the left or right. Unfortunately, there’s no preview to guide you on how the different opacity levels will look, but you’ll see the changes in real time if you’ve got a window pinned to the top of your workspace already. Drag the slider all the way to the left, and the pinned window frame will become totally see-through. 

[Related: 10 new features to get you started with Windows 11]

Another element you can customize is the border thickness. Just play around with the slider next to Thickness. Again, you’ll need to have a window already pinned in place to see how the changes look in real time. 

Finally, by default there is a sound every time you pin and unpin a window—you can turn this on and off in the Sound section of the settings. 

Other options include the ability to exclude certain apps from being pinned and changing the keyboard shortcut to activate Always on Top. Click the pencil icon under Activation and type whatever shortcut you like. Just make sure the key combo you use is not taken by another action, or things can get pretty confusing and annoying pretty fast. 

The post This Windows feature lets you pin important apps to your screen appeared first on Popular Science.

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Meta, possibly in an effort to convince people it’s a transparent company, just equipped Instagram with a new feature that lets users know what it learns about them through other websites. Unfortunately, getting that information is not as easy as Meta wants you to believe.

Other than what you post and how you interact with the platform, Instagram’s parent company also gathers data about you through other sites and organizations that use the company’s products and services. That means that if you buy something from a vendor that uses Meta Pixel on their website, for example, Instagram will know about it. 

With this new feature, you can see who’s sharing your information, delete the data already in Instagram’s hands, and prevent any future sharing. That may sound like a lot of work, but we tried it and made mistakes so you don’t have to. 

How to find out what other sites share with Instagram about you

You can learn all the hot gossip other sites tell Meta about you on the Activity off-Meta technologies menu. This option was once only available to Facebook users, but it’s now an integral part of the company’s Account Center, which includes Instagram. 

[Related: How to make your social media posts truly private]

1. On the Instagram app, open your profile by tapping the silhouette of a person in the bottom right corner of your screen. Go to the hamburger menu (three lines) in the top right corner, choose Settings and privacy, and then Accounts Center. 

On the web, log into Instagram, click More in the bottom left corner of your screen, and go to Settings. There, click Accounts Center. 

2. From here on out, the options are the same no matter if you are on your phone or your computer. Go to Your information and permissions and then to Your activity off Meta technologies. 

On the next screen, you’ll be able to learn a bit more about the type of data Instagram receives from third parties when you interact with them. This data can be a number of things, such as when you opened an app, logged into it using Facebook or Instagram, added an item to your cart, bought something, or even made a donation. Meta says this information doesn’t include health or financial data, or other sensitive details like date of birth or passwords.  

3. Under the What you can do heading, go to Recent activity to see all the sites sharing your information with Instagram. You may need to enter your Instagram password to continue. You’ll see a list of companies, and you can click each one to learn more details. 

Here’s the tricky part, though: when you click the number of interactions the company has shared with Meta, you won’t see a detailed account of the interactions the site shared with Instagram. Instead, you’ll see more information and a button you can hit to Download activity details.

You’d think that by that they mean downloading only the details of your interactions with other apps and websites, but you’d be wrong. You’ll actually need to request to download a file that contains your entire Instagram account information, and you still won’t find what exactly other sites shared about you. 

4. This leaves you with nothing to do except cut the data flow off at the source. Back in the Recent activity menu, you can click or tap Clear previous activity or Disconnect specific activity. The first one will remove everything Instagram has on you from third parties, but it won’t prevent the same sites from continuing to share information in the future.

To do a thorough job, start by choosing Disconnect specific activity and picking a site you want to cut off. It’s counterintuitive to start here, as it’s the second option, but clearing the activity will prevent you from disconnecting third parties, as their names and the option to disconnect will disappear. That means you’ll need to wait until they appear on the menu again to block them once and for all. 

5. The next screen will show you a list of the websites sharing data with Instagram. Select the ones you want to sever ties with by checking the circle next to their name, then hit Continue. 

6. The next screen will show you more information about severing ties between that third party activity and your account, including the fact that doing so might log you out of that external website if you used your Instagram account to log in. It also clarifies that you’ll still see ads from the site, albeit less personalized, and Meta will continue to receive information, but it just won’t be associated with you. Hit Confirm when you’re done and repeat the process with all the sites you don’t want sharing your data. 

[Related: How to go incognito on these 6 popular apps]

Back on the Recent activity menu, you can also tap on the name of a company and select Disconnect. This, of course, requires you to disconnect sites one by one, which is not as efficient as doing it by hitting the Disconnect specific activity button.   

Keep in mind that disconnecting these sites doesn’t mean they won’t keep sharing information with Instagram—it just means the data will be anonymized, so not tied to you specifically. This is something a lot of companies do to protect users’ privacy, but it’s also worth knowing there are studies claiming data can never be truly anonymized, especially when certain data points, like location, are involved

7. Now it’s time to delete what Instagram already has on you by clicking or tapping Clear previous activity. Continue by choosing your account and hitting Clear. Confirm your choice again by selecting Clear previous activity. 

As you can see, Instagram’s new way of managing third-party activity is, well, disappointing. Navigating the new menu is incredibly frustrating, as it’s mined with dark patterns, and even after doing a deep dive, we still don’t know what third-party websites shared about us, and we couldn’t prevent them from sharing more information in the future. Certainly not the best experience.

The post How to see which websites are sharing your data with Instagram appeared first on Popular Science.

Articles may contain affiliate links which enable us to share in the revenue of any purchases made.

As television shows become available online, there’s less of a need to watch your favorites on a set schedule. But if you choose to cut the cord entirely, you’ll miss out on live channels, such as news and sports. Luckily, you can still watch live TV on your computer. You have two options: Plug a TV tuner device—which catches broadcasts like an antenna does—into a USB port, or stream shows through your web browser.

Plug in a TV tuner

Network channels, including NBC, CBS, ABC, Fox, PBS, and local stations, air for free. All you need to watch them is an antenna to snag the broadcasts and a device to share them with your computer. The latter, called a TV tuner, can come in the form of a dongle or a larger box that plugs into any spare USB port.

Tuners come with bundled software that helps you navigate. When you’re getting started, these built-in applications will install the necessary drivers, scan for available channels, and display them on your computer screen. Then you can click through your options.

Once you’ve finished installation, the bundled software will help you receive channels, browse program guides, and make recordings. However, you can also download alternative applications, such as Kodi and Plex, to do the same tasks. Kodi is free but has a slightly more complicated setup, while Plex has a simpler process but requires a Plex Pass subscription that costs $5 per month, $40 a year, or $120 for lifetime access. Plex also has a handy “discover” feature that lets you track down anything you want to watch.

Buying a tuner

When you go shopping for tuner hardware, first look for compatibility with your computer’s operating system. Also consider whether the device includes extras like a bundled remote control. If you choose a model that comes with two or more integrated tuners, you’ll be able to record one channel while watching another, record two shows at once, or create a picture-in-picture effect with two channels.

We’d recommend the Hauppauge WinTV-DualHD ($80 on Amazon), though it only works with Windows machines. It includes two tuners, which lets you view or record two shows at once. Once you plug it into a spare USB port, the supplied software will take over, which makes the setup process extremely easy.

Buying an antenna

If you’ve already wired your home with a TV antenna, you can connect it to your new tuner and be good to go. If not, you’ll need to purchase an antenna to catch the TV signals flying through the air. Unfortunately there’s no easy way to figure out how many channels an antenna will catch—many factors make a difference, including the presence of surrounding buildings and nearby hills, and the distance between your home and the closest tower. You’ll just have to buy the hardware and try it out, so make sure the seller has a good returns policy, in case the reception is poor. If you live in a place where structures are few and far between, you may also want to check out our review team’s roundup of the best TV antennas for rural areas.

One of our favorite options is the Mohu Leaf Supreme Pro ($70 on Amazon), which boasts a sleek-looking design and a 65-mile range. Because it’s multi-directional, you don’t need to point it in a specific direction, so you can lay it flat or mount it to a wall. It’s meant to be used indoors, but it works great wherever you put it.

[Related: The best TV antennas]

Another choice we’d recommend is the 1byone Digital Amplified Indoor HDTV Antenna ($18 on Amazon), which is cheaper than the Mohu but has a smaller range—it only connects to transmission towers within 50 miles.

Once you’ve purchased your new gear, connect the antenna to the tuner, then the tuner to your laptop. Finally, download the free installer software (if necessary) and launch the application. It will walk you through the process of bringing up live TV channels on your laptop.

Stream channels online

Don’t want to buy new hardware? You can still watch live TV through your web browser. While services like Netflix focus on on-demand programs, other services include a live component so you can watch broadcasts—such as sports—as they happen.

If you’re only interested in watching a few channels in particular, head to the websites for those companies. Many of them—including ABC, Fox, and NBC—let you stream directly from their sites. However, there’s a catch: Different channels have different rules, and some require that you already have a TV provider or similar subscription (you have to sign in to confirm those credentials before watching). For example, you can watch CBS shows live only if you have a Paramount Plus subscription, which costs $6 per month and still includes ads.

Monthly online TV services

To get more than one channel at once, including premium options, you’ll need to subscribe to a monthly service like Hulu Live TV, YouTube TV, or Sling TV. All of these options provide a strong connection and easy setup, but they differ in the channels they offer. For example, YouTube TV doesn’t have a great spread of sports channels, while Sling TV has two plans that contain different stations but doesn’t focus on local ones. Before you invest in any subscription, test out that service’s free trial (they all offer one) to get a feel for the experience and make sure it includes the TV channels you want to watch. Here’s some more information that should help you choose.

Hulu offers four plans that include live TV, and the cheapest is $75.99 a month, but it does not allow you to access Hulu’s regular on-demand library—it’s live stuff only. You can spend $1 more ($76.99 per month) to add access to Hulu’s streaming library, Disney Plus, and ESPN Plus, all with ads. You can also pay more for additional features, such as premium channels like Showtime and Max (formerly HBO).

[Related: Watch anything you want without signing up for every streaming service]

With a slightly lower price of of $72.99 a month, YouTube TV offers access to more than 100 live channels, but you will need to enter your ZIP code to see what’s available in your area. For an additional $2 to $30 a month, you can bolt on extra ones, including NFL RedZone and Showtime. It also gives you an unlimited amount of free cloud DVR storage, so you can record as much content as you want and store it on YouTube’s servers.

Sling TV focuses on premium cable channels rather than local networks like ABC, CBS, and Fox, although you may be able to get some local channels, depending on your area. Prices start at $40 a month for a pack of 32 channels, and you can increase your subscription fee to add more. You can watch on a variety of devices besides your computer, including a smartphone or an Apple TV. Sling also offers a cloud DVR service, but you’ll have to pay an additional $5 a month to save recordings in the cloud.

Cable subscriptions

If you already pay for a cable subscription, this may be the easiest way to tune into live television on your computer. All you need are your username and password.

Take Comcast’s Xfinity Stream service. It gives subscribers access to more than 250 channels. Just navigate to the Xfinity Stream site, log in with your credentials, and start watching. DirecTV offers similar services, and you can access it through a web browser.

This story has been updated. It was originally published in 2019.

The post How to watch TV on a computer, even if it’s live appeared first on Popular Science.

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The latest iPads, like the iPad Pro M2, offer incredible speed and visual clarity that make them a favorite for work, school, and everything in between. However, to take full advantage of everything an iPad offers, you’ll need the right iPad apps. Your work and lifestyle will influence the apps that offer the most convenience and functionality for you. We’ve put together a list of the best iPad apps in a range of categories, from those that keep you organized to apps for editing, drawing, and taking notes.

1. Best for note-taking: Microsoft OneNote

OneNote, made by Microsoft, offers excellent note-taking features that stand out for ease of use and top-notch organizational features. The app is available in free and paid versions that come with Microsoft Office 2019 or a Microsoft 365 subscription. (Office 2019 costs $149.99 and Microsoft 365 costs $9.99 for a monthly subscription or $99.99 annually with a yearly subscription) The free version can do everything the paid version can except for storing files locally on Windows and a few stickers, which are pictures that offer another way to express yourself visually.  

The app’s organizational structure includes Notebooks, which break down into Sections, Pages, and Sub-Pages. The Notebooks display as colored tabs on the left of the screen, giving you easy access. The app takes a freeform approach to writing by allowing you to write anywhere on the page, like you would on a piece of physical paper. It automatically opens in text mode to type using an iPad keyboard or the on-screen one, but you can easily change to “draw” and use an Apple pencil to sketch pictures or leave handwritten notes. You can then tag lines of text so you can search for them later. 

A huge pro for OneNote for the iPad is the ability to draw along with taking text notes. You can add sketches, handwritten notes, or graphs to and over the top of text. The ability to draw around and through text within the same document is unique and separates OneNote from heavy competition by popular note-taking apps like Evernote and Joplin. You can also add attachments anywhere in the text so they show up where you need them to. 

2. Best for drawing: Pixelmator Pro

Among the many drawing apps for iPad, Pixelmator Pro rises to the top for its balance of simplicity, versatility, and price. The app offers over 100 brushes, pencils, and other tools that will let you build variety into your sketches. You can paint with watercolor or use sponge brushes to build texture in sketches in ways you can’t when drawing on paper without a bucket full of supplies. 

Pixelmator also has a photo editing system, which includes features that you can add to original drawings. For example, you can use layers, apply effects, and fine-tune colors to build depth and character to your work. You can also add shapes from Pixelmator’s library or add text with varying effects. Beyond drawing, the latest version also lets you work with RAW images, edit PDFs, and create iPhone 15 mockups.

[Related: How to unlock the hidden, more powerful camera on the iPhone 15]

We also like that you can easily export your drawings in different formats and send them directly to cloud storage like Dropbox or Google Drive. Overall, the app puts incredible creative power into your hands and gives you multiple ways to share your creations on other devices. However, the learning curve can be steep for those with little graphic experience. Pixelmator Pro doesn’t have a huge library or tutorials, so some learning will have to come from trial and error. 

Pixelmator Pro is available on iOS and iPadOS.

3. Best for planning: Todoist

Todoist falls somewhere between the ultimate to-do list and project management. This cloud-based service syncs with any device on which you have the app, so you can access your lists from your iPad or a desktop as long as both have the app. An incredibly well-designed interface makes it easy to use despite the fact that it’s packed with features. 

You can schedule due dates, create tasks, and build lists. You can organize projects by tasks and subtasks. There are options to manually reorder tasks or set sorting options for the project. And Todoist lets you add labels so you can search among your projects later on. 

Plus, you can share it with multiple users, which is where the project management aspect comes in. The free version lets users organize five personal projects, provides space for 5MB file uploads, and keeps one week of activity history. The pro version, which costs $4 per month billed yearly, offers 300 personal projects, 100MB file uploads, and unlimited history with task reminders and task duration options. Businesses may want the business subscription, which costs $6 per month billed yearly, to get 500 team projects, unlimited collaborators, and the option to limit access and control with admin and member roles.

[Related: How to use split screen on iPad and conquer multitasking]

With the paid version, you can assign people tasks or add due dates, making it a robust way to manage a family schedule or small business team. Todoist is powerful, and the free version works well for personal organization. However, if you want to manage a family or small business using Todoist, it’s worth upgrading to either of the paid versions.

Todoist is available on iOS, iPadOS, watchOS, and Android.

4. Best for photo editing: Adobe Lightroom

Adobe Lightroom is a top choice when it comes to photo editing power. You upload your photos to Adobe’s Cloud, and once there, they’re available to edit on an iPad. The iPad version of Lightroom isn’t quite as robust as the desktop version, but it still offers excellent photo editing tools. You can download it for free with in-app purchases to unlock the features you need. The monthly prices for premium upgrades range from $4.99 to $49.99 per month. 

The app now has more advanced photo editing features like local adjustments, lens-profile-based corrections, and noise reduction, too. We like the local adjustments feature, which is fairly new to the iPad version. With this feature, you can select an oval or linear area in which to apply your edits rather than to the entire image. You’ve got 17 adjustment features to apply within the area, like graduated or radial filters and softness and strength adjustments. Of course, there are more traditional editing tools like photo adjusters and adjustments for clarity and shadows. You’ve also got the option to shoot photos directly in the app, which is more tempting now that iPads come with higher-quality cameras.

The downside with the app is that there currently aren’t great options to batch-edit a large number of photos, say for a wedding, which is odd considering that the features are geared more toward pros than beginners. But for individual photos, you can do everything you need from your iPad and send them to the desktop app when you’re done.

Adobe Lightroom is available for iOS, iPadOS, and Android.

5. Best for calendar: Google Calendar

Google Calendar’s versatility and collaboration options make it one of the best iPad apps for those who have a Google account. If you don’t have one, you’ll need to get one, and it’s worth considering for the range of features this calendar offers. 

You can create several calendars and view them separately or together. Organize a family calendar with your spouse and children or keep one for extended family to coordinate events. Google Calendar can be particularly helpful when working with teams because everyone can share their work calendars and schedule meetings using the app. There are options to create tasks, reminders, and recurring events. Within each, you can set times, invite participants, change colors, and add locations. Plus, you can share specific events if you don’t want to share your entire calendar. 

[Related: 5 Google Calendar tips to ensure you never miss a date]

All of that is with the free version, which, really, is all most people need unless you’re working with a large team. The premium version offers analytics and insights as well as the ability to schedule appointments or allow others to schedule appointments with you. Plus, you can sync all of your calendars to keep your life organized in one space.

Google Calendar is available on iOS, iPadOS, and Android.

The post The best iPad apps for making the most of your device appeared first on Popular Science.

Articles may contain affiliate links which enable us to share in the revenue of any purchases made.

No one likes slow WiFi—it’s right up there with creaking doors and leaking taps as one of the most frustrating household problems. To increase your WiFi speed back to where it should be, try making these tweaks to your router and other devices.

We’ve already covered some of the hardware upgrades you can invest in to remove dead spots and boost your home upload and download speeds. So in this guide, we’ll focus on software fixes and changes you can make to your existing gear. If those adjustments don’t work, switching to a mesh network or buying a WiFi extender can also improve your wireless internet speed.

Upgrade your router software

Just like your laptop and cell phone, routers run their own software. In this case, it’s called firmware because it’s so tightly tied to the hardware—the manufacturer installs and configures it before shipping the device. Companies don’t often issue updates for their routers’ firmware, but many do make new versions of their software available for download. These updates fix bugs and may also include performance upgrades, as well as extra support for newer devices on the market.

The best way to find new firmware for your router is to head to the manufacturer’s website or the internet service provider that gave you the router. If you can’t find a download link, run a web search using “firmware” followed by your router’s make and model.

The exact process for installing firmware varies from router to router. Typically, you open the device settings on your computer and look for the option that lets you install an update from a downloaded file (often a ZIP archive) on your hard drive. The downloaded package usually includes installation instructions, but if you’re still not sure how to do it, consult the router instruction manual or look up the instructions online.

Change the wireless channel

Here’s another trick to try with a slow router: change the wireless channel it uses. This means slightly adjusting the wireless frequency that your WiFi signal is broadcast on. Your router should have a setting that lets you modify the channel, likely listed under a heading like Wireless or Advanced. If you can’t find it immediately, look up instructions online or in the router manual.

Most routers use channel 6 by default. Change this to 1 or 11 (to minimize interference with channel 6), and you might notice better WiFi performance. All of your connected devices will also need to connect to this new channel, but the majority of your gear will do so automatically, with no need to adjust the WiFi name or password. You might have to play around a bit before you arrive at the best channel, but stick to 1, 6, or 11 for the best chance of getting the fastest speeds.

[Related: 6 router settings you should change right now]

In a related trick, some more advanced routers offer two frequency bands: the standard 2.4GHz band and the faster 5GHz band. These bands follow the same principle as the channels mentioned above, but when you switch bands, you’re shifting the frequency much further. That means WiFi-enabled devices you connect to different bands won’t interfere with each other.

If your router supports dual bands (check your model’s documentation for details), you’ll usually see two different WiFi networks you can connect to. Divide your devices across both networks, depending on the speed and range each piece of hardware needs from your WiFi. For example, the 5GHz band typically offers faster speeds but shorter range, so devices closer to your router should use that one. It’ll stream your Spotify tunes more reliably to your gaming console, but it’s not as good at blasting through walls and doors as the older 2.4GHz standard. Use the latter for devices you move around your home, such as phones, or those located farther away from the router, and you should see increased WiFi speeds on all your devices.

Not every router can handle both bands, but most manufactured in recent years support these standards. On either band, if you’re getting sub-optimal WiFi speeds and seeing buffering wheels more often than you’d like, you can still change the wireless channel used in the 5GHz range or the 2.4GHz one. Check out your router’s help pages for more information on your options.

Control the bandwidth

Internet use can quickly eat up your available bandwidth, especially on slow connections or those shared among multiple people. So if you’re struggling to get a decent speed, try investigating what else is happening on your network. For example, running Netflix alongside Hulu while you take multiple video calls probably isn’t the best way to maximize your streaming speed.

As you work, visit a site like Speedtest.net to check your internet speed and see what you’re currently getting. But taking steps to increase those speeds means you’ll have to patrol the specific use of your home WiFi network—which is up to you and the people you live with. The easiest solution for maximum speeds is turning off devices not currently in use. This will not only save you money on your energy bill, but will also make sure that those computers, televisions, and tablets can’t possibly be wasting the bandwidth you need for another application. You can also dig into individual device settings to see which apps are using up the most WiFi.

[Related: Find the perfect internet speed for you]

At the same time, you’ll want to make sure no unwelcome visitors or invasive neighbors are lurking on your home network. Your router should have come with WiFi password protection already enabled. Changing this password on a regular basis—not to mention keeping it secret—will help you keep your network to yourself and your invited guests.

Another option is to specify which internet uses you value most. Some routers include a feature called Quality of Service, or QoS, which lets you prioritize certain applications (like Netflix) or types of content (like video) over others. You could use it to make sure your video calls stay stable even if that makes the Spotify stream spotty. Some routers also let you prioritize certain devices (maybe your computer) over others (maybe your roommate’s). If your router has a QoS feature, look on the manufacturer’s website or in the supplied manual for instructions on setting it up and telling the router what you’d like to prioritize.

Avoid the fish tank (and other large, dense objects)

Plenty of innocuous household objects will slow down your WiFi—including the water inside fish tanks. Now you know why your laptop never gets a signal when it’s behind the aquarium in your study. Even if you keep a fish-free home, try moving your furniture to put as few objects as possible (including walls) between your devices and your router.

In addition to bulky objects, anything that emits a wireless signal can interfere with the WiFi your router broadcasts. That includes wireless baby monitors, wireless landline phones, microwaves, Bluetooth keyboards and mice, and even string lights. All of these generate electromagnetic interference that can reduce your upload and download speeds. In most cases, the disruption should be minimal, but it’s worth bearing in mind if you’re experiencing problems. Rearranging the aforementioned items can help boost WiFi speed throughout your home, but if that solution is inconvenient, just switch your router to its 5GHz channel: Most microwaves and other wireless gear use the 2.4GHz frequency, so the higher band should be less congested.

This story has been updated. It was originally published in 2017.

The post How to increase your WiFi speed appeared first on Popular Science.

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If you struggle to fit reading into your day, the best audiobook apps let you multitask and listen to the latest releases while driving, exercising, or even making dinner. Audiobooks are increasingly popular, and by 2022, more than 140 million Americans had listened to one, according to Publisher’s Weekly. 

Audiobook apps vary in features and the breadth of their libraries. Many require a monthly or yearly subscription, and some offer media beyond audiobooks, such as podcasts. Voracious listeners may prefer a subscription service where you can indulge in as many audiobooks as you want in a month. But if it takes you a month or two to get through an audiobook, a pay-per-book platform will probably be more economical. 

Ultimately, the operating system of your devices, your listening preferences, and budget will all factor into the app that’s right for you as you discover your next great adventure.

1. Best overall: Audible

Founded in 1995 and acquired by Amazon in 2008, Audible is one of the pioneers in the audiobook space. The service lets you get your hands on almost any title that’s in audiobook form. You’ll also get access to podcasts, exclusives, and originals that are only available on the platform. 

Audible offers two membership tiers, and both provide access to the Audible ‘Plus’ catalog, which contains more than 10,000 audiobooks. The Audible Premium Plus membership adds one credit per month, so you can buy books outside of the Plus catalog, giving you access to an additional 470,000 audiobooks. Without the premium membership, you can purchase credits to listen to more audiobooks.

The platform also lets you keep access to your Audible books even if you cancel your subscription. In contrast, similar apps, like Scribd, only provide access to purchased books as long as you subscribe to the app. Others, like Hoopla and Libby, let you peruse your local library’s list of audiobooks. But they only provide access for a few weeks before you have to get on the reading list again. 

2. Best for iPhone: Apple Books

Apple Books is a convenient way to get digital reads and audiobooks that sync to all of your Apple devices. Unlike many audiobook apps, Apple Books isn’t a subscription service. It works more like a digital bookstore, where you pay for each book. 

For those who only listen to a book or two a month, Apple Books might cost less than a subscription service. Plus, if you have months where you don’t have time to listen at all, you won’t be paying for an unused subscription. There’s also a decent selection of free audiobooks that includes classics such as Pride and Prejudice if your budget gets tight. 

Beyond the monetary pros and cons, the app itself offers a robust library that’s easy to navigate, thanks to effective categorization. You can browse thousands of titles by popular genres, but you can also search by other categories such as free books, new and trending, book club picks, and Apple recommendations. And you can sample short snippets before you make your final decision. 

The library goes beyond audiobooks to digital titles as well. In theory, you could do most of your reading, audio or otherwise, in this single app. Your Apple devices will require iOS 10 or later, but you can sync across the board, including iPads, iPhone, some iPods, and some Apple Watches. Bonus—you also have the option to download and import Audible titles, so add that to your Audible tips and tricks list if you find yourself moving between the two.

Apple Books is free for iOS, iPadOS, and watchOS.

3. Best for nonfiction: Blinkist

Blinkist isn’t just an audiobook app. It’s not even just a book app. This unique app focuses on all things learning, from podcasts and book summaries to audiobooks. It’s some of the best value you’ll get if you’re focused on nonfiction, even more so if you’re usually short on time. 

The app offers book summaries in manageable 15-minute chunks, and includes popular books like Atomic Habits by James Clear. You can download titles to access them offline or send them to Kindle. Books are arranged by topics, including love, self-help, memoirs, autobiographies, and more. Popular new releases and classics are readily available. The goal is to “feed your brain” and improve your mind and body with content that fits a busy lifestyle. 

[Related: Tips for learning two languages at once]

Blinkist is an easy way to access facts and books you might not have time to get to otherwise, and it doesn’t take long before you get personalized recommendations based on your preferences and habits. You get a seven-day free trial, then it costs $15.99 per month for the monthly plan or $8.24 per month if you opt to pay yearly.

Blinkist is available on iOS, iPadOS, and Android.

