Sure, you could buy a bunch of gifts for everyone you know this holiday season. Or, you could buy yourself an awesome 3D printer and manufacture everyone’s gift. Imagine marching into your boss’s office and plunking down a tiny statue of yourself. Or treating your mom to a tiny car spoiler she can attach to the back of her Crocs. It’s all possible and you can save money by taking advantage of these 3D printer Black Friday deals.

If you need help choosing a printer, check out some of our helpful guides including the best 3D printer for beginners and the best 3D printer under $1,000.

Anycubic 3D Printer Kobra 2 Max $499 (was $699)

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This is a 3D printer you can grow into. It offers a total print size of 17.7 x 15.7 x 15.7 inches, which allows for all sorts of extra-large creations. You can churn out masks, lightsabers, or pretty much anything your heart desires. This model does come with a bit of a learning curve, but it’s a great machine if you don’t mind putting some work into it.

Creality 3D printer deals

• Official Creality Ender 3 Max Neo 3D Printer $269 (was $359)
• Official Creality Ender 3 3D Printer $168 (was $232)
• Creality Official 3D Printer Ender-5 S1 $355 (was $549)
• Official Creality Ender 5 S1 3D Printer $320 (was $579)
• Creality K1 Max 3D Printer $743 (was $1,099)
• Creality CR 10 SE 3D Printer $359 (was $499)
• Creality Official 3D Printer Ender-5 S1 $355 (was $549)
• Creality Resin 3D Printer HALOT-MAGE PRO $503 (was $629)
• Creality K1 3D Printer $415 (was $519)
• Creality 3D Printer Ender 3 S1 Plus with CR Touch Auto Leveling $399 (was $499)

Anycubic 3D printer deals

• ANYCUBIC Photon Mono M5s 12K Resin 3D Printer $429 (was $719)
• ANYCUBIC Kobra 2 Neo 3D Printer $159 (was $289)
• ANYCUBIC Photon Mono M5s 12K Resin 3D Printer $429 (was $719)
• ANYCUBIC 3D Printer Kobra 2 Neo $159 (was $279)
• Anycubic Kobra 2 Pro 3D Printer $279 (was $449)
• ANYCUBIC Kobra 2 Neo 3D Printer $159 (was $289)
• ANYCUBIC Resin 3D Printer, Photon Mono 2 3D Printer $149 (was $249)
• ANYCUBIC Photon Mono 2, Resin 3D Printer $149 (was $269)
• Anycubic Kobra Max 3D Printer, Large 3D Printer with Auto Leveling $419 (was $699)
• ANYCUBIC Photon Mono X2 Resin 3D Printer $229 (was $369)

Anker 3D printer deals

• AnkerMake M5 3D Printer $499 (was $799)
• AnkerMake M5C 3D Printer $319 (was $399)

Elegoo 3D printer deals

• ELEGOO Resin 3D Printer Mars 3 MSLA 3D Printer $119 (was $224)

Flashforge 3D printer deals

• FLASHFORGE 3D Printer Adventurer 3 Pro with Glass Heating Bed $319 (was $399)

Bambu Labs 3D printer deals

• Bambu Lab P1S 3D Printer $849 (was $949)
• Bambu Lab X1 Carbon 3D Printer $1,049 (was $1,199)
• Bambu Lab X1-Carbon Combo 3D Printer $1,299 (was $1,299 (was $1,449)
• 30% OFF 4+ Rolls, 40% OFF 8+ Rolls on PLA Basic, PLA Matte, PETG Basic, ABS
• 20% OFF 4+ Rolls, 30% OFF 8+ Rolls on all other filaments

The post Shop these Black Friday 3D printer deals and print all your holiday gifts appeared first on Popular Science.

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ENERGY NEVER STOPS radiating through space, or on Earth. For more than a decade, hundreds of millions of samples from the never-ending deluge of protons, nuclei, and other atomic debris have collected in the International Space Station’s cosmic ray bucket—an instrument called the Alpha Magnetic Spectrometer. Here at home, cloud chambers—like those used by CERN, the Switzerland-based European Organization for Nuclear Research—illuminate the universe’s invisible cosmic storm.

In March 1951, longtime Popular Science contributor Kenneth M. Swezey treated space enthusiasts and DIYers to a step-by-step guide to making a cloud chamber, using a peanut butter jar. “The secret of any cloud chamber is a supersaturated vapor,” Swezey wrote. “As atomic particles dart through this vapor, they condense molecules in their path, leaving visible droplets—like vapor trails of high-flying aircraft.”

The first cloud chamber was devised by physicist Charles Thomas Rees Wilson in 1895 to reproduce the airborne puffs and study their behavior. By 1910, he’d begun spying the trails of charged particles, which ionized the supersaturated air and caused water droplets to form. At about the same time, physicist Victor Hess determined that charged particles, which he dubbed cosmic rays, were entering Earth’s atmosphere from space, a discovery that earned him a Nobel Prize in 1936.

Despite their ubiquity, the origins of those celestial sparks remain a mystery, although supernovas and ordinary stars like our sun are suspected to be prime sources. Beams of energy collide with atoms in Earth’s upper atmosphere, spawning charged subatomic particles like pions, muons, electrons, and positrons, whose ionized trails show up as spindly lines in cloud chambers. Radiation here on Earth also generates cosmic rays.

When Swezey offered up his home chamber in the 1950s, its use seemed somewhat practical. Fears of nuclear war, spurred by the worsening Cold War, dominated headlines. A homemade cloud chamber can detect atomic particles from nearby explosions, not to mention alpha particles, a product of radioactive decay from sources like radon gas, and gamma rays from radium, which was still being painted onto watch dials until the 1970s.

To view the cosmic ray storm, start with a glass or plastic jar—the bigger the better. A dark background, such as black felt glued inside the base and lid, will enhance the experience. Saturate the material at the base with rubbing alcohol, close the lid, and place the jar upside down on a bed of dry ice. As the apparatus cools, vapor forms. Turn off the lights, then shine a flashlight through the jar. Thin lines should appear, some perfectly straight (high-energy muons, big enough to plow through the jar), others zigzagging (electrons and positrons, so small they pinball off surrounding particles), and still others like eraser smudges (radon-spawned alpha particles, heavy and highly charged so they gather an ionic entourage).

Our 1951 cloud chamber recipe will still work today, although CERN offers an updated instructional video that uses the same essential ingredients. Can’t find dry ice? Ready-made cloud chambers will work at regular freezer temperatures. All you need is nearly pure ethanol and hot water to generate the cloud (and a few hundred extra dollars to cover the equipment costs).

This story originally appeared in the High Issue of Popular Science. Read more PopSci+ stories.

The post How to trap cosmic rays in a jar like it’s 1951 appeared first on Popular Science.

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Best cordless drill		DEWALT 20V Cordless Drill		SEE IT	This powerful drill can reach speeds of up 1,500 rpm and features an LED light for added visibility.
Best pressure washer		Greenworks Electric Pressure Washer		SEE IT	This tool can not only wash the outside of your house, but is great for washing your car, driveway, and patio.
Best stackable toolboxes		beyond by BLACK+DECKER Stackable Storage System		SEE IT	This ingenious storage system helps DIYers organize their tools, protect them from theft, and easily transport them.

DIY is more popular than ever, with 73 percent of millennials identifying as do-it-yourselfers, according to the market research firm The Farnsworth Group. Whether your favorite DIYer is into home renovation, woodworking, or tinkering with their car, you can show your appreciation for their handiwork by rounding out their tool set with some new models. Or give them the gift of bins and boxes to help them organize all those tools (and the storage shed). These are the best gifts for DIYers our writers have used this year.

• Best cordless drill: DEWALT 20V Max Cordless Drill
• Best cordless drill-driver set: CRAFTSMAN V20 Cordless Drill Combo Kit
• Best power drill: CRAFTSMAN CMCD710C2 Power Drill
• Best mechanics tool set: DEWALT Mechanics Tool Set
• Best power tool kit: BOSCH Power Tools Combo Kit
• Best multi-tool: Ryobi 18V Multi Tool
• Best screwdriver set: Klein Tools 80031 Screwdriver Set
• Best impact driver: Milwaukee M18 Fuel Hex Hydraulic Driver Kit
• Best angle grinder: DEWALT 4-1/2” Angle Grinder
• Best jigsaw: CRAFTSMAN V20 Cordless Jig Saw
• Best chainsaw: ​​Worx Nitro 40V Chainsaw
• Best circular saw: DEWALT DCS573B Flexvolt Advantage 20V Circular Saw
• Best random orbital sander: beyond by BLACK+DECKER Random Orbit Sander
• Best heat gun: DEWALT Heat Gun Kit
• Best smart tape measure: LEXIVON 2 in 1 Digital Laser Tape Measure
• Best laser level: DEWALT Line Laser
• Best work table: WORX WX051 Pegasus Folding Work Table & Sawhorse
• Best work light: CRAFTSMAN LED Portable Work Light Bundle
• Best work gloves: Ironclad Workhorse Leather Work Gloves
• Best toolbox: DEWALT Tough System
• Best stackable toolboxes: beyond by BLACK+DECKER Stackable Storage System
• Best cordless vac: DEWALT 20V MAX Hand Vacuum
• Best shop vac: Bissell MultiClean Wet Dry Vac
• Best leaf blower: DEWALT Cordless XR Leaf Blower
• Best log splitter: Fiskars IsoCore 36-Inch Maul
• Best pressure washer: GreenWorks Pressure Washer

Best cordless drill: DEWALT 20V Max Cordless Drill

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This cordless drill is rugged and powerful enough to be worthy of a pro job site while remaining affordable enough for a gift for a DIYer. Powered by a 20-volt battery, DEWALT’s cordless drill can reach speeds of up to 1,500 rpm, making it fast enough to handle jobs that require a lot of fasteners. A slower speed option with a max of 450 rpm adds versatility and maximizes the drill’s torque output. 

At 8-1/2 inches long and weighing 3.6 pounds, this is one of the bulkier drills on the market, but DEWALT makes up for that with an ergonomic handle that makes it comfortable to hold for longer jobs. DEWALT’s drill has other useful features, including a ratcheting chuck that makes it easy to secure bits by hand and an LED light with a 20-second delay for added visibility. — Tony Carrick

Best cordless drill-driver set: CRAFTSMAN V20 Cordless Drill Combo Kit

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If you want to fill out a DIYers entire power tool library in one fell swoop, you should start with CRAFTSMAN’s V20 Cordless Drill Combo Kit. This drill set comes with all the essentials, plus a carrying case and impact driver. The star of the show is its powerful 20-volt drill, which can rotate at speeds of up to 3,400 rotations per minute. An impact driver may look like a drill, but it wraps around a screw or lag bolt to rotate them and is best suited for heavy-duty tasks. This isn’t the type of tool DIYers are likely to have in their garage already, and while you may be unfamiliar with it, its applications will become apparent as projects arise. Both of CRAFTSMAN’s tools have an LED light, which will help in dark areas—think attics or nooks and crannies in a basement or garage. — Brandt Ranj

Best power drill: Craftsman CMCD710C2 Power Drill

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We could tell the quality of Craftsman’s CMCD710C2 from the moment we took it out of its packaging, and our expectations were exceeded the first time we used it for a project. It drove screws through plaster and a wooden beam during a TV wall-mounting project like a hot knife running through butter. 

This was the most powerful power drill we tested, but it was also the heaviest. Despite its increased power, it made roughly the same amount of noise as other drills we tested—if not a little less. There’s no technical downside to using this power drill beyond its weight, but you should also consider its price. The CMCD710C2 is expensive, though it does come with a battery and charger. If you want to gift the DIYer in your life the absolute best performance from a power drill and to be safe in knowing they’ll never need to upgrade again, this is the one to get. — Brandt Ranj

Best mechanics tool set: DEWALT Mechanics Tool Set

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If you never want to buy a socket set ever again, then this is a good place to start. The sturdy carrying case includes three 72-tooth ratchets, more than 150 sockets, and a full run of hex keys. Made of steel and hand-stamped for easy identification, this set is designed to endure. It’s great for people who enjoy tinkering around with their vehicles. — Stan Horaczek and Jen McCaffery

Best power tool kit: BOSCH Power Tools Combo Kit

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If someone in your life is just getting started with DIY projects, a basic tool combo set like this one from Bosch is a great place to get started. The 12-volt set features a compact yet powerful 3/8-inch drill/driver that operates at a range of speeds up to 1,300 rpm, a lightweight reciprocating saw, a bright worklight that lasts for three hours on a single charge, two batteries, and a charger. And they all fit back nicely into the included bag. — Jen McCaffery

Best multi-tool: Ryobi 18V Multi Tool

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While it’s easy to get excited about a garage full of tools, sometimes it’s helpful to have some options that are capable of performing more than one function well. Ryobi’s 18-volt Multi-Tool is a great tool for DIYers working with various materials. Capable of up to 20,000 OPM (oscillations per minute), this tool comes with plunge cut and flush cut blades and can be used to cut metal, wood, plastic, and drywall. At 1.5 pounds, it’s relatively lightweight, and it vibrates less than comparable models. The Multi-Tool also comes with a sanding pad to help your DIYer put the finishing touches on their projects. — Jen McCaffery

Best screwdriver set: Klein Tools 80031 Screwdriver Set

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Tools don’t get much more basic than the humble screwdriver. This five-piece set from Klein Tools, which has been making tools since 1857, includes the most commonly used types: two Phillips head, two slotted, and one square-tipped screwdriver. The shanks are chrome-plated, and the tips are cut for precision. And the handles are cushioned for an easier grip. — Jen McCaffery

Best impact driver: Milwaukee M18 Fuel Hex Hydraulic Driver Kit

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Technology sets the Milwaukee M18 Fuel impact driver apart from the rest. Its hydraulic drive sustains torque better than other impact drivers, allowing it to drive faster and with more power. With so much torque, impact drivers always risk stripping out a screw head. The Milwaukee M18 solves this problem by featuring a self-tapping screw mode that helps to start the screw without stripping it out. With its four drive modes, the user can tailor the speed of this driver to suit any job. We also like the small profile of this driver. At less than 5 inches long, this driver is compact enough to fit into tight spaces, and it’s one of the quieter models on the market. Its hydraulic drive technology eliminates the metal-on-metal contact that makes other impact drivers scream like a jackhammer. — Tony Carrick

Best angle grinder: DEWALT 4-1/2” Angle Grinder

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DEWALT’s 4-½-inch angle grinder is a tough, high-quality tool aimed at those who need consistent, trouble-free performance. The 11-amp motor is the most powerful in its class, with a speed of 11,000 rpm. With the correct wheel fitted, this angle grinder will cut concrete or steel with equal ease. Although fairly slender, the tool is 12 inches long and relatively heavy, so it isn’t as maneuverable as some. It’s more a professional tool than one for the average DIY user, but keen home auto restorers and anyone taking on major remodeling could well find it worth the investment.  — Bob Beacham

Best jigsaw: CRAFTSMAN V20 Cordless Jig Saw

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A jigsaw allows users to cut curved lines, circles, and other shapes into a range of materials, including wood, metal, plastic, laminate, and more. This 20-volt model from Craftsman operates at speeds from zero to 2,500 spm (strokes per minute). It comes with three orbital settings that let the user control the aggressiveness of the cut and works with both T and U shank blades. Its beveled shoe also allows the user to cut at 45-degree angles. Plus, it features a contoured handle for a more comfortable grip. — Jen McCaffery

Best chainsaw: ​​Worx Nitro 40V Chainsaw

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Worx offers a number of very versatile tools in its Nitro series, and the chainsaw is no exception. The 16-inch bar is ideal for most typical users who don’t need to go chopping through Middle Earth-style forests. A pair of sturdy grips give both hands a comfortable place to rest and lots of control over the tool. During our testing, we chopped through tons of 3- to 4-inch sticks and some larger, full-grown trees.

With two powerful batteries installed, it quickly gets up to speed, and we barely had any issues with kicking or getting stuck. Installing and adjusting the chain is simple, and it self-lubricates as users run it, so it doesn’t require much in the way of maintenance. We spent several hours cutting away with this tool and ran into almost no issues, which is exactly what we’re looking for.  — Stan Horaczek

Best circular saw: DEWALT DCS573B Flexvolt Advantage 20V Circular Saw

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The DEWALT circular saw offers numerous user-friendly features that suit both professionals and amateurs who are prepared to invest in quality. This powerful 20V cordless model runs at 5,500 rpm, providing faster cutting than many rivals. The brushless motor maximizes battery life. Thanks to the Flexvolt Advantage system, this saw can also use DEWALT’s high-capacity 60V batteries, which the manufacturer claims can result in a 77-percent power increase. An LED light makes it easier to see cut lines and improves accuracy in low-light conditions. An electric brake stops the blade quickly, so it’s safe to put the saw down after a cut. A rafter hook, favored by framers and other carpentry trades, is also included. — Bob Beacham

Best random orbital sander: beyond by BLACK+DECKER Random Orbit Sander

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For those people who want to strip old furniture before repainting, sand lumber, or perhaps ease a sticking door, the Black+Decker could be the ideal tool. This random orbital sander may not be especially powerful, but it will get the job done. The fixed speed doesn’t give it great versatility, but it is fast enough for ripping through old paint or varnish and good for sanding store-bought softwoods. Weight is under 3 pounds, and rubberized areas make it easy to use at different angles. It comes with three sanding disks of different grits, which won’t last very long but will get the new user started, and acclimate them to how each type cuts if this is their first sander. — Bob Beacham

Best heat gun: DEWALT Heat Gun Kit

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A heat gun is a versatile tool that can help with a range of DIY and pro tasks, from thawing frozen pipes and removing tiles to repairing electrical equipment. This compact model from DEWALT comes with an LCD display that allows users to adjust the temperature within 50-degree increments. It also features built-in overload protection, and hang ring for storage, a cord protector, and a kickstand for stability. The heat gun comes with a range of attachments to fine-tune work, including a cone nozzle and fishtail surface nozzle. At 2.3 pounds, this tool is lightweight, and the handle is ergonomically designed for more comfortable use. Note that the battery and charger have to be ordered separately. — Jen McCaffery

Best smart tape measure: LEXIVON 2 in 1 Digital Laser Tape Measure

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Smart DIYers subscribe to the maxim, “Measure twice, cut once.” Lexivon’s 2-in-1 Digital Laser Tape Measure allows them to do just that. This device combines a traditional 16-foot tape measure with a laser that measures out to 130 feet. It features an LCD screen that displays measurements and is accurate up to 1/16th of an inch. Powered by two AA batteries, this tool also allows users to make stud center markings and comes with a rubberized case and belt clip. — Jen McCaffery

Best laser level: DEWALT Line Laser

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DEWALT is known for constructing well-designed, durable tools; this laser level is no exception. Like many other options, it offers both horizontal and vertical leveling. What sets this model apart is the durable construction that ensures you won’t be buying another one should it happen to take a tumble or spend time out in the rain. That’s because DEWALT protects this level with an over-molded housing that can endure drops from heights of up to a meter. It also has an IP54 rating, which means it will withstand being splashed with water. 

In addition to being ruggedly built, this laser level is also easy to use, thanks to its self-leveling capability and a versatile mounting system that’s compatible with a tripod. Its 100-foot range is ample distance for most indoor and outdoor applications. — Bob Beacham

Best work table: WORX WX051 Pegasus Folding Work Table & Sawhorse

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With all these tools, a DIYer also needs a reliable workspace. This folding work table from WORX that converts into a sawhorse fits the bill. Made of durable ABS plastic with steel reinforcements, it supports up to 300 pounds as a work table and up to 1,000 pounds at a workhorse. Yet at just 25 pounds, this work table is relatively lightweight and easy to store. It features two integrated clamps and a lower shelf that’s great for storing power tools. If your DIYer needs more workspace, these tables can also attach together to expand the work surface. — Jen McCaffery

Best work light: Craftsman LED Portable Work Light Bundle

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DIYers also need dependable lights that can illuminate dark corners when fixing things around the house or under the hood. This Craftsman work light features an LED light that provides up to 2,000 lumens of light. At just three pounds, this cheery red light is easily transportable, and it has a 5-foot power cord. The head rotates 360 degrees, so DIYers can point it in whatever direction they need light. It’s also rated IP65, so it’s safe to use in wet locations. And when the project is completed, this lamp is also great for camping, fishing, and hiking.

Best work gloves: Ironclad General Utility Work Gloves

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Reliable safety protection is essential for DIY projects. These classic work gloves from Ironclad are made of synthetic lever and feature thermoplastic protection on the fingers to protect the knuckles from impact and abrasion. The gloves have a hook-and-loop closure for a secure fit and even include a terrycloth sweat wipe at the back of the thumb. When the job is completed, these gloves are also machine-washable. 

Best toolbox: DEWALT Tough System

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The DEWALT Tool Box is a medium-sized hand-carry case that’s a great choice for home use or on a busy job site. This toolbox comes with a deep storage compartment that is large enough to fit a drill, saw, or a cordless tool battery and a charger. Sitting on top of this compartment is a removable tray where users can store hand tools, like screwdrivers, wrenches, or a hammer. 

This box is made with durable structural foam that protects against impact damage, cuts, slices, dust, and water. Made with metal locking brackets and awarded an IP65 water- and dust-resistance rating, this is an excellent option for DIYers and pros alike. — Tim Dale

Best stackable toolboxes: beyond by BLACK+DECKER Stackable Storage System

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Tools can get heavy and disorganized, especially when a DIYer needs everything from a cordless drill, hammer, tape measure, and nails to complete a job. BLACK+DECKER provides an ingenious solution with its stackable storage system. The three-piece set features a rolling tote with rubber wheels designed for power tools, a deep toolbox for hand tools, and a small organizer toolbox divided into compartments. The stackable set is designed with lockable latches, and DIYers can roll the whole set together to a job or easily remove one of the toolboxes. This unit can also double as storage, so DIYers can also set the boxes against the wall in the garage and use them there. — Jen McCaffery

Best cordless vac: DEWALT 20V MAX Hand Vacuum

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When it comes time to clean up, an easy-to-use vac is indispensable. This hand vacuum from DEWALT is designed with 20 volts of power, making it capable of removing debris and removing water. This versatile wet-dry vac comes with a half-gallon tank, a utility nozzle for targeting messes, and an extendable rubber hose. Powered by a DEWALT battery pack, this cordless vacuum is easy to transport and lightweight at 4.5 pounds. It also features a washable HEPA filter that traps more than 99 percent of dust.