4. Best free: LibriVox

Subscriptions and monthly purchases can quickly add up. For those on a tight budget, LibriVox offers free (and legal) audiobooks. Their catalog consists of more than 40,000 books available in the public domain, read by volunteers. 

You won’t find the latest releases, but you can catch up on classics. The books are DRM-free so you can download audiobooks as many times as you’d like and listen when you’re offline or on other devices. This matters because DRM (Digital Rights Management) prevents unauthorized copying of copyrighted content, but can cause problems on your devices, too. No need to worry about all that with LibriVox, though, because every bit of its content is in the public domain. 

The interface isn’t sleek or fancy, but it offers bookmark and timer features to support your basic listening needs. If you’re up for a bit of out-loud reading, you can volunteer to read a book yourself. However, the quality of the narration varies by volunteer, so you may skip some books because the storytelling doesn’t do it justice. Still, you can’t beat free audiobooks and a platform that celebrates the love of literature. 

LibriVox is available for iOS, iPadOS, and Android.

5. Best budget: Chirp

Chirp is where thrift store meets audiobooks. It’s owned by BookBub, an author promotion site. Thousands of subscribers scramble to get deals on new or popular books, like $5 for a Harlan Coben audiobook. The deal on any one particular book usually lasts a few days and listings show a countdown for how much longer the deal will last. Authors vie for the best promotions because of Bookbub’s extensive reach.

Chirp fits into the picture by offering discounted audiobooks. For listeners, Chirp is a win for the savings, and for authors, the platform is a great way to  find new readers. You pay by the book rather than a subscription fee. And the depth of the discounts vary.

On the downside, deals are limited, so you have to act fast when you see a book you want. The app itself is free, and you get to keep the audiobooks you purchase, so it’s a great way to build your library on a budget.

Chirp is free for iOS, iPadOS, and Android.

The post The best audiobook apps for books and podcasts appeared first on Popular Science.

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The rear camera on your iPhone 15 (also present on the iPhone 14 Pro and iPhone 14 Pro Max) is more powerful and versatile than you might have realized. It features a 48-megapixel sensor but default settings only allow it to take 24MP snaps.

The good news is that you can delve into your iPhone’s settings to switch your camera to full capacity and get more detail in your photos. There are some trade-offs you should know about, and the exact options vary depending on the iPhone you’re using. But if you’re serious about your smartphone photography, you should learn about the modes available to you and how they work.

How the iPhone 15 cameras work

When you take a photo on your iPhone 15 without the ultrawide or zoom sensors, iOS uses  the main 48MP sensor to create a 24MP shot. There are two reasons for that—first, it keeps file size down, and second, it allows pixel binning, which means the camera combines multiple pixels to capture more light and produce a better image.

However, if you have the room on your iPhone to store the resulting snaps, you can switch to 48MP photos. Professional photographers often make the switch because capturing more pixels provides more flexibility over the final shot by letting you take control over how those pixels are processed. 

[Related: Check out some of the winners of the latest iPhone Photography Awards]

But you should know there are differences depending on the iPhone you’re using.  The dual-lens on the iPhone 15 and the iPhone 15 Plus, has a slightly inferior 48MP sensor than the triple-lens on the iPhone 15 Pro and the iPhone 15 Pro Max—the number of pixels is the same, but the pixel-capturing tech isn’t quite as good.

The other key difference is that the iPhone 15 Pro and Pro Max can capture RAW images, which Apple calls ProRAW photos. This format provides all the raw data from a digital image, providing photographers even more control and options over their work. RAW snaps take a little longer to process, use up a lot more storage space, and need some photo know-how to optimize, which is why the average smartphone photographer doesn’t bother with them.

The iPhone 15 and iPhone 15 Plus don’t have the processing grunt to manage RAW snaps, but they can still capture 48MP images in either HEIF or JPEG format. The result is still 48MP-size pictures but they’ll be slightly compressed, which takes away some of the manual post-processing control you get with RAW images. In certain ways, using a HEIF or JPEG format (which you can also do on the Pro models) goes halfway between shooting 24MP snaps and 48MP ProRAW, with the added benefit of significantly cutting down file sizes.

If you’re considering making the switch to 48MP photos, bear in mind that means a slightly longer time between tapping the shutter button and seeing your image on screen. What’s more, the dynamic range (the spread between the darkest blacks and the whitest whites) won’t be quite as good without pixel binning. 

How to change the iPhone 15 camera settings

Having absorbed all of that information about photo formats, you’re ready to start making changes. Head to Settings in iOS, then tap on Camera. Unless you’re already shooting in RAW, your first choice will be between High Efficiency (HEIF) or Most Compatible (JPEG) for the image format.

Which one you pick is really up to you and will depend on what you’re doing with your snaps after you’ve taken them. HEIF tends to result in smaller file sizes, but JPEG is generally compatible with a broader range of software on desktop and the web. There’s plenty of information about both online.

[Related: The easiest ways to back up iPhone photos without iCloud]

To unlock the 48MP photos, turn on Resolution Control (on the iPhone 15 and iPhone 15 Plus) or ProRAW & Resolution Control (on the iPhone 15 Pro and iPhone 15 Pro Max). On the latter models you can also tap Pro Default to pick your preferred format: The list includes HEIF Max (up to 48MP), JPEG Max (up to 48MP), ProRAW 12MP, and ProRAW Max (up to 48MP). Underneath these options, Apple lists the average file size for each format, so you have an idea of how much space each picture will take up—10MB for a 48MP JPEG, for example, and 75MB for a 48MP ProRAW.

Launch the camera on your iPhone, and the new 48MP option will appear in the corner. It’ll be crossed out to begin with, so tap the icon to turn it on and choose which format you want to shoot—HEIF Max, JPEG Max, or RAW Max. On the iPhone 15 Pro and Pro Max, press and hold on the icon to switch between HEIF/JPEG and ProRAW. Note that you won’t get the option to switch to ProRAW on the iPhone 15 and iPhone 15 Plus.

By default, the Camera app will forget that you enabled 48MP photos when you switch to another app, so the option will be crossed out again when you come back to it. To tell the camera to keep the 48MP enabled, open the iOS Settings screen, tap Camera, Preserve Settings, and then either Resolution Control or Apple ProRAW & Resolution Control, depending on your iPhone model.

Note that because of the way the iPhone 15 produces photos, it will default back to 24MP whenever you’re taking Live Photos or macro shots, or using Night mode or the flash. This will happen no matter what settings you’ve changed simply because those different modes require different types of image processing.

The post How to unlock the hidden, more powerful camera on the iPhone 15 appeared first on Popular Science.

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Editing photos on an iPhone may seem intimidating, given all the options and settings, but it’s accessible to all skill levels. Thanks to its user-friendly interface and intuitive controls, you can easily enhance your images with preset effects or manually adjust settings to achieve the desired look. No expensive editing software necessary.

The iPhone’s photo editor also offers advanced features such as selective editing, which allows you to make precise adjustments to specific areas of your images. Additionally, you can easily share your edited photos directly from the app by posting them to social media platforms or sending them to friends and family. 

How to edit photos on an iPhone

Since most of us snap pictures on the fly, we are not thinking about the composition or lighting when we take the photo. We are trying to capture a moment as quickly as possible. Thankfully, that’s where post-editing comes in. Like icing a cake, editing images gives them a finished look. And editing photos on an iPhone might be even easier than messing around with gloopy buttercream.

Crop, rotate, or flip your photo

Was your selfie interrupted by a random bystander? No worries; that’s why there’s the crop tool. Cropping is one of the easiest and fastest ways to remove unwanted elements or distractions from the frame. Trimming the edges can also help improve a photo’s composition by adjusting the placement and balance of elements within the frame. In Photos, tap any thumbnail to view it in full screen. To start making changes, tap Edit, then tap the crop icon to choose one of three ways you can crop a photo.

1. Manual crop: With the crop icon selected, drag the rectangle’s corners to enclose the area you want to keep in the photo. Tap Done to crop.

2. Zoom crop: Alternatively, you can crop iPhone images by activating the crop tool and pinching them to zoom in. When the photo appears as you want it cropped, hit Done to save.

3. Use a preset ratio: Tap the aspect ratio icon in the upper right corner (a small rectangle with other rectangles stacked on top), then choose one of the cropping options, including square, wallpaper, 9:16, and 5:4. Hit Done to save the change.

• Pro tip: If you choose a ratio crop, such as 9:16, you can select a vertical or horizontal orientation by tapping the two rectangles below the image.

How to rotate a picture on iPhone

Tap the rotate icon (a square with an arrow curving around one corner) to turn the photo 90 degrees at a time. Keep going until you get the orientation you desire. Hit Done to confirm the changes.

How to flip a photo on iPhone

Touch the flip icon (mirrored triangles with an arrow above them) to reverse the image horizontally. Tap Done to save your edits.

Just know that if you don’t like your crops, rotations, and/or flips at any time during the editing process, you can tap Cancel in the lower left corner of the screen, then hit Discard Changes. 

Straighten your image and adjust the perspective

Sometimes, you don’t notice tilted or skewed lines in a photograph until after you take it. Fortunately, altering the perspective is simple with the iPhone’s editing software. Open a photo on your iPhone, tap Edit, then hit the crop icon.

Under the photo, you will see three options for straightening the horizontal lines in the photo and adjusting the vertical and horizontal perspectives. When you choose the one you want to use, drag the slider underneath to make precise changes. There is also an Auto option at the top of the screen, which will automatically adjust the photo based on the selected adjustment.

1. Straighten: This adjustment, well, straightens out horizontal lines within a photograph.

2. Vertical perspective: Corrects or modifies the perceived height or angle of objects in a photo, straightening vertical lines that may appear tilted or distorted.

3. Horizontal perspective: Changes horizontal lines and angles in photos, ensuring parallel lines and your desired alignment. 

After editing the perspective, select Done to save your changes; if unsatisfied, hit Cancel, followed by Discard Changes.

Adjust light and color

Light and color are important factors when editing photos on an iPhone—and anywhere, really—because they affect an image’s overall mood and visual appeal. The right lighting will bring out the subject’s features, add depth, and make important details stand out. In the same way, changing a photograph’s colors can make the viewer feel certain emotions, set a particular mood, or even send a message. Your phone’s Photos app has several tools that will let you adjust the light and color of your pictures.

[Related: How to take better selfies]

To begin, open the photo you want to alter. Tap Edit, then swipe left under the image to view the effects you can edit. The quickest and easiest way to make adjustments is to tap on Auto, and the slider under the Auto tab will allow you to adjust the intensity of the iPhone’s suggested edit.

If you prefer complete edit control, though, the iPhone photo editor lets you adjust each effect individually for a custom edit. The effects you can alter are:

• Exposure: Increasing exposure can make an image brighter, while decreasing it can create a darker and more dramatic effect. 
• Brilliance: Enhances an image’s overall clarity and vibrancy, making it more visually striking.
• Highlights: Brings out the brightest areas of an image, adding a sense of brightness and contrast.
• Shadows: Darkens the darker areas of an image, creating depth.
• Contrast: Makes the difference between light and dark areas more pronounced.
• Brightness: Changes how light or dark the photo is overall, but not as dramatically as adjusting exposure.
• Blackpoint: Adjusts the darkest point in an image, allowing for greater control over the overall tonal range.
• Saturation: Affects the intensity and richness of colors in an image.
• Vibrance: Similar to saturation, but designed to enhance the colors more subtly and naturally. 
• Warmth: Adjusts the color temperature of an image, making it appear either warmer (more yellow/orange) or cooler (more blue). 
• Tint: Adjusts the overall color balance of an image, adding a subtle hue to the entire picture. 
• Sharpness: Enhances the clarity and detail of an image, making edges and fine textures more defined.
• Definition: Improves an image’s overall sharpness and clarity by enhancing the distinction between different elements and adding depth. 
• Noise Reduction: Reduces digital noise in an image, resulting in a smoother and cleaner appearance. This helps minimize the grainy or speckled effect that can occur in low-light settings. 
• Vignette: Darkens the corners and edges of the image, creating a subtle or dramatic spotlight effect.

To use an effect, tap on its icon and drag the slider underneath to make precise adjustments. The outline around the button indicates the degree of adjustment, and you can toggle between the edited effect and the original to see how much you’ve changed the photo.

Apply filters

Filter effects enable you to easily add creative and artistic elements to your photos, resulting in more visually appealing and captivating images. To apply a filter, open a photo, tap Edit, then tap the Filters button (the three overlapping circles) to pull up the filter effect options. There are nine to choose from. Use the slider underneath your chosen effect to adjust its intensity, and if you need to remove a filter, tap Original. Hit Done to confirm the edit.

Portrait mode editing tips

If you’re someone who likes to use Portrait mode, you’ll need to be familiar with the iPhone’s Portrait mode-specific enhancements. These allow you to adjust the depth of field (also known as bokeh), which is the range of distance within a photograph that appears in sharp focus and makes the subject stand out. Portrait mode’s editing tools also include studio lighting effects for added flexibility and creativity. 

When you open a photo taken in Portrait mode, you will see two editing options not available in the regular photo mode. The effect at the top with the little “f” is f-stop, or depth of field. The circles at the bottom of the screen are lighting effects.

Adjusting the f-stop will increase or decrease blurring in the background. The smaller the f-stop, the more blur you’ll see. A larger f-stop will mean less blur. Tap the f-stop icon, and a slider will appear at the bottom of the screen, allowing you to adjust the effect.

To adjust the lighting, tap one of the effects. You can choose from natural, studio, contour, stage, stage light mono, and high-key light mono. Move the slider to the left or right to increase or decrease the effect. 

Write or draw on a photo

It can be fun to write or draw on a picture, and the iPhone makes it easy to do so. Choose a photo, then go to Edit and tap the pen-shaped button. Use the various drawing tools and colors to draw on the picture.

You can tap the plus button to magnify or add a caption, text, shapes, or even your signature. Tap Done to save your changes, or tap Cancel if you don’t like them.

How to undo photo edits on an iPhone

Don’t worry if you make an editing mistake—the iPhone’s Photos app gives you plenty of opportunities to undo your edits.

Undo and redo edits: While editing a photo, tap the left and right arrows at the top of the screen to undo and redo multiple edit steps.

Revert an edited photo: If you save changes and decide you do not like the edit, you can open up the photo, select Edit, and then hit Revert to restore the original version. 

Copy and paste edits to multiple photos

The iPhone allows you to copy edits from one photo and paste them onto one or more others, an ability that is particularly useful when you’re trying to edit a series of similar photos. Start by opening the photo that contains the edits you want to copy. Then tap the More Options button (three dots), followed by Copy Edits. Hit Cancel, then the back button to return to your photo library.

From there, tap Select, then touch the thumbnails of the photos to which you want to apply the edits. Finally, select Paste Edits from the More Options menu.

How to remove the subject from a photo on an iPhone

Although you can’t edit the background of a photo with the iPhone’s Photos app (you’ll need to install a separate app for that), you can cut and paste one part of the picture—the subject.

To do so, the photo’s subject and background should be clearly distinct, and the background shouldn’t be too busy or similar to the subject. Start by opening an image, then pressing and holding the subject. You should see a white glow around the subject, and a window should pop up asking you to Copy or Share. If that doesn’t work, move your finger around and try again—sometimes, it takes more than one attempt to select a subject.

When it does work, your iPhone will automatically separate the subject from the background, and you’ll be able to copy and paste it into another app, or share it using standard sharing options.

If necessary, change the date, time, or location

Your iPhone stores the date, time, and location in the photo’s metadata. If you need to alter this information, you can. Open the photo you want to change, then tap the More Options button (three dots) in the upper right corner. Touch Adjust Date & Time or Adjust Location, enter the new information, and hit Adjust.

To change the date, time, or location of multiple photos at once, tap Select, touch the thumbnails of the images you want to change, and follow the steps above. Don’t worry if you change your mind, either—you can undo your metadata edits by tapping the More Options button, followed by Adjust Date & Time or Adjust Location, then Revert.

FAQ

The post How to edit photos on an iPhone—a detailed guide appeared first on Popular Science.

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You are more than a data point. The Opt Out is here to help you take your privacy back.

AMERICANS SPEND A LOT of time in cars. Whether you have a long commute, enjoy riding with friends as they drive around, or just like sitting in the parking lot for a bit of solo time, a car might feel like an extension of your home—an intimate space for you to sing out of tune or seek silence in the middle of your day.

Unfortunately, if you’re in a car that was manufactured within the past few years, that environment isn’t as private as you think it is. Carmakers have been adding sensors, cameras, and microphones to their vehicles to improve safety and usability, but these bits of tech are also collecting a hefty amount of data that the automotive industry and other companies are selling and sharing. And don’t think this applies only to car owners: Your privacy is also at risk if you rent a car or are simply sitting in a passenger seat.  

These newer cars know what you say, where you go, and possibly even whom you’re sleeping with and how often. It’s scary, but what’s scarier is that consumers currently have little choice but to consent. 

More than computers on wheels

Cars have been equipped with onboard computers and sensors for a while now. The tools’ applications have always been rather practical—letting you know when your fuel tank is close to empty or when your machine is due for an oil change, even allowing you to get full system diagnostics via Bluetooth. But as technology advanced, so did the role of electronics within every vehicle. Now cars can help you master parallel parking, respond to your voice commands, and even alert you to the presence of other drivers as you change lanes.

“A lot of this can be used as safety features, but [car companies] are not going to let the opportunity to collect data and make money off of that slip away. They’re not just doing it for safety,” says Jen Caltrider, program director for Privacy Not Included, a series of privacy-focused consumer product reviews, at the Mozilla Foundation. 

The same navigational tool that guides you to your destination, for example, is collecting your location data, and the sensors that show which passenger hasn’t buckled up can tell if you’re alone or not, where people are sitting, and if there’s any movement. Those capabilities alone provide hundreds, if not thousands of data points every day that go straight to the car manufacturer’s servers. It’s hard to tell if any of that information is encrypted or not, Caltrider says.

Other than what your car’s sensors and cameras track, manufacturers also learn about you from other sources. If you’re buying a car, the data harvesting starts with every visit to the dealership or the brand’s website, and it continues when you enlist the help of a bank or some other type of financial institution to pay for your car. Then, when you drive home in your new ride, manufacturers keep gathering data through the car’s app. You can choose not to use the app, but it’s likely you’ll lose access to any vehicle features that require it, such as remote ignition. And then there’s what Caltrider and her team call “connected services,” including insurance companies and navigation and entertainment apps like Here and Sirius XM, which have basically become data brokers in the vehicle data industry. The bad news is that it’s unclear exactly how the information flows, how it’s shared, and where and how it’s stored. 

Your car might know too much about you

In September, Caltrider and her research team at the Mozilla Foundation launched an in-depth analysis of the privacy policies of 25 car companies doing business in the US, including the most popular ones: Toyota, Ford, Chevrolet, and Honda. The results? The Mozilla team labeled cars the worst product category it has ever reviewed for privacy.

When you read the privacy policy for any app or device, it’s common to feel confused. Tech companies have been writing privacy policies for decades, and they generally include broad or vague terms that make you feel as if they care about your data—or at least don’t make it obvious that they don’t. Car privacy policies are different: way more explicit and entirely absurd.

“Car companies are moving into the tech company world,” Caltrider says. “But they’re so inexperienced at it and it really shows.”

One of the wildest privacy policies in the Mozilla Foundation’s report is Nissan’s, which requires users to consent to the collection of sensitive information including sexual orientation, sexual activity, health diagnosis data, and genetic information. The document also says this data can be sold or disclosed to third parties for targeted advertising. It’s not clear how exactly Nissan is collecting this data or if it’s currently capable of doing so, but the fact that you’re agreeing to all of this by simply buying a Nissan is problematic enough. 

And these requirements don’t affect only drivers and car owners, as consent is murky territory in the land of vehicle privacy policies. For one thing, cars don’t grant the same control over data collection that your phone does. Most of the time, car owners will see a request for permissions on a single screen that pops up when they first set up their new car, and they may not be able to go back to it and revoke those permissions later on. 

That also means there’s assumed consent from anybody who steps inside the vehicle. Privacy policies like that of Subaru make it clear that terms and conditions affect everyone on board, regardless of whether they’re the vehicle’s registered owner or not. This means that the company burdens Subaru owners with the responsibility of informing all their passengers about the privacy policy and assumes that people are agreeing to it just by stepping into the car. It’s a safe bet that no ride-share driver or courteous coworker has ever read you a long list of types of data collection you needed to consent to before they’d give you a ride home. 

Car manufacturers, vehicle data hubs, and other actors in the industry, like insurance companies, calm concerned drivers and passengers by promising that the data they collect and save is anonymized, meaning it cannot be traced back to specific people. While anonymizing data is a common practice that’s meant to protect individuals’ privacy, research has shown that it’s not always effective and that the owner of any anonymized data can be easily re-identified when the information is combined with other datasets. This is especially true when location data is involved, Caltrider says. 

As we’ve mentioned, targeted advertising is one of the main uses car companies and third parties have for collecting data with vehicles, but it’s not the only one. More than half of the manufacturers analyzed in the Mozilla Foundation’s report say they can “share your information with the government or law enforcement in response to a ‘request.’” This leaves a lot of room for abuse, as there are no details about whether this request can be as informal as a call or an email to the right person, or if it must be a powerful document, like a court order. 

Unlike with home security cameras, it’s hard to tell exactly how many times these companies have responded to requests from police and other law enforcement agencies. But a 2021 Forbes investigation revealed that both Customs and Border Protection (CBP) and Immigrations and Customs Enforcement (ICE) had been requesting information from three companies in the vehicle data industry, including General Motors, which is the parent company of Buick, Chevrolet, Cadillac, and GMC. 

Regulation is the answer

The automotive industry in the US is huge—it brought more than $156 billion to the US economy in 2022, and more than 75 percent of Americans own a car. You’d imagine that such a rich market would include several car brands privacy-savvy users can choose from, but the Mozilla Foundation report is categorical: When it comes to data protection, they’re all bad. 

This leaves people who need to buy a new car with little choice but to consent to data collection. And it leaves their passengers with even less choice. Because it’s not only luxury vehicles that come equipped with sophisticated sensors and cameras—classic sedans like the Toyota Corolla and family SUVs like the Ford Escape also have them. As much as we’d like to say there’s an individualistic DIY way to snatch back your privacy, there’s not. You’ll have to appeal to the powers that be.

“Get mad and contact your elected officials,” says Caltrider. “It’s past time the US had a strong federal privacy law.”

She also recommends not using your car’s app, but acknowledges that this is a bandage solution and might not be an option for some people. Some of the features people need, like being able to warm the car in cold weather by turning it on remotely, require the use of the software. 

Using our power as constituents and asking our elected officials for laws that protect our data is the best chance we have of taking back the intimacy we once found inside our vehicles. Car companies simply aren’t going to change on their own—just like tech companies, they have no incentives to do so.

“And it’s not like they have a long history of ethical behavior,” Caltrider says. “They have quite the opposite.”

Read more PopSci+ stories.

The post The Opt Out: Cars are spying on us, and we’re letting them appeared first on Popular Science.

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Video calls are a part of life now, but they can be a nightmare if your hardware is not up to par. You can upgrade your setup with a USB microphone (which can come in real handy if you’re putting up video calls on your TV) but if you’re a Mac user with an iPhone, you already have all you need. 

You can use your phone as a microphone when you make video calls from your Apple computer. This functionality is part of a feature called Continuity Camera, and it’s easy to set up. Any iPhone made after 2018 and running iOS 16 or newer will work, while all Macs running macOS Ventura or newer will fit the bill.  

How to set up Continuity Camera in macOS

To use your phone as a microphone on desktop video calls, you’ll need a Mac and an iPhone signed into the same iCloud account. 

Start by making your computer recognize your handheld device as an available sound source. On the Mac, click the Apple logo in the top-left corner of the screen and open System Settings. In the left-hand panel, go to Sound, and under Output and Input, click the Input tab. 

[Related: 7 tips and tricks to get more out of Apple’s newly updated Messages app]

You will see your iPhone as an audio source—select it. You’ll automatically see a full-screen pop-up on your phone with a couple of buttons. The Pause button on your phone to temporarily mute yourself when on a call, while Disconnect will completely remove your iPhone from your Mac’s audio inputs list. Don’t hit this button unless that’s what you want, otherwise you’ll have to go through the setup all over again. 

Once your computer recognizes your iPhone as a microphone, you can select it as the preferred audio source from most video call apps, including Zoom, Microsoft Teams, and Google Meet. 

• In Zoom, find the audio settings by clicking zoom.us in the upper left corner of your screen, then go to Preferences, and click the Audio tab. You can choose your iPhone under Microphone. 
• In Google Meet, click the three dots left of the hangup button in the bottom toolbar and go to Settings. You’ll be able to choose your iPhone in the Microphone options. 
• In Microsoft Teams, click the three-dot menu to the left of your name, click Settings, and head over to Devices. You can select your iPhone in the Microphone drop down menu. 

I’ve found using an iPhone as a microphone during video calls comes in very handy, particularly if I’m part of a group of people taking the call on a single device. I put the phone on the table, between everyone, while my laptop sits far enough so that we all fit into the camera frame. That usually means the microphone is too far away to pick up our voices, so the iPhone is extremely helpful—the speaker can even hold it while they talk and pass it along when they’re done, if necessary. 

[Related: 6 great features to try out in the iOS 17 public beta]

You can also use this feature to turn your laptop into a karaoke machine: your iPhone instantly becomes a wireless microphone. 

The post You can easily turn your iPhone into a Mac mic appeared first on Popular Science.

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If you’re splurging on a foldable phone like the Samsung Galaxy Z Fold 5, make sure you’re getting your money’s worth by exploring all the options and features the handset has to offer.

When you’ve got twice as many screens as normal, you get a lot more functionalities and flexibility: From quickly getting apps running side by side, to dragging and dropping texts and images between them.

1. Customize full screen apps

Unfortunately, not every Android app is developed to run on a screen as large as the main display of the Galaxy Z Fold 5. You might see black bars at the side of certain apps, as well as other odd behavior.

But you can fix this by going to Settings, then Display and Full screen apps. Pick an tool, and choose how you’d like it to show up. Full screen is the option to go for if you don’t want any black bars, though it may cause some distortion on certain apps.

2. Drag and drop between apps

With two apps open on screen, the Z Fold 5 is very adept at transferring content between them. Try tapping and holding an image in your web browser, for example, then dragging it across to an email you’re composing on the other side of the screen. The system will drop the picture right into the message—no copying, pasting, or saving required.

[Related: 7 Samsung phone hacks you need to try right now]

Note that this feature doesn’t work in every single app, but it will run smoothly in a lot them: Google’s Gmail and Chrome, Samsung’s Gallery and Notes, and Microsoft’s PowerPoint and Outlook, are some of the apps that support dragging and dropping.