Best shop vac: Bissell MultiClean Wet Dry Vac

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There’s the fun of working on a DIY project … and then there’s the cleanup. If they’d appreciate a wet-dry shop vacuum that handles anything, the Bissell MultiClean vac covers all the bases. This versatile cleaning tool comes with a variety of features and functions, including a blowing function for clearing leaves or blowing up inflatables, a wet suction tool, and a toolkit of different brushes for vacuuming various surfaces and crevices. The tank is on wheels for easy movement while vacuuming, and its balanced body keeps it from tipping over when it’s pulled. This machine is sleek and easy to use for both small at-home messes and bigger shop cleanups. — Amanda Reed

Best leaf blower: DEWALT Cordless XR Leaf Blower

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DEWALT’s cordless leaf blower offers an excellent combination of both power—courtesy of its 20V motor—and cost. This battery-powered model can push out air at up to 125 miles per hour, covering an area of 450 cubic feet per minute. A flat concentrator nozzle helps blow away heavier debris. At 5.4 pounds, this leaf blower is lightweight, and it’s designed with an ergonomic handle and also quieter than most at about 68 decibels. It is worth noting, however, that the battery generally only lasts from 15 to 20 minutes per charge — David King and Jen McCaffery

Best log splitter: Fiskars IsoCore 36-Inch Maul

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This manual log splitter is built to last with a forged, heat-treated steel head with a rust-resistant coating. Plus, the sculpted, soft-grip handle fits the contour of your hand and promises to transfer two times less shock and vibration than wood handles. The wedge-shaped maul head is specifically designed for, and highly efficient at, splitting—significantly better than the thin, relatively lightweight head of an axe. At only 7.43 pounds and requiring almost no storage space, this tool punches well above its weight. — Mark Wolfe

Best pressure washer: GreenWorks Pressure Washer

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Does your resident DIYer start to turn green when they notice the outside of the house needs a good wash? They’ll appreciate the range of the Greenworks Electric Pressure Washer. The pressure hose can extend up to 20 feet, and the 35-foot power cord is safe to use with exterior outlets. It also comes with two nozzle tips, a soap applicator, and an attachable detergent bottle for added convenience at clean-up time. This GreenWorks pressure washer blasts at an impressive 1,600 PSI to dislodge dirt and get your house looking primo once again. This pressure washer is also great for cleaning your car, fence, patio, and more. — Jeremy Helligar and Jen McCaffery

The post The best gifts for DIYers appeared first on Popular Science.

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WHEN THE HOLOGRAM of Princess Leia, projected by the little droid R2-D2, appeared in the first Star Wars movie in 1977, the hopes and dreams of 3D-viewing enthusiasts likely soared. Even though the hologram was fictional, it was a glimpse of 3D’s supposed glasses-free future—never mind that the hologram itself was viewable only in 2D (later plans to reproduce the Star Wars films in 3D fell flat after just one remake). At the time, the typical way to view images in 3D was with cardboard-stock anaglyph glasses—the type with different-colored lenses: one red, the other green, cyan, or blue. 

The problem in 1977 was that 3D glasses were utterly useless other than in theaters and with specially produced movies. (This is still true today despite past attempts to sell 3D TVs and an increase in 3D video games.) Of course, in the 1970s, multicolored shades might have jived with bell-bottoms and beads, but the glasses’ effect would have triggered a headache in bright sunshine. That’s because the lenses would interfere with what our eyes and brain already know how to do—see the world three-dimensionally, or stereoscopically.

Still, as longtime Popular Science contributor Walter E. Burton explained in a July 1954 do-it-yourself story that described how to reuse these single-use items, discardable 3D viewers can offer “lots of entertainment value” even after the movie ends. Burton’s instructions were timely. Interest in 3D films was surging in the 1950s—so much so that the decade has since been referred to as the golden age of 3D cinema. After the 1950s, enthusiasm waned, experiencing brief resurgences in the early 1980s and 2010s, the latter inspired by James Cameron’s 3D release of Avatar. But between 1952 and 1954 (when the Popular Science tutorial was published), Hollywood released more than fifty 3D films, including Westerns like Devil’s Canyon (1953), monster movies like The Creature from the Black Lagoon (1954), and the popular horror film House of Wax (1953) starring Vincent Price. By 1954, spare 3D viewers would have been easy for DIYers to come by.

3D explained

Today we associate 3D viewers with movies, but they actually got their start nearly two centuries ago, in 1838, when British scientist Charles Wheatstone debuted his stereoscope—a cumbersome tabletop contraption that rendered 2D drawings (photography was still in its infancy) in 3D. The first portable 3D viewer was invented several years later by another British scientist, David Brewster; his device resembled a clunky version of the View-Master that debuted at the New York World’s Fair in 1939 and soon became a popular children’s toy that is still available today. It would be another century after Brewster, however, before 3D viewing made it into motion pictures in earnest. Before 1952, only one major 3D movie had been produced—a black-and-white silent movie, The Power of Love, in 1922. 

To create a 3D illusion on a 2D screen, the goal is to mimic what occurs naturally in the brain. Researchers are still working out the biological mechanism that enables us to perceive depth, but it’s based on the different views from our eyes, or binocular disparity. When the brain assembles the separate 2D images, it interprets them as one image with depth.

The effect is reproduced in a theater by slightly offset simultaneous projections. For movies that rely on polarized eyewear, the projected images use polarized light. Light is an electromagnetic wave that travels primarily along two planes—vertical and horizontal. A polarized filter, or lens, blocks one of the planes, or phases. In polarized glasses, one lens blocks the vertical phase, the other the horizontal. As Burton explains in his 1954 instructions, “The two polarizers are set at right angles to each other. Cut the viewer apart, place one eyepiece in front of the other, and you’ll find that little or no light gets through.”

Light also travels in a spectrum of colors—remember ROYGBIV? For anaglyph 3D, the dual images are projected using colored filters so each image is viewable only through its matching lens (red filters will project red images viewable by the red lens, likewise for the other filter lens, which can be cyan, green, or blue), creating the same illusion of depth that our brains achieve on their own. The most common anaglyph lenses tend to pair red with cyan and magenta with green.

How to reuse 3D viewing glasses

Since the same 3D viewing glasses that were popular in the 1950s are still used in theaters today (the frames might be plastic instead of cardboard), DIYers can follow Burton’s instructions nearly seven decades later, although you might need substitutes for some household products. For instance, a pair of glasses can be turned into a kaleidoscope with the aid of two 1950s-style bouillon cube containers (tea cans might work in modern times). Cut a hole in each container cap and paste one polarized lens over each hole. Then cut a hole in the bottom of one can (you won’t need the second can for anything, only its cap) and cover that hole with clear cellophane (or plastic wrap) so light can shine through from the bottom. Drop bits of hard clear plastic inside. When the caps are stacked on top of each other as eyepieces and rotated, the bits of clear plastic will appear to change colors. 

What’s new on the 3D scene

Even though the 3D viewing experience has required the same polarized or anaglyph lenses for more than 70 years, 3D technology has advanced, especially in the last decade. One reason Avatar sparked a surge in 3D movies in the 2010s was that the film crew used new tools to ratchet up the illusion of depth, including motion-capture attire worn by the actors to offer multiple views of the same action, video game–quality computer-generated graphics designed for 3D depth, and stereoscopic cameras that captured scenes with dual images, one for each eye. Of course, on the viewing end, movie-goers still required the decades-old polarized lenses to see the effects, but the results were stunning. 

Virtual reality headsets like those from Meta, HTC, and Microsoft also offer 3D viewing. While the VR experience may be immersive and realistic, the cyborg-style headsets are not exactly practical apparel. You’re better off wearing polarized or anaglyph specs in public. Of course, 3D nirvana means no viewing accessory required. Instead, the tech would be in the displays, designed and built to render images stereoscopically. Computer makers Acer and Asus have developed such displays, but so far the effect hasn’t been compelling enough to catch on.

For now, hang on to those 3D movie specs. Burton’s instructions will still work for DIYers interested in optical projects. Perhaps you have your own contemporary ideas.

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Wood glue is a wonderful thing, but it makes quite a mess if you get it all over your workbench. I like to lay masking paper down before I glue, but it’s a bit awkward to have the roll lying around the shop. To free up some space, I built a wall-mounted paper-hanger, and it’s a design you can modify to store wrapping paper, craft paper, or really any paper that comes on a roll. Now I can pull down a sheet whenever I need one.

Not only that, but I made it entirely out of scrap wood I had leftover from our ongoing garage addition. Because it’s a perfect use for random pieces of wood, you can use any material you have that’s close to the measurements listed below—it doesn’t have to be exact. It’s also built as a shop tool—no frills or nice designs—but there are plenty of ways to fancy it up if you so desire.

Stats

• Time: 1 to 2 hours
• Cost: $0 to $30 
• Difficulty: easy

Materials

• 2 (8-to-10-inch-long) 2-by-10 boards
• 1 ( ¾-inch-diameter) wooden dowel, at least 42 inches long
• 2 (40-inch long) 1-by-4 (or 2-by-4) boards
• 2 (40-inch long) ½-inch-wide-by-¼-inch-thick boards
• Wood glue
• 1½-inch wood screws
• 2 cotter pins

Tools

• Circular saw
• Speed square
• Drill
• ⅞-inch Forstner bit
• ⅛-inch drill bit
• (Optional) hand saw

Because my workshop is mostly packed up while we build an addition, I primarily used a circular saw and drill for this project. Absolutely feel free to use a miter saw and/or table saw instead, but it’s good to remember that you can still build things with minimal tools. 

2. Drill holes in the side boards to mount the dowel. Use a ⅞-inch Forstner bit to drill these holes—you want a little bit of play around the ¾-inch dowel so it slips in and out easily. Measure each hole’s location from the front-bottom corner of each side board.

For my roll, which is 6 inches in diameter, I went up 3.5 inches from the bottom, then 3.5 inches in from the front edge to keep it entirely within the frame of the holder. If you’re using a different sized roll, adjust the measurements accordingly.

3. Cut the stretchers that connect the two side boards. The stretchers need to be long enough to leave enough room between the side boards for the paper roll to fit. You don’t want it to be a tight fit, so cut them long.

My roll, for example, is 36 inches long, and the side boards are each 1.5 inches thick, so the stretchers needed to be a minimum of 39 inches long. I cut my 1-by-4 boards to 40 inches to leave a half-inch of breathing room. A quarter-inch would’ve been fine, but any less might cause the frame to squeeze the roll and make it difficult to pull.

[Related: A woodworker’s guide for choosing the right saw for each cut]

Mark the lengths of the cuts with the speed square, then cut them out with the circular saw. 

• Pro tip: After marking the cut line with your speed square, position your circular saw at that mark. Then put your speed square back on the board, flush with the edge and pressed against the saw plate. Use the speed square as a straightedge to get a perpendicular cut that doesn’t wobble.

4. Screw and glue the stretchers to the side boards. Pre-drill the screw holes to avoid splitting the ends of the wood. You’ll want to install one stretcher on the top of the side boards, pushed all the way to the front, and the second on the back of the side boards, pushed all the way to the top. This back board will double as a nailer strip when you hang the unit.  

5. Cut the thin front boards that will hold the paper. Cutting boards this thin (40 inches long, ½ inches wide, and ¼ inch thick, in my case) with a circular saw is a little bit tricky to do well, because the vibration of the saw can cause small boards to bounce and vibrate.

One trick is to set your saw blade barely deeper than the thickness of the boards you want to cut, and then put the workpiece on top of some scrap wood rather than hanging off the edge of a work table. When you make the cut, the blade will score the board at the bottom, so make sure it’s not anything you treasure. But it will keep the thin board stable for a safer, cleaner cut.

Or you can do what I did, and cut them with a hand saw. 

6. Install the front boards. The purpose of these two thin front boards is to let the paper slide between them. They’ll hold it in place, making it easier to position the sheet while you’re cutting. You can also pull and tear the paper against them if you aren’t particular about nice, clean lines. 

Like the stretchers, glue and screw these two boards in place, pre-drilling to avoid cracks. Install one at the very bottom of the front of the unit, and the other about ⅛-inch above that, leaving a uniform space between.

7. Install a cotter pin into the end of the dowel. If the dowel is left unsecured, it’s likely to slide out of the holes as you turn the paper roll. Drill a ⅛-inch hole through the end of the dowel, perpendicular to the ground, and install a small cotter pin. This will keep it from pulling all the way through the holes. You can also use a lynch pin, but you’ll need to drill a larger hole. Likewise, you can use a small bolt and nut, but that will be a bit more time-consuming to remove.

8. Hang the paper roll holder. Locate the studs in your wall, using a stud finder if your shop walls are covered, and then pre-drill holes in the rear stretcher that match those stud locations.  Hang the project up with 1 ½-inch or longer screws.  

9. Push the paper through the front boards. Once the paper roll is hung, push the paper through the small ⅛-inch gap you left between the two thin front boards. This will allow you to pull through only the amount you want.  

I tried to make a cutter head with a razor blade that slides over the paper slot, but it only tore the paper. I couldn’t get an orientation or design that gave a clean cut. My recommendation is to keep a pair of scissors handy, or tear the paper along the edge of the wood. 

What you won’t need handy are paper towels to clean up your glue mess when you’re done clamping projects. A clean project, in more ways than one.

The post Clear some space for more projects by building this wall-mounted paper dispenser appeared first on Popular Science.

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“I always build things,” says Dan Hryhorcoff. 

Case in point: Hryhorcoff has constructed an absolutely delightful giant bumper car, a project that he says began during the pandemic. The rest of us may have baked bread as COVID came down the pike, but Hryhorcoff, who lives in northeastern Pennsylvania and has also built a submarine, constructed an enormous blue bumper car. It gets its propulsion from a repurposed Chevrolet engine and is street-legal. 

Before he constructed the big bumper car, Hryhorcoff had made a different vehicle, starting on it around 2013 or so. “When I retired, I decided I kind of wanted to build a car,” he recalls. For that project, he chose to focus on a 1950s pedal car for children called a Murray “sad face.” “I decided to copy that and make a large one.” (Those Murray models have a front that does indeed look like a sad face, but anyone who sees Hryhorcoff’s work will probably smile.) 

Creating that big red vehicle provided him with further experience working with fiberglass, a material he had also worked with when building the submarine. “I had a lot of fun with that [Murray car] at car shows and things, and it got a lot of attention from a broad audience,” he says.

“Then COVID hit,” he adds. He wanted a new project. His thinking? “Another car project would be good.” 

Building the big bumper car

He settled on a bumper car. To get the source material he needed for the project, he turned to an amusement park in Elysburg, Pennsylvania called Knoebels, and the bumper cars they have there. Specifically, he focused on the 1953-model bumper car that was made by a company called Lusse. He liked that it had a “Chevrolet pickup truck sorta look” from the 1950s. 

“I decided to copy one of those,” he says. Spending some eight hours at Knoebels gave him the chance to get the information he needed. “I measured, and took photos, and made templates, and whatever I needed to, to copy the car as well as I can.” He chose to make his version of the car double the size of the base model. As the Scranton Times-Tribune noted in a story about Hryhorcoff in July, the bumper car ride at Knoebels dates back to the immediate post-World-War-II era.

[Related: This Florida teen is making a business out of rebuilding old-school auto tech]

Inside, the big bumper car’s power plant comes from a Chevrolet Aveo. “I took the front of the Aveo, and chopped it off, and put that in the back of the bumper car,” he explains. “And the front of the bumper car is a motorcycle wheel.” That single wheel up front means it can turn very sharply. The exterior is made out of fiberglass. All told, it measures 13 feet long, 7 feet wide, and 5.5 feet tall, making it twice the size of a regular bumper car. A pole in the back mimics the way actual bumper cars get their electricity, except this one connects to nothing. 

A project like this would likely be a bumpy ride for anyone without the experience that Hryhorcoff, 72, brings to the table. “I learned to run a lathe when I was 13 years old, with my dad, and he was kind of a jack-of-all-trades,” he recalls. (A lathe is a tool for forming metal into a round shape, and a wood lathe is the kind of equipment you could use to make a baseball bat.) He built a go-cart, tinkered with lawn mowers, and learned about auto repair in a garage. His interest, as he describes it, was “all around mechanical.” 

He spent four years after high school in the Navy in the early 1970s, where he worked stateside and repaired radios for F-4 jets, and then studied mechanical engineering at Penn State. After working for a drilling company, he started his own machine shop called Justus Machine. 

Always diving into something new

The submarine he built came from plans for a K350 model purchased from George Kittredge, and is called Persistence. “I knew I was building something that wasn’t gonna kill me, if I build it correctly,” he says. (Watch a video of the sub in action here.) That sub has gone as deep as 540 feet with no one on board, Hryhorcoff says, and he’s taken it down himself to about 150 feet deep. 

[Related: How does a jet engine work? By running hot enough to melt its own innards.]

Hryhorcoff describes himself as an engineer, not an artist, and prefers to follow plans and undertake projects in which he knows any challenges he might face are surmountable. “Any project I’ve ever chose was a project that I knew I can get through it, but I had something new to learn in the process,” he says. “There were always some unknowns.” But those unknowns, he adds, were within the realm of doable for him and his equipment, even if he had to learn new stuff along the way.

“I’d rather big projects, rather than a dozen little ones,” he adds. 

Watch a short video about Hryhorcoff and this project, below:

The post This giant bumper car is street-legal and enormously delightful appeared first on Popular Science.

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Best Overall		Brother XM2701 Sewing Machine		SEE IT	This model is a solid, mechanical sewing machine that offers automated functioning for multiple sewing purposes.
Best Budget		Brother LX3817 Sewing Machine		SEE IT	Here’s a mechanical model that won’t stress the wallet while it offers versatile functioning and ease of use.
Best Computerized		Brother XR9550 Sewing and Quilting Machine		SEE IT	A computerized machine with 165 built-in stitch options along with push-button stitch selection and automated functions.

A great Brother sewing machine meets users’ needs and provides years of dependable service. Throughout its 115-year history, Brother Industries has developed into a global leader in sewing machine design, innovation, and manufacturing. Currently, the company offers one of the most advanced line-ups of innovative machinery for home-sewing pursuits. Its models include reliable sewing machines for basic projects and state-of-the-art, computerized models designed for advanced embroidery, quilting, and crafting. Consumers rely on the best Brother sewing machines to provide quality, value, and features for both utilitarian and creative purposes. Here are our picks of the best Brother sewing machines in the company’s impressive line-up.

• Best overall: Brother XM2701 Sewing Machine
• Best computerized: Brother XR9550 Sewing and Quilting Machine
• Best for embroidery: Brother SE1900 Sewing and Embroidery Machine
• Best for beginners: Brother CP60X Computerized Sewing Machine
• Best for quilting: Brother XR3774 Sewing and Quilting Machine
• Best budget: Brother LX3817 Sewing Machine

How we chose the best Brother sewing machines

We drew on personal experience, peer suggestions, and public opinion in selecting six Brother sewing machines for our recommendations. We then narrowed it down to 11 different models and accessed the in-depth product details and specifications available on the Brother-USA company website. Then, we selected Brother products that are easily available and read the product descriptions, user impressions, and FAQs on retailer sites. Knowing that various readers bring an array of needs, preferences, and monetary resources to the search, we tried to assemble a diverse assortment of Brother sewing machines for our list.

We considered both computerized and mechanical sewing machines. Although the computerized models exhibit advanced technological features, many users prefer simple operating procedures and easy maintenance of mechanical machines. Additionally, we looked for both computerized and mechanical models that provide automated processes such as needle threading and buttonhole making, as these features make sewing easier and more pleasurable.

The best Brother sewing machines: Reviews & Recommendations

Brother Industries Ltd. (the company that manufactures Brother sewing machines) traces its history back more than 100 years. In 1908, Kanekichi Yasui founded the Yasui Sewing Machine Company, working at his home in Nagoya, Japan. He repaired industrial sewing machines and manufactured machine parts for local use. When Yasui’s sons inherited his company, they changed the name to Yasui Brothers’ Sewing Machine Company, and the company title was eventually shortened to Brother.

With such a long history, Brother has engineered a sewing machine to suit every user and use case. So, to narrow them down, we searched for Brother sewing machines to meet the needs of beginning sewers, those who engage in basic sewing projects, and those with more advanced skills and experience in quilting, crafting, and fashion design. We endeavored to present Brother machines that meet the requirements of these various types of sewists. 

Best overall: Brother XM2701 Sewing Machine

SEE IT

Why it made the cut: The Brother XM2701 sewing machine offers versatility as it provides automated features and numerous built-in stitches for advanced sewists, along with ease of operation for beginners. 

Specs

• Weight: 12.6 pounds
• Product dimensions: 12.1 x 5.9 x 15.3 inches
• Number of built-in stitches: 27

Pros

• Automatic buttonhole function
• Automatic needle threader
• Both decorative and straight built-in stitches
• 6 interchangeable feet included

Cons  

• Not computerized

The Brother XM2701 sewing machine is easy to operate, making it a viable choice for beginners. On the other hand, it boasts a wide array of stitch options and automated features that appeal to experienced sewing enthusiasts. Stitch options include multiple decorative and quilting stitches along with basic, straight stitches for seams and basting. With 27 built-in stitches and 63 stitch functions, users can create crafts, fashions, home decor items, and quilts. 

Although not a computerized machine, the XM2701 offers several automated features to make sewing projects go more smoothly and quickly. For example, the automatic needle threader eliminates the frustration and eye strain of threading the needle by hand. An automatic, 1-step buttonhole function saves time and ensures consistent, professional-looking results. Additionally, the task of winding the bobbin is an automatic process.

Several convenient features make the XM2701 a popular and versatile sewing machine. The jam-resistant, drop-in bobbin is located on the top of the machine to speed up the sewing process. An LED light brightly lights the work area. The free arm feature also makes it easy to manipulate the fabric when sewing cuffs, sleeves, and pants. 

The XM2701 model includes six interchangeable feet to accomplish multiple sewing tasks: Buttonhole foot; Zipper foot; Zigzag foot; Narrow hemmer; Blind stitch; and Button-sewing foot.

Best computerized: Brother XR9550 Sewing and Quilting Machine

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Why it made the cut: With computerized, push-button stitch selection and automatic functioning, the Brother XR9550 sewing machine offers advanced features for quilters, crafters, and hobbyists, as well as sewing artists. 

Specs

• Weight: 10.14 pounds
• Product dimensions: 20 x 13.5 x 17.9 inches 
• Number of built-in stitches: 165

Pros

• Extra-wide sewing surface for large projects
• Push-button stitch selection, including decorative stitches and alphanumeric fonts
• Automatic needle threader
• Protective hard case included

Cons

• Not the best choice for beginners

For the avid sewist who is ready to take their craft to a more sophisticated level, the Brother XR 9550 computerized sewing machine provides numerous features to spark the imagination and facilitate creative success. The machine offers 165 built-in stitches. These include utilitarian and decorative stitches along with heirloom stitches. Choose from among eight different buttonhole styles, and the machine will automatically sew a tailored buttonhole around any button. For monogramming and personalizing projects, a selection of 55 alphanumeric stitches facilitates automatically sewing letters, numbers, and symbols onto fabrics. 

Numerous features of this machine provide ease of operation, taking the stress and frustration out of sewing. The built-in stitches are clearly marked on the front of the machine. Simply push a button for the computerized stitch-selection function, and a backlit LCD display shows the appropriate choice. Additionally, this machine includes an automatic needle threader and a jam-resistant, top drop-in bobbin.

Quilters appreciate the drop-feed feature that facilitates free-sewing for quilting. The work surface is illuminated with a bright LED light, and the extra-wide table allows quilters to handle bulky fabrics and large projects. Alternatively, sewists can use the free arm to sew sleeves, cuffs, and trouser legs.

The XR9550 includes seven interchangeable sewing feet along with accessories: Zigzag foot; Buttonhole foot; Button-sewing foot; Overcasting foot; Blind stitch foot; Monogramming foot; Quilting foot; Protective, hard cover; and an Instructional DVD.

Best for embroidery: Brother SE1900 Sewing and Embroidery Machine

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Why it made the cut: Sewists can achieve artist-quality results in creative DIY projects by choosing from 138 built-in embroidery designs in the Brother SE1900 sewing and embroidery machine.