3. Bring up the Flex panel

Flex mode is when you make a 90-degree angle with the Z Fold 5, so you have one half laying flat on a surface while the other is propped up straight. This allows certain apps to display different content on each side. Try opening the Camera app to see what we mean— you’ll see the shutter window at the top and the camera controls underneath.

There’s also the Flex panel, which will work with any app that supports multi-window use (most now do). Open Settings and then go to Advanced features > Labs > Flex mode panel, and enable the feature.

Now, when you turn your phone to landscape mode, you’ll get a little Flex panel icon (a gray diamond shape) in the lower left hand corner. Tap the icon to make the panel pop up: you’ll get a little touchpad to use with the app that’s on the top half of the screen, as well as quick access to certain features and the screenshot tool.

Try using the Flex panel with a web browser to see how useful it can be: You’ll be able to select links and elements on screen just as you would on a desktop operating system.

4. Get more content on screen

Make your way to Settings and go to Display and Screen layout and zoom. This page lets you change the size of the fonts and other elements on screen, which means you can get more content on your Z Fold 5 display at the same time—whether you’re working with one or multiple apps on the screen.

5. Switch seamlessly to the cover screen

By default, the Samsung Galaxy Z Fold 5 treats the larger main screen and the smaller cover screen separately, so apps that you’re using on the big display won’t automatically switch over to the outer display when you close the phone.

But if you would like to transfer apps seamlessly, open up Display from Settings, then tap on Continue apps on cover screen. You’ll be able to have this happen with all apps, or only with specific ones.

6. Change how multi window works

One of the key advantages of a foldable device like the Z Fold 5 is how easily you can get multiple apps and windows up alongside each other. Most of the time the Z Fold 5 handles this perfectly well on its own, but you can make some tweaks by heading to Settings, and then going to Advanced features and Multi window.

For example, you can enable Swipe for split screen. This feature will let you swipe in with two fingers from the left-hand edge of the main display to go from full screen mode to split screen mode. When you do, the Z Fold 5 will prompt you to choose another app to go alongside the one you’re already looking at.

7. Customize the taskbar

The taskbar at the bottom of the screen is crucial for getting around your foldable phone and the apps on it, so make sure it’s set up the way you want it. From Settings, pick Display and Taskbar, and choose how many recent apps you want to see at the bottom of the screen. You can also completely hide the taskbar, if you prefer.

[Related: Samsung Galaxy Z Flip4 review: Powerful vibes]

From the Display screen you can also select Navigation bar and choose whether you want to navigate your phone using gestures or the traditional back, home and recent buttons. If you’re not sure about the differences between these two options, you’ll see explanations for them on screen. Just keep in mind that using gestures will free up more space on the taskbar for you.

Note that the apps on the left of the taskbar are the same as those in the dock on the home screen. You can drag apps in and out of the dock if you want to change this selection.

The post 7 tips to get the most out of your Samsung Galaxy Z Fold 5 appeared first on Popular Science.

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Your choice of search engine makes a big difference in the relevance (and privacy) of your search results. The first search engine, known as Archie, was developed by a student at McGill University and released in 1990. Today, there are more than 20 search engines that range from powerhouses like Google to lesser-known, more specialized options. 

Some search engines, such as Google, highlight their AI assistants, but the truth is that artificial intelligence has been behind search engines for years. But if you want an assistant to winnow search results, AI can help you get more relevant results. 

Even if you use a browser with a built-in search engine, you’re not beholden to it. You can, for example, add search engines to Google Chrome, giving you extra options when you want to perform photo searches or need extra privacy. Before you set your default search engine, though, consider how you use searches and how you feel about data privacy. These factors can direct you toward the top search engine for your inquiring mind.

1. Google

Google is the No. 1 search engine used today, handling more than 83 percent of searches, according to Statista. That number may rise or fall depending on the month, but needless to say, Google’s got the majority of the market when it comes to searches. 

Google is a robust search engine that powers sites like YouTube and integrates full-service features like Google Workspace. It’s much more than a search engine that allows you to gather everything from your latest curiosity to professional collaboration in one place. 

In February 2023, Google introduced Bard, an AI-powered search assistant. Search engines have used AI algorithms for years to identify patterns and customize search results and ads to individual users, but we’re entering a new age of heavy focus on AI. If you’re hoping Bard will hold up to OpenAI’s ChatGPT, though, it’s got a ways to go. That said, with the speed that AI adapts, it may not be long before Google has a leading assistant for generative as well as search purposes. 

This engine also gets high marks for the layout and variety of features like snippets, knowledge panels, and “people also ask” sections that can help you further refine results. On the downside, Google is a data hog and hangs onto your information to customize your experience. On one hand, you’ll see ads and results that are more relevant to your likes and preferences. On the other hand, privacy issues and data usage are real concerns. Some people find Google more than a little invasive.

2. Bing

If you’re looking for search engines other than Google, Bing is a top contender. Bing doesn’t have nearly Google’s market share, but it’s second in popularity worldwide. Microsoft created Bing in 2009 and has developed it into an impressive search engine, especially when it comes to the integration of AI. 

The Bing search results pages on Bing look eerily similar to Google’s. Many users may have a hard time telling the difference between the two. However, Bing’s image, video, and map searching abilities are some of the best, with the video and image features topping the market.

Bing also offers a rewards program, which earns you points every time you shop or search with Bing. After you’ve accumulated enough points, you can redeem them for gift cards or use them to donate to your favorite charity. You earn about five points per search, so doing a lot of online research could earn you a few bucks each month. 

Like Google, Bing collects data to customize the ads and searches that appear, which you may or may not appreciate. Consequently, Bing, like Google, might not be the best choice if privacy is your top concern.

3. DuckDuckGo

If all that data collection has your skin crawling, DuckDuckGo is worth a try. If you compare Google vs. DuckDuckGo vs. Bing, DuckDuckGo might not be as comprehensive, but it puts privacy over pure search power. It doesn’t store your data, track you, or collect cookies. You’ll still see ads, but they won’t be customized based on your searches. 

This search engine uses its own crawler and incorporates a few other search engines, but not Google. The company skips the monster search engine in an effort to provide a different user experience. It’s organized similarly to other search engines, with search categories at the top for images and videos that match your search.

[Related: 7 ways DuckDuckGo can help you find exactly what you need]

However, there’s only one results page per search, which is kind of nice if you’re easily overwhelmed by Google’s millions of results when all you’re doing is looking for the best WiFi routers. While DuckDuckGo isn’t set to dethrone Google, it’s gained a steady following with the privacy it offers.

4. Startpage

Startpage approaches search with a philosophy that’s similar to DuckDuckGo by focusing on security and privacy. It keeps prying eyes (and advertisers) from following your every virtual move by refusing to log your search history or save your personal data. That does mean some searches take a little longer. But some users find it worth it for the privacy that remains after they hit exit. 

Startpage uses Google to populate results, which means you’ll get robust results without the targeted ads. The uncluttered search page is a breath of fresh air from some of the larger engines, which can feel like ads are slapping you in the face while you scroll.

This engine also offers an Anonymous View that lets you visit pages without sharing any information about yourself. The process works by removing your IP address before sending the query. Startpage also offers the option of StartMail, a secure email platform.

5. Yahoo

Yahoo has been around since 1994 and uses Bing’s search engine to create results, so expect similar groupings, but it uses its own tech for certain searches, including trending ones. Though not as elegant as Bing or Google, Yahoo’s search page offers categories like weather, news, sports, and trends as well as access to Yahoo’s email service. Yahoo Finance is another big draw and provides quick access to the latest in what’s happening on the stock market. 

If you’re primarily after news and finance info, Yahoo’s got it in spades. You don’t even have to do a Yahoo web search to see the latest headlines with eye-catching photos to boot. Yahoo Maps is another place that sets this engine apart, thanks to an open-source Open Maps service. 

Yahoo also offers subscription-based services like Yahoo Finance Plus for even more insight into the market, investments, and companies on the rise. And, of course, it includes free features like Yahoo Mail.

The post The best search engines for finding results and securing your privacy appeared first on Popular Science.

Articles may contain affiliate links which enable us to share in the revenue of any purchases made.

Best overall		Mount-It! (MI-1772) Dual Monitor Arm		SEE IT	Full articulation and ease of use are what make this dual monitor arm stand out—especially if you don’t have a lot of desk space.
Best wall-mounted		Mountup Dual Monitor Wall Mount		SEE IT	The Mountup Dual Monitor Wall Mount conveys is a more affordable choice if you’re okay installing a more permanent dual monitor setup.
Best budget		VIVO Dual Monitor Desk Mount		SEE IT	VIVO’s Dual Monitor Desk Mount has more features than its modest price suggests.

With so many people working from home, many of us are furnishing our offices on our own dime or with a small work budget rather than requesting equipment at the office—and that can mean some real makeshift monitor stands, etc. Ergonomics, however, is just as important at home as in a cubicle. Using a dual-monitor stand, whether it’s something you put on your desk, a mounted monitor arm, or a bracket you mount on your wall, gives you the freedom to place your screens as you please for both maximum comfort and efficiency. There are many ways to optimize your two-monitor setup: The best dual-monitor stands ensure maximum flexibility, regardless of your approach.

• Best overall: Mount-It! (MI-1772) Dual Monitor Arm
• Best desk-mounted: Ergotron LX Dual Monitor Arm
• Best wall-mounted: Mountup Dual Monitor Wall Mount
• Best freestanding: ErGear Freestanding Dual Monitor Stand
• Best vertical: Hemudu HT05B-002 Dual Monitor Stand
• Best premium: Ergotron HX Desk Dual Monitor Arm
• Best budget: VIVO Dual Monitor Desk Mount

How we chose the best dual-monitor stands

To make our selections, I paired my own personal testing and experience with professional reviews and consumer feedback on Amazon. Our favorite monitor arms and monitor stands for dual-display setups provide a wide range of use cases, installation types, and prices. We also kept brand credibility in mind: Among monitor arm manufacturers, there are a handful of respected companies, and a very large number of lesser-known brands that often offer cheap prices but without the reputation or warranty to back them up.

Best dual-monitor stands: Reviews & Recommendations

So you have two monitors, and you want to put them up on a single adjustable stand. Now that you know the basics of what to look for, we have a few recommendations for the best dual-monitor stands, including desk-mounted, wall-mounted, and freestanding options. No matter your home office or PC gaming setup, there should be a decent option for you among these picks.

Best overall: Mount-It! (MI-1772) Dual Monitor Arm

SEE IT

Buy it used or refurbished: eBay

Why it made the cut: Mount-It’s monitor arm makes it very easy to maneuver two big displays without any friction.

Specs

• Mount type: Desk
• Compatible VESA mount sizes: 75mm x 75mm, 100mm x 100mm
• Adjustment mechanism: Gas-spring mount/free moving
• Weight range: 20lb per arm
• Display size range: 19-32 inches
• Available colors: Black, Silver

Pros

• Requires very little desk space
• Offers fine-grain control over the monitors
• Easy-to-move displays

Cons

• Price

We’ve had great success in our tests of Mount-It!’s single monitor arms, and feel very comfortable recommending this dual-display version to anyone who needs a lot of extra digital real estate to work. The arms can hold large, heavy displays, and each one can be twisted, tilted, and turned in several directions. This level of control can accommodate many work styles: video editors who want to see how their color grading tweaks are affecting the look of footage in real time, office workers who want to dedicate a vertically oriented monitor to their e-mail or messaging client, or gamers who want to monitor their Twitch chat.

Two features have impressed us with Mount-It!’s other monitor stands that apply to this one: The ease at which they allow you to control your monitor and how well their clamping mechanism keeps it firmly attached to your desk. We’ve had no issues moving a 27-inch monitor with one hand, and the ability to move your displays closer and further from your face comes in handy more frequently than you’d expect. If you don’t have a lot of physical desk space, this monitor’s clamp will be incredibly helpful. A monitor stand’s feet can take up a lot more room than you think, and having more area back for your go-to tech accessories is very useful.

Best desk-mounted: Ergotron LX Dual Monitor Arm

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Why it made the cut: The Ergotron LX Dual Monitor Arm is a slick desk mount that balances great build quality and the price that comes with it.

Specs

• Mount type: Desk
• Compatible VESA mount sizes: 75mm x 75mm, 100mm x 100mm
• Adjustment mechanism: Gas-spring mount/free moving
• Weight range: 7-20 lbs
• Display size range: 27 inches
• Available colors: Black/white/silver

Pros

• Superior build quality
• Plenty of ergonomic options
• Easy to install
• Lots of color options

Cons

• Expensive

When you think of monitor mounts, free-moving gas-spring arms typically come to mind. They offer smooth action that allows you to move your screens with precision easily. Though it costs more than many other brands, Ergotron’s LX Dual Monitor Arm dual-monitor arm has a higher quality that justifies the price. Plus, it comes with a 10-year warranty, so you know the company stands behind its product. The Ergotron LX Dual Monitor Arm doesn’t do anything flashy. It just does the basics very well.

Best wall-mounted: Mountup Dual Monitor Wall Mount

SEE IT

Buy it used or refurbished: eBay

Why it made the cut: The Mountup Dual Monitor Wall Mount looks sharp, and strikes a balance between price and features.

Specs

• Mount type: Wall mount
• Compatible VESA mount sizes: 75mm x 75mm, 100mm x 100mm
• Adjustment mechanism: Gas-spring arms/free moving
• Weight range: 3.3 – 17.6 lbs
• Display size range: Up to 32-inch
• Available colors: Chrome/Black

Pros

• Great price
• Very adjustable
• Detachable VESA plates

Cons

• Requires tools to install
• Requires brick, concrete, or wood anchor

If you’re ready to commit to a specific home, spot, and desk setup, you can save a lot of money on a really great dual-monitor arm with the Mountup Dual Monitor Wall Mount. It looks sharp, carries a lot of weight, and costs less than half as much as our desk-mounted pick. That said, this is a heavy dual-monitor arm. Not only do you need to attach it to the wall, the manufacturer specifically calls for you to anchor it on a brick, concrete, or wooden stud. Drywall alone may not hold it up. That’s a huge limitation, but if you have the right setup, this is arguably the most stable way to mount your monitors.

Best freestanding: ErGear Freestanding Dual Monitor Stand

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Buy it used or refurbished: eBay

Why it made the cut: If you don’t want to mount your monitors on arms, ErGear makes a more conventional dual-monitor stand that’s sturdy and offers strong adjustability.

Specs

• Mount type: Desktop stand
• Compatible VESA mount sizes: 75mm x 75mm, 100mm x 100mm
• Adjustment mechanism: Pole-adjusted height/static arm
• Weight range: Up to 22 lbs
• Display size range: 17-32 inches
• Available colors: Black

Pros

• Glass base
• High weight tolerence
• No “install” time
• Price

Cons

• Fewer placement/ergonomic options
• Base takes up space on your desk

We often recommend desk-clamping or wall-mounted monitor arms for their great adjustability and their ability to free up desk space. However, not all of us can use those options: We can’t all drill holes in our walls, and some desks aren’t clamp-friendly. Whether your options are limited, or you simply don’t want to install anything, a desktop or “freestanding” monitor stand is the way to go.

ErGear’s Dual Monitor Stand features a static base column with adjustable spokes for both monitors. It is as adjustable as a dual-monitor arm, but you can still adjust height, tilt, swivel, and rotation to get very good, ergonomically mind positioning. It’s all held down by a large, sturdy black glass base that has enough room under it to route some cables. While it doesn’t free up as much space as a desk-mounted stand, putting both of your monitors on a single stand still opens up your workstation quite a bit.

Best vertical: Hemudu HT05B-002 Dual Monitor Stand

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Buy it used or refurbished: eBay

Why it made the cut: The Hemudu HT05B-002 allows you to set up a vertical stacking configuration without sacrificing stability.

Specs

• Mount type: Desktop stand
• Compatible VESA mount sizes: 50mm x 50mm, 75mm x 75mm, 100mm x 100mm
• Adjustment mechanism: Static mount
• Weight range: 44 lbs per arm
• Display size range: 13-34 inches
• Available colors: Black

Pros

• Can handle very large and heavy displays
• Has plenty of ergonomic options
• Easy to move

Cons

• Fewer adjustment options compared to free-moving arms
• Still takes up desk space

Ergonomics are, ultimately, the core advantage of using a dual-monitor arm. Putting your displays on a single, adjustable mount allows you to position your displays to reduce the number of neck movements you have to do in your daily work. No matter what you do, though, putting two widescreen displays right next to each other ensures that you will need to turn your head to focus on one screen or the other. Suppose you are the kind of person who uses one display most of the time and only occasionally glances at screen number two. In that case, a stacking monitor stand, which mounts the two monitors in a single column, might be useful. Craning your neck to look up isn’t great, ergonomically speaking, but if you only look at that second monitor every once in a while, it may lead to a net reduction in strain.

If you want to set up a vertical stack, we recommend a desktop mount like the Hemudu HT05B-002, rather than a desk-mounted one. With a vertical setup, you’re putting a lot more stress on the stand arm, and a flat stand handles that extra weight better. The HT05B-002 can handle two 34-inch, 44-lb. screens. It features removable VESA plates for easy installation as well. A wide base limits your desk real estate gains, but you can rest easy knowing that the stand will support your monitors’ weight(s). It’s a small consolation, but the feet under the base raise up enough to fit some of your other cabling underneath.

Best premium: Ergotron HX Desk Dual Monitor Arm

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Buy it used or refurbished: eBay

Why it made the cut: If you’re willing to pay a premium for a reliable brand, the Ergotron HX is as sturdy as they come.

Specs

• Mount type: Desk-mounted
• Compatible VESA mount sizes: 75mm x 75mm, 100mm x 100mm (More available with optional bracket adapter kit)
• Adjustment mechanism: Gas-spring arms/free moving
• Weight range: 35 lbs per arm
• Display size range: Up to 32-inch
• Available colors: White, Silver, Black

Pros

• Killer looks
• 15-year warranty
• A trusted name in ergonomics

Cons

• Very expensive

It’s easy to find a monitor arm for under $100, but they’re almost always a gamble. You’re buying a relatively untested design from a brand with little to no reputation, which can be a risky proposition with a dual-monitor stand that holds and protects two pieces of equipment that cost hundreds or even thousands of dollars. If you have a pair of very expensive displays, you may want to consider spending a similarly luxurious amount on your stand. 

Ergotron is one of the oldest and most reliable names in the monitor stand game, and its HX dual-monitor arm is a deluxe desk-mounted stand. It has some of the flourishes from our other top picks, including a 15-year warranty and detachable VESA mounts for easy mounting. It also features a unique handlebar beneath the screens that allows you to adjust both displays at once. Those things are all just gravy, though. In this case, you’re spending a lot of extra money on the peace of mind that comes with buying a trusted luxury brand.

Best budget: VIVO Dual Monitor Desk Mount

SEE IT

Buy it used or refurbished: eBay

Why it made the cut: VIVO managed to make its dual-monitor stand comparable to more expensive models without many compromises.

Specs

• Mount type: Desk
• Compatible VESA mount sizes: Gas-spring arms/free moving
• Adjustment mechanism: 75mm x 75mm, 100mm x 100mm
• Weight range: up to 22lb per arm
• Display size range: 13-30 inches
• Available colors: Black, White

Pros

• Gives you a fair amount of control over your monitors
• Won’t take up a lot of room on your desk
• Price

Cons

• No automatic height adjustment

If you’ve invested most of your home office improvement budget on your new displays, it makes sense to save a little bit on a dual-monitor stand. This model from VIVO has most of the features found in our best overall pick, but at a quarter of the price. Each monitor can be tilted and twisted individually, but you can only adjust their height by loosening and tightening a screw on the back. Both monitors have to be set at the same height, which may matter depending on the type of work you do. This stand works with monitors up to 30-inches wide, but VIVO offers a model that can handle displays up to 32 inches if necessary.

We like monitor arms that can be clamped onto a desk rather than sit on top of it because of the space savings, which is why VIVO’s is especially appealing to us. We’re also impressed that it can control monitors up to 22 pounds, which means the arms on this stand are stronger than the ones on our best overall pick. If the lack of height adjustability isn’t a dealbreaker, there’s no reason to spend more money on a dual-monitor stand.

Things to consider before buying one of the best dual-monitor stands

Even if you know exactly which dual-monitor stand or arm to buy, it helps to know a bit about the basic mechanics involved. Different stands require varying amounts of installation at setup, and not every monitor can be mounted on a third-party stand. Understanding these basics will help you pick the right stand for your displays, and ensure you’re ready to install your stand (or call someone who can.)

Why should I use a dual-monitor stand?

There are many reasons to mount your monitors, ranging from purely cosmetic to enabling better ergonomics. The stands with PC monitors vary widely in construction quality, appearance, and features. Some stands take up tons of desk space without offering any additional utility. Others may not allow you to adjust them properly, forcing you to twist or crane your neck to look at them, which could lead to long-term strain. And some of them may just look ugly. When you buy a monitor for its great specs, which you should, it potentially opens the door for you to end up with a huge, ugly stand that gives you a sore neck. Luckily, most monitors allow you to remove the actual display from its stand and mount them on a third-party stand. 

A monitor stand, whether it sits on your desk, clamps on at edge of it, or bolts onto the wall behind it, can solve all of these issues at once, giving you the ability to place your monitor exactly where you want it, reclaiming your desk space for more useful tools, and swapping out what may be garish design for something more subtle and clean.

Stand, clamp, or wall mount?

When moving to a dual-monitor stand, you must choose between a conventional desktop form factor, a clamping desk-mounted design, or a wall-mounted one. Often, picking one versus another comes down to what kind of desk you have, how important it is to reclaim desk space, and the likelihood that you’ll need to move your setup.

If you have a flat desk with an edge or lip, we like clamping monitor stands that clamp to the rear edge of your desk. They’re sturdy, highly adjustable, and easy to install or remove without damaging the desk. (Some offer an option to drill a hole into your desk as an anchor, but it isn’t necessarily mandatory.)

That said, if you have a glass desk, an executive-style desk, or something with lots of cable guides built into the back, a clamp might not be a good fit. In most cases, there’s just no spot to install the clamp. With glass, it could literally shatter the desk. In those cases, a desktop stand makes more sense. Though you won’t get as much space back, a desktop with a dual-monitor stand still consolidates two screens onto a single stand, reclaiming some desk real estate. Also, desktop stands are very sturdy, so it makes sense to use them for larger, heavier screens.

Finally, there’s the wall mount. Whether you use a set of monitor arms or a bracket similar to what you’d use when mounting a TV, the wall mount is an extremely sturdy choice but requires serious installation. To install it, you’ll need to find a stud, drill some holes, and bolt your monitor stand to your wall. Once you install it, your monitor stand isn’t going anywhere, which means your desk setup isn’t going anywhere, either. That lack of flexibility makes it a very niche choice. You don’t want to have to spackle and repaint your walls every time you think your desk would look better over by the window.

Before you buy: Make sure all your monitors have VESA mounts

If you peek around the back of most computer monitors, you’ll notice that the stand for your display probably attaches via four screws in a square configuration. This is a standard configuration maintained by the Video Electronics Standards Association, commonly known as VESA, meant to make stands as close to universal as possible so users can buy new stands easily. 

VESA mounts can come in many sizes, but most PC monitors fall into one of two options, 75mm x 75mm or 100mm x 100 mm. That makes everyone’s life easier: All of our picks support both sizes, as should most third-party monitor stands of any shape and size. That said, you should still double-check your monitors’ specs to see VESA mount sizes you’ll need before buying a dual-monitor stand, if only to make sure that your monitor can be mounted at all. Some very cheap monitors (and a few very expensive ones) build their monitors permanently attached to their stands.

Double-check the weight of both of your displays

Monitors are heavy and expensive. Before mounting them, you should ensure your stand can support their weight. Make sure that your monitors are within the stands’ specified weight limit—don’t risk going above or below whatever limits the manufacturer sets. Most monitor manufacturers include the weight of the displays both with and without stands on their product pages. You have a little wiggle room on the size of the monitor, but consider the weight tolerances to be inviolable laws of nature in this case, or risk breaking hundreds or even thousands of dollars worth of monitors.

FAQs

Final thoughts on the best dual-monitor stands

• Best overall: Mount-It! (MI-1772) Dual Monitor Arm
• Best desk-mounted: Ergotron LX Dual Monitor Arm
• Best wall-mounted: Mountup Dual Monitor Wall Mount
• Best freestanding: ErGear Freestanding Dual Monitor Stand
• Best vertical: Hemudu HT05B-002 Dual Monitor Stand
• Best premium: Ergotron HX Desk Dual Monitor Arm
• Best budget: VIVO Dual Monitor Desk Mount

With so many options for mounting your monitors and such a wide range of prices, the best dual-monitor stands are a very affordable and useful upgrade for anyone using two monitors. Whether you’re rocking one display in landscape mode and one in portrait mode, pairing an ultrawide monitor with a standard one, mounting to a desk or a wall, there are dynamic stands for every type of home setup.

Why trust us

Popular Science started writing about technology more than 150 years ago. There was no such thing as “gadget writing” when we published our first issue in 1872, but if there was, our mission to demystify the world of innovation for everyday readers means we would have been all over it. Here in the present, PopSci is fully committed to helping readers navigate the increasingly intimidating array of devices on the market right now.

Our writers and editors have combined decades of experience covering and reviewing consumer electronics. We each have our own obsessive specialties—from high-end audio to video games to cameras and beyond—but when we’re reviewing devices outside of our immediate wheelhouses, we do our best to seek out trustworthy voices and opinions to help guide people to the very best recommendations. We know we don’t know everything, but we’re excited to live through the analysis paralysis that internet shopping can spur so readers don’t have to.

The post The best dual-monitor stands of 2023 appeared first on Popular Science.

Articles may contain affiliate links which enable us to share in the revenue of any purchases made.

If you’re an Apple user, you probably have an iCloud account and several devices filled with your personal information. Whenever high-profile data leaks and hacks hit the headlines, you may think that Apple’s known dedication to security will keep you safe, but that’s no reason to get complacent. There’s plenty you can do on your own to ensure it’s extra-hard for people to snatch up your data.

Once you’ve taken some time to enable two-factor authentication, strengthen your passwords, and work through the security tips listed below, you may want to stay in the same headspace and continue with other important accounts. For starters, check out our guides to locking down your Facebook and Google accounts.

Apple security basics

You should be putting up strong barriers at every door into your Apple world. That means a long, unique password on your MacBook, a lengthy PIN on your iPhone, and a long, unique password for your iCloud account. Passwords should contain a mix of lowercase and uppercase letters, plus special characters and numbers, to make them as difficult to crack as possible. (And no, “Passw0rd!” isn’t good enough.) Don’t base your passwords on your address, birthday, or pet’s name, either—a savvy attacker might research this information in order to get past your defenses. Finally, avoid using the same password for both your Mac and iCloud. That way, even if one gets cracked, the other still has some protection.