Specs

• Weight: 22.1 pounds
• Product dimensions: 23.19 x 11.54 x 13.43 inches 
• Number of built-in stitches: 138 embroidery designs + 240 built-in stitches

Pros

• Large number of built-in embroidery designs and stitches
• Built-in memory for imported embroidery designs
• Built-in memory for personal, custom-designed stitches
• LCD touchscreen display

Cons

• Not the best choice for beginners

Take your sewing and crafting projects to the artist level with the Brother SE1900 computerized sewing and embroidery machine. Select from among 138 built-in embroidery designs and see them displayed on the large-size, full-color, LCD touchscreen. Alternatively, users can import new designs and save them to the machine. Additionally, the machine can combine designs and store them in its memory. Measuring 5 inches by 7 inches, the embroidery field provides ample versatility for creative sewists. A hoop is included to facilitate larger embroidery designs, so users are limited only by their imaginations.  

The 240 built-in stitches inspire customizing many crafting, quilting, and garment-making activities. Among the stitch options, the SE1900 offers 11 built-in fonts for monogramming and personalizing the original projects. Additionally, 10 styles of buttonhole stitches facilitate automatic sewing of precisely sized buttonholes.

Several convenient features of this computerized machine take the effort and frustration out of sewing pursuits. The advanced, automatic needle threader eliminates threading the needle by hand. Instead, the thread inserts precisely through the eye of the needle with a simple press of a lever. The jam-resistant feature facilitates a consistent thread feed from the top drop-in bobbin, preventing the work delays that come with tangled threads. With a maximum speed of 850 stitches per minute and labor-saving features for smooth operation, sewing on the SE1900 is an enjoyable and inspiring experience.

To facilitate a broad array of sewing tasks, this machine includes eight interchangeable sewing feet: Blind stitch foot; Buttonhole foot; Button fitting foot; Zipper foot; Zigzag foot; Monogramming foot; and Overcasting foot.

Best for beginners: Brother CP60X Computerized Sewing Machine

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Why it made the cut: The easy-to-use Brother CP60X computerized sewing machine is a top choice for beginners to embark on a learning adventure in sewing, quilting, and crafting.

Specs

• Weight: 14 pounds
• Product dimensions: 16.26 x 6.65 x 12.21 inches 
• Number of built-in stitches: 60

Pros

• Utilitarian and decorative stitches built-in
• Automatic needle threader
• Durable metal frame
• Capable of sewing denim and thick fabrics

Cons

• Not capable of monogramming

Use the Brother CP60X computerized sewing machine to embark on a lifelong hobby of sewing, crafting, and quilting. It offers straightforward, easy-to-use operating procedures, suitable for beginning sewers. An array of 60 built-in stitch options is prominently displayed on the front of the machine. Choose by simply pressing a button, and the information shows up on the clearly visible LCD screen. In addition to decorative and heirloom stitches, the machine offers a selection of seven auto-size, buttonhole stitches. 

With a fixed needle bar, this machine is particularly well-suited for beginning sewers. The needle remains fixed in place to ensure clean stitching and even seam lines. Additionally, the 2-step, automatic needle threader accurately pushes the thread through the eye of the needle. It saves time and frustration so that beginners can enjoy their sewing activities. 

The CP60X is a versatile sewing machine for multiple purposes. With its heavy-duty frame and exceptionally smooth feed system, the machine handles denim and other thick fabrics without snagging. A favorite feature of quilters, the drop-feed system allows free-motion sewing. Additionally, the machine facilitates free-arm sewing for constructing shirts, cuffs, and trousers. 

This CP60X provides an ample collection of accessories to get started with a sewing hobby. These include a 3-piece needle set, bobbins and a bobbin cover, a quilt guide, and a bilingual instruction manual. The included supply of seven interchangeable feet facilitates multiple types of sewing tasks: Blind stitch foot; Zigzag foot; Buttonhole foot; Button sewing foot; Overcasting foot; Zipper foot; and Monogramming foot (used for decorative stitches only).

Just starting out and interested in other options? Check out our dedicated guide to the best sewing machines for beginners.

Best for quilting: Brother XR3774 Sewing and Quilting Machine

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Why it made the cut: With built-in stitches for utilitarian and decorative applications, automatic features, and an extra-wide table that accommodates quilts, the Brother XR3774 is a standout machine for quilters.

Specs

• Weight: 15.87 pounds
• Product dimensions: 15.3 x 5.8 x 12 inches 
• Number of built-in stitches: 37

Pros

• Wide work surface for bulky quilts and large sewing projects
• One-step buttonhole function
• Automatic needle threader
• Jam-resistant, drop-in bobbin

Cons

• Not computerized

Here’s a mechanical sewing machine with automated features and a large workspace for bulky projects. The large throat area and the extra-wide work table make the Brother XR3774 sewing and quilting machine a viable choice for quilters. For projects other than quilts, sewists may utilize the free arm. This feature facilitates sewing sleeves, cuffs, trousers, and skinny jeans. 

In addition to providing ample space for quilting, this machine offers ease of use through several automated functions. The 1-step buttonhole stitch automatically turns out perfectly sized buttonholes. An automatic needle threading system eliminates the frustrating task of threading the needle by hand. Simply press a lever on the side of the machine and the thread inserts precisely through the eye of the needle. Additionally, the top drop-in bobbin winds automatically, and it’s jam-resistant to ensure a smooth, continuous feed of thread. 

The XR3774 includes 37 built-in stitches that produce 74 stitch functions when applied to various sewing tasks. These include both utilitarian and decorative stitch options for multiple sewing and quilting purposes. The 37 pre-set stitches are prominently displayed on the front of the machine. Select a unique stitch pattern by simply turning a dial to the appropriate number. 

This machine includes an ample supply of accessories to facilitate varied sewing and quilting activities: Walking foot; Blind stitch foot; Zigzag foot; Zipper foot; Buttonhole foot; Button sewing foot; Spring-action quilting foot; Narrow hem foot; Wide table, detachable work surface; Hard cover to protect the machine when not in use; and an Instructional DVD. Here are more of our picks for the best sewing machines for quilting.

Best budget: Brother LX3817 Sewing Machine

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Why it made the cut: The Brother LX3817 is an affordable machine for the sewing hobbyist, offering ease of operation and versatile features for basic sewing tasks and creative projects.

Specs

• Weight: 10.36 pounds
• Product dimensions: 17x 7 x 14 inches 
• Number of built-in stitches: 17

Pros

• 17 built-in stitches
• 4-step buttonhole function
• LED light for well-lit workspace
• Jam resistant bobbin

Cons 

• Not computerized
• Not as many built-in stitches as other machines

Available at a budget-friendly price, the LX3817 sewing machine provides an array of features to suit the needs of beginners, as well as experienced sewing hobbyists. It’s a full-size machine with 17 built-in stitch options. These include straight stitches, zigzag stitches, blind hem stitches, and couching stitches. The stitch choices are clearly marked on the selection dial, located on the front of the machine. Simply turn the dial to choose the desired stitch patterns for constructing garments, sewing crafts, and embellishing home decor creations. 

In addition to the 17 stitch options, the LX3817 provides a 4-step buttonhole function. With a quick turn of the dial, users may select the appropriate stitches to produce consistent, auto-size buttonholes, lending a professional look to finished projects. 

Several features make this machine a pleasure to use. The work area is well-lit with an LED light and the bobbin cover is transparent for visually monitoring the thread supply. The jam-resistant feature means that the thread on the drop-in bobbin does not become entangled. A convenient control dial lets users adjust the upper tension to avoid loose stitches or fabric puckering. The machine’s design also facilitates free-arm sewing for cuffs, sleeves, and trouser legs. 

This machine includes four interchangeable feet: Zigzag foot; Zipper foot; Buttonhole foot; and Button-sewing foot. The LX3817 includes all necessary parts to ensure success on multiple sewing and crafting projects, including: Darning plate; Bobbin cover; Bobbins; Set of 3 needles; and an Instructional DVD.

What to consider when buying the best Brother sewing machines

With many options to choose from, it can be daunting for any consumer to select the most appropriate Brother sewing machine for their purposes. Here are several factors to consider before making a selection:

Computerized or mechanical?

Brother Industries manufactures both mechanical and computerized sewing machines. The mechanical models tend to be easier to operate and maintain. They’re durable and reliable, offering basic sewing features for beginners and hobbyists. As an added bonus, many of the mechanical models include automatic functions for ease of use. On the other hand, some sewists prefer the advanced technological capabilities of computerized sewing machines. Especially for embroidery, crafting, and quilting projects, computerized machines can’t be beat.

Built-in stitches

As a standard feature, all Brother sewing machines include varying arrays of built-in stitches. These range in style from straight, utilitarian designs for basting and sewing seams to complex, decorative stitches for the artistic embellishment of garments, quilts, home decor, and crafts. The built-in stitches offered by the Brother sewing machines reviewed here range from as few as 17 to as many as 240 options. Advanced, computerized machines include alphanumeric fonts among their built-in stitches to facilitate monogramming and customization of sewing projects. Additionally, the Brother sewing-and-embroidery machines include built-in embroidery designs with memory capability for importing or creating additional options. 

Automatic features

In addition to computerized and mechanical operating systems, shoppers might consider the availability of automatic functions on various Brother sewing machines. These features make the machines easier to use and increase the enjoyment of sewing as a pleasurable activity. Many of the Brother machines offer automatic needle threading. This function saves time, frustration, and eye strain, eliminating the need to thread the needle by hand. Additionally, including a 4-step or 1-step buttonhole function is a time-saver for sewists as it tailors a buttonhole of the precise size and shape for every button.

FAQs

Final thoughts on the best Brother sewing machines

• Best overall: Brother XM2701 Sewing Machine
• Best computerized: Brother XR9550 Sewing and Quilting Machine
• Best for embroidery: Brother SE1900 Sewing and Embroidery Machine
• Best for beginners: Brother CP60X Computerized Sewing Machine
• Best for quilting: Brother XR3774 Sewing and Quilting Machine
• Best budget: Brother LX3817 Sewing Machine

Many sewists appreciate the straightforward operating procedures and simplified maintenance of a non-computerized sewing machine such as the Brother XM2701 model. It’s a popular, mechanical machine that provides an ample selection of built-in stitches, automatic needle threading, and buttonhole making. Overall, the XM2701 offers value and versatility for multiple sewing and crafting activities.

Why trust us

Popular Science started writing about technology more than 150 years ago. There was no such thing as “gadget writing” when we published our first issue in 1872, but if there was, our mission to demystify the world of innovation for everyday readers means we would have been all over it. Here in the present, PopSci is fully committed to helping readers navigate the increasingly intimidating array of devices on the market right now.

Our writers and editors have combined decades of experience covering and reviewing consumer electronics. We each have our own obsessive specialties—from high-end audio to video games to cameras and beyond—but when we’re reviewing devices outside of our immediate wheelhouses, we do our best to seek out trustworthy voices and opinions to help guide people to the very best recommendations. We know we don’t know everything, but we’re excited to live through the analysis paralysis that internet shopping can spur so readers don’t have to.

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Best overall		SINGER | Quantum Stylist 9960 Sewing & Quilting Machine		SEE IT	A computerized machine with convenient, automatic features.
Best budget		SINGER | MX60 Sewing Machine With Accessory Kit		SEE IT	A basic, mechanical machine that offers straightforward operating procedures.
Best for beginners		SINGER | Start 1304 Sewing Machine		SEE IT	An optimal choice for teens and adult beginners or sewing hobbyists who want a simple-to-use machine.

A good Singer sewing machine is the one that meets the needs of the individual. With many models to choose from, beginning hobbyists and experienced sewing artists alike can find appropriate models to facilitate their creative sewing efforts and produce pleasing results. In the almost 175 years since its first patent, the Singer company introduced the first electronic sewing machines, the first zigzag-stitch machines, and the first sewing-assistant app for mobile devices. Today, Singer offers a plethora of sewing machine models for a wide range of sewing purposes. These include quilt-making, garment construction, embroidery, crafts, and fabricating home decor items such as curtains and toss pillows. Shoppers have many options when selecting the best Singer sewing machine for each sewer’s needs.

• Best overall: SINGER | Quantum Stylist 9960 Sewing & Quilting Machine 
• Best heavy-duty: SINGER | 4423 Heavy-Duty Sewing Machine
• Best portable: SINGER | Stitch Quick + Handheld Mending Machine
• Best for embroidery: SINGER | Legacy SE300 Sewing and Embroidery Machine
• Best for quilting: SINGER | Quantum Stylist 9985 Computerized Sewing Machine
• Best for beginners: SINGER | Start 1304 Sewing Machine
• Best budget: SINGER | MX60 Sewing Machine With Accessory Kit

How we chose the best Singer sewing machines

To assemble our list of recommended products, we took into account personal experience, peer suggestions, and user impressions to identify 13 top Singer sewing machines intended for home use. Although our selections are all available on Amazon, we did not limit our research to standard specs and basic product descriptions. Instead, we went to the source by consulting the Singer company website. There, we found more in-depth information to bring greater clarity to the selection process for our readers.

First, we distinguished between the best sewing machines with computerized or mechanical operating systems and focused on products in both categories. Then, we looked for basic and advanced features to suit the varying needs of shoppers. For example, we considered machines with a great quantity of pre-set stitch choices and programmable functions such as automatic needle threading, one-step buttonholes, and push-button stitch selection. Alternatively, we considered simple machines with basic mechanical functions that meet the needs of many sewists and crafters, including beginners. Additionally, we considered machines in the mid-to-upper price range, as well as more budget-friendly choices. We did not consider industrial or professional machines, such as those that perform serging and overlocking functions. 

The best Singer sewing machines: Reviews & Recommendations

Since 1851, when Isaac Singer patented the first practical sewing machine, the Singer company has been serving the public with reliable sewing machines manufactured from high-quality materials and featuring precisely functioning components. Innovation and creative product development mark the company’s history and current machines, the best of which are presented here. 

Best overall: SINGER | Quantum Stylist 9960 Sewing & Quilting Machine 

SEE IT

Why it made the cut: The Singer Quantum Stylist 9960 machine offers computerized operation with a vast array of optional functions to turn out creative, personalized sewing projects.

Specs

• Weight: 20 pounds
• Dimensions: 17.25 x 8.25 x 12 inches
• Computerized or mechanical: Computerized

Pros

• 600 built-in stitch applications
• Automatic needle threader
• Five alphanumeric fonts for monogramming and personalizing projects
• High speed, up to 850 stitches per minute

Cons

• Somewhat expensive
• Occasional issues with the automatic tension

Creative sewists find that this machine meets and exceeds their versatility and ease-of-use needs. With the outstanding features of Singer’s Quantum Stylist 9960 machine, users are limited only by their imaginations. The machine simplifies the processes needed to turn out beautiful quilts, crafts, home decor, and fashion projects. 

With its up-to-date, computerized operating system, the Quantum Stylist provides numerous options for sewing speed, precision, and multipurpose functioning. It offers 600 built-in stitches, ranging from basic to stretch and decorative options. The stitch choices include five alphanumeric fonts for monogramming or personalizing projects and 13 alternatives for 1-step buttonholes. For ultimate ease, the machine includes a specialized underplate to create perfect tailoring on every buttonhole successfully.

The Quantum Stylist can produce 850 stitches per minute, facilitating the quick completion of sewing projects. Additionally, the automatic needle threader speeds up the tedious task of threading the machine’s needle. Within seconds, users can have the entire machine automatically threaded, from the spool to the eye of the needle. This feature eliminates the frustration and eye strain associated with threading the needle by hand.

To facilitate a broad range of creative crafts and sewing projects, the Quantum Stylist 9960 includes a sizable array of accessories. These include the following attachable, working parts: All-purpose foot; Zipper foot; Buttonhole foot; Open toe foot; Overcasting foot; Darning and embroidery foot; Rolled hem foot; Cording foot; Straight stitch and quilting food; and Even-feed or walking foot.

Singer’s Quantum Stylist 9960 is suitable for creative types who design and fabricate their own fashions, as well as those who turn out heirloom-quality quilts and custom-craft handiwork. Additionally, it serves users who simply want to make clothing from commercial patterns or construct simple toss-pillows and curtains for their home decor. Overall, it’s a high-quality, multifunctional, and dependable machine.

Best heavy-duty: SINGER | 4423 Heavy-Duty Sewing Machine

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Why it made the cut: With a motor that is 60 percent more powerful than most, the Singer 4423 sewing machine handles thick seams and heavy-duty fabrics such as denim and canvas. 

Specs

• Weight: 14.5 pounds
• Product dimensions: 15.5 x 6.25 x 12 inches
• Computerized or mechanical: Mechanical

Pros

• Heavy-duty, interior, metal frame
• Extra-powerful motor
• High-speed performance
• Sews lightweight, sheer fabrics as well as heavy-duty materials

Cons

• Not the best choice for thick leather and thick canvas

Sew through denim, canvas, and heavy wool fabrics with the Singer 4423 machine. It boasts a motor that is 60 percent more powerful than standard sewing machine motors, making this model a workhorse for multiple sewing projects. Additionally, the heavy-duty metal frame and the stainless-steel bedplate assure operation stability and long-wearing durability. Yet, this machine also handles lightweight, sheer materials. The smooth, stainless-steel bed plate along with the adjustable pressure for the presser-foot allow sheer fabrics to glide across the bed’s surface without snagging.

With its powerful motor, the Singer 4423 sewing machine boasts exceptional sewing speed. It’s easy to complete sewing projects in record time when the machine produces up to 1,100 precision stitches per minute. A clearly marked dial allows users to select from a variety of preset stitches to create up to 97 stitch applications. Select the 1-step buttonhole feature to save time and frustration by producing consistent buttonholes every time. Simply place the button in the buttonhole foot, and the machine automatically sews a precision buttonhole around it.

On the outer casing surface, clear markings indicate the procedure for threading the machine from the top-loading, drop-in bobbin to the needle. Then, the built-in, automatic needle threader takes over to thread the needle, thereby saving the user from annoyance and eye strain. 

The Singer 4423 heavy-duty machine includes a package of four interchangeable feet along with multiple accessories such as bobbins, needles, a quilting guide, and more. Additionally, a soft-sided dust cover is included to protect the machine when it’s not in use.

Best portable: SINGER | Stitch Quick + Handheld Mending Machine

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Why it made the cut: The Singer Stitch Quick + is a battery-operated, handheld sewing machine that delivers meticulous results on quick repairs and hems, eliminating the need to set up a full-size machine.

Specs 

• Weight: 1.45 pounds
• Dimensions: 9.7 x 4.1 x 6 inches
• Computerized or mechanical: Mechanical

Pros 

• Ultimate portability
• May be used in locations without electricity
• No need to set up a full-size machine
• More precise results than hand-sewing on hems and repairs 

Cons

• Not suitable for constructing garments and full-size projects
• Not for heavy-duty use

Save time and effort when you use this mini, handheld, cordless mending machine. With the Singer Stitch-Quick +, there’s no need to set up a full-size sewing machine when it’s time to repair garments and home decor items rapidly. Use it to quickly hem a pair of pants, a skirt, or household curtains. Grab this handheld tool when it’s time to mend a ripped seam in a hurry. Weighing only 1.45 pounds, the diminutive machine is easy to store and transport. Take it along wherever necessary to complete a minor sewing task. It requires only 4 AA batteries (may we suggest rechargeables).

On the other hand, the Stitch Quick + might be the ideal learning tool for an older child or teen to get started with sewing. A convenient switch on the front of the machine allows the user to choose either desktop or handheld operating modes. From there, the beginning sewer can learn many of the same procedures that pertain to standard sewing-machine operation. 

Singer designs this machine with attention to ergonomic considerations for handheld use. The handle grip is designed to offer the most advantageous balance and control. A safety lock prevents accidental operation. 

Use the Stitch Quick + for sewing paper as well as fabric. It’s useful for making crafts. The machine uses two threads to produce permanent, interlocking stitches. Replace the upper bobbin with the large spool pin to facilitate using standard-size thread spools. This diminutive machine contains many of the working parts of a standard sewing machine. These include the following: Built-in thread cutter; Drop-in bobbin compartment; Bobbin winder; Presser foot; Needle; Adjustable tension control dial; Handwheel; and Built-in storage compartment for notions.

Best for embroidery: SINGER | Legacy SE300 Sewing and Embroidery Machine

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Why it made the cut: The Singer Legacy SE300 comes with 200 embroidery designs and 250 stitches, making this an ideal choice for people who love to embroider and embellish their work.

Specs

• Weight: 20.5 pounds
• Dimensions: 17.25 x 8.25 x 12 inches  
• Computerized or mechanical: Computerized

Pros

• 200 included embroidery designs
• Fast sewing speed of 800 stitches per minute
• Six fonts included

Cons

• Expensive
• Software only available for Windows

If embroidery is your thing, consider the Singer Legacy SE300. The machine has a large and small embroidery hoop, plus 7.25 inches of space to hold your project. The included 200 embroidery designs and six fonts will give you plenty of options. The SE300 provides basic stitches and a wide range of decorative stitches and will automatically set the length, width, pressure, and more. It also has memory to save four individual stitching sequences. 

Capable of up to 800 stitches per minute, the SE300 can move through projects fast. To convert it from sewing to embroidery mode, just attach the embroidery foot. The LCD and touch screens help simplify the job, and the machine has online training as part of the package. It also comes with software, but it’s only compatible with Windows. It’s also one of the pricier models on the list. 

Best for quilting: SINGER | Quantum Stylist 9985 Computerized Sewing Machine

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Why it made the cut: The Singer Quantum Stylist 9985 computerized sewing machine includes automatic functions and attachable working parts that facilitate many of the specialized sewing procedures for quilt-making.

Specs

• Weight: 20 pounds
• Dimensions: 8.5 x 17.25 x 12.5 inches
• Computerized or mechanical: Computerized

Pros 

• Includes four bonus feet designed for quilting
• 960 built-in stitches
• Automatic needle threader
• Drop-feed lever for free-motion sewing

Cons

• Bobbin cover not transparent, making it hard to track thread supply

Many quilters, crafters, and avid sewists appreciate the push-button operating ease of a computerized sewing machine. When it comes to quilting, the Singer Quantum Stylist 9985 does not disappoint. Several features of this machine make quilting easier and more enjoyable, yielding creatively inspiring results.

These features include: Electronic twin needle settings; a 7-segment feeding system; automatic locking stitch function; built-in reverse; horizontal threading; automatic bobbin winding clutch; direct select stitch selection buttons; automatic tension settings; extra-high presser foot lift; center zigzag taper; automatic presser foot pressure control; and optimum power control. Select from 960 built-in stitches for basic and decorative sewing and quilting projects. All stitches and fonts are accessible on the built-in LCD screen, and the machine itself has a maximum sewing speed of 850 stitches per minute. 

Several convenient features of this computerized machine are designed to save time and effort for sewists. The drop-in bobbin system eliminates the need for raising the bobbin thread before sewing. Simply drop in the bobbin and start sewing immediately. For added fun, the bobbin cover is a lovely shade of purple. Additionally, the machine offers an automatic needle threader to save the user time and frustration while working.

Sewing buttonholes is a breeze with the Quantum Stylist 9985’s one-step buttonhole function. Simply place the button in the buttonhole foot, and the machine sews a perfectly tailored buttonhole around it. 

Best for beginners: SINGER | Start 1304 Sewing Machine

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Why it made the cut: Older children, teens, and adult beginners might use the Singer Start 1304 machine to embark on a journey of creative discovery and productivity through sewing.