[Related: All the ways you can customize your iPhone lock screen]

One of your best defenses will be your common sense. Hackers often trick people into revealing their login details, rather than running a sophisticated brute force attack. Be wary of phishing links in emails and on social media, and be suspicious of any that immediately ask you to log in with your Apple ID credentials.

When it comes to Apple device security, Apple is your best ally. Its operating systems (macOS, iOS, and iPadOS) all encrypt data by default. This means nothing can be pulled from your iPhone, iPad, or MacBook without the right password or PIN code.

Enable Apple’s two-factor authentication feature

Apple accounts can be better protected with two-factor authentication (TFA). This feature is available for most major online accounts and means that entering your account will require an extra code beyond your username and password.

In the case of Apple’s two-factor authentication, attempting to log in will trigger a message sent to your phone number or a code that displays on another device associated with your Apple ID. For example, if you’re setting up a new iPhone, you’ll see the code on your existing MacBook.

To turn on two-factor authentication on iOS or iPadOS, open the Settings app and tap your name at the top of the screen. Then choose Password & Security to find the two-factor authentication option. On macOS Ventura or later, click the Apple menu, head to System Settings, and click your name. Then click Sign-In & Security and hit Turn On next to Two-Factor Authentication. Follow the instructions to set everything up.

[Related: 7 sweet new features in macOS Ventura]

If you’re using macOS Monterey or an older version of Apple’s operating system, you’ll find the TFA settings by opening the Apple menu, choosing System Preferences, selecting Apple ID followed by Password & Security, and turning the feature on from that screen.

Once you’ve logged into a device with your Apple ID, password, and TFA code, that device will be marked as trusted, which means you won’t need to log in using TFA again. It’s therefore important that you do have passwords, PIN codes, and other types of protection on your computers and phones to prevent unauthorized access.

Manage Apple security in your web browser

To configure other parts of your security setup, open your Apple ID account page in a web browser. Make sure your registered email addresses and trusted phone numbers are up to date and secure, because you might need them if you ever lose access to your account.

Under the Devices heading (in the menu on the left), you can see the iPhones, iPads, and computers associated with your account. Use this opportunity to remove any devices you no longer use or don’t recognize. It’s a good idea to check this list fairly regularly, just in case your account has been compromised or you’re signed in somewhere you shouldn’t be.

Any web browser on any computer will also let you access the iCloud suite of web apps and services. If you’re on a public computer or a machine you share with others, be sure to sign out after you’ve finished. Some browsers may ask to remember your password. You can allow this on your personal computer, but make sure that something else will prevent a guest from accessing the browser. For example, set up a user account password for getting into the operating system.

When you’re on iCloud.com, you can also sign out of all browsers where you’re currently signed in. To do this, click your Apple ID avatar in the top right corner, hit iCloud Settings, select Sign Out Of All Browsers, and click Sign Out. This way, you’ll ensure no one’s using your iCloud account with any other browser except the one you have open.

Other Apple security tips

The app stores Apple has built into iOS, iPadOS, and macOS do a very good job of keeping you safe from dangerous software and viruses. On your phone or tablet, you shouldn’t have to install anything from outside the iOS App Store. On your computer, however, you may need to venture outside the walls of the macOS App Store every now and again. If you do, read user reviews and web write-ups to double-check the safety of any program you install.

As for your devices’ physical security, you definitely want to hope for the best, but plan for the worst. So take the time now to consider what you’ll do if, despite all your precautions, your iPhone, iPad, or computer are compromised. We recommend turning on the Find My feature on your devices. This will let you locate and remotely wipe your device via the web if it falls into the wrong hands, but if you’ve simply lost your tech inside your own home, you can use Find My to get it to play a sound.

On iOS or iPadOS, tap your name in the settings to find the Find My app, and on macOS Ventura or later navigate through Apple menu > System Settings > Privacy & Security > Location Services > Find My. If you’re using macOS Monterey or earlier, you’ll need Apple menu > System Preferences > Apple ID > iCloud > Find My Mac > Allow.

[Related: How to turn off your location on an iPhone]

Meanwhile, if you’ve gone all-in with your Apple products and got yourself an Apple Watch, you can use the wearable gadget as a secure way to unlock macOS, saving you the trouble of typing out a password each time. To set up the feature on macOS Ventura or later, open the Apple menu, click System Settings, hit Login Password, and choose Use Apple Watch to unlock apps and your Mac. On macOS Monterey or older, work through Apple menu > System Preferences > Security & Privacy > General to find the same Apple Watch unlock setting.

This story has been updated. It was originally published in 2017.

The post It’s a great day to secure your Apple and iCloud accounts appeared first on Popular Science.

Articles may contain affiliate links which enable us to share in the revenue of any purchases made.

Internet access, whether wired or wireless, has become one of the most precious commodities of our time. But that leaves us singularly unprepared when we lose that access—such as when we travel to the signal-free middle of nowhere or a storm knocks out power to our home router. There are plenty of ways you can avoid being completely cut off from your work and entertainment, though, and using Google Chrome offline is one of them.

The catch, however, is that you’ll have to set up offline access before your internet connection dies. We recommend activating the settings below as you read this article, so you don’t forget and regret it later. When you’re done, consider poking around the settings within your other most-used programs to see what offline features they offer, or download some of the best offline apps. Then, no matter what type of computer you’re on, Chromebook or not, you won’t have to completely give up when those WiFi bars disappear.

Access Gmail offline

If you use Gmail in your browser, you can get into your inbox without a web connection. While you’re still online, simply click the cog icon in the top right, select See all settings, open the Offline tab, and check the box next to Enable offline mail. Doing so will sync recent emails to your computer’s hard drive. Unfortunately, this function can’t make new emails magically appear when your internet is down. But it will let you browse through messages you’ve already cached, and compose new replies that Gmail will automatically send when you get back online.

Keep working

Google Drive and the three online apps within it—Docs, Sheets, and Slides—have an offline mode you can activate when there’s no internet available. You’ll need to set it up before you lose your web connection: From the main Google Drive interface, click the cog icon in the top right, followed by Settings, and finally tick the box under Offline.

This will sync your recent documents, spreadsheets, and presentations to the local storage on your hard drive. It will let you create new documents and edit existing ones in your Drive account, although you won’t be able to access big files like videos and music (unless you download them separately first). Offline Chrome will save all your changes to disk, just as they would normally be saved to the web. Once your browser detects an internet connection again, it will sync everything to bring your files back up to date.

Check your schedule

Beyond Gmail and Google Drive, Google has made most of its web apps work offline—including Google Calendar. You can’t create new events when you’re offline, but you can browse your schedule and respond to invitations. Google Calendar will send those responses when you’re back online.

Stay entertained

It doesn’t matter whether your favorite music or video streaming service works offline—Chrome can play downloaded files in many popular formats, including MP3 tracks and MP4 movies. So as long as you saved your preferred entertainment options to your device ahead of time, you can rock out or kick back no matter what your internet connection looks like. Just drag a file from your hard drive into an empty Chrome window, and it will start to play.

If you’re looking for a place to start, the platforms you use want to keep you engaged and are more than willing to help. Both Spotify and Netflix, for example, have detailed instructions for how you can access their content without internet access. Once you’re all stocked up, you can enjoy accessing the files via Chrome.

Catch up on your reading

Losing your internet connection gives you a great opportunity to catch up on all that reading you’ve been meaning to get around to. But if all that reading happens to be on the web, you’re stuck. The free Pocket Chrome extension can help. Open an article that you’d like to read in Chrome, and Pocket will let you save it for later perusal, when you have more time to do so.

Play games

You can even enjoy certain online games while Chrome’s offline. From the physics-based puzzler Cut the Rope to the all-time classic FreeCell Solitaire, you should be able to find something to while away the time until the internet returns. As long as install your favorite games while you still have internet access, you’ll be good to go.

The post 6 ways you can use Google Chrome offline appeared first on Popular Science.

Articles may contain affiliate links which enable us to share in the revenue of any purchases made.

How many of the apps on your phone are you actually using on a regular basis? It’s not uncommon to have a bunch of apps you installed and eventually forgot about, each of them taking up precious space on your device and making it more difficult to find the tools you actually want to use.

Apple and Google know about their users’ struggles with unused apps, and they’ve built features into iOS and Android to try and handle it. You should know how your phone’s operating system handles forgotten apps behind the scenes, how these features benefit you, and how you can disable them if you want to.

How to offload unused apps on iOS

Apple’s iPhones have a feature called Offload Unused Apps that can help you with your app-hoarding problem, and it’s been around since iOS 11 launched in 2017. It’s sort of a middle ground between having an app installed and uninstalled: The bulk of the app is gone, but data and documents relating to it—like your settings and any files you’ve created in it—remain on your phone. The app icon will also stay on your home screen, with a small arrow next to its name, and you can fully reinstall it by tapping this icon.

This feature is off by default, but you can enable it by opening the Settings app and selecting General, iPhone Storage, and Enable next to the Offload Unused Apps heading. It will then run automatically, so you might notice apps you haven’t opened in a while being offloaded in the background without any input from you. You can follow the same steps to turn the feature off.

[Related: All the ways iOS lets you edit your lock screen]

On the iPhone storage screen, you’ll see how much space you can free up by offloading apps, but Apple doesn’t offer a whole lot of detail about how this works—how long an app has to remain unused for to qualify, for example, or whether your iPhone starts offloading apps once you reach a threshold of remaining storage. You’ll have to try it to see if you like it, but remember that you can easily restore offloaded apps if it isn’t for you.

If you don’t want iOS to automatically offload apps, you can do so manually and individually whenever you want. From the same iPhone Storage screen in Settings, scroll down to the app you want to offload and tap on it. Then choose Offload App on the next screen to partially remove it from your phone. The same screen will let you reinstall the app if and when you need to, or delete it entirely.

Offloading unused apps on Android

Android’s built-in feature for managing unused apps is called Auto Archive. It’s still relatively new, and it works a lot like the offloading iOS does: Auto Archive will free up to nearly 60 percent of an app’s storage space, without removing the app itself or your data from the device, Google says. After being archived, the app will still be there, but a lot of its data and files will have been removed until you need it.

Auto Archive isn’t enabled by default, but Android will prompt you to turn the feature on if you try to install an app and there’s not enough room left on your phone. If this happens, tap Turn on to enable Auto Archive and install the app, or No thanks if you want to try to clear some space manually.

[Related: 9 hidden Android features you’re missing out on]

You can also enable Auto Archive from the Play Store app on your phone: Tap your Google account avatar (top right), then choose Settings and General to find the Automatically archive apps toggle switch. Even when this is on, the process only kicks in when your device starts to run low on available storage.

Google isn’t specific about which apps it archives first, but “infrequently used apps” are apparently first in line. There’s no option to manually archive individual apps, as there is on iOS, but you can wipe all the data stored by an app. To do so, open Settings and head to Apps, tap on an app, choose Storage and cache, and hit Clear storage. Depending on the app, the data you remove could include messages, emails, or playlists that have been synced to your phone.

The post One quick way to automatically save space on your phone appeared first on Popular Science.

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Most modern homes have quite a few WiFi-connected gadgets trying to access the web at the same time. This usually results in strained broadband connections, especially when it comes to demanding activities like online gaming or video streaming. 

To help you manage the load, some routers (like those manufactured by Google, Netgear, Eero, and many others) offer a feature called Quality of Service (QoS). In simple terms, it lets you prioritize certain devices and types of traffic on your WiFi network, so they’re first in line for a high-speed connection whenever bandwidth becomes limited. 

Your router manufacturer may give it a different name, but a quick dig into the manual or an online search should tell you whether or not your particular device offers QoS. If it does, it’s worth getting familiar with the feature and what it can do, as prioritizing devices on your WiFi network can help reduce buffering times and avoid dropped connections when it’s most important.

What is Quality of Service, and how does it work?

The term “quality of service” has been around for decades, and it applies to all kinds of networks. When used in relation to your home’s WiFi, it means marking certain devices or types of activity as being more important than others. Whenever your router is chopping up your WiFi into individual slices, these marked gadgets and apps get first dibs.

Imagining pie slices is one way to think about QoS. Without it, everything connected to your router gets a similarly sized slice: Your PlayStation 5, the laptop the kids are using, the smart TV in the living room, and so on. When you enable QoS, you can give out bigger slices to that important Zoom call. Consequently, less important tasks, like those Windows updates downloading in the background, get smaller slices.

That said, using QoS to prioritize devices on your WiFi network doesn’t necessarily guarantee that those gadgets will always get a healthy, robust internet connection. It also doesn’t mean that the less important hardware on your network will slow to a crawl. A lot of what actually happens depends on the internet speed in your home.

[Related: 6 router settings you should change right now]

Video calls, online gaming, and streaming video tend to be first in line when you enable QoS. Other online tasks, from checking email to downloading updates, usually get reduced priority. 

Ultimately, how you use QoS is up to you, but your router will determine what type of control you get and how much. Some routers let you prioritize certain devices, such as gaming consoles, while others let you prioritize types of internet traffic, such as video calls. Some let you do both. If you’re shopping for a router upgrade, this is definitely a spec you should look out for.

If you have a Google Nest Wi-Fi mesh networking setup at home, for example, you can open up the Google Home app on your phone, tap Favorites, then Wifi, and choose Devices to see a list of the gadgets using your network. Select the device you want to prioritize, tap Prioritize device, decide how long you want it to receive VIP treatment, and hit Save to finish. Keep in mind that you can only give priority to one device at a time.

You can also use the Google Home app to choose the types of activity you want the network to put first. First, tap Wi-Fi, hit the cog icon to open Settings, and choose Preferred activities to tell the network what to prioritize. Your choices will include Video conferencing and Gaming, and the router will continue to give your picks bigger slices of the WiFi pie until you turn them off again.

[Related: What to do when your device won’t connect to WiFi]

If you’ve got a Netgear router, on the other hand, you’ll need to open a web browser, head to routerlogin.com, and log in using your router’s admin credentials (check the documentation that came with the router if you’re not sure what these are). From there, head to Advanced, Setup, and QoS setup to start making some changes.

Pick Upstream QoS, then Setup QoS rule, and finally Add Priority Rule. You can choose Online Gaming to make sure your games stay as lag-free as possible, Applications to prioritize a particular web app, Ethernet LAN port to specify a device connected to a router port, or MAC Address to single out a device hooked up to the network via WiFi.

This story has been updated. It was originally published in 2021.

The post How to give more WiFi to the devices that need it the most appeared first on Popular Science.

Articles may contain affiliate links which enable us to share in the revenue of any purchases made.

Gaming might not be the primary reason you bought your Apple TV 4K box, but it’s a nice extra benefit—there’s a huge selection of games you can play on the device.

The main advantage of doing this is that the connected TV screen is much larger than the one on your iPhone or iPad, and if you’ve already bought games on these mobile devices, you won’t have to pay again to play them on the Apple TV 4K.

For more advanced and involved gameplay, you can even hook up a Bluetooth controller, giving you a true console-like experience, even if the selection of games doesn’t quite match the top-tier titles on the PlayStation 5 and Xbox Series X/S.

Getting started

For starters, you need a physical Apple TV 4K device to play games on a connected television. That means this article doesn’t apply to the Apple TV app you might have on your smart TV, or on a streaming dongle you’ve connected to it. The Apple TV app is for movies and shows only, while the Apple TV 4K box is for movies, shows, music, photos, and games.

Your Apple TV 4K box is already set up and ready to play games—though it’s always worth checking that you’re running the very latest tvOS software, which you can do through Settings > System > Software Updates > Update Software. When up to date, you’ll have the latest bug fixes and performance optimizations installed, so the games you pick should run as smoothly as possible.

It’s also worth checking that the Apple TV 4K is outputting video at the best possible quality: 4K resolution, with HDR, at a 60 hertz refresh rate. You can do this via Settings > Video and Audio > Format, though the available formats you see will depend on the TV you’ve connected your Apple box to.

How to find games for the Apple TV 4K

You shouldn’t have any trouble finding games to play: Open the App Store (the icon showing a white “A” on a blue background) from the home screen, then scroll across to Games to see what’s available. The store will only show you games that will work on the Apple TV 4K, so there’s no danger of installing something that’s incompatible. Scroll across to Purchased to see games you’ve bought and installed on other Apple devices.

If you subscribe to Apple Arcade for $4.99 a month, you get access to an additional pool of more than 200 games. To find them, you can switch to the Arcade tab in the App Store or use the Apple Arcade shortcut on the home screen (an icon showing a white joystick on a red background). Select any game to see details about it, including the category it’s in and the age rating attached to it.

[Related: 14 tips for your Apple TV 4K]

Because your Apple TV 4K box is connected to a display far bigger than the one on your smartphone or tablet, the games that work best will be those that make full use of that extra screen space. If you need inspiration, the games we’ve enjoyed on the Apple TV 4K include the endless scroller Alto’s Odyssey ($4.99), the addictive puzzler Donut County ($4.99), and the classic car-dodging adventure Crossy Road (free with in-app purchases).

How to add a game controller to the Apple TV 4K

As you make your way around the App Store and Apple Arcade portal, you’ll notice certain games say a controller is required, others say a controller is optional, and some don’t say anything at all. For simple single-tap games like the aforementioned Alto’s Odyssey, for example, you can play using just the Apple TV 4K remote.

For more advanced titles, you’ll need to connect a controller like the one you might use on your PS5 or Xbox Series X. Just about any standard gamepad will do, as long as it supports Bluetooth—including the ones that came with your PlayStation or Xbox. If you’re going to buy one, though, make sure it supports the Apple TV 4K.

To connect the controller, you’ll need to make sure your controller is in pairing mode (its instructions or a quick web search will tell you how to do this if you’re not sure), then go to Settings > Remotes and Devices > Bluetooth. The controller should appear on this list, but if not, follow the How to Pair Game Controllers link for extra help.

Play Apple TV 4K games from an iPhone, iPad, or Mac

If you prefer playing a game on your iPhone or iPad, but still want to take advantage of the larger screen your Apple TV 4K is connected to, you can beam them over from your mobile device—as long as everything’s on the same WiFi network. This uses Apple’s AirPlay protocol for streaming video and audio, which is supported by most Apple devices—it’s not quick enough for super-fast gameplay, but it works fine for slower-paced games.

On the iPhone or iPad you’re using, swipe down from the top right corner of the screen to bring up the Control Center, then tap the Screen Mirroring icon (two overlapping rectangles). Choose your Apple TV 4K from the list, and the display will be duplicated on your TV. This is a good way to play games that aren’t officially supported by the Apple TV 4K, and you can always add a controller to your iPhone or iPad too.

[Related: 24 iPhone settings that feel like secrets]

If you’re on a Mac, click the Control Center icon on the menu bar (it looks like two toggle switches), choose Screen Mirroring, and select the Apple TV 4K box you want to connect to. Click Screen Mirroring again and choose Use As Separate Display to have the Apple TV 4K act as a second monitor, where you can display any games that can run on your Mac, while still controlling them with your computer. Click Screen Mirroring and the name of the Apple TV 4K to break the connection.

The post Your Apple TV 4K is secretly good for video games appeared first on Popular Science.

Articles may contain affiliate links which enable us to share in the revenue of any purchases made.

Despite being the central hub for most of our work, email can be a real productivity killer. Everyone is vying for your attention at all hours of the day, and that little unread icon taunts you until you give in and re-open your inbox to see what’s happening. This, of course, interrupts the flow of your actual job.

I’m a slave to the notification icon as much as anyone. In an ideal world, I’d learn to keep pushing forward and deal with email when I actually have time between other tasks. But that’s not as easy as it sounds. So instead of changing my own behavior, I’ve learned some Gmail tricks that will help me spend less time emailing and more time working.

Pause your Gmail inbox to stop the barrage of notifications

Yes, you could just close your email tab, but chances are you actually need access to some messages for work. In that case, you need a Gmail add-on called Inbox Pause. Install the extension in your browser, and you’ll see a big Pause button on Gmail’s left sidebar—click it whenever you need to stop incoming messages. Don’t worry, you won’t miss anything, and you can choose to let certain senders through if you’re expecting something urgent.

[Related: 9 advanced Gmail searches that will dig up stuff you never knew you missed]

If you’d rather not install a third-party extension for this job, there are some other workarounds that may help. If you only need access to old messages and would like to prevent any online distractions, you can use Gmail offline, for example. Just click the cog icon in the top right corner of your screen, hit See all settings, and select the Offline tab. There, check the box next to Enable offline mail and finish with Save Changes. This feature will let you view your email even when you’re completely disconnected from the web. (Of course, this only works if you don’t need the rest of the internet for your work).

You could also set up your Gmail account using a third-party email client like Thunderbird or Apple Mail. This will allow you to open the app and put it in offline mode whenever you want some peace, so you can keep using the web while your email stays frozen. Just head to Gmail’s Settings, go to the Forwarding and POP/IMAP tab, find IMAP access, and check the box next to Enable IMAP. This will allow those desktop programs to access your email. 

Snooze unimportant emails for later

Despite the advice of productivity experts, my inbox doubles as a to-do list. (Hey, I’m not the only one.) It just works for me: unread emails act as a constant reminder that something requires action.

Not all of these tasks require an immediate response, though, and having them sit unread in my inbox nags at me. Plus, they make it harder to see the urgent stuff that’s mixed in. For that, Gmail’s Snooze button has become my new best friend: on desktop, hover over the message in question and click the little clock icon that appears to the right, or right-click on an email and select Snooze. On mobile, slide an unopened message to the left or right, depending on your personal configuration.

Snoozing banishes an email from your inbox until a time you specify—say, tomorrow morning when you have free time to schedule an appointment with the mechanic. That way, you can keep things clean and anxiety-free while you take care of what’s really important at the moment.

Schedule emails to send at the most opportune time

Dealing with email as it comes in is rarely a productive use of your time. It’s better to batch a few email sessions—say, once every couple of hours—and knock everything out in a single chunk. That way, you aren’t constantly interrupting your momentum with an unrelated task.

The problem is, it’s hard to time those inbox sessions perfectly for every email. Gmail’s Schedule button lets you write the email when you want and schedule it to send later—so it arrives precisely when you mean it to.

Once you’ve written your email and chosen its recipient, click the downward arrow to the right of the Send button, then hit Schedule send. Gmail will suggest three predetermined times for you, including tomorrow afternoon and Monday morning. If none of those work, you can click Pick a time & date, and use the emerging calendar to pick the exact moment you want your message to hit its destination. Finish by clicking Schedule send. On the Gmail app, the process is similar: just tap the three dots in the top right corner of your screen and select Schedule send. 

Your scheduled messages will sit and wait in the main Gmail sidebar within the Scheduled folder. If you need to make changes or unschedule any of them, you can find them all there. 

Stop wasting your time on typing

It may seem silly to say that “writing email is a waste of time,” but in the age of automation, it’s true. Gmail has a number of features that can help you draft messages more quickly, so you can get back to doing actual work.

Templates have been around for ages, though they used to be known as “canned responses.” These allow you to save certain blocks of text that you use often and insert them into any email with a few clicks. For example, you could use them to enter your address, or ship off a form response to a question you get asked every day.

If you have a Google Workspace account (through your employer or education institution, for example), you can create a template by opening a new message, typing the text you want to save, and clicking the three dots in the bottom right corner of your message. On the emerging menu, hover over Templates and choose Save draft as template. Then, when crafting a reply to an email, you can go to that same menu to insert text from any template—you’ll be able to recognize them by the subject line.

Smart Compose on Gmail is another useful feature, and it’s available for all users. This tool will predict what it thinks you’re about to type and shows the rest of the sentence in gray text. You can press Tab to complete the prediction, and keep on typing. If you disabled this feature—I get it, it’s distracting—you should give it another shot. Once you get used to it, it’s amazing how quickly you can breeze through some messages. If you want to skip the typing altogether, you can choose one of Gmail’s response chips, which you may see when replying to an email. These AI-generated options might be all you need, so you can choose one of three mostly innocuous phrases like “That sounds good!” or “Have a great weekend too!” and hit Send.  

Google recently integrated its AI platform, Bard, into the web version of Gmail. If you signed up for Google Workspace Labs, you can enable Duet AI—an experimental AI-email composer that will write your message for you after you give it a prompt. To sign up, you can visit the Google Labs website and choose to join the Workspace Lab. 

Once you do, a multicolor navigation bar will appear when you compose new Gmail messages —click Help me write to get started, and then write a prompt. You can try anything, like “compose a happy holidays message for a potential client,” or “an email apologizing to my kid’s teacher after they bit the classroom pet.” Hit Create to see the results. You can also ask Duet AI to give you a second draft by clicking Recreate, or request changes—click Refine and then choose to Formalize, Elaborate, or Shorten. When you see something you like, click Insert to add the message to the body text. Remember that AI takes a lot of creative and factual liberties, so you’ll need to make sure everything looks good and accurate before you hit Send. 

Finally, you can use Gmail’s multiple signatures feature to switch between different sign-offs based on who you’re emailing. Just go to Settings, and under General, scroll down to Signature and click Create new. Once you have everything you need, click the pen icon in a Compose window to switch between them.

Mute distracting email threads

I have friends and family that like to start long, multi-person email threads sharing silly jokes, political debates, or other time-wasting nonsense. Unfortunately, there’s no way to leave a thread completely without nagging someone to move you to BCC. But Gmail offers the next-best thing: the Mute feature, which prevents the thread from showing up in your inbox when new messages arrive.

[Related: Gmail’s new email layouts will give a newsletter vibe to all your messages]

To mute a thread in Gmail, right-click on it and choose Mute—that’s it. Further messages will still be marked as unread, but they’ll skip the inbox altogether and enter the bowels of your All Mail tab, never to be seen unless you search for them. That way, you can catch up on those threads later, if you want—and you can even unmute them if they become relevant.

This story has been updated. It was originally published in 2020. 

The post 9 Gmail features to get you out of your inbox and back to work appeared first on Popular Science.

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Reacting to something online is way more fun if there’s an animation involved. Apple seems to understand this, as it included hand gesture reactions in macOS Sonoma. They work on FaceTime, of course, but also on some other video call platforms, including Google Meet, Zoom, and Microsoft Teams. 

Now, if you have a compatible Mac, you’ll be able to celebrate your colleague’s promotion with a dramatic firework effect, or send digital hearts to your significant other without clicking or tapping anything. 

Check if your computer is compatible 

There are two system requirements you’ll need to play around with macOS’s new hand gesture reactions, and you can use one menu to confirm you have both. 

Animated hand gestures are possible thanks to the processing power of Apple’s silicon chips, so you’ll need to start by seeing if you have the right hardware. Click the Apple icon in the top left corner of your screen, then About this Mac, and a small window will pop up. The first item is Chip—if your machine is sporting an M1 or M2, you’re good to go. 

You can use the same window to check your macOS version. If it’s Sonoma, you’re good to go. Otherwise, click More info, which will take you to Settings. There, go to General, then Software Update to have your machine scan for, download, and install newer versions of the operating system. Your computer should automatically tell you if you can upgrade to the latest version of the OS, but you can also check Apple’s official list of compatible devices. 

[Related: 6 new features in macOS Sonoma you have to try]

If your machine cannot handle macOS Sonoma and is not equipped with Apple Silicon, we’re happy to tell you that there’s still a way to enable hand gestures on your video calls: using the Continuity Camera feature. This capability is available on devices running software as old as macOS 13, and it’ll let you use your iPhone as a webcam for video calls on your computer. You will need an iPhone running at least iOS 16 and signed into the same Apple ID as your Mac machine. 

2. Activate your camera and you’ll see the Video menu button appear on the main macOS navigation bar—it’s a bright green button with a white camera. Click it and make sure Reactions is selected. This will activate the feature.

3. Back on your video call, you’ll be able to make predetermined hand gestures to trigger animated reactions. For example, give a thumbs up or a thumbs down and you’ll see a gray bubble with the relevant emoji. 

You can also use both hands to make a love gesture, and small red hearts will bubble up on top of your camera feed. 

Or generate a cool laser effect by making a rad rock ‘n’ roll gesture. Just keep in mind that this might be an offensive gesture in some cultures, so be mindful of your audience. 

Maybe release some celebratory balloons by making a peace sign. 

Beyond these, Apple has a full list of gestures you can make—it’s not long but we would not be surprised if they add more over time. 

Make marked gestures

We got the best results when making very neat gestures. For that, how you angle your hands is extremely important. For example, the rock ‘n’ roll gesture triggered the laser animation more consistently if the back or front of our wrist was facing the camera—aiming our indexes and pinkies at the camera resulted in absolutely no reaction. 

Skip the hand gestures altogether

If you like the animated reactions but are not willing to try (and fail) to trigger an effect in front of your colleagues, just skip the gestures. When on a video call, open the Video menu on the main macOS navigation bar. On the emerging menu, click the arrow next to Reactions and you’ll see a quick menu of emojis you can select—these are the same ones you can trigger with hand gestures.   

Deactivate visual effects and virtual backdrops to better showcase animated reactions

If you use a virtual backdrop or any kind of built-in visual effect on your video calls, it’ll affect how your animated hand gestures show on your camera feed. For example, if you use a blur effect to protect your privacy (or hide whatever mess is sitting behind you) the hearts, balloons or bubbles that emerge when you make a hand gesture might get caught behind the effect and look blurry or low quality. If you use a virtual backdrop, then your machine will only show the animation behind the effect’s overlay, which may not show the reaction at all or make you look, well, interesting.   

The post Hand gesture reactions are one of macOS Sonoma’s coolest new features appeared first on Popular Science.

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If you’re got smart lights set up at home, then you’ve probably played around with turning them on and off with your phone, and cycling through millions of colors. But if you have Philips Hue bulbs, you can also get them to sync with what’s on your TV screen or monitor.

So, you could have a wash of greens and blues behind your TV when watching Avatar, for example. Or your journeys through the vast world of Red Dead Redemption 2 could be accompanied by shifting colors as you move through deserts, forests, swamps, and snowy mountain ranges.

We’re assuming that you’ve already got your Philips Hue smart lights up and running at home. Then, depending on your setup and what you want, you can either use a desktop app or the Play HDMI Sync Box to have your smart lights react to your favorite content in real time.

Using the Hue Sync app

The easiest and cheapest way to sync your smart lights to your screen is to install the free Hue Sync desktop app for Windows and macOS. A caveat, though: this approach will only sync your lights to what’s on your computer, so it won’t work with your TV. Your laptop or desktop will need to be on the same WiFi network as your smart lights, so the program can see your Hue Bridge and the devices attached to it.

[Related: Find the best smart light for your home]

Download the desktop app and launch it. You’ll have two options: Help me set everything up and Search for bridge. Pick the first one if you’ve just bought your Hue lights and you’re installing them from scratch. The app will then take you step-by-step through the process of getting all the hardware connected. If your lights are already set up, select the second option.

Within a few seconds, the app should easily find the Hue Bridge and connect to it. If you haven’t already done it, turn to the Philips Hue app on your phone to set up what’s called an “entertainment area”: This is just a way of telling your Hue system which lights should be grouped together for syncing with screen content.

In the app, open the Settings tab, then go to Entertainment areas and Create area. Choose For my monitor, give the area a name, and then select the lights to include in it. The app will then prompt you to show the location of the lights within the room, so it knows how to sync them together with what’s on screen.

Once all that is done, head back to the desktop app—the entertainment area that you just created should be selected. Click on the name of the area to bring up the main syncing console: You can choose Start light sync to have the effect enabled on the selected bulbs.

There are also a few options to play around with on the app console. At the top you can choose one of four modes to determine the brightness of the lights: The ones we’re interested in here are Games (optimized for games) and Movies (optimized for video), but you can also pick Scenes to select a fixed Hue scene for your lights, or Music to have the lights sync along with the audio that’s being played.

If you pick Games or Movies, you can then control the strength of the effect: Pick from Subtle, Moderate, High, or Extreme. If the lights are changing color too often and it’s becoming distracting, choose Subtle or Moderate. The last option, Use audio for effect, means the Hue Sync desktop app will take into consideration the sounds in games and movies when choosing colors for the lights.

Based on our testing, the results are usually pretty good, though games and movies with more gradual color changes work best. You can always go back to the Hue app on your phone to tweak the entertainment area settings, as well as adjusting the options in the desktop app, to try and improve the results.

Finally in the desktop app, you can choose Settings to configure different aspects of the program, including which display is used for syncing (if you’ve got more than one), and whether or not the app starts up with your computer. It’s also possible to configure keyboard shortcuts for the desktop app from here.

Using an app can also work when syncing your smart lights to what’s on your TV—but that will only work if you have a Samsung TV from 2022 or newer. Philips Hue makes a Hue Sync TV app for these devices which you can find in the Apps section. The downside is it costs $130, but you might consider the functionality worth it for the seamless integration. The setup process is similar, but you’ll need to choose For my TV when setting up an entertainment area in the mobile app.

Using the Play HDMI Sync Box

If you have another type of TV, then you’ll need a hardware option to sync your smart lights with what’s on it. The Play HDMI Sync Box from Philips Hue is $250 and it comes with accompanying Hue Sync apps for Android and iOS. You can use this little gadget to connect up to four different HDMI sources—just keep in mind that if you’re playing on your console, you’ll need to connect the Sync Box both to your gaming device and your TV.

[Related: Best smart lights of 2023]

There’s support for Dolby Vision, HDR10+, and 4K resolutions, and the box is clever enough to recognize which source is playing and automatically switch to it. The information from the HDMI feed is beamed to your Hue Bridge at the same time as it’s showing up on screen, so your lights have a detailed map of colors to work from.

Setup is similar to the desktop app in that you need to create an entertainment area in the mobile app first. From the original Hue app on your phone go to Settings > Entertainment areas > Create area, and choose For my TV. The platform will ask you which smart lights are in the same room as your TV and where they’re positioned.

Then, from the Hue Sync app, you can turn effects on and off, switch between Video, Music, and Game modes, and adjust the strength of the effect and the brightness level in the same way as you can on the desktop app for computers. The apps also let you link the Google Assistant, Amazon’s Alexa, or Apple’s Siri for the box, so you can use voice commands to enable or disable sync and switch between modes.

The post 2 ways to sync your Philips Hue smart lights to movies, games, and music appeared first on Popular Science.

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Going incognito in your browser and favorite apps has its benefits, even though it may not be as private as you think. Also known as private mode, this feature temporarily pauses tracking of your browsing or viewing history and doesn’t save data you input, such as login credentials and personal details.

We don’t need to know your reasons, but if you need to go about your business without leaving any tracks, we can show you how to go incognito on apps like YouTube, Instagram, and Google Maps, whenever necessary.

Turn on YouTube’s incognito mode

There are good reasons you might want YouTube to remember what you’re watching. Logging the videos you’ve watched improves your recommendations and makes sure you can easily get back to that hilarious sketch clip you enjoyed several weeks ago. However, if you share your device with someone else, activating incognito mode on Google’s video platform might help you keep your watch history private. 

[Related: Why YouTube is hiding dislikes on videos]

To temporarily go incognito on YouTube’s mobile app, tap your profile picture (top right), then choose Turn on Incognito. You’ll then start browsing on a clean slate, with fresh recommendations and no viewing history. To go back to normal, tap the incognito button (top right) and select Turn off Incognito.

You won’t find an incognito mode available for YouTube on the web, but you can get the same result by simply opening the video platform in a private browsing tab. Note that if you’re a YouTube Premium subscriber, the ads will return when you’re in incognito mode.

How to go incognito on Google Maps

Going incognito on Google Maps is useful if you need to research places or plan journeys without leaving any trace, or if you don’t want your searches to affect the recommendations the app gives you about where to go.

If you’re using the mobile app, tap your profile picture (top right), then choose Turn on Incognito mode. Your personalized recommendations and quick links to places like your home address will disappear, and the app won’t save anything you do in this mode. To exit, tap the incognito mode button (top right) and hit Turn off Incognito mode.

As with YouTube, you won’t find this option built into Google Maps online, but you can just open the site inside a browser set to incognito mode instead. You can still look up information about places and get directions, but you can’t leave reviews, save places, or see your location history.

Start a private session on Spotify

Your listening history shows up in a few places on Spotify. The app shares it with friends you’ve connected with on the platform, and your recently played artists show up on your public Spotify profile.

To listen to songs without this automatic sharing and tracking, you can start a private session—Spotify’s version of going incognito. On mobile, tap Home, the cog icon, and under Privacy turn the Private Session toggle switch on. From the desktop app, click the drop-down arrow (top right) to find the switch. To end a private session, just retrace your steps and flick the switch the other way.

If you don’t turn your private session off manually, it will automatically end after 6 hours or when you restart the Spotify app.

Going incognito on Instagram

While Instagram doesn’t have an incognito mode as such, you can stop your friends from seeing when you’re actively online. Tap your profile picture (bottom right), then the menu button (top right), followed by Settings and Privacy. Select Messages and story replies, then Show activity status, and turn off the toggle switch on the next screen. On the web, click the three-line menu in the bottom left corner of the screen, then Settings, and How others can interact with you. On the next menu, toggle on the switch beside Show activity status.

[Related: Why the web version of Instagram is better than the app]

This also means that you won’t be able to see other people’s Instagram activity status in places like the direct message conversation list, so keep that in mind. Retrace your steps and switch Show activity status back to on to go back to normal.

There’s not much you can do on Instagram without logging in, so opening your account in an incognito browser window won’t prevent the platform from tracking what you’re seeing. But if you use one to open direct links to profile pictures and individual posts, your browsing will stay private. 

Clean your viewing history on video streaming apps

Unfortunately, no video streaming service offers an incognito mode, as profiles are only meant for individual use. However, you can edit your viewing history and remove items if necessary. 

On Netflix on the web click your profile picture (top right), then Account. Choose your profile, open Profile & Parental Controls, and then Viewing Activity. Click the hide button (on the right) to remove something from your record—you can hide individual episodes or entire shows. If you want to absolutely hide your viewing history, just select Hide all. Whatever items you remove won’t show up as recently viewed or affect your future recommendations.

[Related: The government won’t protect your internet privacy, so here’s how to do it yourself]

If you’re using Hulu on the web, scroll down the Home page to find the Continue watching section and click View all. You’ll see a tiled view of all the shows and movies you’ve played on the platform—click the three-dot menu next to an item you want out of your viewing history and choose Remove. When it comes to shows, you won’t be able to remove specific episodes, and if you’ve watched every episode of a series, it won’t appear on the list because Hulu doesn’t save a history of the movies and shows you’ve completed. 

Other video streaming apps have similar options if you delve into your viewing history in the settings. They all support profiles, so your viewing record doesn’t have to get mixed up with the habits or preferences of the rest of your family or the people you share a place with.

This story has been updated. It was originally published in 2021.

The post How to go incognito on these 6 popular apps appeared first on Popular Science.

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Coordinating locations with friends and family can be a real hassle. “I’m by a big tree,” “I’m standing on the corner,” and “My car broke down but there are no signs so just drive along I-95 for a while” simply aren’t helpful when there are multiple corners, dozens of trees, and 1,908 miles of Interstate 95.

It’s a lot easier if you use an app that lets you share your location safely and privately—without broadcasting it to the world. Apple has put tools inside iOS for sharing your location from an iPhone, and Google has done the same in Google Maps, but there are also several third-party apps that can do the job well.

At first it might seem unsettling to let other people know exactly where you are, but you’re in full control of who has this information and how long they have it for—and the next time you’re trying to meet up with someone, this can save you a whole lot of time and a whole lot of messages.

Glympse

Among the apps specifically built for location sharing, Glympse is one of the most comprehensive and competent. It’s great for quick, customized location sharing with people who might not all be using the same brand of phone or the same apps, and there are mapping tools inside the app that will help you find friends and family.

You can send location shares—called, appropriately enough, glympses—over email, text, or through other apps as well as Glympse. If the recipient is on a computer, or using a phone without Glympse, the glympse shows up in that person’s web browser instead, and only for the allotted time. You don’t even need a Glympse account to share your location.

You get full control over who you share your location with and for how long, and you can set up private groups where everyone can see where everyone else is. Another handy feature is the option to add public tags to your glympses: They work a bit like social media hashtags, and you can use them to let the wider world know that you’re at a music festival or a sports event.

Glympse is free for Android and iOS.

Life360

Life360 is aimed specifically at families, so you can keep tabs on where your kids are and make sure they’re safe. You can get alerts when they turn up at home or school, see where they are on a map, and even get alerts if they may have been involved in a crash on the road. With Tile tracker support, you can track your possessions in the app too.

The map view is the center of the Life360 app. It lets you check up on where family members are in real time, and for peace of mind there’s an SOS feature that lets anyone discreetly and quietly send an alert to their family. If your kids want a bit more privacy, they can share their general location rather than a precise spot on the map.

[Related: These smartphone settings could save your life]

You and your family can use Life360 free of charge, but you’ll get access to more features if you sign up for one of the premium accounts, which start at $15 a month. Paying for the service means 30 days rather than two days of location history, alerts for an unlimited number of locations instead of just two, and a road crash detection feature.

Life360 is free for Android and iOS, with a premium version starting at $15.

Messaging apps

Beyond standalone apps dedicated to location sharing, you’ll also find the feature built into several messaging and social media apps. If you want to temporarily share your location with a specific group of people—like when you’re on a family vacation—you might find that these apps are a better fit for you.

How to share your location on WhatsApp

In WhatsApp, tap the paperclip icon at the bottom of any one-to-one conversation or group chat, then choose Location. You can choose between sending a single message showing where you currently are, or broadcasting your live location in real time for 15 minutes, an hour, or eight hours (with the option to cancel the sharing at any time).

It’s perfect for quick and easy location sharing that you don’t want to go on indefinitely, especially as you probably already have the necessary group conversations set up inside the app for your friends, family, colleagues, and special events. Don’t worry: Your location will stay private within these group chats, or within the one-to-one conversation you’ve selected.

WhatsApp is free for Android and iOS.

How to use Snapchat’s location settings

Snapchat has a feature called Snap Map, which you can use to let your friends know where you are. No one who isn’t your friend will be able to see your location, and you can limit it to certain friends if necessary. The Snap Map will also show you public snaps posted to the Snapchat network—usually showing off a particular place or event to the world at large.

Tap the map pin (bottom left) on Snapchat’s camera screen to find the map and see where your friends are. Touch the cog icon (top right), and you can choose which friends can see where you are, or turn on ghost mode to temporarily hide your location. Your location only updates when Snapchat is open, and is removed from the map after 24 hours.

[Related: Make a Memoji that actually looks like you]

On this same screen, there’s also a Share live option: This grants specific friends the privilege of seeing where you are in real time, and you can enable it for one hour, eight hours, or until you turn it off. It’s a useful extra layer of location sharing you can enable for the people you trust the most, like your partner or your kids.

Snapchat is free or $4 a month for Android and iOS.

Share your location in Signal

The primary reason to get yourself and your friends on Signal is the security and privacy it offers: There’s end-to-end encryption, the option to use disappearing messages, and (perhaps most importantly) it’s run by a developer that isn’t interested in advertising to you or trying to keep you locked inside its own ecosystem.

While it’s not worth switching to Signal for its location-sharing features alone, it does have them, so you won’t miss out on being able to let other people know where you are at specific times. Like everything else in Signal, location sharing is handled simply and securely, and can be done within one-to-one conversations or inside group chats.

At the bottom of the relevant conversation, tap the plus button in the bottom right corner, then choose Location from the menu that pops up. You’ll then be able to confirm where you are before sharing your location—it’s shared in a one-off message with the people inside the selected chat, so your location won’t be updated in real time.

Signal is free for Android and iOS.

The post 5 location-sharing apps that aren’t run by Apple or Google appeared first on Popular Science.

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Your Samsung Galaxy phone’s lock screen is likely to be the first one you see in the morning and the last one you see at night. This is why it’s so important to set it up exactly how you want to.

Galaxy handsets come with a good selection of options and features to help you customize your lock screen, whether you want to set a new backdrop, make the clock a lot bigger, or add extra widgets for easier access to your apps.

Lock screen wallpaper and themes

Let’s start with the wallpaper. You can set separate background images for your home screens and lock screen—just press and hold on a blank part of a home screen and choose Wallpaper and style on the emerging menu.

Tap Change wallpapers to pick a new image—you can pick from photos featured by Samsung and pictures in your phone’s gallery. When you select the one you want,  you then get to choose whether you want to apply it to your lock screen, home screen, or both. Don’t worry—before you fully commit to your selection, you’ll see previews of how the backdrop will look.

[Related: Samsung Galaxy Z Flip4 review: Powerful vibes]

Back on the Wallpaper and style screen, tap Color palette to choose a color scheme for your phone’s entire interface. You can select your favorite from a list of basic hues, or pick a combination of colors based on the wallpaper you picked. Again, you’ll get a preview of how everything will look, so you can try as many as you want until you find one you like.

Instead of choosing a picture and a color scheme separately, you can go with a theme, which is a bundle of items including a wallpaper, a color scheme, and a particular icon and font style, that you can apply with a single tap. Press and hold on a blank part of a home screen, and select Themes to see your options. You’ll find free themes provided by Samsung, alongside others from third-parties, which you may or may not have to pay for. If you’re dealing with a paid theme, you’ll see the price listed next to it.

If you don’t want the trouble of changing the wallpaper regularly yourself, have your phone do it for you. After tapping Wallpaper and style and Change wallpaper, scroll down to Dynamic Lock screen. From here you can pick a collection of images (landscapes and plants, for example), and the device will automatically cycle between them every couple of weeks.

Changing lock screen elements

That’s the wallpaper and colors taken care of, but you can also edit the lock screen widgets and other elements on the display. From Settings, tap Lock screen and the next page will let you control how you unlock your phone and, if your handset supports the feature, activate the always-on display. There’s also a Roaming clock toggle switch—turn it on to see the local time at your location and at home, if you happen to be traveling in a different time zone.

Tap the Lock screen graphic and you’ll be able to change the style and size of the lock screen time and date widget. From this menu you’ll also be able to tweak the way your phone displays notification icons—as small buttons or larger bubbles, for example. Just tap on the element you want to change and the relevant options will appear.

You can also select Contact information to add your contact details to the lock screen, which can come in handy if you lose your handset and someone else picks it up, or if you’re ever involved in an emergency and someone needs to learn your identity. Galaxy phones also have shortcuts in the lower left and right corners of the lock screen, which you can easily change by tapping on the icons. You can use these shortcuts to launch utilities and apps like the camera, phone app, flashlight, voice recorder, or any other app of your choice. Tap Done when you’re finished.

[Related: Samsung Galaxy Buds2 Pro earbuds review: Riding high (fidelity)]

Back on the previous Lock screen page from Settings, tap the Widgets graphic and you’ll be able to pick which widgets show up when your phone is locked. There are a few to pick from, covering your upcoming schedule, any set alarms, the weather, and any music currently playing. Tap on Reorder at the top to change the order of the widget list.

There’s one final lock screen customization you might want to make: If you choose Notifications and then Lock screen notifications from Settings, you can set whether your phone displays notification content (like the previews of incoming messages) when your device is unlocked. If you don’t want anyone seeing something private when they glance at your locked phone, choose Hide content.

The post All the cool ways you can customize your Samsung Galaxy lock screen appeared first on Popular Science.

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Learning how to check your internet speed can come in handy if you want to make sure you’re getting your money’s worth after splurging on a fiber connection. Knowing your true download and upload speeds can also be useful if your favorite streaming platform is lagging and you need to make your case to a representative of your internet service provider (ISP).

Luckily, doing an internet speed check is easy. There are many apps and websites you can use for free, and some even let you schedule network speed tests so you can identify patterns and know if you’re actually getting what you’ve paid for.

Why does internet speed fluctuate?

Before running an internet speed test, you should know that there’s a variety of factors that can impact your WiFi speed.

Time of day

The internet experiences the most traffic between the hours of 7 p.m. and 11 p.m. when a lot of people are back home after work, probably gaming, streaming their favorite shows, and browsing the web. ISPs have a limited amount of bandwidth so they struggle to meet customer demand during these peak hours, causing a log jam that results in slower speeds. This means that to get a true picture of your max bandwidth, you should check your internet speed during off peak hours.

VPNs

While virtual private networks are great for making you anonymous on the web, the trade-off is a slower connection. To get an accurate reading, don’t forget to disable your VPN before running an internet speed test.

Network use

If you share your WiFi with a lot of people and a bunch of them are streaming movies, on video calls, or gaming, an internet speed test won’t produce accurate results. Wait until your network is seeing minimal use before you check it.

How to check your internet speed

There are several sites you can use to do an internet speed test. Most work by measuring how long it takes your network to upload and download sample files from a specified host.

Fast.com

Fast.com certainly lives up to its name by running an internet speed test automatically—zero clicks needed.

On a browser

1. Go to Fast.com and the internet speed test will begin automatically. There’s no need to click on anything at all.

2. In less than 10 seconds, Fast.com tells you how speedy your internet connection is.

On a phone

You can use Fast.com on your phone by downloading a simple app available for Android and iOS.

1. Choose what you want to measure. If you want to test your network speed, turn off your WiFi connection; if you want to test your WiFi speed, turn it on.

2. Open the Fast app and the speed test will immediately begin. After a few seconds, the app will tell you your internet download speed. Click on the Show more info if you wish to see your upload speed.

Ookla Speed Test

The Ookla site is one of the better known ways to run an internet speed test and it works on both desktop computers and mobile devices.

On a browser

1. Open your browser and head to the Ookla website. You don’t need to create an account to perform an internet speed test, but if you do, Ookla will keep a history of your results and display them in a graph. This data can be useful to compare your network’s performance over time. To create an account click Log in in the upper right corner of your screen.

2. On the site you’ll immediately see your IP and the location of one of your ISP’s servers the site chooses by default. To get the most accurate reading, you should always check your internet speed using the host that is geographically closest to you. If the one Ookla chose for you is not it, you can click on Change Server to select a different one. You might also want to run multiple tests with a variety of hosts to get a complete picture of your internet speed.

3. Once you’re satisfied with your server selection. Click on the large GO button in the middle of the screen.

4. Ookla begins with a download test (how long it takes your device to save a copy of a file on the selected server) followed by an upload test (how long it takes your device to send a file to the server).

While this is taking place, you’ll see a speedometer in the middle of the screen showing you how fast your connection is. The test takes about 30 seconds, after which the site will show your download and upload speeds. If you see a huge discrepancy between what you’re paying for and the network speeds you’re actually getting, you should contact your ISP to see if there’s a problem with your modem or router. 

On your phone

You can also use the Ookla site to check the internet speed of your smartphone’s data connection.

1. Download the Ookla Speedtest app (available for Android and iOS).

2. By default, the internet speed test will check the WiFi network if you’re connected to one. If you want to know how fast your phone’s data connection is, turn off the WiFi connection on your device.

To do so on an iPhone, go to Settings, then Wi-Fi, and tap the toggle button at the top of the screen to turn it off. On Android, tap Settings, Network & internet, and Internet. Tap the switch next to WiFi to turn it off.  

3. Unlike the browser version of Ookla, the mobile app doesn’t allow you to change the server location, so all you have left to do is hit the a GO button in the middle of the screen to check your internet speed test.

4. The app will display the current download and upload speeds as it runs the test, and give you a final report once it’s done.

Google M-Lab

Google’s internet speed test works with the company’s Measurement Lab, which seeks to provide “the largest collection of open Internet performance data on the planet”. This network speed test will not allow you to choose different hosts or create a record of your results, but it’s one of the easiest to use. This is in no small part because you don’t even need to remember its name.

1. On a desktop browser or the mobile Google app, type in Speed test into your Google search bar. 

2. As a result, Google will show you its internet speed test, with an explanation of what it entails. Before starting the test, take note of the privacy disclosure in the window, which explains that M-Lab will receive your IP address, which they will publish on their site along with all the results of tests done by them. This doesn’t include any other information about you.

3. If you’re comfortable with Google’s rules, click the blue Run speed test button. A small window will open and the speed test will begin. It takes about 30 seconds to get your results, including upload and download speeds.

TestMy.Net

If you want to understand your internet speed test within a context, then TestMy.Net is a great option. In addition to giving you your download and upload speeds, this site also tells you what the average speed is for the chosen host and for specific geographic locations, like your city, your country, and the rest of the world. This allows you to see how your connection ranks among various groups of users, helping you to determine if your internet speed is keeping up with the Joneses, topping them, or lagging behind. 

TestMy.Net will also allow you to schedule automatic speed tests for set intervals, so you can look at how your Internet connection speeds change over a set period of time.

1. On a mobile or desktop browser, go to testmy.net and choose between one of three different network speed test options: Download speed test, Upload speed test, and Automatic speed test. You can tweak different settings depending on which one you choose.

Download speed test / Upload speed test: When clicking either of these options, you’ll be able to choose between doing a regular internet speed test (click Test my download Speed or Test my upload Speed) or a Manual test size. The latter will let you choose the specific amount of data you want to upload or download during the test, which is great for if you’re trying to figure out if hauling larger amounts of data slows down your overall download speed.

Automatic speed test: Automated tests will let you check your internet speed over time or even in different places within your home. Choose this option and you’ll be able to use the drop-down menus in the middle of the screen to set the total number of tests you want to conduct and how often you want to run them—you can set them up to be as frequent as every five minutes or up to once every 24 hours. The drop-down menus on the right let you to select minimum and maximum download and upload sizes, helpful if you’re trying to determine if your internet speed changes depending on the size of the file you’re trying to send or receive. Meanwhile, the menu on the left lets you label the location of your device during the test, which is useful if you want to see how your network speed changes depending on where you are in your home.

2. Once you’ve chosen your options, select the blue button in the middle of the screen to start the test.

FAQs

The post How to check your Internet speed on your phone, a browser, and Google appeared first on Popular Science.