Specs

• Weight: 9.8 pounds
• Product dimensions: 13 x 7 x 11.5 inches
• Computerized or mechanical: Mechanical

Pros 

• Lightweight and portable
• Full metal frame
• Six built-in stitches for 57 stitch applications
• Includes a quick-start guide and an instruction manual

Cons

• Not for quilting
• Not for heavy-duty fabrics

The simplified operational procedures of this mechanical sewing machine make it ideal for casual hobbyists and beginning sewers. Older children and teens might use this machine to launch a lifelong fascination with the arts of sewing, quilting, and crafting. The Singer Start 1304 offers basic features with enough variable options to facilitate creativity and versatility in sewing projects. 

A manual dial on the front of the machine displays six clearly marked stitch choices. With a simple turn of the dial, users can employ these stitches with pre-set lengths and widths to accomplish up to 57 stitch applications. In addition to straight stitches for seams and hems, beginners can experiment with decorative scallops and zigzag stitches to embellish their work.

In addition to straight and decorative stitches, the Start 1304 boasts a simple, 4-step buttonhole system with clearly marked designations on the stitch selector dial. Even beginners can turn out tailored buttonholes every time. Although the machine is lightweight, compact, and portable, it features a full metal frame inside the plastic outer casing. This construction ensures durability for years of service and stability on a tabletop or work surface.

For versatile use on various sewing projects, the Start 1304 includes numerous attachable working parts and other helpful accessories. These include the following: All-purpose foot; Zipper foot; Buttonhole foot; Darning plate; Pack of needles; Bobbins; Needle plate; Screwdriver; Spool pin felts; Seam ripper and lint brush; Power line cord; Foot pedal control; Quick-start guide; and Instruction manual.

Curious about other options for those just getting started? Check out our dedicated guide to the best sewing machines for beginners.

Best budget: SINGER | MX60 Sewing Machine With Accessory Kit

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Why it made the cut: Available at an affordable price, the Singer MX60 sewing machine is a solid choice for a lightweight, portable tool that provides reliable service for basic sewing and craft projects.

Specs

• Weight: 12.17 pounds
• Product dimensions: 13 x 7 x 11.5 inches
• Computerized or mechanical: Mechanical

Pros

• Lightweight for portability and storage
• Full metal frame
• 57 stitch applications
• 4-step buttonhole function

Cons

• Not computerized
• Not for heavy-duty fabrics such as denim or canvas

Here’s a mechanical sewing machine that offers solid, basic features for a wide variety of sewing projects. Many users prefer mechanical machines like the Singer MX60 because the manual controls are simple to use, and the machine is easy to maintain over time. Offering an array of useful features, this machine is suitable for beginners and experienced sewists.

With a choice of 57 stitch applications, the MX60 can produce decorative sewing and basic seams. The stitch choices vary in both length and width. Various stitch options are suitable for piecing quilts, sewing garments, or creating crafts with decorative stitching. Moreover, the stitch selector dial is uncomplicated to use, eliminating mistakes and frustration. 

The MX60 does not boast an automatic needle threader but provides easy-to-follow threading guides that are clearly marked on the machine’s outer surface. Additionally, the LED lighting saves users from straining their eyes while threading the machine. With a front-loading bobbin, the machine can be threaded and ready for use in only a few seconds. A simple lever switches from forward to reverse sewing for finishing off seams, and the tension adjustment allows users to fine-tune the machine for a variety of fabric types.

Weighing in at only 12.7 pounds and exhibiting a compact size, the Singer MX60 is ideal for users who want a portable machine. It’s easy to lift, carry, and store, making it a practical choice for those who work in small spaces. Despite its small size and minimal weight, the MX60 boasts a full metal frame inside the plastic outer shell. This substantial frame provides stability that allows the machine to sew smoothly, without skipping.

What to consider when buying the best Singer sewing machines

Before investing in a Singer sewing machine, shoppers might consider their individual sewing aspirations. For example, a beginner who wants to create simple crafts and home decor items will have needs different from those of an experienced quilter or a sewist who aspires to develop their personal fashion line. Based on the extent and complexity of their anticipated sewing projects, shoppers might consider several factors in the selection process. 

Computerized or mechanical?

Computerized sewing machines offer convenience to sewers via their programmable features and push-button operating ease. However, computerized machines are more expensive than mechanical models. Avid sewing artists and quilters might be willing to pay additional costs for the convenient, computerized functions and the precision results they facilitate. On the other hand, beginners and hobbyists might prefer the simplicity of mechanical sewing machines. The mechanical models offer more straightforward operating procedures and easier maintenance.

Built-in stitches and stitch applications

Both computerized and mechanical sewing machines include varying quantities of built-in or pre-set stitches. These fall into three categories: straight stitches for seams, decorative stitches for embellishments, and buttonhole stitches. With a number of built-in stitches, machines offer a broad range of stitch applications. These applications involve various sewing techniques that can be accomplished with built-in stitch selections. For example, a machine with 98 built-in stitches might facilitate up to 600 stitch applications. Alternatively, a machine with six built-in stitches may facilitate 57 stitch applications. 

Size, weight, and portability

Tabletop sewing machines vary in size from around 13 inches to 17 inches in length and 11 inches to 12 inches in height. Most are around 7 inches to 8.5 inches in width. Similarly, they vary in weight from approximately 10 pounds to 20 pounds. All of the tabletop machines included in this round-up may be considered portable. However, the smaller and lighter-weight machines are easier to set up, move, and store. For sewers who live in small spaces, a small and lightweight machine might be the most convenient for moving from place to place in the home as well as for storage. 

FAQs

Final thoughts on the best Singer sewing machines

• Best overall: SINGER | Quantum Stylist 9960 Sewing & Quilting Machine 
• Best heavy-duty: SINGER | 4423 Heavy Duty Sewing Machine
• Best portable: SINGER | Stitch Quick + Handheld Mending Machine
• Best for embroidery: SINGER | Legacy SE300 Sewing and Embroidery Machine
• Best for quilting: SINGER | Quantum Stylist 9985 Computerized Sewing Machine
• Best for beginners: SINGER | Start 1304 Sewing Machine
• Best budget: SINGER | MX60 Sewing Machine With Accessory Kit

The Singer Quantum Stylist 9960 is our best Singer sewing machine choice. It’s a computerized sewing machine with advanced features to make sewing easier. It’s suitable for serious and experienced quilters, crafters, and sewists, but the clearly marked design facilitates beginners’ use. Multiple automatic functions take the guesswork out of sewing procedures and produce consistently excellent results in finished sewing projects. 

Why trust us

Popular Science started writing about technology more than 150 years ago. There was no such thing as “gadget writing” when we published our first issue in 1872, but if there was, our mission to demystify the world of innovation for everyday readers means we would have been all over it. Here in the present, PopSci is fully committed to helping readers navigate the increasingly intimidating array of devices on the market right now.

Our writers and editors have combined decades of experience covering and reviewing consumer electronics. We each have our own obsessive specialties—from high-end audio to video games to cameras and beyond—but when we’re reviewing devices outside of our immediate wheelhouses, we do our best to seek out trustworthy voices and opinions to help guide people to the very best recommendations. We know we don’t know everything, but we’re excited to live through the analysis paralysis that internet shopping can spur so readers don’t have to.

The post The best Singer sewing machines in 2023 appeared first on Popular Science.

Articles may contain affiliate links which enable us to share in the revenue of any purchases made.

We may earn revenue from the products available on this page and participate in affiliate programs. Learn more ›

There’s no better indicator of the health of the oceans than the amount of phytoplankton that resides in them. That’s not only because this microalgae produces at least 50 percent of the oxygen we breathe, but also because it’s the start of the marine food chain, determining what other creatures live and thrive in any given area.

The changing seasons and the climate crisis may play a big role in the presence of phytoplankton over time, so it’s of the utmost importance for researchers to know what levels look like in oceans around the world. Sailors, boaters, and interested sea-faring travelers can help track and study this microorganism by using one simple tool: the Secchi disk. You can contribute to important citizen science by building one and taking it with you the next time you head to the ocean.

What is a Secchi disk?

A Secchi disk is an impressively low-tech piece of scientific equipment invented in 1865 by Italian astronomer Angelo Secchi to measure water transparency and turbidity. In deep-water ocean environments, these factors are determined by biological material like phytoplankton, explains Verena Meraldi, chief scientist for HX Hurtigruten Expeditions, a cruise line that invites passengers to participate in scientific data collection.

The tool itself is usually a round piece of white plastic with a diameter of 30 centimeters (about 12 inches), that is attached to the end of a tape measure or line marked at 20 centimeters (about 8 inches) and 1-meter intervals (a little more than 1 yard). 

We’ll explain in more detail below, but using a Secchi disk is easy: just lower the disk on a line into the water and record the depth at which you lose sight of the contraption. This measurement is called Secchi depth. Deeper measurements mean there’s less phytoplankton in the water, whereas shallow measurements indicate an abundance of the microalgae and therefore, a healthier environment.

Once you have a reading, you can log your findings in the Secchi app (available for iPhone and Android). The platform is part of the Secchi Disk Study citizen science program launched in 2013 by marine biologist Richard Kirby after a controversial 2010 report published in Nature that claimed phytoplankton levels had declined 40 percent between 1950 and 2008. Kirby’s initiative collects data to track the presence of this crucial microalgae worldwide.

Researchers have long collected data on phytoplankton by measuring ocean surface color using satellites. But this information is not enough, so this is where citizen scientists come in.  

“You need some means of determining in situ measurements, and the simplest way to do that is to measure the clarity of the water with a Secchi disk,” Kirby explains.

How to make a Secchi disk

There are two kinds of Secchi disks: the ones made to measure clarity in freshwater are painted in black and white, and are smaller than the white-only Secchi disks designed for the ocean. To participate in Kirby’s study, you’ll need the latter.

You can order a Secchi disk online, but you can also make your own, as they are easy to make and much cheaper, too.

[Related: How to become a citizen scientist]

Please note that some of the measurements in this project are in metric units. This is important because the Secchi Disk Study measures depth in centimeters, so the data you provide must be measured accordingly.   

Stats

• Time: 30 to 60 minutes
• Cost: about $8
• Difficulty: easy 

Materials

• 12-by-12-inch piece of wood, plastic, or styrofoam board, ⅛-inch or ¼-inch thick
• 50 meters (165 feet) of sturdy light-colored cord
• 2-pound fishing weight (or anything heavy enough to pull the disk down)
• (Optional) 4-inch eyebolt
• (Optional) 2 washers
• (Optional) 2 hex nuts
• (Optional) 50-meter (165-foot) fiberglass surveyors tape
• (Optional) White matte paint
• (Optional) Carabiner

Tools

• Heavy-duty scissors, box cutter, or saw
• Measuring tape
• 2 permanent markers of contrasting colors
• Drill
• Ruler

1. Cut a disk with a 30-centimeter diameter. You can craft your Secchi disk from just about any material, including metal or wood, though plastic is most common as it’s often easier to cut to size. A trimmed 5-gallon paint bucket lid, a thick signboard, or even a cutting board will work well. Just make sure that whatever material you choose won’t break easily and end up polluting the waters you’re trying to study and protect. 

2. (Optional) Paint your disk matte white. If the material you chose is already matte white, you can skip this step. If it’s not, paint your disk with matte-finish white paint and let it completely dry. You can use whatever you have at hand—just keep in mind that you may need more than one coat to get the required opacity.

3. Drill a small hole in the center of the disk. Use a ruler to find the center and drill a hole that’s just a bit bigger than the width of your cord.

5. Securely attach the weight to the bottom side of the disk. The weight can be a 2-pound fishing weight, repurposed link of mooring chain, or anything else that will help the disk sink. 

• Pro tip: “Be creative—you just need a lump of heavy metal,” Kirby says.

6. Mark your line. Once everything is knotted securely, use a permanent marker to draw lines on the cord at 20-centimeter intervals. Use the contrasting color to make marks at 1-meter intervals.

How to use a Secchi disk

Once you have your disk, head for the ocean. Make sure it’s at least partly sunny and that you embark ideally between 10 a.m. and 2 p.m., as the angle of the sun will affect light penetration. Don’t set sail unless you’re accustomed to being on a boat, wearing proper safety equipment (like a life jacket), and know how to swim.

If you’re not comfortable on the water or don’t have a way to leave shore, no data is uninteresting, Kirby says. That means you can still join in and if you can only take readings once from a jetty or pier near shore where you live, you can still join in. Although the instructions below require a boat, you should be able to adapt them to wherever you are.

To pick a good reading location, Kirby says to find a spot at least 1 kilometer (0.62 miles) from shore where you can’t see the ocean floor, so around 25 meters deep (82 feet) deep. This depth and distance from shore will help reduce the amount of tannins and sediment obscuring visibility that could alter the measurement. 

Take off your sunglasses if you’re wearing them, and drop your clean disk into the water on the shady side of your boat. Keeping a firm grip on your measuring tape or rope, slowly let out the line. If you think it might slip from your fingers, tie it off to a secure surface for extra peace of mind. Watch carefully as your disk descends, and make sure it sinks vertically. If it doesn’t, the sinking weight might be off-balance or the current may be too strong, in which case you may have to make some adjustments and try again later.

Stop when you can no longer make out the disk beneath the surface. Raise and lower the disk a few times to pinpoint exactly the point where you lose sight of it. This will help you get the most accurate reading and make sure your eyes aren’t playing tricks on you. When you’re ready, record your Secchi depth by looking at your measuring tape at the point where it touches the water, or counting the submerged interval markers. You’ll need the average measurement when you use the app. Finish by opening the Secchi app at the drop site—follow the prompts and instructions to record your GPS location and enter your data.

You can repeat this procedure anytime you’re on the ocean. In fact, if you visit far-flung destinations or regularly return to the same spot, all the better: repeated readings from various times of the day, different seasons, and from hard-to-reach locales are extremely valuable for helping scientists understand how phytoplankton levels change over time and around the world.

The Secchi Disk Study has published two research papers on phytoplankton, with more in the works. That’s thanks to citizen science contributions: cruise passengers, avid sailors, recreational kayakers, and anyone who even occasionally takes to open water and wants to contribute to important and quantifiable environmental science. You can add yourself to that list now too.

The post You can help measure the ocean’s health with this homemade gadget appeared first on Popular Science.

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It’s a well-known fact that staring at the sun is… not the best idea. In the same way that the sun can burn your skin, our home star can overwhelm your peepers with UV rays and literally scorch your retina.

That is a huge bummer, especially because watching a solar eclipse (when the moon covers the sun) is an incredibly cool experience. Thankfully, there are several ways to watch an eclipse without risking your vision, and one of them is building a pinhole camera out of a box, a piece of aluminum foil, and lots of tape. This is an easy and incredibly versatile project, and you can turn it into a permanent camera obscura when you’re done watching the eclipse. 

How to make a pinhole camera

1. Light-proof your box. Leaving one side open, use duct tape or electrical tape to seal the box and prevent any light rays from sneaking in. Pay special attention to the corners and wherever two pieces of cardboard meet. The pinhole will only allow a few rays of light into your box, so the projection of the sun will be dim. That means the darker your camera, the easier it will be to see the image.

As we said, this project is versatile. You can use a wide range of box sizes to make your pinhole camera, but cereal and shoe boxes work exceptionally well. We used the 15-by7 ½-by-5 ½-inch box that carried our neighbor’s latest online shopping spurt. 

Likewise, duct tape and electrical tape are the best choices to light-proof your box, but you can use any tape that will block light—dark washi tape or masking tape will also do the trick. Just keep in mind that you may have to apply multiple layers to achieve total darkness inside your box. 

[Related: A ‘ring of fire’ eclipse and Hunter’s Moon will bring lunar drama to October’s skies]

• Pro tip: Check your work by holding your box up to a light and looking inside. If you still see some shine coming through, apply another layer of tape. 

2. Determine your pinhole’s location and cover the inside of the opposite face with white paper. Measure one of the smallest sides of the box, cut a piece of white paper to the same size, and tape or glue it to the inside of the corresponding face. It doesn’t have to be perfect—as long as most of the side is covered, you’ll be good to go. Just make sure that the paper doesn’t have any wrinkles or folds, as they may distort the image of the sun. 

3. Measure the openings for the pinhole and the viewer. On the side opposite the one you covered with white paper, use your ruler and a pencil to measure two openings. The pinhole opening will be located in the upper left corner (about half an inch from the edges) and will be 2-by-2 inches (we’ll make it smaller later). 

The viewing opening will be located in the upper right corner of the box, half an inch from the top edge and an inch from the right edge of the box. This opening will be smaller—only 1 inch square.

4. Cut the openings. Using a box cutter or scissors, cut out the openings you drew. 

• Pro tip: If the openings end up being too big, don’t sweat it—you can always adjust their size with tape. 

5. Close and seal the box. Use your newly cut openings to make sure there are no other places where light might be sneaking in. Pay special attention to the corners of the box above and below your openings. Cover all the places where pieces of cardboard meet with tape. 

6. Cover the larger opening with aluminum foil. Cut a smooth 2 ½-by-2 ½-inch piece of aluminum foil. With the dull side facing you, carefully cover the big opening with the metallic sheet and tape it in place. Make sure you secure it tightly so no light can get into the box.  

• Pro tip: To smooth out any creases, softly rub the top of any fingernail over the foil in a small, circular motion. 

7.  Use the thumbtack to poke a hole in the foil. Find the rough center of the 2-by-2-inch square under the aluminum sheet and gently push the tack through before pulling it back out—you want a clean, round hole. If you don’t have a thumbtack, you can use the tip of a toothpick or an embroidery needle. Just make sure that whatever you’re using has a point (it’ll make a neater hole) and that it’s approximately 0.2 millimeters wide. 

• Note: The width of your pinhole will determine how much light gets into the box. Too much light and the image will be blurry. If that’s the case, don’t worry—just replace the foil and try making a smaller pinhole. 

8. Put your pinhole camera to the test. Stand with your back facing the sun and look into the box through the viewport. Use your hands to block out as much light as possible and move around until you find the angle where sunlight enters through the pinhole. When this happens, you should see a small projection of the shape of the sun on the white paper you pasted inside the box. 

[Related: Total eclipses aren’t that rare—and you’ve probably missed a bunch of them]

Keep in mind that the weather is crucial in determining the quality of the image you’ll see inside your pinhole camera, and whether you can see the eclipse at all. The October 14 eclipse, in particular, will be annular, so the moon will be smaller than the sun and clouds, rain, or other inclement weather will make it hard to see the event, explains Franck Marchis, a SETI Institute astronomer and the chief scientific officer of Unistellar, a company that manufactures smart telescopes.

How a pinhole camera works

Images are light. Everything we see we perceive because there’s light bouncing off of it, beaming directly through our pupils and into our eyes. All cameras, including the humble pinhole camera you just made, operate under this basic principle. The better they filter the light, the sharper the resulting image will be. 

The sun, of course, is the ultimate light source. On a sunny day, rays from the star travel to Earth and bounce off of every surface they reach. This is a lot of light coming from all directions, so if we want to see only a small portion of the sun’s rays, we have to focus those rays and filter out the rest. That’s why the pinhole in your camera is so tiny or, in more technical terms, why its aperture is so narrow—it only lets a small amount of light into the box, just enough so you can see only a dim projection of the sun when you point the pinhole directly at it. 

The dimness of the image is not ideal, but it’s the tradeoff we make for sharpness—too much light results in a blurry, out-of-focus picture. This is important during a solar eclipse, as filtering the light will allow you to see the round shape of the sun become a crescent or a ring as the moon moves in and gradually blocks the sunlight. 

When the eclipse is over, use a skewer to widen your camera’s pinhole. When you look inside, you won’t only be able to see the sun, but a slightly brighter and inverted image of your surroundings. A bigger pinhole turns your box into a camera obscura, allowing more light in and projecting an image of the objects around you.  

The post Make a classic pinhole camera to watch the upcoming solar eclipse appeared first on Popular Science.

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If you spent spring and summer honing your propagating skills, you now probably have a bunch of new green babies. 

If windowsill real estate is running low and the rest of your flat surfaces are already burgeoning with plants, you might benefit from simple plant hangers you can easily make at home. All you need is some cotton cord and knowing how to make an easy box knot. After that, it’s all about picking the right spot for optimum light exposure, setting up a sturdy hook, and starting your very own vertical indoor jungle.

Stats

• Time: 15 minutes
• Cost: $1.30 per hanger
• Difficulty: easy 

Materials

• 4 (4-yard-long) pieces of 4-millimeter cotton cord
• 1 (2-inch-wide) wire ring

Tools

• Scissors 
• Measuring tape
• Masking tape (or washi tape)
• (Optional) hair brush (or slicker brush) 

How to make a DIY hanging planter

Measure, cut, and set your pieces

1. Measure and cut four pieces of cotton cord. You’ll be folding each piece in half, so cutting 4-yard pieces will result in a hanger that’s approximately 1 yard long (the excess is tied up in the knots). However, the overall length of the hanger—how low it will hang with a pot in it—will depend on the width of the pot or (if you’re using one) bottom plate you plan on hanging. The wider they are, the shorter the overall effect will be. 

Feel free to play around with these proportions—if you’ll be hanging a pot with a large circumference and want more of a dramatic effect, cut longer pieces of cord. The given proportions will help you know how much longer they’ll have to be. If you’re using a cord thicker than 4 millimeters, add some extra yardage to account for the thickness of the knots. 

And if you want to add some oomph to your plant hanger, you can cut more pieces of cord—as long as it’s an even number of pieces, you’ll be good to go. 

• Note: We don’t advise cutting more than six pieces if you’re using 4-millimeter cord, as you’ll need to leave enough space between the cords for the leaves of your plant to spill over the pot. If you want to use more pieces of cord, we recommend using one that’s not as thick. 

[Related: These DIY hanging plant shelves will make your home feel like a forest canopy]

2. Separate your cords into two groups and lay them on a flat surface in a cross shape. Make sure the two groups intersect right in the middle. To do this, fold them in half and draw an inconspicuous dot using a marker—you won’t be able to see it when you finish. 

3. Pass two consecutive arms of your cross through the metal ring. It doesn’t matter which ones you choose, as long as they’re side by side. 

4. Make a spiral lanyard. Also known as spiral stitch sinnet, this braid is made of multiple consecutive box knots, which you may also know as friendship knots. Don’t worry—making a spiral lanyard is way easier than it looks. 

If this is the first time you’ve tied a box knot, starting out with your yards-long cords and the metal ring might be a bit of a challenge, so we suggest taking two short pieces of cord (no longer than 20 inches) and taking some time to practice. 

How to tie a box knot 

1. With your cords making a cross shape, identify each arm starting with the one at the top. We used the four cardinal points (clockwise from the top: north, east, south, and west), but if orientation has never been your thing, you can go with letters or numbers. 

2. Take the east cord, fold it to the left, and lay it on top of the south cord. You’ll want to leave enough space so you can thread a cord through the resulting loop later. 

3. Take the south cord, fold it away from you, and lay it on top of the west cord.

4. Take the west cord, fold it to the right, and lay it on top of the north cord. 

5. Take the north cord, fold it toward you, and lay it on top of the west cord. As you can see, the movement is always the same: you take one cord and lay it on top of the one to the left of it. 

• Pro tip: You can also tie a box knot by folding your cords to the right—the effect will be the same. You can even alternate the box knots (one made by folding cords to the left, the next one to the right) to make a Crown Sinnet.