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Splitting the screen on your iPad can really amp up your productivity. The feature is officially called Split View and it’s available on all Apple tablets running iPadOS 13 and newer. When you activate it, you’ll have two open windows on your screen, whether that’s two completely different apps or a pair of windows for the same one. 

You probably have your own reasons for wanting to split up your screen, but it’s worth noting that Split View can be extremely helpful if you’re working in one app while getting inspiration from another, or if you’re messaging with two people at the same time. 

3. The open app will automatically move to the left to reveal your home screen. From here, select a second app to open. 

• Pro tip: You can open two iterations of one app if you want—just pick the same app when the iPad home screen appears. This will be especially easy to do with Apple apps, but not all tools support this feature. For example, you can use Procreate in Split View, but you can’t open two Procreate projects at the same time. 

4. Your apps or windows will now be side by side in a split-screen view. 

• Pro tip: Tap the three white dots at the top of any of the open apps or windows and choose Split View again to make them switch sides—pick Left split or Right split.

[Related: You should use your iPad as a second screen]

How to adjust the size of your split-screen apps on an iPad

You can only split your iPad screen evenly if you’re using your tablet in a landscape orientation. 

The size adjustment will happen automatically, as Split View will give each app or window the same amount of screen real estate by default. 

You can easily change this if, for example, one of the apps you’re using requires more space. On the black line splitting your screen in half, press the short gray line in the middle and move it to the right or left depending on which app you want to give more screen space to. 

Unfortunately, you don’t have total freedom to determine the split proportions of your screen. If you’re holding your iPad in a portrait orientation, the slider will only snap in place in increments of thirds, so your apps will be distributed in a 30-60 split (or 60-30, depending on if you want the bigger app on the top or bottom). With your iPad in a landscape orientation, the slider will stick to quarters, meaning your apps can only be distributed 50-50, 25-75, or 75-25. 

If you try giving an app less than one third (portrait) or one fourth (landscape) of the screen, the slider will automatically move to the edge of the screen, closing the app and turning your split-screen view into a full-screen view. 

How to have multiple split screens on your iPad

Each split screen acts like one open app. So just like you can have as many open apps as you want, you can have as many split screens as your heart desires. 

1. Follow the steps above to split your iPad screen. 

2. Swipe up from the bottom of your screen to go to the home screen. 

3. Open an app and split your screen again.

When you swipe and hold to see all your open apps, you’ll be able to see all your split screens in one place. Keep in mind that all of the open apps, whether they’re in Split View or full-screen mode, are indeed open and working—if you have too many of them, your iPad’s performance and battery life might suffer.  

How to turn off split screen view on the iPad

You can turn off Split View by closing one of the apps or windows. There are two ways to go about it. 

Use the three-dot menu

When Split View is active, you’ll see three white dots at the top of each open app or window. Choose the app you want to close, tap its three dots, and choose Close from the emerging menu. The remaining app will go into full-screen mode and you’ll be out of split screen. 

Slide the screen separator all the way to the edge of the screen

In Split View, press the gray line in the middle and slide it all the way to the left to close the app taking up the left side of the screen, or all the way to the right to close the app to the right. The remaining app will go into full-screen mode. 

FAQs

Q. Can I split my iPad screen horizontally?

At the moment, Split View is limited to a vertical split, meaning you can only have two apps or windows side by side, not on top of each other. This makes a split-screen iPad more effective when it’s in a landscape orientation. 

Q. How many apps can you multitask on an iPad?

Split View only works with two apps or windows, but you can open up a third one using Slide Over. This feature, also available from the three-dot menu, can turn an app into a floating window that sits on top of a split screen, either to the left or right.

Be warned, though—if you use Slide Over to put an app on top of a split screen, you won’t be able to move it, as it’ll replace the app under it the moment you let go. This makes Slide Over somewhat impractical to use with Split View, especially because you cannot resize an app you’ve slid over, and its default size will cover a good portion of an evenly split screen.

[Related: iPad Pro review: Pretty and powerful]

But if this still works for you and you want to push the limits of your multitasking abilities, here’s how to do it: 

1. Follow the steps above to split your iPad screen, making sure one of the apps you open is the one you want to slide over.  

2. Tap the three dots at the top of the app you want to float above your split screen and choose Slide Over from the emerging menu. This will turn the app into a floating window, while the one underneath will go into full-screen mode. 

3. Tap the three dots at the top of the app in full-screen mode, choose Split View, and pick a third app to open. This will result in a normal split-screen view, and will hide the window you just slid over. 

4. Bring back the slid-over window or app by swiping and holding from the bottom of the screen. This will show you everything that’s currently open on your iPad, and to the far left, you’ll see the window or app you slid over. Tap it to open it on top of the split-screen view. 

The post How to split your screen on an iPad and conquer multitasking appeared first on Popular Science.

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If you’re looking for your TikTok watch history in the hopes of finding a recently viewed video, it’s probably not where you last saw it. The so-called clock app, as tech companies often do, has changed its menus and stashed this useful feature in an unfamiliar place.

Unlike TikTok’s early days, when the disappointment of accidentally reloading your For You page and losing the share-worthy clip was so common—so visceral—that it became a meme, locating recently watched TikToks is easy now. And if you want to become so powerful that your watch history’s limitations cannot stand in your way, you can use specific search filters and techniques to hunt down exactly what you need. Doing so will be much faster than tediously scrolling through your archive.

How to find your TikTok watch history on iOS and Android

Although people with iPhones got the ability to see their TikTok history before Android users, the processes have since unified. As it should be.

On iOS, all you need to do is tap Profile in the bottom right, hit the main menu (three lines) in the top right, touch Settings and privacy, find the Content & Display heading, tap Activity center, and choose Watch history. You can find your Comment history and Search history on the same page.

On Android, the steps are similar: Profile > main menu (three lines) > Settings and privacy > Activity center > Watch history. Again, if you never comment, you’ll only see Watch history after Settings and privacy.

No matter which mobile operating system you’re using, you’ll see every video you’ve watched within the past 180 days. If you’re trying to find something older, you’ll have to search for it with the normal TikTok search function (tips below).

You can find a recently watched video by scrolling down this page, but be warned: everything is on there. Whether it’s a video you watched in its entirety or one that happened to briefly load and autoplay as you moved around the app, it’s part of your TikTok watch history. The only videos you won’t find are Lives and Stories.

[Related: 7 tips to make the most of TikTok]

Unless you’re extremely patient, this method isn’t great for digging deep into your archive, because you can’t search the watch history page. If you’re a heavy TikTok user and watched something days or weeks ago, you’ll end up scrolling for a while. You can, however, hit Select in the top right and tap individual videos or touch Select all watch history in the bottom left. Then you can permanently get rid of those clips by tapping the bright red Delete button. At least tidy up a bit while you’re there.

From the app’s Home screen, tap the search icon (a magnifying glass) in the top right corner. Then type out the relevant keywords and hit Search. Next, hit the Watched button just above the first row of videos. This will change your search results to show any videos you’ve watched. If you don’t see this option (along with All, Unwatched, and Recently uploaded), make sure you’re in the Top tab—they don’t appear if you’re in any of the others. Otherwise, TikTok may not have registered that you watched a video related to your search terms, or it may have passed before your eyes longer than 180 days ago.

As with your watch history, the Watched search filter will display TikToks that appeared in recent searches and auto-played as thumbnails as you looked through the results, so you may have to dig deeper every time you search.

Other TikTok search tips

The main search results page, whether you filter it or not, is stuffed with content. You can use these tabs and suggestions to further refine your search or just get lost in the TikTok abyss and hope your algorithm doesn’t take a devastating hit. I, for one, will probably spend the next week telling TikTok I’m not interested in those videos where people pour milk all over the counter while “making coffee” because I searched “coffee TikTok” while working on this story. (To do so, long-press on the video when it plays on your FYP and hit Not interested on the menu that appears.)

Some videos in your search results will have a badge indicating they’re among top-liked posts for the search you ran, and if you scroll down a little you may also find related terms other people searched for.

[Related: Why some US lawmakers want to ban TikTok]

Within the less-obvious filters menu (tap the three dots to the right of the search bar, then hit Filters), there are also options to further focus your search on videos you’ve liked, dig up only those posted within a specific time frame, and sort by either relevant videos or ones with the most likes. 

Under the same three dots, you’ll also see Share feedback, which is where TikTok gives you the option to provide feedback on any problems you may have had with their search function. When I first published this story back in January 2022, I joked that maybe if enough people used that form to request an easy-to-use list of recently watched videos, TikTok would make it happen. Well, we did it, folks.

This story has been updated. It was originally published in 2022.

The post Your TikTok watch history has moved—here’s how to find it appeared first on Popular Science.

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You are more than a data point. The Opt Out is here to help you take your privacy back.

We may earn revenue from the products available on this page and participate in affiliate programs. Learn more ›

YOU’VE PROBABLY heard about the benefits of spring cleaning and keeping only what brings you joy. But maybe you haven’t considered that the same logic can also apply to the stuff gathering dust on your storage drives and in the cloud. 

Of course, they’re not literally getting coated in a layer of dirt and dead skin cells (yes, that’s what dust is), but digital files do take up space. And just as more financial security can lead to more challenges, more data can also result in more privacy problems.  

So get rid of some of it and focus your effort on securing the files that matter the most. 

Data hoarding is not good for privacy

If you’re thinking this isn’t something you need to spend time on, think again. Why? The more files you have, the more likely it is that some of your data will spill all over the web. This is because we tend to be disorganized with our digital belongings, which we usually have copies of on multiple platforms and devices. 

We propose an exercise: Think about and list all the accounts you have where you store files, photos, backups, etc. Now add to that every device you have that’s also storing data—your current phone and computers, but also the old ones, and your hard drives and flash drives. The number is likely higher than you’d expected. Now, do you know exactly what kind of information they’re storing? Yeah, probably not. 

[Related: The recycle bin settings you didn’t know you needed]

This doesn’t mean you’re messy. It happens. Sometimes it’s hard to get rid of stuff, and we don’t always have a say in what online platforms we use. Your work or school, for example, may choose them for you. On one hand, this is good, because using different accounts makes it easy to compartmentalize your life. But on the other hand, you can lose track of what you have—even misplacing files you’d consider important. 

You could have all your stuff in one very secure account, but there are two drawbacks to that approach. First, it’s not strategically sound. Put all your file-eggs in one digital basket, and you could lose everything to an outage or have all your information posted online after a data leak. Then there’s the inevitable: Files take up space and space is finite, so having a single cloud account would eventually require you to pay for space. And you don’t want to do that, especially considering how much of it is available for free on the web.

As with most conundrums, the solution is balance. Reduce the number of files you have and save whatever’s left in only a couple of secure locations, combining online and offline storage in a way that works for you. 

Cull your files

Use your computer and start with your local drive and any external hard drives you own. Then move on to your cloud services. The premise is simple: delete, delete, delete.

Tweak your system’s file explorer settings so that files display using the largest possible icons—this will save you time by allowing you to see if they’re worth keeping without actually opening them. On a Mac, make sure your files are showing as icons in Finder, then use the Cmd+ and Cmd- shortcuts to zoom in and out; on Windows, click View on any File Explorer window and choose Large icons or Extra large icons. On Mac computers, you’ll also be able to quickly see files using Preview—just select an item and hit the space bar to see it in a larger size. 

When it comes to deciding what to delete, start with the lowest-hanging fruit: circumstantial files. These include the photos you sent your partner from the grocery store to confirm which hot sauce you should get and the menu for that restaurant you went to three weeks ago. Once those files are gone, get rid of duplicates—you don’t need five slightly different pictures or three versions of the same document. Just choose the final one or the one you like the most and obliterate the rest. Continue by removing bad-quality photos and videos. If it sounds bad, delete it; if the photo is botched beyond editing, trash it; if it’s out of focus, bid it bye-bye. 

For images taken at specific events, like a concert or a wedding, curate your content. Set a specific and realistic number and select only the best items—between 50 and 100 is a good place to start if you want to give yourself some wiggle room. Consider that photos are not memories per se, but tools we use to remember, and you don’t need a full terabyte to remember. 

Once you’re done removing files from your devices and all the external hard drives you own, get comfortable and repeat the process in the cloud. Make a list of the main platforms you’re using and tackle them one by one. 

If you’re overwhelmed by the possibility of deleting something you might miss later, just use Marie Kondo’s criterion: Does it bring you joy? And, when pertinent, is it useful or irreplaceable? If the answer is no, you’ll probably forget about it in five minutes. 

And if you keep thinking about it, don’t worry—you can usually bring your deleted files back from the dead if you act quickly enough and are tech-savvy. When culling files on a cloud service, know that most platforms will move them to the trash folder and keep them there for 30 days. This means two things: 1) you won’t be freeing up space just yet; and 2) you can change your mind at any point before that time runs out. 

The trash folder on Windows and macOS is similar—even if you deleted files from your computer or hard drive, it is sometimes possible to bring them back. Just keep in mind that it can be complicated and sometimes doesn’t work at all, so proceed with caution.   

How and where to store your files

Once you’re done with the massive task of going through all your files, it’s time to organize the documents you kept. Knowing what you have and how to easily find it will allow you to adopt more secure strategies for sensitive material. For example, you don’t want your nudes to live right alongside photos of your family, which you’re more likely to share with people. A bad selection tap and your aunt will see you naked again—and this time it won’t be because she’s changing your diaper. 

A good organization strategy is to separate files according to the different aspects of your life, like “work,” “education,” and “general.” Create folders with your chosen category names, and start using them to organize your files. Within those folders, you can get as specific as you want. Whatever route you choose, the point is to know what you have and how much you have, and to label important documents as such. 

When it comes to choosing where to store your files, keep it practical. Think about your storage locations as your pocket, closet, and basement. Essential files and documents that you always want to have at hand, like your car insurance policy, should live in the cloud for easy access. Files that you probably won’t need urgently but are important enough to keep close by should stay on your phone or your computer’s hard drive—think the spreadsheet where you’ve been tracking your slow-pitch softball team’s performance this season. Finally, the documents you want to keep but you’ll hardly ever open, like your brother’s wedding pictures, should go on an external hard drive. The idea is to avoid wasting cloud space on files you probably won’t need at a moment’s notice. 

Secure your files

Now that you’ve decreased the number of files to your name, it’s time to keep them safe. Whether you’re using the cloud or a folder on your computer, secure sensitive files behind a good password and enable two-factor authentication wherever possible. 

If you can’t or won’t think of a good password, opt for a password manager—these apps will also remember your credentials for you, so it’s a win-win. As an alternative, if the platform you’re using supports passkeys, consider enabling one—it will allow you to access your files in multiple ways, such as with your face or fingerprint. Some cloud platforms offer different ways to secure your account—get to know them and use the ones that make sense for you. 

[Related: Passkeys could be better than passwords. Here’s how they work.]

Beyond that, the ultimate security measure is to encrypt your files before you upload them to the cloud or save them to a local or external hard drive. This will protect your content from data leaks and any snoopers who might want to see what you keep on your hard drive. Windows and macOS have built-in encryption options for your local documents, but you can also find dedicated apps that will do the job for you.

If this all sounds like a lot, it’s because it is. You probably have a lifetime of files scattered around on the web, your external hard drives, and multiple cloud storage accounts. This whole process of downsizing your data will take time, and it’s fine if you do it in batches. Just remember that the fewer files you have, the easier it’ll be to manage and protect them in the future. 

Read more PopSci+ stories.

The post The Opt Out: Reduce your privacy risk by deleting a bunch of files appeared first on Popular Science.

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You spend a lot of time looking at the lock screen of your Pixel phone—checking the clock, seeing if people have replied to your messages, and so on—so you’ll want to get it set up in the best way to suit you.

In fact, you might not have realized how many different ways you can customize the Pixel’s lock screen, from the size and color of the clock, to the type of notifications that appear before you unlock your handset.

Change your wallpaper and fine-tune your colors

The most basic way to customize the Pixel’s lock screen is by slapping on a new wallpaper, and you can set a lock screen backdrop that’s different from the one you have on your home screens.

To start, press and hold on a blank part of the home screen, then choose Wallpaper and style and Change wallpaper. You’ve got plenty of options here: You can dive into your own photo gallery, pick an image from one of the wallpaper collections Google has put together, or tap Emoji workshop to create a picture using emojis.

When you’ve selected an image, you’ll be taken to a preview screen—tap Lock screen to see how it looks when your phone is locked. If you’re happy, select Set wallpaper, then Lock screen (to set it for the lock screen only) or Home and lock screens (to set it across Android entirely).

Go back to the Wallpaper and style screen and you’ll see you can pick between Wallpaper colors and Basic colors for the operating system: Choose the latter to have the colors of Android menus and icons follow the color scheme of your new wallpaper. This will also affect the clock and widgets on the lock screen.

Adjust the at-a-glance widget

Google puts a handy at-a-glance widget on both the lock and home screens, giving you timely information such as the current weather forecast and appointments you’ve got coming up on your calendar.

To edit what this widget shows, tap and hold on it on the home screen, then choose Customize, and tap the cog icon next to At a Glance. You’ll see a long list of toggle switches for controlling content in the widget (and more behind See more features), including Fitness, Bedtime, Parcel delivery, and Commute.

On this same screen, there are also options for allowing apps you’ve got installed (such as weather apps) to send information to the widget on the home and lock screens, and to hide sensitive content from the lock screen widget—this is handy if you think other people might be looking at your phone while it’s locked.

[Related: Syncing Google and Apple calendars is less annoying now]

Google doesn’t provide a definitive list of what “sensitive content” actually is, but one area where we’ve seen this setting make a difference is with Google Calendar appointments. If you’re hiding sensitive content, these won’t appear on the lock screen, so other people won’t be able to see that job interview or doctor’s appointment you’ve got coming up.

Other Pixel customization settings

You can customize what appears on the lock screen in a few other ways by opening up Settings and tapping Display, followed by Lock screen. The Privacy option lets you show or hide sensitive content in notifications, as they come in—again, Google doesn’t say what “sensitive” means, but it does include the first line of incoming messages and emails.

Another option is to tap Add text on lock screen to do just that. The most common use of this feature is to put your name and perhaps some contact details (like an email address) on the lock screen in case someone finds your phone and needs to return it to you—though you’re free to add any kind of message you like.

Then there’s a series of toggle switches for showing or hiding various elements, including the Now Playing widget that automatically identifies songs that are playing nearby. And if you want a smaller clock that doesn’t take up the whole lock screen, turn off Double-line clock.

The last few options let you choose whether or not the lock screen “wakes up” to show information when you tap the display, pick up your phone, and notifications arrive. You can also turn off Always show time and info to prevent anything from appearing on screen while your phone is sleeping, which should help improve battery life.

The post How to set up the wallpapers and widgets that will make your Pixel more fun appeared first on Popular Science.

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Knowing how to share your location on Google Maps can be a valuable tool. With just a single tap, this feature will let your friends know you’re safe if you’re walking home alone, give your family some peace of mind when you’re traveling, and help you keep an eye on your teen while they’re on their first solo drive.

When you share your Google Maps location, the person on the other side will be able to track your movements, see how much battery is left on your phone, and even set an alert that announces your arrival or departure from a specific location.

But be careful: In some cases Google Maps will generate a link that anybody—even people you don’t know—can use to see your whereabouts. You’ll need to be careful who you share it with. It’s also a good idea to routinely check the app and see who has access to your location and remove permissions when necessary.

How to share your location with another Google account

With Google Maps, sharing your location is easy whether you have an iPhone or an Android device. Before you begin, open the app and if you’re not logged in already, sign in using your Google account credentials.

1. If the person you’ll be sharing your location with isn’t already on the contacts list associated with your Google account, start by adding their Gmail address to your list.

If they don’t have a Google account or you’d rather not add them to your contacts list, skip to the next section.

2. On Google Maps, tap your profile picture in the top right corner of your screen and on the emerging menu tap Location Sharing.

3. The next screen will explain how Location Sharing works and what information other people will be able to access when you share your whereabouts with them. On Android, tap Share my location to continue; on iOS, tap New Share.

4. Then you’ll be able to determine how long the person you’ll be sharing your location with can track you. This is crucial, as you may want them to keep an eye on you while you head home, but don’t want them to know where you are next week. Protect your privacy by choosing the least amount of time possible. On Android and iPhone, under Share your real-time location, use the plus (+) and minus (–) to set the exact amount of time your whereabouts will be available to others, ranging from 15 minutes to a day.

On Android, you also have the ability to share their location until they decide not to. To do that, tap the circle next to Until I turn it off.

5. After selecting a time limit, tap the profile of one or more people you want to share your location with. You may need to grant Google Maps access to your contacts in order to do this.

You’ll notice some contacts have a tiny Google Maps icon on their profile pictures. They’re the people that also have the app on their phones—if you share your location with them, they’ll be able to track you directly from there.

6. If you haven’t already, Google Maps will prompt you to grant it access to your location at all times. Follow the instructions on the screen to do it.

• Note: You won’t be able to share your location with other users if you don’t change this setting. But if you’re not comfortable with Google Maps knowing where you are at all times, you can always change it back. On Android, go to Settings, Location, Google Maps, and tweak permissions as you see fit. On iPhone go to Settings, Privacy & Security, Location Services, and Google Maps.

7. Tap Share to finish.

Share your Google Maps location with someone who doesn’t have a Google account

Even if the person you want to share your location with doesn’t have a Google account, you can still share your whereabouts with them on Google Maps.

1. From the Google Maps app, tap on your profile, then Location sharing. 

2. On an iPhone, tap on New Share and choose More Options at the bottom of the screen. On Android devices, tap Share my location and focus your attention on the bottom of the screen, where you’ll see the apps you can use to share a link with your location.

3. From here, you have a bevy of options for sharing a direct link to your Google Maps location. You can choose from a list of your favorite text message chats on several platforms, plus email and social media apps. You can also just copy the link and paste it wherever you want.

Android users will also have the chance to choose a contact that doesn’t have Google Maps on their phone—they’re the ones without the multicolor pin icon over their profile pictures. For them, the way you share your location will depend on the information shown below their names: If you see a phone number, they’ll receive an text with a link to your location on the web version of Google Maps; if you see an email, they’ll receive the link via email.

• Warning: The link Google Maps generates with your location is public, which means that anybody who has it will be able to know where you are in real time. Be careful who you share this link with. If possible, share it only through direct and private channels with people you know and trust. 

How to share your trip on Google Maps

In some cases, you may not want to give someone the ability to track you while you move for a set amount of time, but rather for a particular trip. This is ideal if you’re visiting friends and family and want to give them the ability to keep tabs on you as you travel from point A to point B.

1. Start a journey on Google Maps: Select a destination and tap Start.

2. Once Google Maps has started your trip, tap the bottom of the screen to bring up an options menu and choose Share trip progress.

3. Google Maps will display your frequent contacts at the bottom of the screen—tap one to share your trip with them.

If the person you want to share your location with is not there, Android users can slide the icons to the left and tap More to open a more comprehensive contacts list. You can also pick one of the apps at the bottom of your screen and share a link through one of them.

Meanwhile, if you have an iPhone, you can tap More options at the bottom of the page to access various messaging and email apps to share a link with your trip information.

4. As soon as the contact you shared your trip information with opens the link, they will be able to track your progress up until the trip ends.

FAQs

The post How to share your location on Google Maps appeared first on Popular Science.

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If you own a Google Pixel phone, you’ve now got some fun features to play around with. The latest Pixel drop update added a couple of new options for creating wallpapers on your device, giving you added flexibility when it comes to picking a backdrop.

The first one is cinematic wallpapers, which allows you to add a dynamic, 3D-style effect to any image you use on your lock screen. The second one is the ability to create emoji wallpapers, where you can use any emoji as the basis of your smartphone’s creation and generate a customized backdrop. Both features will give your device a personal touch and are incredibly fun to play around with.

All of the existing wallpaper options on the Pixel remain in place, so you can still pick a regular picture for your home screen or one of Google’s moving images or photos, if you want.

How to make cinematic wallpapers on a Pixel

To get into the wallpaper editor on your Pixel, tap and hold on a blank area of one of your phone’s home screens, then choose Wallpaper and style and Change wallpaper. Tap My photos, then select the image you want to use from your gallery. It can be a photo you took with your camera or a file stored anywhere else on the phone, like a picture you received or downloaded from the web.

When it comes to choosing the best image to turn into a cinematic wallpaper, there aren’t any restrictions, but some photos will work better than others. We found the best results come from images with clear foreground subjects—think kids, pets, or lamps. 

With your image open, tap the icon in the top right corner showing three sparks, and turn on the toggle switch that’s labeled Create Cinematic wallpaper. After a few seconds where Google’s AI will identify the foreground from the background to produce an effect where the two seem more separated, your new wallpaper will be ready to use. Tap Set wallpaper, and choose whether you want to apply it only to your home screens, or your home screens and lock screen.

[Related: Google Pixel 7 Pro review: Viva la (hardware) evolution]

Your Pixel will apply that cinematic effect as you lock and unlock the device, as well as when you switch between the home screens and your apps, swipe through home screens, and tilt your phone. Spend some time playing around with different types of images and you’ll get a better idea of how the feature works.

Keep in mind that animated backdrops usually consume more battery than regular, static wallpapers. It shouldn’t be a big problem, but if you’re regularly struggling to extend your phone’s battery life, you may want to think twice about using a cinematic wallpaper. 

How to make emoji wallpapers on the Google Pixel

To create an emoji wallpaper, tap and hold on a blank area of a home screen, then pick Wallpaper and style and Change wallpaper. This time, select Emoji workshop, and you’ll be ready to start playing around with the emojis of your choice. The system will already have selected some for you, but you can tap Edit emoji in the bottom right corner of your screen to make your own picks.

You can create a wallpaper from a single emoji, or from as many as 14. If you’re stuck for inspiration, use the Randomize button, which will pick some emojis for you. From what we can tell, the software tries to pick related emojis, but it doesn’t always get it right.

There are two other tabs here: Open Patterns to pick how you want your emojis arranged as they repeat across the screen, and the size of the emojis. Open Colors to choose the color scheme for your new emoji-based backdrop. All of these settings can be jumbled up again with a tap on Randomize.

When you’ve got something you like, tap the checkmark icon in the top right corner, and then choose Set wallpaper. You’ll notice your Pixel applies a few animation effects to the emoji wallpaper, as you swipe between home screens and lock and unlock your device. Note that as you create new emoji wallpapers, your old ones will be saved so you can go to the Emoji workshop screen to get them back.

Other wallpapers

If this is the first time you’ve experimented with the wallpaper settings on your Pixel phone, you might be wondering about all the other options that appear when you choose Wallpaper and style and Change wallpaper from the home screen.

The My photos option is fairly straightforward, enabling you to pick an image stored on your phone. You’ll also see curated collections of images provided by Google, covering categories such as Art, Landscapes, and Textures. The Live bloom and Living universe selections are a bit more interesting, as they come with added motion effects, like short video clips.