6. Now that there are no cords left to fold, take the north cord and thread it through the loop you left at the beginning. The resulting shape will be a box made of four squares.

7. Finish by pulling the cords and tightening the knot.

If this approach is too hard for you, there are several YouTube videos that will teach you different ways to make a box knot. It doesn’t matter how you do it—as long as it’s a box knot, the result will be the same. Keep in mind that unlike the practice photos above, when you’re working with your planter, each arm will have two cords.

Continue by making enough space for your pot 

5. Continue tying knots until your spiral lanyard is around 6 inches long. The objective of this part of your hanger is to secure the ring in place. Making the spiral lanyard between 2 ½ and 3 inches long will also do the trick, so you can go as long as you want. 

• Pro tip: As the lanyard gets longer, it’ll be more and more uncomfortable to keep tying knots on a flat surface. Holding the lanyard between your knees will make knotting so much easier. 

6. Measure 24 inches of loose cord starting at the end of the spiral lanyard. The structure of your hanger will consist of the lanyard attached to the metal ring, a section of loose cord, and a second lanyard where the planter will sit. The size of the planter you can hang and how low it hangs will depend on how long the section of loose cords is—the longer it is, the wider the planter can be and the lower it can hang. We made our loose cord section 24 inches long, which is ideal for planters or plates with diameters between 4 ½ and 8 ½ inches. 

• Pro tip: If you’re planning to hang a bigger planter, make sure the hook or nail you’ll be attaching your plant hanger to is securely fastened to the ceiling or wall, and can withstand the weight of your planter. Then, you can determine how long you need your loose cord section to be by hanging the planter or having someone hold it for you while you calculate the length you want through trial and error. If you need to, use a simple overhand knot to secure the cords where you want your planter to sit.

7. Use masking or washi tape to bind the cords together at the 24-inch mark. You’ll want the bottom side of the tape to coincide with the beginning of the loose cord section. 

8. Tie another lanyard. Hold the planter between your knees and start tying box knots. Again, this lanyard can be as short as 2 ½ inches or as long as you want—it just has to be long enough to prevent the weight of the planter from undoing the box knots.

9. Cut the remaining cord so they’re all the same length. When your lanyard is as long as you want it, tidy up your work by removing the tape and cutting all the remaining cord to the same length. Your planter is now ready to use. 

[Related: 7 key plant care tips every plant parent should know]

If you want to go the extra mile, you can undo the braiding of each cord by twisting them in the opposite direction. And if you want to get a full “horse tail” effect, depending on the thickness of the fibers, you can use a slicker or a hair brush (natural or mixed bristles work best) in small sections to reduce the cord to single threads. 

The post The easiest, most basic DIY plant hanger you can make appeared first on Popular Science.

Articles may contain affiliate links which enable us to share in the revenue of any purchases made.

Best overall		Dewalt Line Laser		SEE IT	A durable design coupled with its high level of accuracy and self-leveling ability makes this an excellent option for the home workshop.
Best for pros		Bosch Three-Plane Self-Leveling Laser Line		SEE IT	With its ability to cast three separate beams around an entire room simultaneously, this laser level is ideal for contractors.
Best budget		Black+Decker Line Laser		SEE IT	This single-function line laser is a great option for DIYers looking for a laser level on a budget.

When you need precise measurements for a project, laser levels are easier to use with far greater applications than traditional bubble levels. They feature mounting devices that allow them to attach to a wall or a tripod, freeing up the user’s hands to mark measurements. They can also project a level line up to 100 feet or more, well beyond the range of a bubble level. Some options also go beyond the ability to measure horizontally or vertically with features that allow them to project a line around all four walls of a room. We examined various options to find the most suitable laser levels for common uses. We looked at range, accuracy, durability, and other important factors you should consider when upgrading in order to create our list of the best laser levels to serve your needs.

• Best overall: Dewalt Line Laser
• Best for pros: Bosch Three-Plane Self-Leveling Laser Level
• Best multi-functional: Klein Tools Laser Level
• Best point line: Bosch Combination Point and Line Laser Level
• Best budget: Black+Decker Line Laser

How we chose the best laser levels

As an avid DIYer who always has at least a project or two going on in the house, there is nary a time when I don’t need a level. In using a laser level, I’ve found that a few features are crucial to making them worth the cost of upgrading from the old reliable level with the spirit bubble. I used these criteria to evaluate dozens of options to create my top five list.

Usability: One of the major advantages of a laser level is that it makes it easier to level items compared to using the standard tool. If it’s too difficult to use or set up, then there isn’t much point to investing in an upgrade. With that in mind, I only chose models that mounted easily to the wall and could mount to a tripod.

Functionality: I considered the number of beam orientation options and the level’s range. A laser level must have enough functions to meet the user’s needs—be that a contractor or casual DIYer. While a contractor may demand one with 3D capability and 150 feet of range, a weekend warrior may only need a simple laser level with horizontal beam orientation and a 50-foot range.

Durability: A laser level is bound to hit the deck occasionally or face wet conditions. I only chose models with durable housings that resisted splashes and could withstand a drop.

Brand: When it comes to tools, the brand is a pretty good indicator of quality. I only chose trusted brands with solid reputations.

Value: While quality trumps price in my evaluations, I understand that spending hundreds on a laser level doesn’t make sense for a lot of us. With that in mind, I only included picks that I felt were reasonably priced.

The best laser levels: Reviews & Recommendations

When you need precision, the best laser levels will help you complete your project with care. They’re available in a range of sizes and levels of accuracy and price. These picks should help you find the best option to stock your toolbox.

Best overall: Dewalt Line Laser

SEE IT

Why it made the cut: This option offers long-range and dual horizontal and vertical leveling functions at a reasonable price.

Specs

• Range: 100 feet
• Beam orientation: Vertical, horizontal
• Accuracy: 1/8-inch at 30 feet

Pros

• Durable design is water-resistant and shock-resistant
• 100-foot range
• Horizontal and vertical leveling
• Self-leveling

Cons

• More expensive than others

Dewalt is renowned for constructing well-designed, durable tools; this laser level is no exception. Like many other options, it offers both horizontal and vertical leveling. What sets this model apart is the durable construction that ensures you won’t be buying another one should it happen to take a tumble or spend time out in the rain. That’s because Dewalt protects this level with an over-molded housing that can endure drops from heights of up to a meter. It also has an IP54 rating, which means it will withstand being splashed with water. 

In addition to being ruggedly built, this laser level is also easy to use, thanks to its self-leveling capability and a versatile mounting system that’s compatible with a tripod. Its 100-foot range is ample distance for most indoor and outdoor applications. If that’s not enough, the Dewalt line laser is compatible with a detector that can increase its range to 165 feet. Fill out your tool set with one of the best power drills.

Best for pros: Bosch Three-Plane Self-Leveling Laser Level

SEE IT

Why it made the cut: With its ability to project horizontal, vertical, and 360-degree lines coupled with its long throw range of 200 feet in diameter (or 330 feet in pulse mode), this pick is an ideal choice for pros who use a laser level regularly.

Specs

• Range: 200 feet
• Beam orientation: Vertical, horizontal, 360-degree
• Accuracy: 3/32-inch at 30 feet

Pros

• Horizontal, vertical, and 3D capability
• Long range of 200 feet
• VisiMax technology improves laser visibility
• Self-leveling capability

Cons

• Significantly more expensive than other models

Though this model is one of the more expensive options on the market, the functionality this Bosch laser level offers makes it a worthy investment for pros. It functions as three laser levels in one—a horizontal, vertical, and 360-degree model—making it suitable for just about every leveling task one can throw at it, including lining up studs or hanging a room’s worth of pictures. Its beam orientations are also versatile, allowing you to project a single horizontal or vertical laser line, two vertical laser lines, or all three at once up to 200 feet.

In addition to its many beam orientation options, you’ll also change the batteries less often with this tool, thanks to Bosch’s VisiMax technology, which creates more intense light while conserving battery power. That battery-saving technology makes selecting a more powerful green light (this model comes in both red and green) a more attractive option. Then, if you’re looking for a tool that can help you fasten wood, consider one of the best impact drivers.

Best multi-functional: Klein Tools Laser Level

SEE IT

Why it made the cut: This model’s convenient plumb spot feature adds a degree of functionality that sets this laser level apart from the pack.

Specs

• Range: 100 feet
• Beam orientation: Vertical, horizontal
• Accuracy: 1/8-inch at 30 feet

Pros

• Integrated laser plumb spot feature
• Ruggedly built
• Projects horizontal and vertical lines
• Self-leveling

Cons

• Shorter 65-foot range

An integrated plumb spot feature is what makes this point-and-line laser level from Klein such a good pick. In addition to firing a laser line horizontally and vertically, it also drops a point directly above and below the unit, making it ideal for squaring and leveling studs or lining up light fixtures for installation. 

Adding to its versatility is a magnetic mounting bracket capable of turning 360 degrees and a ceiling clip mount. This unit also comes equipped with 5/8-inch and 1/4-inch 36-degree mounting brackets, making it compatible with a tripod. While its 65-foot range may not be quite on par with the 100-foot range of other similarly priced models, this option is ruggedly built with an IP54 water and dust-resistant rating and the ability to withstand a 3.3-foot drop.

Best point line: Bosch Combination Point and Line Laser Level

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Why it made the cut: Few point-and-line laser levels at this price have the versatile mounting options and accuracy this one offers.

Specs

• Range: 65 feet
• Beam orientation: Horizontal
• Accuracy: 3/16-inch at 33 feet

Pros

• Pinpoint accuracy for finding specific points
• Versatile mounting system
• Affordably priced
• Pinpoint range of 65 feet

Cons

• Does not self-level

While a standard vertical or horizontal level may be adequate for many applications, for installing you need to be able to transfer a point from one surface to another, such as when lining up joists or plumbing. For that job, you need a point laser level, and this model from Bosch is one of the best options.

For this type of use, the level must easily mount to a variety of surfaces. Bosch facilitates this by using an adhesive mounting strip that makes it easy to stick the level to a wall, column, or other surfaces. It’s also compatible with a 1/4-inch tripod.

We also like this level’s accuracy, hitting a spot up to 3/16th of an inch at 33 feet away. And while it isn’t self-leveling, vertical and horizontal bubble gauges on the side make it relatively easy to level it manually.

Best budget: Black+Decker Line Laser

SEE IT

Why it made the cut: By adding a stud finding function, this already affordably priced option is a great choice for DIYers who may only use a laser level for hanging items.

Specs

• Range: 20 feet
• Beam orientation: Horizontal
• Accuracy: 1/8-inch at 20 feet

Pros

• Dual function as laser level and stud finder
• Affordably priced
• User-friendly digital display

Cons

• Offers horizontal leveling only
• Short working range of just 20 feet

Unless you’re using a laser level regularly, it may not make a whole lot of sense to spend hundreds of dollars or even $100 on one. That’s what makes this pick from Black+Decker, a company known for its affordably priced tools, such a great option. In addition to being more affordable than other options, it also comes with an integrated stud finder. This makes it an excellent choice for leveling pictures, shelves, and other projects that often involve locating a wall stud.

This tool includes features that make it easier to operate, making it a great choice for those not accustomed to using laser levels and stud finders. Simple LED lights help you see when the unit is level or locates a stud. While this laser level only fires a horizontal beam up to 20 feet—making it unsuitable for more complex leveling jobs such as squaring house framing—its dual function is ideal for more basic projects, such as leveling framed artwork, aligning wall-mounted shelving, or lining up holes to drill mounts for a towel bar.

Things to consider before buying a laser level

Laser levels make home improvement projects easier, but there are some important features to consider before making an investment in one of these handy tools to find the best option for your needs.

Beam orientation

Beam orientation options in a laser level include horizontal, vertical, and 360-degree. Lower-end options run a single line horizontally or vertically on a single wall, while higher-end 360-degree laser levels run a line around all four walls of a room. Some laser levels can even run three 360-degree lines around the entire room, vertically and horizontally simultaneously. While these features are nice, remember that the more beam orientations the laser level offers, the more expensive it is.

Accuracy

To make something level, the level itself must be accurate. A good laser level should not have more than a 1/4-inch of deviation at 100 feet. That deviation should be even less for laser levels with a shorter range.

Self-leveling

Many laser levels will self-level automatically, eliminating the need to eyeball a bubble to level it manually. Self-leveling options are more accurate than your eyes, making them ideal for projects that demand precision.

Color

Laser levels come with either green or red beams. Red light is more affordable and puts less strain on the tool’s battery, but it is more difficult to see outdoors. Green lights are more expensive, use more battery power, and are potentially dangerous for your eyes, but they are easier to see outdoors and have a longer range.

FAQs

Final thoughts on the best laser levels

• Best overall: Dewalt Line Laser
• Best for pros: Bosch Three-Plane Self-Leveling Laser Level
• Best multi-functional: Klein Tools Laser Level
• Best point line: Bosch Combination Point and Line Laser Level
• Best budget: Black+Decker Line Laser

A laser level is an upgrade over the standard spirit bubble level, allowing you to level everything from pictures to shelves to house framing more easily and accurately. While cutting-edge 3D laser levels that create three planes of leveling are certainly nice gadgets, unless you’re a professional contractor, it probably doesn’t make sense to splurge on one. For most DIYers, an affordable laser level with horizontal beam orientation, like the Black+Decker Line Laser, will suffice.

Why trust us

Popular Science started writing about technology more than 150 years ago. There was no such thing as “gadget writing” when we published our first issue in 1872, but if there was, our mission to demystify the world of innovation for everyday readers means we would have been all over it. Here in the present, PopSci is fully committed to helping readers navigate the increasingly intimidating array of devices on the market right now.

Our writers and editors have combined decades of experience covering and reviewing consumer electronics. We each have our own obsessive specialties—from high-end audio to video games to cameras and beyond—but when we’re reviewing devices outside of our immediate wheelhouses, we do our best to seek out trustworthy voices and opinions to help guide people to the very best recommendations. We know we don’t know everything, but we’re excited to live through the analysis paralysis that internet shopping can spur so readers don’t have to.

The post The best laser levels of 2023 appeared first on Popular Science.

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Whether you’re working to create a romantic mood or trying to hex your ex, having a few candles around is a great way to set the scene. But all too often, a candle will reach the end of its useful life long before it’s actually run out of wax. Maybe you failed to trim your wick or prevent the dreaded tunneling that makes candles burn unevenly, leaving you with a lumpy mess that won’t hold a flame. Maybe you dropped a candle on the floor and don’t want the mess of wax scraps to go to waste. Even if you practice perfect candle-preserving etiquette, you’re bound to end up with at least a smidge of wax stuck to the bottom of your candle holder when all is said and done. 

If tossing bits of spent candles makes you feel guilty, there are ways to make your candle-buying habits more eco-friendly, like avoiding petroleum-based paraffins in favor of beeswax or soy, which have lower carbon footprints. But you can go one step further by recycling your candle scraps to make entirely new candles. The process is especially handy for making citronella candles to repel bugs naturally when you spend time outside. 

Stats

• Time: about an hour of active work, and at least 24 hours of resting time
• Cost: as low as 10 cents per candle
• Difficulty: easy

Tools

• Stove
• Saucepan 
• A glass or metal bowl, double boiler, or candle-making pot
• A shallow glass or metal baking pan
• Mason jar or glass measuring cup
• Popsicle stick, wooden skewer, or chopstick
• Kettle or microwave
• Cheesecloth or fine mesh strainer
• (Optional) oven mitts 
• (Optional) freezer 

How to melt old candles to make new ones

1. Harvest your used wax. You’ll need to separate the wax from the containers it’s stuck to so you can melt and reshape it. The exact process will depend on what candles you’re working with and what shape they’re in. Have candle scraps that are already free from their holders? You can skip this step entirely.

If your candles have melted into fragile candlesticks, try putting the candlesticks into the freezer for several hours before gently prying at the wax with a gentle implement, like a chopstick from a takeout order.

Otherwise, here is how to get wax out of candle jars, especially ones made of metal or glass: 

• Place the jars open-side-up in the shallow pan or baking sheet. You’ll want to sit the pan on something that won’t get damaged by heat. You can place it on your stovetop, a wooden cutting board, or an oven mitt to protect your countertops. 
• Boil a couple cups of water. 
• Pour some of the water into the pan so it surrounds the jars. Let the water get as high as it can without risking a dangerous spill. 
• Divide the rest of the water among the candle jars, leaving just a bit of space below the rim. 
• Leave this setup alone for about an hour. By then, the wax should have separated from the bottom of the jar, floated to the top, and cooled and hardened once again, making it easy to pull out. Put the wax aside to use later. 
• If some of the wax is still stuck, try jostling it with a popsicle stick or chopstick to loosen it, then repeat this process again. 

3. Prep your candle vessels. You can reuse old candle jars (just clean them with boiling water first) or use fresh tins from a candle making kit. 

4. Place your wicks. Most wicks come with double-sided stickers. Peel off one side and place the sticker in the center of a candle vessel. Unpeel the other side and stick the metal base of the wick on top. 

5. Melt your wax. This step is similar to the first step of regular candle making, but with the added concern of contaminants from the used wax. Your spent candles are bound to have bits of wick, metal wick-holders, and even ashy old matches stuck inside them. You don’t want any of that going into your new candles.

• Place your wax scraps into the pot or bowl you’re using as the top half of a double boiler.
• Fill your saucepan or the bottom of your double boiler about halfway with water (the exact amount isn’t important). Set it on the stove and place the container of wax scraps inside. If you’re using a bowl, you’ll want the bowl to nest inside the saucepan without touching the water or the bottom of the pan, so the water is simmering beneath it. Set the heat to medium. 
• Allow your wax to melt. This should take anywhere from five to 10 minutes, depending on how much you’re melting and what its composition is. Stir occasionally with your wooden implement to keep things heating evenly. 

6. Strain your wax. Your melted wax probably looks pretty gritty and gross. Straining impurities out will help your finished candles burn cleaner. They still might not be as clean as fresh wax when you’re done, which is why this recycling hack is especially great for DIY citronella candles—a little extra smokiness will just make them more effective against bugs. 

• Using a fine-mesh strainer or a piece of cheesecloth, strain the wax from the double-boiler into a clean mason jar or glass measuring cup.
  • Warning: If you’re using a glass or metal bowl instead of a candle-making pot or a double-boiler with a handle, make sure you use an oven mitt to protect your hands. Melted wax is hot!

7. (Optional) Repeat this process one or two more times, if desired. If wax starts to harden onto your measuring cup or mason jar, pop it in the microwave for 30 seconds to loosen the wax up again.

• Warning: Make sure no metal bits from the wax have ended up in the jar before you put it into the microwave! Microwaves can get electric currents going in metal, and metal objects with jagged or pointed edges can produce sparks that pose a fire hazard. 

Your wax will probably still look a bit murky after straining, especially if you’ve mixed colors. Prioritize getting all the metal wick pieces out. 

8. Add all the clean wax back into the double boiler so it melts completely.

9. (Optional) Add scents. If you want to make citronella candles, add five to 10 drops of citronella oil to the melted wax and stir. You can add other scented oils, too, including old perfume samples. Just make sure to keep the underlying smell of the recycled wax in mind. This is entirely based on your own sensory sensibilities. But for example, a pumpkin pie candle and an apple pie candle will probably combine to smell like baked goods. A pumpkin pie candle and a floral candle will probably just smell confusing and over-perfumed, because those scent profiles are very different and don’t tend to get paired together. A pumpkin pie candle and a smoky leathery whiskey candle might smell great, or it might be a chaotic assault to your senses! 

10. Pour your candles. If you need to hit the pause button after melting and straining your candles, you can simply take the double-boiler off the heat and allow the wax to cool. It will be ready to use whenever you want it. When you’re ready to pour your candles, reheat the wax using the same method detailed in Step 3. Then continue here:

• Remove your melted wax from the heat. If the vessel it’s in doesn’t already have a spout, consider transferring it to a glass measuring cup to make pouring easier.
• Slowly pour wax into each candle jar or tin. Leave at least half an inch of space at the top. 

11. Let the candles cure. Ideally, you should place your candles in a relatively warm spot so they cool down very slowly. This keeps them from splitting. As you can see from my photos, my air conditioning was a little too powerful for a smooth cooling process—they’d have come out prettier if I’d put them into the pantry.

Leave your candles undisturbed for 24 to 48 hours. They may appear hardened much sooner than this, but they’ll last longer if you wait until they’re fully set to burn them.

Should I only burn recycled candles outside?

Use your judgment on this one. At best, indoor candles risk introducing pollutants into the air, but they’re especially unhealthy if you see them burning black and emitting soot. Because recycled wax has already been through a few burns, it’s liable to already have some soot mixed in (especially if you have a terrible habit of dropping matches into your pillar candles like I do). The best and safest way to use recycled candles is for outdoor entertainment, which is why they make great citronella candles. But if your repurposed wax looks super pristine and burns as clean as your fresh candles, more power to you. 

The post How to Frankenstein old wax scraps into a totally new candle appeared first on Popular Science.

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Best overall		Singer Quantum Stylist 9960 Sewing Machine		SEE IT	High-speed capacity and a wide array of built-in stitches and fonts make this machine a versatile favorite for quilters and sewists.
Best budget		Brother XR3774 Sewing and Quilting Machine		SEE IT	An affordable,mechanical machine with a variety of built-in stitches, a well-designed walking foot for sewing layers of fabric, and attachments for quilting.
Best computerized		Brother HC1850 Sewing and Quilting Machine		SEE IT	A computerized machine with automatic drop feed for the free-motion sewing technique utilized by many quilters.

The right sewing machine for quilting suits the quilter’s level of expertise and budget, all while providing features and functionality that accommodate the sewing of large, bulky materials. Many quilters engage in sewing garments, home decor items, and craft projects in addition to quilting. For these sewists, versatile sewing machines fit the bill. While shopping for sewing machines, they may search for built-in, decorative stitches, as well as buttonhole stitches and monogramming fonts. On the other hand, serious quilters may seek out high-speed machines that produce only straight stitches for quilting. Additionally, they might select models that provide exceptionally large throat space and extended work tables to accommodate the bulky materials of large quilts. Below you’ll find our picks for the best sewing machines for quilting, no matter your level of expertise.

• Best overall: Singer Quantum Stylist 9960 Sewing Machine
• Best computerized: Brother HC1850 Sewing and Quilting Machine
• Best with a wide work table: Brother PQ1500SL Sewing and Quilting Machine
• Best with a large throat: Juki TL-2000Qi Sewing and Quilting Machine
• Best for free-motion sewing: Janome MC6650 Sewing and Quilting Machine
• Best budget: Brother XR3774 Sewing and Quilting Machine

How we chose the best sewing machines for quilting

A Craft Industry Alliance 2020 survey revealed the quilting market is estimated at $4.2 billion annually. Additionally, the group estimates that between 9 million and 11 million quilters in North America are actively involved in the art of quilt-making. Each quilting enthusiast seeks to utilize the best sewing machines for quilting, crafting, and sewing their unique projects, and each can find a specialized machine that suits their needs here. 

To begin our research on sewing machines for quilting, we read the product descriptions and specifications for 14 sewing and quilting machines from five different manufacturers. From that research, we selected six machines for our list of recommendations. To identify them, we took a deeper dive into the details, features, and specifications as described on the manufacturers’ websites. These companies are well-respected leaders in producing sewing and quilting machines; they include Singer, Brother, Janome, and Juki. In addition to reading the product descriptions, we gleaned additional information about the machines from critical and customer reviews and the answers to FAQs. 