[Related: 7 tips and tricks to master your Google Pixel Tablet]

Head into Community lens to see images from other users that have been picked out by Google’s team. They cover some pretty dramatic landscape and nature shots, and can be useful if you’re not keen on using any of your own snaps (or generating a custom wallpaper using emoji).

Once you’ve set your wallpaper, back on the Wallpaper and style screen you’ll see a Wallpaper colors setting: Enable this if you want the interface colors on your Pixel (for lock screen items, menus, and other areas) to match the color scheme of the current wallpaper.

The post Emoji wallpapers and cinematic backdrops can make your Pixel phone as fun as you are appeared first on Popular Science.

Articles may contain affiliate links which enable us to share in the revenue of any purchases made.

Sharing your location on an iPhone isn’t difficult, but you will have to make one important decision before you let your contacts know where you are: how exactly you want to share that information. There are several easy methods available on iOS—it’s just a matter of choosing which one works best for you.

Before you try any of the options in this story, though, you’ll need to turn on Location Services. You won’t be able to share your location from your iPhone if you don’t.

We encourage you to restrict location sharing whenever you can, or at least check which iPhone apps and tools are using Location Services—indefinite sharing can drain your battery, at best, and be a privacy or security risk, at worst. To check who has access to your whereabouts, follow the steps above to open the Location Services settings, then tap Share My Location. If you’re sharing your location with anyone from your iPhone, you’ll see their name listed there. To cut them off, touch their name, then hit Stop Sharing My Location at the bottom of the screen.

Quick access

• Share your location in the iPhone Messages app
• Share your location in Apple’s Find My app
• Share your location via Family Sharing
• Share your location in Google Maps or Apple Maps
• Share your location via satellite
• Why your iPhone won’t share your location

How to share your location using the Messages app

One of the most popular ways to share your location on an iPhone is via the Messages app. It’s also one of the more non-committal options and will turn off automatically if you choose the right time period.

This method will only work if the recipient also has an Apple device, but you can also use Messages to send your location (different from sharing your location) to anyone with an Apple or Android phone. Doing so will send a map pin of your current location, but it won’t track your movements.

1. In the Messages app, open the individual or group chat you want to share your location with.

2. Tap the name at the top of the screen.

3. Touch Share My Location.

• Note: Here’s where you can choose to Send My Current Location instead, which is the only way you can use Messages to tell your Android friends where you are.

4. Choose the time period you want to share your location for: one hour, until the end of the day, or indefinitely.

• Caution: If you pick Share for One Hour or Share Until End of Day, your iPhone will stop sharing your location automatically once time is up. If you choose Share Indefinitely, though, you might forget to turn it off.

How to share your iPhone location via the Find My app

Apple’s Find My app offers a variety of location-based services, including helping you find your lost devices, and detecting if an AirTag is moving with you. As such, you can also share your location on any iPhone with the Find My app installed.

[Related: Hidden iPhone tricks that will change the way you use iOS]

If you can’t find it, go to your iPhone’s Home screen and swipe all the way to the left until App Library appears at the top of the screen. Tap that search box and search for “Find My.” If it still doesn’t appear, you may have to reinstall it from the App Store.

1. To share your location from the Find My app, you’ll need to make sure you’re using your phone as the default Find My device. In the Find My app, go to the Me tab.

2. If the app already says you’re sharing from “this iPhone,” you’re good to go. Otherwise, tap Use this iPhone as My Location.

3. Now go to the People tab.

4. Tap the plus icon.

5. Hit Share My Location.

Use Apple’s Family Sharing to share your location

If you’re part of a Family Sharing group, you may already be sharing your location with the other members, but you can always customize your location sharing options.

1. From the iPhone Settings app, tap Family at the top of the screen, right under your name.

2. Touch Location Sharing to open further location settings.

• Share your location with: Use the toggle switches next to other family members’ names to enable or disable their ability to see your location.
• Automatically Share Location: Turn this on to instantly share your location with anyone who joins the family group. Turn it off to… not do that.

Share your location on an iPhone from Google Maps or Apple Maps

While you can share your location from an iPhone using the map apps from both Google and Apple, these options are not as comprehensive as the ones listed above.

Google Maps

Google Maps might be the best way to share your iPhone location with anyone who has an Android phone. We can provide the basic steps here, but if you’d like to dig a little deeper into the nuances of this cross-platform app, you can check out our guide on how to share your location on Google Maps.

1. In the Google Maps app, tap your avatar in the top right corner to open the app’s settings.

2. Touch Location sharing.

3. Choose from the list of people you’ve previously shared your location with, or hit New share to send it to someone new.

4. Decide how long you want to share your location, then pick the recipient from the list below.

• Note: If you don’t see the sharing options you want, you can swipe left on the list of people until you get to More, where you can type specific names, phone numbers, or email addresses, or hit More options to open the standard iOS sharing interface.

Apple Maps

You can’t share your real-time location from Apple Maps, but you can send a pin showing your current location.

1. From the Maps app, drag up from the bottom of the screen until you expand the menu and can see Share My Location. Tap that.

[Related: 14 tricks to get more out of the underrated Apple Maps app]

2. Choose the person you want to share your location with, or tap on the app you want to send your location from, such as Instagram or Signal.

How to share your location on an iPhone via satellite when you’re offline

Sometimes, you just don’t have cell service or WiFi access. Nature therapy can be good for you. But even when you’re off-grid, you may still want people to be able to find your location, especially if you end up lost in the wilderness.

If you have an iPhone 14 or 15, or the Pro versions of those phones, running iOS 16.1 or later, you should be able to share your location via satellite, but only if you set everything up before you ventured outside the range of cell and WiFi coverage. To do so, follow the steps above to share your iPhone location with specific people in the Find My app. Then save this article to read offline in case of an emergency.

1. Make sure you’re in an open area with a clear view of the sky and the horizon. Otherwise, you might not be able to link up with a satellite.

2. Open Find My, tap Me, find My Location via Satellite, and hit Send My Location.

3. Follow the instructions on screen—it may tell you to turn left or right to connect, or offer further guidance.

It’s worth noting that there are a lot of caveats to how this works, and Apple can explain better than we can. Ultimately, it’s good to know, but you probably shouldn’t rely on it to save you—focus on not getting lost instead.

1. From the Location Services settings page, scroll down the list of apps until you find the one you’re trying to share from—Messages, for example.

2. Check the words to the right of the app’s name—if it says Never, it doesn’t have permission to share your location.

3. Tap the app’s name, then choose one of the following options:

• Ask Next Time Or When I Share: The next time you try to share your location via the app, it’ll ask if you want it to access your location data.
• While Using the App: You’ll be able to share your location anytime you’re using the app.

The post How to share your location on an iPhone, including by satellite appeared first on Popular Science.

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You can’t deny the thrill of unboxing a brand new gadget, but sticking to factory-fresh tech every time isn’t cheap. Buying second-hand electronics, on the other hand, can save you a significant amount of cash and is a lot kinder to the environment.

Whether you’re buying used phones or used laptops, you may have valid concerns about the quality and lifespan of your purchase. Fortunately, some common sense precautions can ensure that your previously owned gadgets serve you well for years to come.

No matter what kind of tech you’re in the market for, the rules of engagement are more or less the same when it comes to minimizing the risk of ending up with a dud. Read on to familiarize yourself with them and start enjoying big savings.

Check the seller

What vendor you buy from will depend on how comfortable you are balancing risk and reward. Used gadget sales backed by major companies are a safer bet. Apple’s refurbished program, for example, guarantees brand-new batteries, bundled accessories, and the standard Apple one-year warranty.  But this peace of mind comes at a price, as buying second-hand tech from a big retailer is likely to be more expensive than buying from a random stranger on eBay.

[Related: How to sell your unwanted gadgets for cash]

If you want to go with a name you know, you’ve got quite a few options, including Decluttr, Amazon, and Best Buy. You can also check in with your favorite electronics store or manufacturer website to see what’s available.

Buying second-hand tech from an individual or a smaller company will likely mean cheaper prices and more choices, but less warranties and protections. If you’re happy with that, you can check out sites such as eBay, Swappa, and Facebook Marketplace. All these sites allow you to perform due diligence on the person you’re buying from to find clues of their trustworthiness: you can look at their selling history, the amount of information they give about themselves, and how old their account is.

A useful way of vetting individual sellers is to ask questions about the item you’re interested in. You won’t only learn more about what you’re buying, but how quickly the vendor gets back to you and how they respond should tell you something about them as well. The good news is that the majority of sellers out there aren’t wanting to rip you off: They just want to make some money on older tech.

No matter where you buy from, always check the returns policy and warranty information. Walmart Restored, for example, offers a one-year warranty or 90-day free returns on all purchases. Meanwhile, if you’re buying used on Amazon, you also get a 90-day guarantee on everything.

If you’re buying from individuals, check the listing carefully, and when in doubt, just ask questions—again, this is a good way of weighing up who you’re dealing with. See if they’re able to provide the original receipt and proof of purchase, as the official warranty might still apply. 

Check the item

As well as checking the seller carefully, you’ll need to check the product. Start by taking a detailed look at the images provided by the vendor, and don’t be shy about asking for more if you need them. Then, go over the item description meticulously to look for any mention of damage or faults, which should be revealed up front. In particular, you want to know when the gadget was originally purchased and get a good idea of how much it’s been used and what condition it’s in now.

Some checks will be specific to the device you’re interested in. When buying used iPhones, for example, it’s worth asking the seller to check the battery health (under Battery in the iOS Settings). If you’re buying a used video graphics card, ask to see some benchmarks to check on performance, maybe from 3DMark or a game you’re keen on. The more detail you can get, the better.

It’s also worth double-checking what the item comes with in terms of bundled accessories like chargers and headphones. Sellers can often forget to mention this and it can make a difference when comparing or negotiating prices. When buying used tablets, for example, look for mentions of included cases, screen protectors, or keyboard accessories, and see if they’re the official ones or third-party replacements.

Something else to check for is whether or not the gadget comes in its original packaging. This is usually the case with refurbished items, but not so much when you’re dealing with individual sellers. If the original box and accessories are included, it’s more likely that you’re dealing with a genuine product that’s been obtained through legal means—but it’s no guarantee.

[Related: How to set the right price when selling your old tech]

The price of a second-hand gadget is another indication of whether you should be completing this deal. Be wary of anything being sold too cheaply, or that the buyer is trying to get rid of in a rush. Some sites let you search through completed sales on the platform to give you an idea of what an item should be fetching—on eBay, type in the name and details of the product on the search bar and check Sold items in the left-hand pane.

When you find a deal you’re happy with, make sure you follow whatever rules and methods set by the site you’re using. In the case of eBay, for instance, don’t arrange payment or postage outside of the systems the platform has put in place. You’ll actually get warnings if you try swapping email addresses, for example, because if you’re communicating outside of the site, eBay won’t be able to see the messages you’ve sent and received in the event of a dispute, voiding any kind of buyer protection they might have offered.

The post Pro tips for buying used tech without getting scammed appeared first on Popular Science.

Articles may contain affiliate links which enable us to share in the revenue of any purchases made.

Learning how to use Google Pay is easy, whether you have an Android device or an iPhone. The Big G’s digital payment platform lets users pay for products and services online and in stores, send money, and save loyalty cards all in one app. 

With online shopping and contactless payments becoming more popular, Google Pay has become an important tool for people who want a safe and easy way to manage their money. It makes paying easier and gives you extra perks like rewards and savings, making it a great alternative to other payment platforms, such as Apple Pay.

How to set up Google Pay

To use Google Pay, you must have an active Google account. If you don’t, create one.

1. Download the Google Pay app from your phone’s app store.

2. Open the app. Select your country in the upper right corner, then sign in with your Google account. Tap Continue and set up your privacy preferences—you can let people find you only by your phone number, and make your transactions public, if you want. But if you don’t feel like getting into it right away, you can also select Not Now and adjust the preferences later in your Google account.

3. You must add a payment method by linking your debit or credit card, bank account, or PayPal account to your Google Pay account. Tap Add an account (iOS) or Link account (Android).

• Note: If you’ve already added credit or debit cards to your phone’s native wallet app, Google Pay might automatically add them to the app.

4. Google Pay uses Plaid, a third-party service, to obtain transaction and balance information from your accounts. Select Accept to agree, then Continue on the next screen.

5. Select your financial institution from the short list or type its name into the search bar at the top if you don’t see it listed. When you find it, select it and log in.

6. If the app is able to connect to your bank, the platform will let you know your account was successfully added. Tap Continue to finish. You’re all set—you can use Google Pay immediately.

How to send and receive money with Google Pay

Once you link your bank account or debit card to the app, you can easily pay your friend back for last Sunday’s brunch—just tap Send or request, select the person you want to send money to, enter the amount, and confirm the transaction. You can also request money from others by entering their email address or phone number.

How to use Google Pay in stores

iOS and WatchOS

Once you’ve set everything up on your iPhone or Apple Watch, you can use Google Pay without opening the app. All you have to do is unlock your Apple device, hold it near a contactless payment terminal, and follow the instructions on the screen. Your gadget might ask you to authenticate the transaction via FaceID or by providing your fingerprint, or pressing the lock screen button. Note that you can’t add a gift card to Google Pay on iOS, as that feature is only available for the Android version of the app.

Android

Google Pay doesn’t come downloaded by default on Android phones, so you’ll have to download it and set it up. Once that’s done, you can pay without opening the app—just unlock your device and hold it close to a contactless payment terminal.

How to use Google Pay for online and in-app purchases

Figuring out how to use Google Pay for in-app and online purchases is simple—just look for the right payment option at checkout. Select it, choose the card you want to use for the transaction (if you’ve added more than one) and follow the instructions. 

[Related: 4 good international money transfer apps]

If you’re using a credit card, you might have to confirm the security code (CVV) at the back of your card. If prompted, finish by authenticating the purchase using your device’s security measures. Keep in mind that not all vendors support Google Pay, so if that’s your only available payment method, make sure the website or app is compatible before filling up your cart.

FAQs

The post How to use Google Pay to shop and transfer money appeared first on Popular Science.

Articles may contain affiliate links which enable us to share in the revenue of any purchases made.

Remember LiveJournal? There’s a good chance you left a lot of fanfiction and/or teenage angst on there, assuming you were a teenager in the 2000s. Since then, however, the trajectory of LiveJournal has been weird. 

LiveJournal stopped being relevant in the English-speaking world by the late 2000s, but remained popular in the Russian-speaking world. By the early 2010s, half of all traffic to LiveJournal was from Russia, where it became an important tool for the Russian opposition—Alexei Navalny, the anti-corruption activist and former opposition leader, had a popular blog on LiveJournal before he became a political prisoner. Eventually, LiveJournal was acquired by a Russian company with rumored connections to that country’s security apparatus. By 2018 all servers were moved to Russia and the terms of service were updated to comply with Russian law. This basically means you can’t use the service to criticize the Russian government or discuss LGBTQ+ issues, among other things.

Like I said: things got weird. It’s understandable, given this context, if you don’t want to keep your teenage ramblings on that site. That’s why, after a friend asked, I looked into ways to back up LiveJournal posts. It wasn’t straightforward. At all. LiveJournal offers an official exporting tool, but it can only export one month’s worth of posts at a time, which is basically useless. I tried using Wget to scrape old entries, but this backfired hilariously: LiveJournal blocked my IP address. After a lot of research, I figured out that using WordPress is the best way to back up your old LiveJournal posts. Of course, if you have no interest in saving anything and just want to delete your LiveJournal account, you can skip straight to that section below.

Set up a WordPress blog

WordPress is the most popular blogging tool on the contemporary web. There are two versions of WordPress: WordPress.com, which is a blogging service you can sign up for and use; and WordPress.org, which is an open-source system you can use with any web hosting service. (I wrote an extensive breakdown of the two versions for a former employer, if you’re interested.) 

You can use either version of WordPress to back up your LiveJournal, and you can easily migrate from one to the other if you change your mind. If you’d rather not pay for web hosting, I recommend starting with WordPress.com. Just sign up for an account, choose a name for your blog, and you’re up and running.

It may also be worth making your WordPress blog private, so no one can read your ancient LiveJournal posts while you figure out what you want to do with them. To do so, go to your site’s dashboard, click Settings, then General, and find the Privacy section. There, click the bubble next to Private to ensure only you (and anyone you give login information to) can see what’s there.

Migrate your LiveJournal posts

1. After setting up WordPress, hover over Tools in the sidebar and click Import. 

2. You will see several options, none of which are LiveJournal. Click Choose from full list at the bottom. 

3. Now you’ll see the LiveJournal option; click Run Importer. 

4. You will be asked for your LiveJournal username and password. You can also optionally set a password for any posts that were private on LiveJournal—they will all be protected with the same password. 

5. Click Connect to LiveJournal and Import, and the process will begin. This will take a while, and it might not look like anything is happening. Be patient and leave the tab open, but don’t panic if you accidentally close it: you can restart the importer and it will pick up where it left off. Eventually you will be told that the process is complete. You now have a backup of your LiveJournal posts and comments—check that everything is there. 

Delete your LiveJournal account if you want

Once you’ve confirmed that your posts are all on WordPress, you might want to delete your LiveJournal entirely, which you can do from your “account status” page. Just check the two boxes for deleting your comments and entries, then click the Delete my account and journal button. Note that you can’t undo this.

The post Patch a potential privacy risk by deleting your ancient LiveJournal appeared first on Popular Science.

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The latest version of Google Chrome introduced new settings that have raised privacy concerns. Google says these tools “give you more choice over the ads you see,” which sounds nice. But it’s also a jargony way to say the browser will track your web surfing and share some of your data with advertisers so they can show you ads that more effectively tempt you into spending money.  

The update has not been well received by privacy advocates, and even though you can turn all of these features off (more on that later), you can also just ditch Chrome and import your data into another browser, like Firefox, Edge, or Safari. 

Jumping ship is incredibly easy, and even though the process won’t transfer every single customization you’ve made to Chrome over the years—like personalized search engines and experimental flags—you’ll be able to pick up where you left off in no time.

How to import bookmarks and other Chrome data to Firefox

If you care about privacy, Firefox is a great alternative to Chrome. It’s free, fast, highly customizable, and easy to use. It also has a great track record when it comes to preventing cookies from following you around the web.

Start by downloading Firefox (available for all major operating systems) and opening it.  

1. From the main navigation bar, go to File, then Import from another browser. This will open a data transfer tool in a new tab. 

2. Firefox will automatically detect other browsers on your system and all user profiles or sessions saved to each one. Use the dropdown menu to select the session and browser you want to import your data from. 

3. Click the plus sign next to Import all available data to customize what you want to transfer from Chrome. By default, the checkboxes next to Bookmarks, Saved logins and passwords, Browsing history, and Extensions will be selected. If you want to leave something behind and start fresh, you can click the checkbox again to deselect that item.   

4. Finish by clicking Import.

Firefox will immediately organize your bookmarks in its own bar, have your browsing history readily available, and whenever you need a password, it’ll offer the right one. Extensions may require further tweaking, but you’ll know if one requires your attention by clicking the extensions icon to the right of the address bar—it looks like a puzzle piece.

[Related: 11 hot Firefox tips and tricks that might finally convince you to switch browsers]

How to import your Chrome data to Edge

Microsoft’s recently renewed Edge browser is built on Chromium, which means it plays particularly nice with Google’s offer. This also means that importing Chrome bookmarks and other data to Edge is both easy and intuitive, and you’ll also be able to import a lot more than with other browsers. 

1. Open Edge and go to Settings—find it by clicking on the three dots in the upper right corner of your screen. 

2. In the new tab, under Profiles, go to Import browser data. 

3. Select Import next to Import data from Google Chrome. 

4. In the emerging dialogue box, you’ll see two dropdown menus—use the second to select the Chrome session you want to import data from. 

5. Use the checkboxes below to choose what you want to import from Chrome. By default, all items will be selected: Favorites or bookmarks, Saved passwords, Personal info, Payment info, Browsing history, Settings, Open tabs, and Extensions. If you want to leave something behind, just click the relevant checkbox again to deselect it. When you’re done, click Import.

6. Edge will finish importing your data almost immediately, and will tell you so. All of your information will be readily available and just like you had it on Chrome. That’s the benefit of switching to a browser that’s built so similarly. 

How to import Chrome data to Safari

Apple users can try the built-in Safari browser, which some say may even be better than Chrome. The only downside is that, just like mobile apps for iOS and Android, the extensions Chrome uses are different from the ones for Safari. This means you can’t import them from one browser to the other, so you’ll have to start from scratch on that front. You can, however, easily import bookmarks, history, and passwords. 

1. Open Safari, go to File, hover over Import from, and choose Google Chrome.

2. Safari will open a dialogue box listing all the items it’ll import from Chrome: Bookmarks, History, and Passwords. All these checkboxes will be selected by default, so if you want to leave something behind, just click on it to deselect it. 

3. Once you’re satisfied with your choices, close Chrome if you haven’t already, and click Import. When it’s done, Safari will show you exactly what it did—click OK to close the dialogue box.

Your browsing history and passwords will be readily available. Unfortunately, Safari does this annoying thing where it imports your bookmarks into a folder within a folder, so you won’t immediately see your links on your Favorites bar. You can move the items and get rid of the extra folders, but you’ll have to manually drag and drop them, which can be a pain depending on the number of pages you’ve saved.

Export your data from Chrome

1. On Chrome for desktop, click the three dots in the upper right corner of your screen and head to Google Password Manager—the manager will open in a new tab.

2. In the left sidebar, click Settings. 

3. Under Export passwords, click Download file, and provide any credentials or biometrics Chrome might ask for to confirm it’s you. 

4. Use the emerging explorer window to choose a location for your CSV file, then click Save. 

• Note: The resulting CSV file will contain all of your credentials and is not encrypted. This means that if anybody else opens it, they’ll be able to see the username and passwords for all of your saved accounts. Don’t leave this file laying around—import it immediately and delete it as soon as you’re done with it. Then completely remove it from your hard drive by deleting it again from your computer’s trash.
  

5. Now you’ll need to download the HTML file with your bookmarks. Click on the three dots in the upper right corner of your screen, hover over Bookmarks, and click on Bookmark manager

6. Click the three dots in the upper right corner of the tab. Confusingly enough, these are not the same three dots that you clicked in Step 1, but you’ll find the correct ones right below them. 

7. Click Export bookmarks. Use the emerging window to select the location you want to put the file in, and click Save.  

Import CSV and HTML files to Firefox

1. From the main navigation bar, go to File, then Import from another browser. This will open an import tool in a new tab. 

2. Use the dropdown menu to select either Passwords from CSV file or Bookmarks from HTML file. Whichever one you choose, Firefox will open a new window so you can select the correct file. Click on it, and the browser will import the data. 

3. Repeat the process with the remaining file. 

Import CSV and HTML files to Safari

1. Open Safari, go to File, Import from, and then choose either Bookmarks HTML file or Passwords CSV files. 

2. Use the emerging window to find the correct file and import it. When importing passwords, Safari will require your authentication (biometrics or password) to add the information to your Keychain. 

[Related: 7 things Safari can do that Google Chrome can’t]

3. If you imported your bookmarks, you’re done. If you imported passwords, Safari will tell you how many of your credentials it imported. If there’s some data it couldn’t save, you can click on Open Password settings in the dialogue box and manually add the missing information. 

4. Repeat the process with the remaining file. 

Import CSV and HTML files to Edge

1. While using Edge, go to Settings—you can find it by clicking on the three dots in the upper right corner of your screen. Under Profiles, go to Import browser data. 

2. Select Import next to Import data from Google Chrome. 

3. In the emerging dialogue box, use the first dropdown menu to select either Favorites or bookmarks HTML file or Passwords CSV file. 

4. In the next dialogue box, click Choose file. Use the File Explorer window to pick the right file on your local hard drive. Select it and click Open. Edge will then confirm it’s done importing your data, which will be immediately available for you. 

5. Repeat steps 3 and 4 with the remaining file. 

How to turn off Chrome’s new privacy settings 

If you’re throwing your arms in the air and asking yourself if there is a way you can just keep Chrome without the ad tracking features, the answer is yes: just turn them off. 

On Chrome, go to your privacy settings or type chrome://settings/adPrivacy into the search bar. There, you’ll see three options you can click on to get more information: Ad topics, Site-suggested ads, and Ad measurement.

Ad topics analyzes your browsing history to determine topics you’re interested in. So, if you search “Yankees score” and visit the official site for Major League Baseball, Google will add “baseball” or “sports” to your topics. You can see the list of topics the browser has identified for you, and if you’re not comfortable with one of them, you can block it. Chrome will share four weeks worth of this data at a time with advertisers so they can show you stuff you might like. If you don’t want any of this, just toggle off the switch next to Ad topics. 

With site-suggested ads, Chrome allows sites to show you ads based on your topics and other browsing data. You won’t be able to see a comprehensive list of the sites that can do this, but if you can think of one that you’d rather not have your data, you can block it. But again, you can disable the entire feature by toggling off the switch next to Site-suggested ads.

Finally, ad measurement allows Chrome to share certain data with websites so they know how effective the ads they showed you were. The browser says it constantly deletes this data, but doesn’t say how often, and explains that browsing history remains private, but it’s not clear to what extent the data is anonymized. If you don’t want to run any risks, you can just disable the option by toggling off the switch next to Ad measurement.

The post How to finally ditch Chrome and move all your data and bookmarks to another browser appeared first on Popular Science.

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Whether you’re cutting back on your streaming subscriptions or your favorite jams aren’t part of the 100-million-plus songs in Apple Music’s library, you’ve decided it’s time to end your relationship with the service.

Fortunately, your breakup doesn’t have to be messy. There are several easy ways to cancel Apple Music, no uncomfortable conversations with Apple representatives necessary—you can cancel whenever you want. Your subscription will run until the end of the current billing cycle and you won’t be charged after that point. Afterward, you’ll be back on the market, with a little more money to court Pandora, Spotify, or some other streaming music service.

A word of warning, though: Apple Music will delete your curated songs and playlists when you unsubscribe. After you cancel, Apple will retain your playlists for 30 days, but that’s it. If you change your mind and decide to rekindle your relationship with the streaming music service within that time period, you’ll be able to get all your playlists back. Otherwise, they’re gone forever and you’ll have to rebuild if you ever return.