We considered both computerized and mechanical sewing machines for quilting with special attention to automatic features that save time and effort for the user. Additionally, we searched for machines that include wide extension tables to accommodate the large swaths of fabric required for quilt-making projects. Knowing that the quilter must maneuver the bulky fabric through the machine, we considered the throat size of each machine. Additional factors included the availability of quilting feet, quilting guide bars, and drop-feed functioning for free-motion sewing. Although we did not limit our selections to machines with low-end price points, we did consider value and expense in our selection process.

The best sewing machines for quilting: Reviews & Recommendations

From making t-shirt quilts to handmaking your spread for your bed, one of our quilting picks should help you tackle your next big project.

Best overall: Singer Quantum Stylist 9960 Sewing Machine

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Why it made the cut: With a large, attachable work table, a vast array of built-in stitches, and numerous automatic features to save time and effort, the Singer Quantum Stylist 9960 sewing machine is favored by quilters.

Specs

• Weight: 20 pounds
• Product dimensions: 17.25 inches long by 8.25 inches wide by 12 inches high
• Computerized or mechanical: Computerized

Pros 

• Speed control with high-speed capacity
• Includes 14 interchangeable, attachable feet
• 600 built-in stitches with 5 fonts for monogramming
• Extension table for larger work area

Cons 

• The throat is not as large as some machines

The Singer Quantum Stylist 9960 computerized sewing machine receives high praise from quilters. Additionally, it’s a versatile machine that lends itself to myriad, creative sewing projects in addition to quilting. With an enormous array of 600 built-in stitches and five alphanumeric fonts, this machine allows sewists to fulfill their most imaginative quilting dreams. Quilters may elongate and mirror-image many of the built-in stitches to achieve truly unique designs.

In addition to accessories such as needles and bobbins, this machine includes a large extension table that is ideal for working with bulky quilts. Included, interchangeable accessories facilitate multiple sewing tasks, including: Quilting guide bar; General purpose foot; Zipper foot; Buttonhole foot; Satin foot; Blind hem foot; Narrow hem foot; Open toe foot; Cording foot; Darning/embroidery foot (may be used for free-motion sewing); Even feed/walking foot; Overcasting foot; Button sewing foot; and Quarter-inch foot.

The Quantum Stylist 9960 is capable of numerous functions that make sewing and quilting easier and more enjoyable. The speed control allows fast sewing of up to 850 stitches per minute for straight seams. Alternatively, sewers can select a slower pace for intricate patterns. For quick set-up, the see-through bobbin features a top drop-in design that allows easy monitoring of the thread supply. When it’s time to thread the needle, the machine accomplishes the job automatically, eliminating frustration and eye strain.

Best computerized: Brother HC1850 Sewing and Quilting Machine

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Why it made the cut: The Brother HC1850 computerized sewing machine offers quilter-friendly features, such as a spring-action quilting foot and free-motion sewing, along with push-button stitch selection and a backlit LCD screen.

Specs

• Weight: 10.14 pounds
• Product dimensions: 19.2 inches long by 12.5 inches wide by 15.2 inches high
• Computerized or mechanical: Computerized

Pros 

• Automatic drop feed for free-motion sewing
• 185 built-in stitches
• Large table workspace
• Automatic needle threader

Cons 

• The throat is not as large as some machines

Many quilters engage in various types of creative sewing projects, but they look for specific quilting functions when they shop for sewing machines. The Brother HC1850 computerized machine offers several preferred quilting features. These include a detachable wide table, a spring-action quilting foot, and the capability to perform free-motion sewing. On top of that, the machine boasts 185 built-in stitches, including 55 alphanumeric stitches for monogramming and eight one-step buttonhole stitches. Users may consult the built-in stitch flip-chart and select their preferred stitch patterns with push-button ease. Their selections display clearly on a backlit LCD screen. 

Numerous features of this machine facilitate creative quilting, sewing, and monogramming activities. Both the top drop-in bobbin and the automatic needle-threading system assist in quick and easy set-up. A speed-control system allows sewers to accomplish fast stitching for straight seams or utilize a slower pace for free-motion sewing and intricate patterns. At any speed, the advanced feed system ensures the smooth movement of multiple, diverse fabric types through the machine. Additionally, the bright LED light illuminates the work area for precision sewing.

The Brother HC1850 machine includes eight interchangeable feet for a variety of sewing and quilting functions, including: Spring-action quilting foot; Blindstitch foot; Buttonhole foot; Button-fitting foot; Overcasting foot; Monogramming foot; Zipper foot; and Zigzag foot. Additional accessories include needles, bobbins, a seam ripper, a screwdriver, and more.

Best with a wide work table: Brother PQ1500SL Sewing and Quilting Machine

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Why it made the cut: Boasting an extra-wide work table and a large throat, the Brother PQ1500SL machine adds a pin-feed mechanism, a built-in knee lifter, and four feed-dog adjustments to make quilting a dream come true.

Specs

• Weight: 29.76 pounds
• Product dimensions: 19.3 inches long by 7.9 inches wide by 12.6 inches high
• Computerized or mechanical: Mechanical

Pros 

• High-speed straight stitching
• Large throat area for bulky quilts
• Extra-large table work area
• Pin feed mechanism

Cons 

• A bit expensive
• Straight stitches only, no built-in, decorative stitches

For passionate quilters, the Brother PQ1500SL sewing machine offers several advantages over other machines that promote versatility for multiple types of sewing projects. It’s a straight-stitch machine that is capable of high-speed operation, up to 1,500 stitches per minute. But it does not offer built-in, decorative stitching options.

This machine provides the necessary workspace to create large quilts. The extra-wide, attachable table measures 11 inches by 21.5 inches. Additionally, the throat area is larger than most machines. It provides a needle-to-arm space of 5.7 inches by 8.6 inches. Both the extension table and the throat accommodate the extra bulk of quilting projects. 

When the feed-dog system is used, the machine allows four optional settings to achieve maximum control of diverse fabric types. Alternatively, this machine offers the option of a pin-feed mechanism that operates in lieu of the feed-dog system. An adjustable pin extends from below to maneuver all layers of a quilt together in a smooth feed through the machine. The spring-action quilting foot adjusts to variations in the layers and thickness of the fabric as it feeds through the machine. Additionally, the built-in knee lifter is a handy feature for quilters. It allows the sewer to lift and lower the presser foot by moving a lever with their knee. Therefore, the user’s hands are free to control the movement of the fabric. 

Along with needles, bobbins, and additional accessories, the machine includes seven interchangeable sewing feet, including: Spring-action quilting foot; Walking foot; Quarter-inch foot; General purpose foot; Rolled hem foot; Adjustable zipper/piping foot; and Invisible zipper foot.

Best with a large throat: Juki TL-2000Qi Sewing and Quilting Machine

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Why it made the cut: With its large throat area and wide, attachable table, the Juki TL-2000Qi sewing machine offers ample workspace for manipulating bulky quilting materials. 

Specs

• Weight: 25.4 pounds
• Product dimensions: 17.8 inches long by 8.6 inches wide by 13.8 inches high
• Computerized or mechanical: Mechanical

Pros 

• High-speed sewing, up to 1,500 stitches per minute
• Large throat area
• Wide, attachable extension table
• Knee lifter

Cons 

• Straight stitches only; does not include decorative stitches

With headquarters in Tokyo, Japan, the Juki Corporation and Juki America, Inc. provide sewing equipment for industrial use, as well as home sewing machines. The Juki TL2000Qi sewing machine is favored by quilters as a single-needle, lockstitch machine that is well-suited for high-speed, precision, straight-stitch sewing. One of its features favored by quilters is the large throat area, measuring 8.5 inches long by 5.9 inches high. Additionally, an attachable extension table offers extra space for sewing bulky quilts. 

Several convenient features make this sewing machine a delight to use. The automatic needle threader takes the frustration out of threading the needle, and the automatic thread trimmer cuts both the needle and bobbin threads simultaneously with only a light push of a button. An enlarged bobbin case area makes it easier than ever to remove and replace the bobbins. The knee lifter allows sewers to raise and lower the presser foot without using their hands. This feature means that users can keep their hands on the fabric at all times for greater control.

Simply turn a regulator on top of the machine to adjust the presser foot pressure for diverse types of fabric. Use the Needle Up/Down control to designate the needle position when the machine stops. A down position facilitates a pivoting action that is useful in the free-motion sewing technique required for many quilting projects.

The Juki TL2000Qi machine is capable of high-speed sewing, producing up to 1,500 stitches per minute. The arm and bed are constructed of die-cast aluminum to produce only minimal vibration when the machine is in use. Accessories and interchangeable feet include the following: Needle pack, bobbins, and spool cap; Screwdriver and lint brush; ⅕-inch quilting foot; Even-feed foot; Compensating presser foot; and Standard presser foot.

Best for free-motion sewing: Janome MC6650 Sewing and Quilting Machine

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Why it made the cut: The Janome Memory Craft 6650 sewing machine facilitates free-motion sewing, as well as offers a plethora of convenient features and accessories for creating beautiful, heirloom-quality quilts.

Specs

• Weight: 24.25 pounds
• Product dimensions: 20 inches long by 9 inches wide by 12 inches high
• Computerized or mechanical: Computerized

Pros 

• Drop-feed capability for free-motion sewing
• 6 LED lights in 3 locations
• High speed up to 1,000 stitches per minute
• 170 built-in stitches + 2 alphabets

Cons 

• Upper-end price point

Serious quilters who want to achieve new heights of artistic expression through their quilting projects may be interested in the computerized Janome Memory Craft 6650 sewing and quilting machine. One of the trademark techniques for quilters is free-motion sewing. This machine facilitates that technique through its drop-feed capability that lowers the feed dogs to disengage their hold on the fabric. Additionally, the programmable needle up/down feature allows users to pivot the fabric when the machine stops with the needle in the down position. Among the standard accessories, the MC6650 includes interchangeable parts for free-motion sewing, such as a convertible, free-motion quilting foot set; a free-motion quilting holder; and a free-motion quilting zigzag foot.

Create imaginative and unique quilts with the 170 built-in stitches, including many decorative options. A backlit LCD screen displays the stitches, and users simply push a button to make their selections. The built-in stitches include two alphabets for monogramming quilts and other sewing projects. Slide a lever to control the machine’s operating speed, up to 1,000 stitches per minute. 

Numerous convenient features make the Janome MC6650 a joy to operate. The machine includes two needle plates along with a one-push needle plate conversion mechanism. An automatic needle threading system takes the annoyance out of threading the needle. The entire work area is well-lit via six LED lights placed in three locations on the machine. Use the manual thread-tension control to adjust the tension for various fabric types, then enjoy the smooth feed of fabric facilitated by the 5-piece feed-dog system.

In addition to the free-motion accessories mentioned above, the Janome MC6650 machine offers an array of standard, interchangeable parts for versatility in sewing projects, including: Blind hem foot G; Buttonhole foot; Darning foot; Open-toe satin stitch foot; Overedge foot M; Rolled hem foot; Satin stitch foot; Zigzag foot; and Zipper foot E.

Best budget: Brother XR3774 Sewing and Quilting Machine

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Why it made the cut: For budget-minded quilters, the Brother XR3774 mechanical sewing machine offers numerous friendly features, including a large table, spring-action quilting foot, and a quilting guide bar.

Specs 

• Weight: 15.87 pounds
• Product dimensions: 15.3 inches long by 8 inches wide by 12 inches high
• Computerized or mechanical: Mechanical

Pros 

• Large extension table
• Spring-action quilting foot for free-motion sewing
• 37 built-in stitches
• Automatic needle threader

Cons 

• Not computerized
• Not as many built-in stitches as some machines

Available at an affordable price point, the Brother XR3774 sewing machine offers multiple features that quilters appreciate. The extra-large table facilitates manipulating the bulky fabric of large quilts. Additionally, a well-designed walking foot allows sewists to simultaneously feed multiple layers of fabric through the machine. A transparent plastic quilting foot promotes visibility for the sewer. On top of that, the quilting foot features a spring-action design to raise and lower the foot as it glides over varying layers of fabric. An included quilting guide bar helps quilters achieve evenly spaced rows of stitches in their projects. 

Although this mechanical machine does not feature the high-tech attributes of computerized machines, it does offer numerous convenient features to make sewing tasks easier. Sewists can utilize the 37 built-in stitches for 74 stitch functions, including a 1-step, buttonhole maker with automatic sizing. The automatic needle threader saves time and frustration, and the top drop-in bobbin is jam resistant for trouble-free sewing sessions. Additionally, the machine winds the bobbin automatically. When users are not working on quilting projects, the built-in free arm allows sewing in tight spaces, such as cuffs, sleeves, and trouser legs. 

See all of the functions and features of the XR3774 machine via the bright LED light that illuminates the work area. Shift from one sewing task to another by attaching the eight interchangeable sewing feet that come with the machine, including: Quilting foot; Walking foot; Blind stitch foot; Zipper foot; Zigzag foot; Buttonhole foot; Button sewing foot; and Narrow hem foot.

Things to consider before buying a sewing machine for quilting

Quilting is an ancient, decorative art that dates back to the Middle Ages in Europe and to earlier centuries in the Middle East and Asia. Today, millions of sewists engage in the art of quilting to produce utilitarian bed coverings that also exist as works of art and become family heirlooms for future generations. For quilters, sewing machines with specialized features provide the best tools for their craft. Before selecting a machine for quilting, shoppers might consider the following factors.

Extra-wide work table

Sewing a quilt requires manipulating large swaths of fabric with multiple layers through the sewing machine. For this purpose, the free arm of a machine does not provide sufficient workspace. Therefore, sewers need a detachable work table that may be fitted in place to enlarge the horizontal work surface. Quilters may search for sewing machines that advertise a wide extension table to ensure adequate space for maneuvering the bulky fabric of a quilt.

Large throat area

The throat of a sewing machine is the open space bordered by the upright arm, the horizontal arm, the sewing head, and the bed of the machine. With a longer horizontal arm and a taller vertical arm, the throat area is larger and, therefore, capable of accommodating the bulky materials of a quilt. Quilting and sewing machines for home use are generally classified as short-arm machines. Within this category, many throats measure only approximately 5-inches long. However, quilters might search for models that feature throats measuring 8- to 9-inches long.

Free motion sewing

For most sewing projects, the metal teeth of the feed dogs emerge through the throat plate of the machine to guide the fabric in a straight line as it feeds through the machine and under the needle for stitching. The teeth of the feed dogs gently grip the fabric to control its movement. However, many quilting projects require free-motion sewing, a technique where the feed dogs are disengaged to allow the sewist to control the movement of the fabric and the direction of the stitching. Quilters create interesting designs with the free-motion technique. Therefore, they search for sewing machines that advertise the drop feed feature, indicating that the feed dogs may be disengaged to allow free-motion sewing.

FAQs

Final thoughts on the best sewing machines for quilting

• Best overall: Singer Quantum Stylist 9960 Sewing Machine
• Best computerized: Brother HC1850 Sewing and Quilting Machine
• Best with a wide work table: Brother PQ1500SL Sewing and Quilting Machine
• Best with a large throat: Juki TL-2000Qi Sewing and Quilting Machine
• Best for free-motion sewing: Janome MC6650 Sewing and Quilting Machine
• Best budget: Brother XR3774 Sewing and Quilting Machine

The Singer Quantum Stylist 9960 receives high marks from reviewers and sewists ranging from beginners to seasoned experts who applaud its durability and versatility. With computerized functioning, it offers a wide array of automatic features that make sewing a pleasurable activity, leading to successful outcomes in quilting, sewing, and crafting projects. For ease of use and versatile features, the Quantum Stylist 9960 is an ideal choice as the best sewing machine for quilters and sewing enthusiasts. 

Why trust us

Popular Science started writing about technology more than 150 years ago. There was no such thing as “gadget writing” when we published our first issue in 1872, but if there was, our mission to demystify the world of innovation for everyday readers means we would have been all over it. Here in the present, PopSci is fully committed to helping readers navigate the increasingly intimidating array of devices on the market right now.

Our writers and editors have combined decades of experience covering and reviewing consumer electronics. We each have our own obsessive specialties—from high-end audio to video games to cameras and beyond—but when we’re reviewing devices outside of our immediate wheelhouses, we do our best to seek out trustworthy voices and opinions to help guide people to the very best recommendations. We know we don’t know everything, but we’re excited to live through the analysis paralysis that internet shopping can spur so readers don’t have to.

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MAGIC FIRST TOOK SHAPE from the occult—from unseen forces once more popularly believed to flow from the spirit world to alter the course of mortal events. Throughout history, magicians were seen as aloof figures mysteriously granted secret knowledge to channel numinous power. In some cultures and times, magicians held sway as oracles and shamans; in others, they were shunned as sorcerers and witches—or worse. It wasn’t until the late 19th century that magic made a break from its mostly mystical roots. Interest in magic grew exponentially into the 20th century when it became a popular performing art, sparking decades of fantastic feats of illusion, conjuring, and escapology known as the Golden Age of Magic.

Given magic’s history, it is particularly apt that in 1930, in the midst of magic’s heyday, Popular Science offered readers do-it-yourself instructions for building a “spiritphone”—a gadget capable of making prophecies by dint of its apparent radio connection with “the land of the departed.”   

“The spiritphone,” wrote George S. Greene, “is easy to construct and still easier to operate, and is one of the most effective tricks for the amateur magician.” The trick’s premise is to guess the name of a famous person secretly picked by a member of the audience. 

Slips of blank paper are handed out, and each audience member jots down the name of a “departed hero or famous [person]” of their own choosing. The folded slips are then collected in a hat. A member of the audience is chosen at random to select a folded slip, without peering at the name. The magician hands that volunteer the spiritphone, but not before barely turning a fake screw at its base, which brings the name of a famous person into view on the spiritphone’s dial. The volunteer is then instructed to ask the spiritphone, via a receiver, what name is on the slip of paper. The spiritphone “responds,” and the volunteer announces to the audience what they “hear”—which really means what they see on the spiritphone’s display. To everyone’s delight, the spiritphone’s answer matches what’s written on the folded slip of paper. That’s because when the slips of paper are collected from the audience, with sleight of hand, the magician tucks them into the hat’s interior sweatband and replaces them with slips that all bear the same name, preselected by the magician. The spiritphone has the same name imprinted on the rotating display in its interior mechanism, which Greene’s instructions explain how to build.

Greene was a longtime Popular Science contributor who covered the magic beat, regularly explaining how tricks worked. One such article, written in January 1929, “Famous Magic Tricks Explained,” garnered protest from readers who didn’t want the magazine to reveal what was behind the curtain and spoil the charm of mainstream magic’s spell.

For instance, Greene explained how escapologists, like the legendary Harry Houdini, could vanish from an enclosed tank filled with water. Such tanks, it turns out, had a concealed trap door connected to a man-sized tube that deposited the performer backstage. “To perform the feat,” Greene explained, “one must, of course, have the ability to stay under water for the minute or two required.” Houdini could definitely hold his breath, but did he possess supernatural abilities? According to Greene, the trick is in the prop. Magicians are “specialists in woodcraft and metalworking, electricity, and psychology, and the ideas worked out are, in many cases, equal in cleverness to the products of our modern inventors.” 

In Greene’s time, carnivals were a popular venue for magic, and fortune telling was a cornerstone of traveling performances. Remember the crystal-gazing Omaha magician who becomes the Wizard in L. Frank Baum’s The Wonderful Wizard of Oz (an American classic with magic and illusion at its core)? The rise of television after World War II offered magicians an opportunity to branch out from their vaudeville roots. Today, David Copperfield is perhaps one of the best-known practicing illusionists. The 2013 blockbuster movie Now You See Me took illusion to a whole new level with the assistance of magic consultant (yes, there is such a profession), David Kwong.

Do-it-yourselfers nostalgic for the simple but clever magical props popular nearly a century ago can still follow Greene’s detailed spiritphone instructions. Some woodworking knowledge is a prerequisite, and a few modernizations might make the trick more relatable for a contemporary audience. For instance, a Bluetooth earbud or headset could replace the tethered receiver. An enterprising DIY magician might even connect it to their smartphone so a prerecorded name could be whispered into the assistant’s ear to match the secret name on the spiritphone’s display. Oh, and you’ll want to bring your own hat. It’s not likely that anyone in a 2020s audience will be able to offer a 1920s-style felt hat equipped with a paper-slip-concealing interior sweatband. 

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Woodworking often requires a combination of force and finesse—you need enough strength to jam tight-fitting pieces together, but not so much that you damage your project. A dead-blow mallet is fantastic for those more delicate tasks. 

The heads on these tools are usually soft and contain small weights that shift forward with each strike, keeping the momentum of the blow. This maximizes the force transfer while reducing the mallet’s bounce upon impact. 

You can easily make your own dead-blow mallet with scrap wood. The process is highly satisfying, and the resulting tool is exceptionally useful, particularly if you’re interested in making large furniture.  

How to build a dead-blow mallet

1. Mill your lumber to size. To make the head of your mallet, you’ll sandwich three boards together and cut out cavities in the middle one to accommodate the weights. Add the handle and you’ll be cutting four wood pieces in total for this project: 

• 2 (3-by-6-inch) ¾-inch-thick boards for the outer pieces 
• 1 (3-by-6-inch) 1 ½-inch-thick board for the middle piece
• 1 (1-by-12-inch) 1-inch-thick board for the handle

This is one of those projects where flat boards and tight glue joints matter, so careful and proper milling is crucial. Use your jointer to flatten one face of each of your boards and square one of the edges to that face. Continue by using a planer to bring the boards down to their final thickness and cut them to width on the table saw. 

• Pro tip: To give the project a nice contrast, I used maple for the outer boards and the handle, and sapele for the middle piece. As long as it’s hardwood, you can use whatever you have available from other projects. 

2. Mark the handle position on the middle piece. Find the center lines on the middle piece and use the intersection as a reference to mark out the width of the handle—a 1-by-1-inch square. Measure this slightly oversize to be safe. 

You won’t use any of these lines for cutting the handle mortise, but they’ll help you know where the handle will fall before cutting out the cavities for the weights.

3. Draw the cavities on the middle piece. Measure and mark one equally sized cavity on each side of the handle’s position. To do so, draw straight lines half an inch from each edge of the board and each side of the handle’s future location to use as margins. This will leave you with two cavities approximately 1 ½ inches square. 

4. Cut out the cavities. The easiest way to go about this is by drilling ⅜-inch holes at each corner of each cavity with a drill press and using those holes as starting points as you cut out the cavities with a jigsaw. The cavities will be hidden inside the board sandwich, so they don’t have to be pretty. 

5. Glue the middle piece to one of the outer pieces and let it dry completely. Don’t move on to the next step if the glue is even slightly wet: you don’t want any of the ball bearings you’re using for weight to get stuck in there. 

6. Fill the cavities with the steel shot and finish gluing the mallet’s head. Pour about a quarter-pound of ball bearings into each cavity—you don’t have to be precise. Spread some glue on the open face of the middle piece and attach the remaining outer piece, completing the sandwich and sealing the steel weights inside. 

7. Cut the mortise for the handle. You’ll install the handle using a wedged mortise and tenon. This entails inserting a piece of wood (the tenon) into a matching hole (the mortise) and finishing by inserting two long wedges into the tenon to further secure it in place once it’s installed. This technique provides more stability than using just glue and a straight tenon alone. And I don’t know about you, but I like stability on a tool I’m planning to hit stuff with. 

Measure and draw out a centered ¾-by-¾-inch square for the mortise on the top and bottom of the mallet head. The mortise will run all the way through, so use a drill press or plunge router to hog out most of the material. Use chisels to clean up the edges. 

• Note: You’ll notice the mortise size is about ¼-inch narrower than the handle—this difference will allow the head of the mallet to safely rest on the handle, providing additional support and better aesthetics. 

8. Widen the center of the mortise. A practical mortise is straight and square at each opening but widens somewhat in the middle. This makes it easier to slip the tenon all the way through. 

Use your chisels to widen the inside of the mortise, but leave a half-inch on each end untouched.   

9. Cut the tenon to match the mortise. Shape a 3 ¼-inch tenon into the handle using a dado stack and a crosscut sled on your table saw. That sounds like a lot, so let’s break it down:

Set your blades to just under ⅛-inch above the surface of your crosscut sled. This will allow you to trim the tenon from all four sides, nearly matching the width of your mortise (¾ inches square). Cut the tenon slightly too wide to fit at first—it’s best to sneak up on the correct size until the tenon fits snugly into the mortise. If you take off too much, it will wiggle around and your dead-blow mallet will be unsafe to use. 

• Pro tip: To save time, start by trimming only the very end of the handle to fit the mortise—about a ½-inch. Once you’ve found the right blade height for a perfect fit, you can go ahead and cut the full tenon. 

10. Cut the wedge slots in the tenon. At the base of the tenon, draw two points 3/16 inches from each edge, and use them as guides to drill two ⅛-inch holes. Use a bandsaw or table saw to cut straight down from the tip of the tenon to the holes—these are the slots your wedges will fit into. You don’t have to be too neat about this, as these cuts will be almost entirely hidden and no one will see any mistakes.

11. Shape the handle. Before assembling anything, make a comfortable handle—this will be hard to do after the mallet head is in place. 

Handle-making is almost an art unto itself, so if you’re an enthusiast, you can try your favorite shapes and techniques. I like to shave down handle wood into a sort of rounded diamond shape using a card scraper, and then I finish things off with an orbital sander. You can also use a bandsaw to cut the wood down to the initial form and clean everything up on a belt sander. 

If you want to go with something even simpler, you can just wrap a square board in leather string. 

12. Sand and decorate the mallet head. Use at least 120-grit paper, which should be enough to clean up the glue seams and smooth everything out. Don’t waste your time trying to create an ultra-smooth surface—you’ll be hitting stuff with your mallet and the finish won’t last long. 

If you want to add any decorative elements to your mallet, this is the time to do it. I rounded over all the edges with my orbital sander, but you can use a router with a roundover or chamfer bit instead. 

13. Cut the wedges. The safest and most reliable way to cut wedges is to use a jig. If you don’t have one, you can build one, but that takes time. 

Instead, you can use a simple wedge-cutting technique from YouTube creator and woodworking expert, Jonathan Katz-Moses. Start by taping a spacer to one end of your wedge wood, press it against the fence of your table saw to create an angle, and run the wood through it to cut your first wedge. Continue by flipping the board around and running it through the other way for the second wedge. 

This project only needs two pieces, but you can keep flipping that wood until you have all the wedges you need. 

14. Insert the tenon into the mortise and secure it with the wedges. Spread some glue on the inside of the mortise and push the tenon through. Continue by smearing glue on the wedges and driving them into the slots you cut into the tip of the tenon—this should spread the wood apart, locking the handle in place. Gently hammer the wedges down until they cannot go any farther. Cut off the excess with a flush trim saw. 

15. Let everything dry for a few hours. 

16. Clean up. Sand off any glue residue and use wood putty or a glue and sawdust combo to fill in any gaps. 

Sand down the trimmed wedges and shape the tip of the tenon with sandpaper. If you don’t want the protrusion, you can cut it off completely with a bandsaw. 

17. (Optional) Soften the mallet faces. Dead-blow mallets are often used to assemble furniture. This means they need to be gentle, so it’s a good idea to soften its faces. 

I use basic spray adhesive to glue a piece of leather to the end of mine, but you can also use rubber, cork, or any similar material you might have laying around. Just don’t secure it with screws or nails—you don’t want anything marring or scratching the gorgeous finish of your latest build. 

The post Don’t buy a dead-blow mallet—build your own appeared first on Popular Science.

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Margarine has been the go-to vegan butter alternative for years, but there’s a new kid on the block that we actually can’t believe isn’t butter: Cultured vegan butter. 

If you stick to a plant-based diet—or are looking for ways to cut animal products out of your diet for health, environmental, or ethical reasons—this project is a great culinary experiment to try. 

Making cultured vegan butter at home does require some specialty ingredients. So depending on where you live and what grocery stores you have access to, it might not actually save you much money versus buying your own. Even so, the process is surprisingly easy and incredibly satisfying. You’ll feel like some kind of plant-based homesteader, and maybe even ready to tackle some more ambitious home fermentation projects. 

Tools

• Blender 
• Small saucepan 
• Stove
• An 8-ounce mason jar or larger (or a similarly sized glass bowl)
• Strainer 
• Measuring cup
• Measuring spoons 
• Scissors 
• (Optional) cheesecloth (or dish towel)
• (Optional) silicone butter mold

How to make vegan butter

1. Make a non-dairy cream. This will serve as the base for your DIY cultured vegan butter. I’ve tested this recipe using cashews and sunflower seeds, which have a somewhat neutral taste. Nuts with stronger flavors, like walnuts, should work.

If you have seed and nut allergies, you can skip the process of making your own cultured cream and use store-bought plain and unsweetened vegan cultured yogurt. Keep in mind that if it doesn’t mention probiotics or “living cultures,” you’ll still need to follow steps two and three before proceeding.

To make the non-dairy cream, follow these steps:

• Place the raw nuts or seeds in a saucepan and cover them with water. 
• Bring them to a boil over medium heat and let them simmer for about 15 minutes. 
• (Optional) Add a pinch of MSG to give the nuts some extra umami oomph.
• (Optional) Add a sprinkle of turmeric to the water if you want your butter to be yellow. Fair warning—it may turn out more margarine-y than a natural butter shade. 
• Drain the nuts. 
• Add the nuts to a blender with 1/2-cup of filtered water. 
• Blend until you get a heavy cream texture. Different kinds of nuts could result in different consistencies. If you don’t get the desired smoothness, you can adjust the mix by slowly adding more water.
• Finish by pouring your non-dairy cream into a glass bowl or mason jar. 

• Note: Do not use a metal container, as the material might react with the acidic fermenting cream, either messing up your bowls or changing the flavor of your finished product.

[Related: Don’t waste banana peels: Turn them into tasty vegan ‘pulled pork’]

2. Add the probiotics. Probiotics are what puts the culture in cultured vegan butter. Carefully open a capsule and add the powder to your non-dairy cream. Don’t overthink it—hold one end of the capsule in your fingertips and snip it down the middle with scissors. Repeat this with a second capsule and stir to incorporate. 

• Pro tip: If you don’t want to buy probiotics for this recipe, you can use a spoon of any cultured yogurt or kefir, or even whip up your own rejuvelac.

3. Cover your non-dairy cream and let it ferment. Use the mason jar ring, a rubber band, or string to secure a cheesecloth or dish towel over the cream. This will protect it from dust and bugs while still allowing it to breathe. Place the concoction somewhere safe, away from direct sunlight and extreme temperatures. A pantry is perfect. 

Give the cream between 24 and 48 hours to ferment. You can start taste-testing after 12 hours and stop the fermentation process whenever the flavor is right—you’re looking for a pleasantly tangy taste, like Greek yogurt.

• Note: Always use a clean spoon when tasting the cream and don’t double dip—you don’t want to introduce the wrong sorts of bacteria.  

4. (Optional) Pop your cultured cream into the fridge. Do this if you’re not ready to finish the butter right away. The cream may continue to develop more tanginess as it slowly ferments in the cool of the fridge. Use it within the next three to four days for best results.  

5. Measure half a cup of cultured vegan cream and add it to your blender. Then add the coconut oil and vegetable oil. For the latter, use something neutral, like sunflower oil, or something you like the taste of, like a good olive oil. Using unrefined coconut oil will work just as well, but the resulting butter will taste like coconut. 

Continue by adding the lecithin and salt. I’ve previously made this recipe using liquid lecithin, but this time I replaced it with two teaspoons of powdered lecithin. The latter worked fine, but I recommend sticking with liquid if you can find it. Powdered lecithin doesn’t affect the taste or texture of the final product, but it does make it look a little speckled. 

• Pro tip: If you end up with more cream than you need, you can pop it in the freezer and add it to a pasta sauce or soup. 

6. (Optional) Add coloring. If you used yogurt or didn’t add turmeric when making your vegan cream, you can add natural food coloring now. It will give it that classic dairy-butter yellow. The blog Full of Plants recommends a bit of carrot juice, but you can also experiment with plant-based food dyes and other colorful vegetables and spices. 

7. Emulsify the ingredients. Slowly blend the mixture—start with 30 seconds and continue with 10-second spurts until completely smooth. Be careful with blending too much or too long, as it can cause the emulsion to heat up due to friction and split.

Emulsification blends fats and water into a uniform liquid. Lecithin helps stabilize emulsions and gives your butter the creamy consistency you crave.

8. Pour your butter into a mold or container. You can use a silicone butter mold with a lid, which is great for minimizing potential spills. You can also line any loaf pan or plastic container with parchment paper to make unmolding easier. 

9. Let the butter set. Start by putting your butter in the freezer for one to three hours. Once it’s nice and solid you can move it to the fridge, where it should be the right consistency to eat and enjoy after three to four hours. 

[Related: The coolest way to keep food cool without electricity]

10. Enjoy your cultured vegan butter. Your butter is now ready to bake with, cook with, and spread all over your carbohydrates of choice. Keep your creamy concoction in the fridge, where it will be at its best for about a week. For long-term storage, you can freeze it. 

What is cultured vegan butter?

When you make cultured foods like sourdough bread, kombucha, and yogurt, you deliberately initiate the fermentation process by using a starter culture—a batch of the living microorganisms you want growing inside. 

Most dairy butter is not cultured but made from churning cream for a prolonged period of time, which makes the milk fats separate from the solids and glob together. Making cultured butter is similar, but you need to add bacterial cultures to the pasteurized cream and let it sit for a day or so to ferment before churning. Cultured butter stans love the tangy taste it often acquires, but the process also serves to amp up the buttery flavors you already know and love. 

[Related: A complete guide to vegan muscle building]

The post How to make simple and delicious vegan butter appeared first on Popular Science.

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In addition to properly milling up your lumber, knowing how to connect boards at crisp and strong 90-degree angles is one of the most important skills woodworking novices need to master. Luckily, there are a lot of different ways to do it. 

As with so much in this craft, there’s not really one best way to join boards. The method you use will vary depending on variables like the tools you have available, your budget, how many of each type of joint you’re making, whether your project needs to look high-end, and, of course, what technique you think would be fun to work with on any given day. 

Any of the following four joining techniques should be accessible to beginner woodworkers and provide good-quality joints that should last for years. 

Screw through from the outside

The simplest way to make a 90-degree joint is to screw from the outside face of one board into the connecting end of the other. As you usually do when using screws, you’ll need to pre-drill the holes to ensure that neither board splits. 

If you choose this approach you might want to countersink the holes for the screw heads so that they sit below the surface of the wood. This will help hide the screw heads and prevent the hardware from splitting the board if you drive it all the way in. But countersinking can also prevent accidents by keeping your shirt from catching on one of the screws while you’re working or just innocently walking by. 

If you don’t like the look of screws, you can cover them with wood putty or drill a countersink hole big enough so you can hide the screw head with a dowel. This can also be a design opportunity—by using contrasting wood for your dowels, you can add an interesting visual accent to your piece. 

[Related: The surprising woodworking tools you already have around the house]

One of the drawbacks of only using screws to build squared joints is that all the pressure of the connection will be concentrated on the area right around the screws. This means the boards are more likely to break or crack in those particular places—especially if they’re thin. Screws can also loosen over time as the joint flexes with use and the wood’s natural expansion and contraction over seasons. 

To make this joint stronger, you can add a bead of glue along the edge of one of the boards to help alleviate the strain. In this case, the glue will act as the main hold while the screws essentially serve as clamps until the adhesive dries. 

Use pocket hole screws for easy-to-hide joints

If you don’t want to see any screws or patched holes, you can try pocket hole screws. This method will require a pocket hole jig, which is inexpensive and will allow you to drill faster and more accurately. 

Using the jig, drill long, angled holes into the face of one board, pointing toward the edge. These holes hold the screws at an angle, letting them emerge from the edge and drive into the other board. As long as you plan your project carefully, you may be able to keep these holes hidden from view by placing them inside, underneath, or behind your finished piece. If you must drill a hole on a visible part of your project, or you just want to go for a polished no-holes look, you can plug them with pre-cut or standard dowels. Just keep in mind that a lot of the time these plugs will still be somewhat visible, so it’s better to plan ahead and keep them hidden whenever possible. 

The pocket hole screws method suffers from the same limitation as the previous technique on this list—the breaking force is all focused in a very small area. But just like we mentioned above, a line of glue will help stabilize pocket-screwed boards over the long term. 

Pocket hole screws and glue are how I built my very first piece of furniture, which is still as solid as the day I made it over ten years ago.

Dados create mechanical support between boards

Using screws and glue to join wood is fine, but if you want more stability and durability, you can insert one board into another. This is where simple dados come into play. 

A dado joint essentially consists of a channel cut into one board that is the same width as the connecting board, allowing the pieces to fit together tightly. As an added benefit, dados provide more surface area for glue to adhere to: along the three faces of the channel rather than only on the edge of each board. This makes the adhesive stronger and the wood less likely to crack. 

You can make one of these joints by using a dado stack on your table saw. If you don’t have one of those, you can take multiple passes with a single blade, or use a router with a straight cut bit and a straightedge.

Use dowels, biscuits, and dominos for joints with invisible connections

The last and most advanced technique on our list is using dowels, biscuits, or dominos. The idea is to drill matching holes on adjoining boards and glue a specifically shaped piece of wood into those holes to connect the boards. 

The easiest and cheapest of these options is to use standard dowels and a doweling jig with your power drill. Mark out where you want the holes to be and use the guides on the jig to drill them out. Glue the dowel into place, smear some glue along the edges of the boards, and clamp them together until the glue is dry. This essentially creates a mortise and tenon joint, without having to actually cut a mortise and tenon, which is time-consuming and requires skill and practice. Like the dado, this method adds strength to the joint by providing mechanical support and increasing the glued surface area. As an added benefit, the fasteners are completely hidden inside the boards, creating smooth transitions.

[Related: Build your own router sled to flatten wood without buying big, expensive tools]

Biscuits and dominos are functionally the same in principle but use differently shaped pieces of wood. They also require specialized, more expensive tools. Biscuits, which are flat, thin, and generally oval-shaped slices of wood, tend to be more for alignment than adding much in the way of strength to a joint. Dominos, on the other hand, are like wide, flat dowels, and provide alignment as well as a great deal of shear strength. 

If you’re an occasional user, a doweling jig works well and is the lowest-cost option—this is what I use. If you’re primarily interested in gluing up panels and keeping them flat while clamping, then a biscuit joiner is a great choice. If you eventually decide to make a lot of furniture with complex angles at the joints, then investing in a domino jointer machine might be worth the high price. 

The post 4 ways beginner woodworkers can craft impressively square joints appeared first on Popular Science.

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Whether it’s a science project for your kids or a tool to clean your keyboard, you should learn how to make slime. It’s quick, fun, and easy, no matter what you use the sticky substance for. 

For this basic slime recipe, you’ll only need ingredients you probably already have at home, and the result will be a mesmerizing goo that can be relaxing, useful, or both. 

How to make slime

1. Mix the glue and half the water. Pour a half-cup of water into a measuring cup and add the glue. Stir until it’s completely mixed. 

• Pro tip: If you want to make a bigger or smaller batch, you can adjust the quantities of the glue and water you use in this step as long as you keep a 1:1 ratio between the two.

2. (Optional) Add food coloring. If you’re using food coloring, how much you use will depend on how bright you want your slime to be. If you want a color that truly pops, you’ll need to add at least five drops of food coloring. You can combine as many hues as you want, but make sure to stir thoroughly after every drop so you don’t end up with a brownish or greyish goo—unless that’s what you’re going for. As a reference, we used three drops of food coloring to achieve the minty green slime pictured above. 

Once you’re happy with the color, stir again to make sure the mix is homogeneous. 

[Related: How to make your own bath bombs]

3. Make your borax solution. Add the borax to the remaining half-cup of water and stir until the white powder is fully dissolved. This will happen more easily in warm water, but cold water will do just fine—it’ll just require some extra stirring. 

• Pro tip: A good way to ensure the borax is fully dissolved is to stir and wait a couple of seconds. If you still see borax crystals gathering at the bottom of your container, keep stirring.
  

4. Gradually add the borax solution to the glue mix while you stir. Do this in multiple small pours, or one spoonful at a time. You’ll notice the texture of the glue will immediately change and become sticky and slime-like, and you should only add more of the borax solution if there’s still any glue mix left. You might not need to use all of it. You’re done when the glue becomes one big blob.  

• Note: The proportions in this recipe should get you to the right texture, but if some of the glue mix still hasn’t turned into slime after you’ve combined everything, you can make more borax solution.

5. Drop your slime on a clean surface, knead, and enjoy. Your newly born slime will require some kneading before it reaches a uniform texture. At first, the goo might stick to your hands, but it should retain its integrity after you play with it for a couple of seconds. 

6. (Optional) Make your slime last longer. Slime has a limited life span depending on the temperature and humidity, and it’ll become brittle and less elastic in hot, dry weather. If you want to prolong the life of your slime, you can store it in a cool place inside an airtight container or zip-top bag. Spraying some water on it before you store it will also help prevent it from drying out. 

The post The easiest way to make slime appeared first on Popular Science.

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Everyone loves baths. And few things make them better than bath bombs, those delightful chunks of good-smelling stuff that explode into colorful fizz in your tub. You can find them at discount stores, beauty shops, and drugstores, but crafting your own is way more fun.

Buying the necessary ingredients in bulk and learning how to make bath bombs will get you a lot more bang for your buck, and add a personal touch to your bath blasts. Plus, you can customize color, scent, and shape to perfectly suit any holiday or a lucky recipient’s preferences. Also, no one will know if you save a couple dozen for yourself. 

Baking soda, also known as sodium bicarbonate, is what will make your homemade bath bombs explode: When the high pH powder reacts with a low pH acid, it produces carbon dioxide bubbles. Remember those baking soda and vinegar volcanoes you made in elementary school? The citric acid in this recipe takes the place of vinegar in this chemical equation, but it doesn’t react with sodium bicarbonate until it gets wet. 

[Related: Make your own seed bombs to garden on the go]

2. Add dry decorations. At this stage, you can add decorations like biodegradable glitter or dried flower petals, or herbs into the mix. Just don’t use regular-old craft glitter, because it’s no good for our friends in the ocean.

• Note: More decorations can make for more fun and interesting bath bombs, but more ingredients will elevate the cost per fizzy orb. 

3. Pour the oil and water into a jar. You can use any vegetable oil you like, but one rich in fatty acids and vitamins (you may have one in your kitchen) will add extra moisturizing powers to your bath bombs.  

4. Add scent to the jar of wet ingredients. This is a critical step, because a bath bomb that smells bad is basically a wet stink bomb. You can tweak the proportions to suit your taste, but you should only use about 2 teaspoons of essential oil or perfume in total. You can try cinnamon, cocoa, peppermint, or coffee scents for the winter holidays (or a combination of all four to make mocha-licious bath bombs). You could also go with something classic, like a spa-like eucalyptus and lavender mix or a straight-up sugary hit of vanilla extract. The possibilities are truly endless. 

5. Choose your bath bombs’ color. Feel free to mix up different hues, but stick to 4 to 6 drops of food coloring total, or else you’ll risk muddying the bath waters.

When you’ve decided on a color and fragrance combination you like, add the food coloring and essential oil to the jar of wet ingredients. Put the lid on and close it tightly, then shake the jar to ensure all the ingredients mix well.

6. Slowly combine the liquid and dry ingredients. Add the contents from the jar into the bowl really slowly—like a teaspoon at a time. You don’t want your DIY bath bombs to explode prematurely. Whisk as you go, and slow down if things start to look fizzy. You should end up with a mixture that just barely clumps together, like damp sand.

7. Stuff that stuff into your silicone bath bomb molds. Do this ASAP. Press the mixture down firmly into your molds to make sure there are no air pockets. Be especially careful if your mold has an intricate design, as filling all the nooks and crannies can be tricky. 

• Pro tip: It’s important to have enough molds to make a dozen or more bath bombs at once, so err on the side of having too many. If you find yourself with leftover mix and no molds to put it into, it’ll dry out and you’ll need to start troubleshooting. You can try slowly rehydrating the mix by spritzing it with witch hazel. 

8. Let your bath bombs dry. Make sure you let the molds sit in a dry place for at least four hours, as excess moisture can result in crumbly bombs that won’t hold their shape. Molds with many details might take longer to dry, so you may just want to let them sit for a whole day to be safe. 

[Related: Rosemary is the secret to long and healthy hair. Here’s how to use it to grow luscious locks.]

9. Pop your bath bombs out of their molds. Make sure your bath bombs are dry, and carefully extract them.

10. Gift and enjoy. Throw one into the tub and enjoy the explosive fruits of your labor. Bag the rest of your DIY bath bombs in cellophane and make your friends and family love you forever.

This story has been updated. It was originally published on December 16, 2016.

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Since the dawn of the smartphone, people have been cobbling together DIY speakers to enhance their subpar sound. When I was in college, a popular solution was to stick the phone into an empty red Solo cup on the counter. It’s amazing how well that worked. But anything that feels at home in a college dorm probably isn’t classy enough for an adult with kids closer to their freshman year at college than you are.

Fear not: with just a few hours and some scrap wood, you can build a functional, attractive, and sweet-sounding DIY speaker for your phone that will leave all your old college friends impressed.

As sound waves travel through the air, fluctuations in pressure cause the air to move. When those sound waves collide with one another or the sides of a passive speaker, they can merge to amplify the sound, cancel one another out, or some combination of the two. As this happens, the sound field changes differently over frequencies, the volume, clarity, and direction of that sound change. If your amplifier is well designed, that change should be for the better.  

“We should recognize that the laws of physics apply,” Pind says. “We aren’t generating energy out of nothing—we are using smart tricks to amplify sounds.” Essentially, these passive speakers amplify certain frequencies at the expense of others. In my DIY speaker box, for instance, the high frequencies seem to receive the biggest boost, the mids drop out of the audio mix the most, and the lows stay about the same.

Far smarter people than I can do the math to design boxes that target certain frequencies, but a basic principle is that a conical or trumpet-shaped cavity will give the best results, Pind says. It should start narrow in the back where the sound is generated, then open gradually. While there are ideal angles based on the size, material, audio source, and other attributes of the speaker box, I kept it simple based on the tools I had available and recommend you do the same, at least to start. Still, this is the sort of project I’m eager to build more of, and look forward to experimenting with how different cavity shapes affect the sound.