How to cancel Apple Music through the iPhone app

1. Open the app and tap on Listen Now (if the Listen Now screen doesn’t open by default).

2. Touch the profile icon in the upper right corner of the screen to bring up all of your account information.

3. Tap Manage Subscription, then Cancel. We told you it was easy.

Cancel through the Apple Music app on an Android device

1. Tap the three-dot menu in the top right corner of the screen and select Account.

2. Scroll until you find information about your subscriptions and tap Manage Subscription.

3. Hit Cancel Subscription and approve the confirmation.

How to cancel Apple Music on a Mac

1. Click on the Apple icon in the upper left-hand corner of the screen and select System Settings.

2. From the System Settings page, click on your Apple ID, then Media & Purchases.

3. Next to Subscriptions, you should see a Manage button. Click on it to see a list of all the apps you subscribe to.

4. Scroll down until you see your Apple Music subscription, then click the Edit button next to it.

5. Click Cancel Subscription and confirm the cancellation.

Remove a subscription on an iPhone or iPad

You can cancel your Apple Music subscription the same way you would end any subscription on an iPhone or iPad, and you don’t have to go into the music app to do it.

1. Open the Settings app, then tap on your name.

2. Hit Subscriptions, which you’ll find a few lines below your name.

3. On the Subscriptions screen, you’ll see a list of all the services you currently subscribe to. It’s in alphabetical order, so you should see your Apple Music subscription near the top of the list. Tap on it when you see it.

4. Just below the Apple Music icon and pricing information you’ll see a Cancel Subscription button in red letters. Tap that to cancel your subscription.

Cancel an Apple Music subscription online

If you’d rather not work in an app, you can cancel your Apple Music subscription via any web browser.

1. Open your favorite browser and go to music.apple.com.

2. Click or tap on the sign-in button in the top right corner of your browser window. A pop-up will appear asking you to enter your Apple ID and password. Enter that information, then click Continue. Apple may also ask you to complete two-factor authentication by entering a code sent to one of your Apple devices.

3. Click the profile icon in the upper right-hand corner of the Apple Music page. Choose Settings from the drop-down menu.

4. Scroll down to the bottom of the Account Settings page and select Cancel Subscription.

How to cancel Apple Music through the Apple TV app

One of the surprisingly easy ways to end your relationship with Apple Music is through another Apple streaming service, Apple TV.

1. Open the Apple TV app on your TV and click on the gear icon near the top of your screen to enter the app’s settings.

2. Select User Accounts, which will be the line that displays your sign-in ID.

3. Choose Manage Subscriptions. The app will then ask you to enter your username and ID.

4. After you enter that information, you’ll be able to access all of your Apple subscriptions, including Apple Music. Click on Apple Music to cancel the subscription.

The post How to cancel Apple Music if it’s no longer your jam appeared first on Popular Science.

Articles may contain affiliate links which enable us to share in the revenue of any purchases made.

Finding a WiFi password may not be something you need to do very often, especially since Windows, Apple, and Android devices generally save all of that information for every network you’ve ever connected to. Sometimes, though, you may need to re-enter this login info. Maybe your computer has forgotten the password after a system update, your WiFi is having problems, or you want to share your password with a friend. Whatever the case, there’s always a way to find your WiFi password—you just need to know where to look.

How to see the WiFi password on a Mac

1. Open the System Settings app and click on Wi-Fi.

2. Scroll to the bottom of the Wi-Fi page and click Advanced.

3. Scan through the list of known WiFi networks until you find the one you want. Click on the three dots next to the network name, then hit Copy Password. You can now paste the password anywhere you can enter text to see it.

Find the WiFi password on an iPhone

This method only works if your iPhone is running iOS 16 or later.

1. Open the Settings app on your iPhone and tap the WiFi network you’re currently connected to.

2. Touch the information icon (an “i” in a circle) to view the settings for that network.

3. Tap on the password field, then enter your Apple ID and password, and/or your iPhone passcode to reveal the WiFi password.

[Related: How to create a WiFi hotspot on your phone or computer]

How to find the WiFi password on Windows 10 and 11

1. Open Settings, then click on Network & Internet.

2. This step is slightly different depending on if you’re using Windows 10 or 11.

• Windows 10: Click on Change Adapter Options.
• Windows 11: Click on Advanced Network Settings, then More Network Adapter Options.

3. Double-click the network you’re connected to, then choose Wireless Properties, and click the Security tab. You’ll see a menu that includes the WiFi password (network security key) hidden under asterisks. Click the Show Characters box to reveal the password.

Use router settings to find your WiFi password

If for whatever reason you aren’t able to access the WiFi password using any of the above methods, you can try going through the router settings. Just keep in mind you’ll need the router admin’s username and password for this method to work.

1. Find your router’s IP address.

• On Windows: Open the Windows Start menu and type “cmd” to locate the Command Prompt app. Click the app, type “ipconfig”, and press Enter. The numbers behind the Default Gateway are your‌ router’s IP address.
• On macOS: Click the Apple icon in the top left corner of the screen, then choose System Settings. Click on Network, then Wi-Fi. Find the network you’re currently connected to and click on the Details button next to its name. A window will appear showing the router’s IP address.
• On iOS: Open the Settings app, then tap on Wi-Fi. Hit the information icon (the “i” in a circle) next to the WiFi network’s name. Scroll down until you see the router’s IP address.
• On Android: Open Settings and tap Network & Internet, then Internet. Tap on the wireless network you’re connected to and scroll down—you’ll see a bunch of network information, including the router’s IP address.

2. Once you know the router’s IP address, enter it into the address bar of a web browser. The router’s settings page should appear.

3. Enter the router’s username and password to gain access to its settings.

4. Navigate to the WiFi access code within the router settings. This process will vary depending on the brand and model of the router.

How to see the WiFi password on an Android device

You can easily find the WiFi password for a network you’re connected to using your Android device. You just have to generate a QR code to share the connection.

1. Open Settings, then tap on Internet.

2. Touch the cog icon next to the network you’re connected to.

• Note: You can tap on the name of any known network on the list, even if you’re not connected to it, but you’ll only be able to see a network’s password if you’ve previously saved those credentials to your device. 

3. On the next screen, tap Share and go through the authentication process—depending on what you’ve set up, your device will require you to input your PIN, pattern, or biometrics. Once it’s complete, the WiFi network’s password will appear under the QR code.

Find a WiFi password for a previously connected network

Although it’s easier to find the WiFi password of a network you’re connected to, it’s still possible to dredge up the login info for one you’ve hooked up to in the past. The work you have to do, though, will vary depending on the device.

Locate previous WiFi passwords on a Mac

Since the macOS operating system stores passwords in the Keychain Access app, it’s easy to find all of your previous network passwords on a MacBook.

1. Click the magnifying glass in the top right corner of your screen and type in “keychain access”. Click the name of the app when it appears.

2. Type the name of the WiFi network you want, then click on it when it shows up.

3. Click on the Show Password box, then enter your Mac’s administrator username and password to reveal the WiFi password you’re looking for.

See older WiFi passwords on Windows 10 and 11

It’s not not as easy to find a password for a network you’ve previously connected to on Windows, but it is possible. The process is the same whether you’re running Windows 10 or 11.

1. Open the Start menu and look for the Command Prompt program. Right-click on it, select Run As Administrator, and click Yes to confirm this is what you want to do.

2. To see a list of the networks you’ve previously connected to, type in the following command: netsh wlan show profile. Hit Enter.

3. Once you’ve spotted the desired network, enter the command again, followed by the network name and the command key=clear. So, if the name of the network is “mywifi,” the command should be: netsh wlan show profile mywifi key=clear.

4. If it works—and it might not work if the WiFi profile or password isn’t on your system anymore—you’ll see a list of network information and will find the WiFi password next to Key Content.

Find previous WiFi passwords on an iPhone

You can locate the WiFi password for any previously connected network on your iPhone but only if it’s running on iOS 16 or later.

1. Start by opening the Settings app and tapping Wi-Fi.

2. Tap the Edit button in the upper right-hand corner of the screen. Enter your password or use facial recognition to continue.

3. Scroll through the list of WiFi networks until you find the one you want. Tap the i button next to the name of the WiFi network, then click Password to reveal the password.

How to find previous WiFi passwords on an Android device

The steps for finding the WiFi password for a network you previously connected to are almost exactly the same on Android as locating the login info for one you’re already using. You just have to generate a QR code to share the connection.

1. Open Settings, then tap on Internet.

2. Touch the cog icon next to the network you want to find the password for.

• Note: You’ll only be able to see a network’s password if you’ve previously saved those credentials to your device. 

3. On the next screen, tap Share and go through the authentication process—depending on what you’ve set up, your device will require you to enter your PIN, pattern, or biometrics. Once it’s complete, the WiFi network’s password will appear under the QR code.

FAQs

The post How to find a WiFi password, whether you’re connected to the network or not appeared first on Popular Science.

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You probably know Spotify as a music streaming service, but you may not know exactly how robust its audiobook offerings are. At the time of writing, you can listen to more than 350,000 titles, and you can access them through the Spotify app in the US, Canada, the UK, Ireland, Australia, and New Zealand.

Audiobooks have been integrated pretty neatly into the Spotify user interface, so you can search for titles, add them to your library, and play audiobooks just as you would with podcasts and songs. You don’t have to dig deep to find audiobooks on Spotify, and getting started is straightforward.

How to find and buy audiobooks on Spotify

Depending on the whims of the Spotify algorithm, you may see audiobooks recommended to you as soon as you open up the app. You should also see an Audiobooks link, alongside Music and Podcasts & Shows, up at the top of the Home tab in the mobile app.

Follow any of these audiobook-related links to find titles, or open up the Search tab. Before you type anything into the search box, you should see an Audiobooks thumbnail underneath that will take you to the audiobook catalog. As with music, you’ll get a variety of recommendations, split into categories.

These categories change all the time, but you might see free or new audiobooks highlighted, or books that have been developed into movies, for example. Tap or click on any title to see information about it, including how much it costs, what its running time is, the average star rating left by other users, and who narrates it. In some cases, there will be a sample audio clip you can listen to.

[Related: 7 nifty Audible tips for your audiobook needs]

From the browsing we’ve done, Spotify’s audiobook pricing seems to range from completely free to up to $50 or so. Tap or click Get on a free audiobook to add it to your library, or Buy on a paid-for audiobook. Note that payments are all managed through the web, so if you’re using the mobile or desktop app, you’ll be redirected to a website.

By default, Spotify will suggest that you pay for audiobooks using a payment method you’ve used before, or one associated with your subscription, but you can change this if required. Audiobooks work independently from Spotify Premium subscriptions, too—you don’t need to be a subscriber to buy audiobooks, and if you are a subscriber you won’t get any titles bundled in with your monthly fee.

How to listen to audiobooks in Spotify

After you’ve purchased an audiobook on Spotify, you’ll find it in your library. On the desktop and the web, click the Audiobooks link at the top of the left-hand navigation pane, and on mobile tap Your Library, then Audiobooks. Click or tap Recents at the top to sort the audiobooks by the date they were added, the date they were published, author, or in alphabetical order.

You can actually add audiobooks to this list before buying them, too. On audiobook listing pages, you’ll see a plus symbol—click this to add the title to your library. You won’t be able to listen to it until you’ve purchased it, but it’s a handy way to shortlist audiobooks that you’re interested in.

Once you’ve selected an audiobook from your library, tap or click the play button to get it started. On the playback interface, you’ll see the same play/pause and skip buttons as you do with music—though the skip buttons let you jump between audiobook chapters, rather than between tracks on a playlist. The other controls match the controls for podcasts: You can skip forward or backward 15 seconds, and change the playback speed (from 0.5x to 3.5x).

[Related: Where to find new Spotify playlists when you don’t want to make your own]

It’s impossible to add audiobooks to playlists, but you can add them to the current queue, albeit in a rather clumsy way: You have to click the three dots next to an individual audiobook chapter (desktop and web) or tap and hold on a chapter (mobile) to find the Add to queue option. There’s no way to add entire audiobooks to the queue, which seems a bit of an oversight on Spotify’s part.

You can download audiobooks for offline listening whether you pay for Spotify or not—just tap or click on the downward arrow on the audiobook page. On mobile, you can also pin audiobooks to the top of the list in the Your Library tab. To do this, tap and hold on the audiobook you want to pin, then choose Pin audiobook from the menu that pops up.

The post How to listen to Spotify’s huge library of audiobooks appeared first on Popular Science.

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Ever get the feeling that someone is watching you? Smartphone technology has revolutionized our lives but raised concerns about privacy. Location sharing, for example, can help us by letting navigation apps and ride-sharing services know where our devices (and usually us, too) are. However, sharing your location can lead to issues involving privacy, security, and even faster battery drain, especially if you don’t know it’s happening.

Thankfully, you can adjust your iPhone’s privacy settings to turn off location sharing, or at least minimize the amount of tracking information you’re sending elsewhere. This will allow you to control the data collected and shared with apps and services, and disabling Location Services is quick and easy on iOS. 

How to turn off location on an iPhone

1. Open the Settings app, then click on Privacy & Security.

2. Select Location Services.

3. Turn off the green toggle switch to the right of Location Services at the top of the screen.

4. Confirm that you want to disable location sharing by tapping Turn Off in the pop-up menu. Turning off Location Services will turn off location sharing for all apps on your iPhone at once.

• Note: Disabling Location Services will also make it unlikely that someone will be able to track your phone, if you’re worried about that.

How to turn off a hidden location option in your iPhone’s System Services

Buried among all the other options in the iPhone’s Location Services menu is System Services, and the options there are both important and easily overlooked. Disabling all or some of these will help you ensure greater privacy, increased battery life, and that it’s harder for companies and people to track your location.

[Related: Hidden iPhone settings that feel like secrets]

For the purposes of this guide, though, we’re focusing only on a feature called Significant Locations, which tracks where your device goes in an effort to figure out which places are particularly important to you.

1. Go to the Settings app, tap Privacy & Security, and select Location Services. Scroll down to the bottom of the page and select System Services.

2. Find Significant Locations and toggle off the switch next to it.

How to hide your location on an iPhone

Hiding your location on an iPhone is similar to turning off Location Services entirely. To hide your location from specific apps, such as Apple’s Find My app, follow the first three steps from above. After tapping on Location Services, scroll down to find the app that you don’t want to access your location (Find My, in our example). You can then turn off Location Services for that specific app (choose Never), or select While Using to limit its access to your location data.

You may have heard that airplane mode will hide your location, but it won’t—not entirely, at least. Airplane mode turns off all wireless connections on your iPhone, including cellular data, WiFi, and Bluetooth, so your phone won’t be able to share your location that way. But Location Services uses GPS, which operates independently, so some apps and services may still be able to see your device’s location while your phone is in airplane mode.

How to temporarily stop sharing your location on an iPhone

You can enable the Do Not Disturb mode to temporarily stop sharing your location on your iPhone. To do so, swipe down from the top right corner of your screen (or up from the bottom on older models) to open the Control Center. There, you will see a crescent moon icon representing Do Not Disturb. Tap on it to turn the mode on or off. When enabled, this feature will stop your device from sending location updates to apps and contacts.

As mentioned above, you can also manually turn off location sharing for specific apps by going to the Location Services settings and individually adjusting the permissions for each app. 

How to pull your iPhone location history from a computer

You can view your iPhone’s location history on a computer via iCloud’s Find My app. 

On your phone, go to the Settings app and tap on your Apple ID at the top. Then, select Find My and ensure the toggle next to Find My iPhone is turned on. Only then will the following steps work.

1. Log in to iCloud.com using your Apple ID and password.

2. From there, click the Find iPhone icon and select your device. You can view your iPhone’s location history on a map and access other features, such as remotely locking or erasing your device.

FAQs

The post How to turn off your location on an iPhone to stay under the radar appeared first on Popular Science.

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Think back to how you felt turning on your phone for the first time. That sparkling, uncluttered interface, speedy performance, and plenty of possibilities. You can actually feel that again whenever you like by completing a full factory reset of your iPhone or Android.

Resetting a phone is about more than just getting a fresh start, though: It can fix persistent bugs, get rid of unwanted apps and dangerous malware, and free up storage space on your device.

And if you’re worried about losing everything, don’t be. As long as you take some time to consider the potential pitfalls and back up your phone beforehand, you can reset your phone without losing any data. Let us guide you.

Before you reset your phone, make a plan

Resetting a phone wipes it clean and takes you back to the setup stage, so you’ll need to make sure you’ve backed up all your important data first. We’ve covered this in plenty of depth elsewhere, but it’s worth dropping some quick pointers here.

Mostly, backups are common sense: Think about what you have on your phone and make sure you have copies of everything you want to save on another device, on a disk drive, or in the cloud before you hit that reset button.

A warning if you use two-factor authentication

If you use your phone to prove your identity for accounts with two-factor authentication (2FA), know that this data might disappear when you reset it. You’ll need to make absolutely sure you can still get into your online accounts without 2FA, albeit temporarily.

What this means in practice will depend on your 2FA-enabled accounts and the 2FA method you’re using for each one. Do some diligent research and you should have nothing to worry about. Some accounts will give you backup codes to use if 2FA fails, so if you get one, make sure it’s in a safe, accessible place. For other accounts, it might be easier to just disable 2FA until you’re all set up on your phone again.

Apple and Google both let you use SMS codes as a backup to a 2FA authenticator app and verification code, so that’s an option (assuming you are keeping your SIM after you reset your phone). Beyond that, other authentication apps let you back up your logins to the cloud, which might work best for you, or you could transfer your authenticator app and its codes to another phone or tablet if you have one spare.

[Related: How to do two-factor authentication like a pro]

Once you’ve decided to reset your phone, you should also spend a few days noting exactly how you use it and how easily you’ll be able to get everything back the way you like it. Most software developers know phones get reset, lost, or stolen on a regular basis, so they should have planned for that, but it’s best to make sure.

Bear in mind, too, that backing up your phone can take time, depending on the speed of your connection.

How to reset an Android phone

Google has always developed its software with the cloud in mind, and everything from Gmail to Google Photos lives mostly online. However, you should still make sure that everything you need is in the cloud and that you don’t need anything stored on your phone (such as files downloaded from the web).

It’s also worth double-checking that your password manager is syncing all of your credentials from the apps on your phone—go to Settings, Passwords & accounts, and make sure the toggle next to Automatically sync app data is on. With that done, all you’ll need to remember is the username and password for your Google account. Don’t worry about having to pay for apps you already own—the Play Store will recognize you once you’ve signed into your Google account and will know what you’ve previously purchased.

You’ll find Android’s own backup process under System and Backup in Settings. You’ll then see a list of the items you’ll be backing up, which should include data such as contacts, text messages, and certain device settings (including WiFi passwords). You can tap on some of them (like Photos and videos or Google account data) to get more details and customize what you want to add to or remove from your backup. If you have any doubts about leaving information behind, we recommend reading through the official Google support document for resetting Pixel phones.

When you’re ready to reset your phone, make sure it’s plugged in and charging so the process doesn’t get interrupted. Open Settings, then choose System, Reset options, and Erase all data (factory reset). Android will then show you an overview of the data you’re about to wipe. Tap Erase all data, enter the lock screen PIN code, and tap Erase all data again to start the reset process. Once the reset is complete, you’ll find yourself back at the Android setup process.

How to reset an iPhone

Traditionally, Apple hasn’t been quite as savvy as Google when it comes to constantly syncing data to the cloud, but iCloud has improved in recent years. It can now store a substantial amount of information for you (from contacts to calendars) while you’re busy resetting your phone. When it comes time to reinstall apps, Apple’s App Store will remember what you’ve paid for, so you won’t need to purchase them again.

As for backups, iOS has a comprehensive backup option, which uses either a computer or iCloud. If you open Settings, tap your Apple ID at the top, and then pick iCloud, you can see the apps sending data to the web. You can also choose iCloud Backup from this list to make sure a backup occurred right before you decided to reset your phone.

[Related: The best ways to back up all your photos to the cloud]

Before you proceed, you should also read Apple’s thorough support document on resetting iPhones, just to ensure you’ve done everything necessary. That document also covers how to back up your phone if you need extra help with that (iOS will actually prompt you to create a backup when you reset it, if you haven’t run one in a while).

Finally, get your phone plugged in and charging to make sure the reset isn’t interrupted, then open Settings and pick General, Transfer or Reset iPhone, and choose whether you want to Reset the device or Erase All Content and Settings. You’ll be prompted to enter the passcode for your phone and possibly your Apple ID password to confirm your choice (this is a good way to ensure you remember your Apple ID password, as you’ll need it to sign in again). After the reset, your iPhone will reboot to the setup screen.

This story has been updated. It was originally published in 2021.

The post How to reset your phone without losing everything appeared first on Popular Science.

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I’ve been wanting to ditch Google Maps for a while but one thing held me back: offline maps. Apple Maps was, until recently, basically useless without an internet connection, and since I like to hike (which involves traveling to places without a cell signal) I was stuck with Google. 

No longer. One of the best new iOS 17 features is offline maps for Apple Maps. You can now select areas to download to your phone, allowing you to use turn-by-turn navigation and even search without an internet connection. 

Note that iOS 17 is currently a public beta. You can sign up for it to test the latest features, but you should know that signing up for any beta program is not without risk. If having a sneak peek at Apple’s new operating system version is not worth running into the occasional bug or error, then maybe you should wait until the official release in October 2023. But if you’re already using iOS 17, let’s dive in. 

How to download maps on Apple Maps

To get started, open Apple Maps, tap the circle with your photo or initials to the right of the search box and  choose Offline Maps in the menu. On the next screen, go to Download New Map. 

[Related: 5 uses for Google Maps beyond navigation]

Apple Maps will ask you to type the name of the city, region or general area you want to download. The app will show you a preview of the map you looked for and a cropping box which you can resize to select how much of it you want to download—just pinch to zoom in or out and select a bigger or smaller area. 

Bigger maps will take up more storage space, and you’ll be able to see how much at the bottom of the screen. If you’ll be covering a large area, be sure to free up space on your iPhone. When you’re satisfied, tap Download and your device will do its thing.

[Related: How to hide your house on every map app]

By default, your iPhone will only download offline maps while you’re connected to a Wi-Fi network, but if you need to, you can change that by tapping the Downloads option in the offline maps settings. To make sure you always have the latest possible information, Apple Maps will periodically and automatically update your offline maps, though the company doesn’t say how often the app will do this. If you’re not planning on using your downloaded map again, you can turn these automatic updates off in the settings. Finally, if you’re the sort of person who forgets to delete offline maps after a vacation and then wonders why their phone never has any available storage, you can turn on an optional Optimize Storage toggle switch, which will delete maps that you’re not using anymore after a certain period of time. 

The offline maps feature makes Apple Maps a true competitor to Google Maps, especially after you transfer your pinned items over. I’m not sure if I’ll ever install Google Maps on my iPhone again. 

The post How to use Apple Maps offline and finally ditch Google appeared first on Popular Science.

Articles may contain affiliate links which enable us to share in the revenue of any purchases made.

Sonoma, the upcoming version of macOS, has some really cool features, including the ability to put widgets on the desktop. But the OS update also has one confounding change: clicking the desktop, by default, now hides all of your windows.

This is very annoying, but there’s a certain logic to it: if your desktop is full of widgets and files, you might want a quick way to access everything on it. But just because something makes sense from a design point of view, doesn’t mean you’re going to get used to it or even like it. Sonoma spares you of the windows’ exodus when you click a file or a widget, but I still found this feature disorienting, and I’m sure I’m not alone. The good news is that you can turn it off. 

[Related: 4 tips and hidden settings that will speed up macOS]

1. Head to System Settings, which you can open by clicking the Apple logo in the top left corner of your screen and clicking System Settings, or by opening the app with the cog icon in the dock. 

2. Go to Desktop & Dock in the left sidebar. 

3. Scroll down to find the Click wallpaper to reveal desktop option. Set this to Only in Stage Manager. 

4. Turn off Stage Manager. 

Stage Manager is one of the features Apple added to macOS Ventura back in 2022 and it’s an alternative way to manage the open windows on your Mac. When you enable this feature, only one window shows up on the screen at a time, while the rest are thumbnails you can see to the left. But clicking the desktop when Stage Manager is enabled means the desktop hides every time you click it no matter what, so you’re going to want to disable this feature to get your old desktop back.

[Related: Master your Mac by creating custom keyboard shortcuts]

After you’ve tweaked these settings, your desktop should work the way you’re used to, meaning you can get back to using your computer just like you’ve always had. That is until the next weirdness Apple decides to add. 

The post Stop macOS Sonoma from hiding your windows when you click the desktop appeared first on Popular Science.

Articles may contain affiliate links which enable us to share in the revenue of any purchases made.

Canva is a graphic design software package available on the web, desktop and mobile, and it can help you make just about anything: from websites, documents, and whiteboards, to presentations, social media posts, posters, and newsletters. You can use the platform for free, but if you pay $15 a month, you’ll have access to more templates and stock content, and more advanced tools. 

Whatever you use Canva for, some tips will help you find more to explore. We’ll focus on the web interface, but you can find the same or similar features in the mobile and desktop apps too.

1. Switch the style up

In the toolbar pane on the left, click Design and then Styles to change up the look of your Canva creation: You’ll have a range of color schemes and font sets to pick from, organized into categories like Modern and Professional.

[Related: 5 ways to get started with Freeform, Apple’s app for creative thinkers]

Click on any style to apply it and see how it looks. All of the text and images you’ve put in place won’t change, but this feature is a quick and easy way to freshen up your layout without effort—especially if you’re stuck for inspiration.

2. Animate design elements

If whatever you’re working on is going to be viewed on a screen rather than in physical, printed form, you can take advantage of animations. Select any item or group of items in your design, and click Animate at the top to see your options. Pro subscribers will be able to do more, and get the ability to adjust the speed and direction of the animation.

Choose an animation style to see a preview.  When used well, adding animations to your presentation or website can really catch the eye, but be wary of overdoing them.

3. Leave comments for yourself (or others)

Right-click on any element on the page, and choose  Comment to attach text to different parts of your design, together with emojis and stickers. It’s a handy way of leaving reminders or notes to yourself.

Canva’s commenting feature is also useful when you’re collaborating with other people or sharing your designs. Everyone with access to the file will be able to access the comments, and you can @ mention other users to get their attention—they’ll get a notification telling them you’ve assigned them a task or have a comment for them they cannot miss.

4. Get everything positioned correctly

Having misaligned design elements can really hurt the visual aesthetic of your Canva creation, but there are tools available to make sure that doesn’t happen. To begin with, you can right-click on any item and choose Align to page to set its location in relation to the digital canvas as a whole.

There’s also a Position button in the toolbar at the top: Click it to set an element’s place down to the exact pixel. If you have multiple items selected (Shift+Click to select one by one or drag over them all using the mouse) you’ll also be able to quickly position them in relation to each other.

5. Pick out a color from anywhere

Select an element in your canvas to pick a color for it—just click the color swatch on the left of the toolbar. You’ll have a wide range of colors to choose from, but if you click the multicolored button with a + (plus) sign on it, you’ll access the color picker tool—it’s the one with a little pipette icon on it.

Use this feature to choose a color from anywhere on the design—you’ll even get a little zoomed-in grid to help you be as precise as possible. In fact, you can pick up a color from anywhere on your computer screen, so you can sample colors from websites or images you’ve got open in other tabs or have saved to your local hard drive without importing them to Canva.