Warning: DIY projects can be dangerous, even for the most experienced makers. Before proceeding with this or any other project on our site, ensure you have all necessary safety gear and know how to use it properly. At minimum, that may include safety glasses, a facemask, and/or ear protection. If you’re using power tools, you must know how to use them safely and correctly. If you do not, or are otherwise uncomfortable with anything described here, don’t attempt this project.

Stats

• Time: 2 to 4 hours
• Cost: $0 to $40
• Difficulty: easy

Materials

• 1 (2-foot-long) 1-by-6 board
• Wipe-on polyurethane
• (Optional) fun scrap of 4-by-4-inch fabric

Tools

• Jointer
• Planer
• Miter saw
• Table saw
• Crosscut sled
• Tape measure
• Drill press
• Forstner bits
• Router
• Straight-cut bit
• (Optional) 22.5-degree chamfer router bit
• Orbital sander
• Sanding discs (120-, 150-, 220-grit)
• Wood glue
• Clamps

How to build a passive phone amplifier

1. Select a wood pattern for the box. One of the defining aesthetic choices of a project like this is the wood you make it from. Keep a simple, clean look by using all the same kind of wood to create a monochrome piece where the grain is the eye-catching part. Or use different kinds of wood to create contrast and patterns. For my speaker, I mostly used maple, with small padauk boards in between to create stripes. Before you go out and buy wood for this project, spend some quality time with your scrap pile to see what kind of inspiration you can draw from there. All the wood I used was left over from a recent batch of cutting boards.

2. Mill your boards to size, but don’t cut them to length. This is a project where the glue joints will be very visible, so make sure they’re nice and tight by using properly milled wood.  Start on the jointer to get one flat face and square edge. Then head over to the planer to flatten the opposite face. Finally, bring the boards to the table saw to cut them all down to width, which for my box was 4 inches.

(Optional) 3. Laminate your pattern boards together. If you’re using multiple wood types, glue them together face to face in the pattern you want—this is known as laminating. In my case, I simply glued the thin padauk board to the thick maple board, using a lot of wood glue and clamps to create a nice, tight connection. This essentially gave me a new board, with one side maple and the other side padauk. If you’re not doing this, you can go straight to the next step.

When the glue is dry, trim the new board to width on the table saw. 

4. Cut the boards to length. Whether you laminated your wood or not, now’s the time to cut the boards to the appropriate lengths for your project. I wanted my box to be approximately a cube, so I cut them to 4 inches long. And because my laminated pieces were about an inch thick, I cut four of them. This way, when I glued all the boards together at the end, I wound up with a 4-inch cube.  

5. Choose the shape of your speaker’s interior cavity. Start by marking the center of each board by drawing diagonal lines from corner to corner. Where those lines intersect is the center.  

[Related: The best apps for listening to music on your phone]

Now you have to decide what kind of shape you want to cut for your speaker. The simplest design is a cylinder: just cut identically sized holes in each board. If you don’t have any angled router bits, this is the fastest and easiest approach.

The second option is to cut identical holes in the rear three boards, then chamfer the front hole. This creates a unique look and allows the sound waves to disperse a bit more widely. I wound up doing this due to the limitations of the tools I had available. 

For a design that more closely resembles what Pind recommends, use an angled router bit to create a conical hole from the back of the speaker to the front. This was my original plan, but I only had a 45-degree chamfer bit and that seemed like far too large an angle for the cavity. If I were to do this project again, I would use a 22.5-degree chamfer bit to make the holes. You’ll have to do the math to figure out exactly what size the holes in each board need to be—exact calculations will vary depending on the thickness of the wood you’re using, how many boards there are, bit angle, and the dimensions of your desired speaker cavity.

6. Cut the cavity holes in each board. Start with a Forstner bit to cut the smallest-diameter hole in each board, then use a router with the appropriate chamfer bit to create your desired flare angle, if needed.

• Warning: Don’t drill all the way through the rear board. If you do, you’ll lose a significant portion of sound out the back of the box.

7. Create a stand and speaker access for your phone. The box is designed so your phone fits into a slot on the top, with a small hole to direct the phone’s audio into the speaker cavity. It’s easier to cut these out before gluing everything together. Using a router and a straight-cut bit, cut half of the phone channel into the front of the fourth (rear) board, and the other half of the channel into the back of the third board. This channel should be about a quarter-inch wider and thicker than your phone. Then cut a small canyon from where the phone’s speaker rests down to the speaker cavity, again on both the third and fourth boards.  You’ll want this channel to be about a quarter of an inch square, at least.  

You can make a template for this, but I just freehanded the cut by taking shallow passes with a small bit, and then cleaned up the edges with chisels.

9. It’s glue-up time. This step is pretty straightforward. Smear glue on the adjoining board faces, then press them together. If you have a piece of fabric from Step 8, place it between the first and second layers, pulling it as tight and flat as you can. The wet wood glue held it in place well enough for me to flatten it easily.

Try to get the edges of the boards as aligned as you can. This will save a ton of sanding and finishing time later.

Clamp liberally. 

10. Sand to perfection, or as close as you can stand. Using a random orbital sander, move through the grits from 120 to 220. The most important thing is to clean up all of the glue mess, because that will look strange when you apply your finish. Also gently round over all of the sharp corners and edges.   

11. Apply finish. For this project, I picked an oil based, wipe-on polyurethane. I find this type of finish the easiest to apply in a controlled fashion, and I didn’t want to risk getting any poly on the fabric. Follow the instructions from the manufacturer, particularly around surface prep. Always remove any dust and debris, because that will ruin your finish.  

Once the polyurethane is dry, pull up your favorite tunes, drop the phone into place, and rock out. It’s just like those college parties, except better in every way.

The post Make your phone louder with this DIY wooden speaker appeared first on Popular Science.

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Cables, cables everywhere, and no counter space to put down my drink. If your house is anything like mine, you’ve got a rat’s nest of charging cables clustered around an outlet. We have wires for tablets, phones, watches, cameras, toys, and a bunch that I have no clue what they’re even for. I decided to take control through woodworking and build a charging station that could contain the chaos. I used some pieces of sapele that I had left over from other projects, but you can use whatever wood you have available, or pick up a piece of 1-by-6 at your local hardware store.  

The nice thing about building your own charging station is that you can customize it to exactly what you need.  My kids’ tablet cases, for example, are nearly 1 inch thick, which is far bigger than most. The boys are 7, and dropping stuff is a way of life for them, so a thick case makes sense. But many premade charging stations don’t have slots large enough to hold those massive devices. I made sure two of the slots had enough room for their oversized tablets. 

While you can absolutely use my design as a template for your own charging station, take some time to catalog your devices and customize it to fit your specific needs.  

Warning: DIY projects can be dangerous, even for the most experienced makers. Before proceeding with this or any other project on our site, ensure you have all necessary safety gear and know how to use it properly. At minimum, that may include safety glasses, a facemask, and/or ear protection. If you’re using power tools, you must know how to use them safely and correctly. If you do not, or are otherwise uncomfortable with anything described here, don’t attempt this project.

Stats

• Time: 3 to 6 hours
• Cost: $40 to $75
• Difficulty: moderate

Materials

• 1 (4-foot-long) 1-by-6 board
• 1 power adapter to fit your devices
• Fabric cable ties
• Spray-on polyurethane

Tools

• Jointer
• Planer
• Miter saw
• Table saw
• Crosscut sled
• Tape measure
• Drill press
• Forstner bits
• Orbital sander
• Sanding discs (80-, 120-, 150-grit)
• Wood glue
• Clamps
• CA (cyanoacrylate) glue
• Double-sided tape
• (Optional) brad nailer

How to build a DIY charging station 

1. Mill your boards down to size. There are some projects where you can skimp on milling your boards—box-building is never one of them. Mill all the box parts flat and square so the joints are nice and tight. We have a whole guide on how to mill your own lumber, but there are a few basic steps. First, cut your boards to rough length on your miter saw. This will make them easier to work with and reduce the amount of material you’ll need to remove during the milling process.  

Then take them over to your jointer and flatten one face and one edge. If you don’t have a jointer, you can use a flattening sled in your planer and a jointing sled on your table saw. If you don’t have a planer, you can flatten one face with a router sled or a hand plane. 

Once one face and edge are flattened and square, run the boards through your planer to flatten the opposite face, use your table saw to trim them down to final width, and grab a miter saw or crosscut sled to trim them to their final length.  

When you’re finished milling, you should have 15 boards, all about half an inch thick: 

• 2 (5-by-12-inch) for the top and bottom
• 2 (2-by-12-inch) for the long sides
• 2 (2-by-4-inch) for the front and back 
• 9 (1-by-5-inch) for the tablet and phone slots

2. Cut rabbets in the top and bottom boards. Rabbets are one of the easiest ways to join the side boards of a box to the bottom. These are just slots along the outside edges of the board, about a quarter-inch deep, that the side boards sit in. This helps align them, provides some mechanical strength, and adds surface area for glue. I cut my rabbets using a half-inch straight-cut bit in my router table, but you can also use a table saw. If you choose the latter, you can either make multiple passes with a single blade or one pass with a dado stack.  

[Related: The surprising woodworking tools you already have around the house]

The rabbets on the bottom board should be tight, but you’ll want to cut the rabbets on the cover about 1/16-inch too big to give room to lift the cover on and off as needed. If the top is too snug, it’ll get stuck and be kind of annoying to manage.

3. Cut access holes in the side boards. Before gluing anything together, create access holes for the wires to come out of the box so you can plug everything in. You can do this after assembling the box, but it’s easier before assembly. I used a ¾-inch Forstner bit to cut these.  

I cut one hole in the center of the back panel for the main power cord, and five holes in each of the side boards, spaced evenly. Modify the holes to fit the number of cords you’d like to accommodate. I don’t actually need 10 holes, but I wanted flexibility around which side the cables came out of. Plus, five per side looked nicer than three.

4. Sand all the pieces to 150-grit. Anytime you build a box, it’s a good idea to sand all the pieces before assembly. It’s hard to get into all the nooks and crannies once it’s built. I sanded this project to 150-grit with my orbital sander.  

5. Glue the side panels onto the bottom. Smear wood glue into all of the bottom-board rabbets and on the ends of the front and back boards, then place all the side boards tight into the rabbets. Use one clamp to hold the front and back together, and a few more to press all of the boards down tight into the rabbets.

As you’re gluing, make sure the boards stay vertical—if they lean in toward the middle of the box, the cover may not fit. You can use brad nails or another fastener like that to hold them in position if you’re having trouble.  

6. Cut shallow dados into the cover for the device stands. This is the step where the customization really comes into play. Plan out the position of all of your devices. As I mentioned, my kids’ tablet covers are quite thick, so I needed to create two extra-wide spaces for them.  

Mark out the positions of each stand, then cut shallow dados—⅛-inch deep or so—to avoid cutting all the way through the board. Like the rabbets in Step 2, you can cut these with a straight-cut bit in a router, or on your table saw with a single blade or a dado stack. I used my table saw and crosscut sled for this because I feel like I have better control and precision with the sled. 

7. Glue the stands into the dados. Smear wood glue into the dados and then press the stands into place. The tricky part is clamping them down, because that’s a lot of clamps in close proximity. You can do this with multiple glue-ups, putting in one or two stands at a time until they dry, then doing another few. I’m too impatient for that, so I placed two scrap boards over the top of all the stands, then clamped those boards down. This allowed me to create even clamping pressure across them all.  

You can also screw the stands down from the bottom of the cover if you’re having trouble clamping. I avoided screws because I didn’t want to look at them or fill the holes, and I was somewhat concerned about such small boards splitting.

8. Fill in any holes and gaps. I’m not a good enough woodworker to have every board fit perfectly, so I need to fill in some gaps on most of my projects. You can use regular wood filler for this, but you can make your own by mixing wood glue and sawdust from your project. This matches the color of your wood pretty well, but the drawback is that the glue stains the surface of the wood, requiring a bit more sanding than wood filler.

9. Sand one more time. After assembly, there’s inevitably some glue squeeze-out or rough corners that need to be smoothed over, as well as cleaning up any wood filler mess from Step 8.  Give the entire box one more light sanding by hand with 150-grit paper to create a nice surface for the finish, and to clean up any ugly spots.

10. Apply the finish(es) of your choice. Because I love the look of natural sapele, I didn’t apply a stain of any kind to this project. I just used spray-on shellac on the box and cover, sanding between coats, and then rubbed down the final with a brown paper bag to get a perfect finish.

11. Install the power adapter and cord management inside the box. If you’re feeling up to it, you can build a small box inside the larger box to contain the power adapter, but I don’t think that’s necessary. I used double-sided tape to position the charging ports near the back of the box, making sure that the power cord could fit out the rear hole. I also used Velcro cable ties to attach my kids’ camera battery charger to the top so it’s easier for them to access.

12. Plug in and control all the cables. All that’s left is to put all your cables inside and plug them into the power adapter. Use fabric cable ties or twist ties to wrap them up to keep everything organized. Make sure to leave enough of a tail on each one that they’ll be able to reach the device you’re trying to charge—6 to 8 inches did the trick for me. Then just find the right place in your house to put it, plug the power bank in, and start charging devices. No more having to stare at a winding maze of cables on the counter. 

The post Clean up your cable clutter with this DIY charging station appeared first on Popular Science.

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But before you start, there are a few things you should keep in mind before you craft homemade hand sanitizer. First, it’s crucial that you understand that proper hand washing will always be better than simply rubbing your digits with hand sanitizer. Using the right amount of alcohol-based disinfectant (3 milliliters) for 25 to 30 seconds is fine in a pinch, but soap, water, and a good scrub are the absolute best way to protect yourself against contagious diseases.

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Knowing how to make hand sanitizer is useful if you ever find yourself in the middle of a health emergency like the COVID-19 pandemic. But these and other DIY recipes are only for extreme cases when hand washing is not an option and supplies are low. Professionals use these formulations in underserviced healthcare settings, and if at some point hand sanitizer is not available at local stores, you can use them too.

Lastly, your homemade hand sanitizer won’t last forever. The main active ingredient in the recipes below is isopropyl alcohol, a volatile compound that will evaporate over time and compromise the effectiveness of your hand sanitizer. When alcohol concentration drops below 60%, your hand sanitizer won’t be able to kill COVID-19 or influenza, for example. The shelf life of store-bought hand sanitizers can vary—the industry standard is three years, but it can go up to five. How long your DIY hand sanitizer lasts will depend on the type and size of the container you use and how often you open it, along with room temperature and humidity. Unfortunately, all of these factors make it hard to predict exactly how long your hand sanitizer will be good for, so proceed with caution. 

The WHO has a comprehensive guide on how to make hand sanitizer—the only problem is that if you follow their instructions, you’ll end up with a lot of it. Like, exactly 2.6 gallons of it. If you want to make enough to last you, your family, and all your friends through a zombie apocalypse, you definitely can. But if you want to keep things on a smaller scale, we’ve adapted the measurements for you.

5. Sanitize your spray bottles and pour in your hand sanitizer. Spray some of your leftover alcohol into your bottles and let them sit until the alcohol has evaporated. Then pour in your sanitizer.

6. Label your bottles. Hand sanitizers pose a real risk of involuntary alcohol poisoning, especially among children, who were largely affected by it during the first months of the COVID-19 pandemic. You don’t want anyone to accidentally ingest your newly made hand sanitizer. Take the time to label your bottles with their contents and the date, and keep them away from unsupervised kids.

6. Label your containers. Hand sanitizers pose a real risk of involuntary alcohol poisoning, especially among children, who were largely affected by it during the first months of the COVID-19 pandemic. You don’t want anyone to accidentally ingest your newly made hand sanitizer. Take the time to label your bottles with their contents and the date, and keep them away from unsupervised kids.

The post How to make hand sanitizer appeared first on Popular Science.

Articles may contain affiliate links which enable us to share in the revenue of any purchases made.

The word “bomb” is not usually associated with positive things. Except in this case, where making seed bombs could help the ecological restoration of your neighborhood. 

Instructions

1. Mix the clay and potting mix. In the bowl, pour the clay and potting mix in a 2:1 ratio. 

The powdered clay acts as a binder and protects the seeds from direct sunlight, insects, and birds. We used green calcium bentonite clay (which doubles as a face mask), but you can use any kind you find at your local store or have at home. If you want seed bombs that look more natural and blend into the soil, you can use red clay powder.

3. Add the seeds. Pour in your seeds in a ratio of 3:1 in relation to the clay mix and combine with your hands or a mixing spoon. You may change this proportion depending on how dense you want plants to grow, but 3:1 is ideal to work in enough seeds.

• Pro tip: You can put multiple types of seeds into your bombs, but be careful how you mix and match: sun-loving plants will thrive in a spot where a shade-loving one will die, while fast-growing greenery might out-perform and suffocate another. Only combine seeds with similar qualities or habitat preferences, or plants that are known to grow well together.

4. Knead and roll the mix into small balls. Use the palms of your hands to shape your bombs. Keep them around half an inch (approximately one centimeter) in diameter. As you finish each one, place them on a tray with enough room between them so they’re not touching—once they dry, it’ll be difficult to break them apart. 

• Pro tip: As you shape your bombs, your clay mix might start drying, making it hard to work with. Keep a bowl of water at hand and add it to the mix in small amounts to bring the desired texture back.

5. Let the seed bombs dry and harden. Leave your tray of seed bombs to rest for a couple of days until they’re fully dry and hard. If you want to speed up the process, place them in direct sunlight, and if you’re leaving them outside, make sure they’re covered in case it rains.

6. Start bombing. Once all of your seed bombs are dry, you can plant them in indoor or outdoor pots, your yard, or in neglected patches of soil you’re allowed to access. You can push them slightly into the soil, leaving the tops uncovered in a sunny spot, but if you prefer to toss them like true bombs, soak them in water for 5 to 10 minutes before bombardment. 

Finding seeds native to your area is easy. You can follow our guide and collect seeds from the plants around you, or you can get them at your local hardware store or nursery. To know what to get, check out the National Wildlife Federation’s Native Plant Finder, which will show you a list of plants and shrubs local to your specific zip code.  

The post Make your own seed bombs to garden on the go appeared first on Popular Science.

Articles may contain affiliate links which enable us to share in the revenue of any purchases made.

If the thought of friends, family, and coworkers admiring your custom laptop stand isn’t enough to get you picking out wood, let’s circle back to those benefits. By elevating your computer, you raise the screen, which can help reduce eye and neck strain while you’re working. Ideally, the top of your display should be at or just below eye level, so you’re looking down slightly while using it, according to the US Occupational Safety and Health Administration. Much better than craning your neck up or down to see what you’re doing.  

A good laptop stand will also help your computer stay cool. The central processing unit (CPU), memory, and WiFi card are typically the three biggest heat producers in a laptop, says Gregor Angus Berkowitz, a computer engineer and managing partner at GBA, a technical management consultancy in California. This heat comes from the electrical resistance in those units as they consume power to perform their processing functions.  

“It’s kind of a runaway scenario where as they get hotter they become more inefficient and use more power and battery,” Berkowitz says. “If you can keep your CPU and memory cooler, it uses less power.”

Although it’s difficult to damage your computer these days by letting it overheat, your laptop’s internal temperature measurement devices will throttle the CPU and eventually shut down the device before anything catastrophic happens, Berkowitz explains. Still, a hot computer will make your life harder.

The laptop stand I designed has a rail-mounted approach, and includes holes in its side panels to ensure that air can move beneath the laptop from any direction to dissipate heat. It’s also easy to make from scrap wood, and you can modify the design to match any wood you have on hand. I didn’t actually design anything up front—I just stared at the boards I wanted to use until the final vision came to me. I’ll save you that trouble though, and you can just copy mine.

Warning: DIY projects can be dangerous, even for the most experienced makers. Before proceeding with this or any other project on our site, ensure you have all necessary safety gear and know how to use it properly. At minimum, that may include safety glasses, a face mask, and/or ear protection. If you’re using power tools, you must know how to use them safely and correctly. If you do not, or are otherwise uncomfortable with anything described here, don’t attempt this project.

How to build a wooden laptop stand

Stats

• Time: 2 to 4 hours
• Material cost: $5 to $20
• Difficulty: moderate

Materials

• 1 (2- to 3-foot-long) piece of 1-by-6 board
• 5 (1- to 2-inch wide) boards 12 to 13 inches long
• Wood glue

Tools

• Table saw
• Crosscut sled
• Jointer
• Planer
• Tape measure
• Angle finder
• Marking gauge
• Orbital sander
• Router
• Sanding discs (120-, 150-, and 220-grit)
• Clamps
• Drill press (or drill)
• Roundover bit
• (Optional) card scraper

Instructions

1. Choose the dimensions and angle for your laptop stand. These measurements should be based on a few factors. The first is the size of the bottom of your laptop. The stand should be an inch or two narrower than your laptop, left to right, and an inch or so larger than it, front to back. You’ll also want to consider whether it will be dedicated to one laptop, or if multiple people might use it. I made mine 13 inches deep instead of the 11.5 it actually needed to be, for example, so the family member who requested it could keep using it if they got a larger computer in the future.

The second consideration is the height of the stand. Based on the idea that the top of the screen should be at or just below eye level when you’re sitting at your desk, calculate the height needed to raise your laptop that tall. I designed my stand to be about 5 inches tall in the back, which raises the top of the monitor about 15 inches above the desk top.

• Pro tip: Even if you don’t follow my design, Berkowitz cautions that DIY laptop stands should be fairly skeletal, leaving as much of the computer exposed as possible. Placing the laptop on a solid sheet of plywood, for instance, would be adding insulation below, preventing effective heat dissipation.

2. Mill your boards to their final dimensions. This is a project where well-milled boards are important, because there are some precise sizes and joinery involved. I wrote a guide on how to mill wood at home if you need more details, but the steps are pretty straightforward. First, use a jointer to flatten one face and edge of each board so they are at a perfect right angle to one another. Next, run the wood through the planer to its final thickness, in this case around half an inch. Then cut them to their final width on your table saw. If you don’t have a jointer, you can flatten the faces of the boards with a hand plane, or a jointer sled in your planer, and square the edge on your table saw with the help of a level. 

When you’re done milling, you should have seven boards, all about half an inch thick. Adjust these dimensions as needed to fit your computer: 

• 2 (12-by-5-inch) boards for the two side panels
• 4 (12-by-1-inch) pieces for the top and rear braces and the legs
• 1 (12-by-½-inch) piece for the front brace (the computer stop)

3. Cut the angle for the top of the stand. I didn’t precisely measure my angle, but I decided to settle between 15 and 20 degrees after looking at some pictures and doing some testing with my laptop. To find the right slope, I put my laptop down on the desk, then raised the back up with some scrap boards until I found a comfortable typing angle. I measured that with my angle gauge and transferred that slope to the side panels.

To cut the angle easily, and to make sure both were exactly the same, I used a tapering jig. You can buy a fancy one, but it’s easy enough to build your own simple jig with some leftover plywood. 

[Related: The surprising woodworking tools you already have around the house]

Mark the line of your angle on the side panels, then position that line along the edge of the tapering jig. Run both boards through your table saw one at a time, and you’ll end up with perfectly matched angles for the laptop to sit on.  

4. Plan to cut rabbets into the side panels to hold the legs, braces, and computer stop. Rabbets are slots cut into the edges of boards to hold wood together more securely than butting them together. Because one board is inset into another, this kind of joint has both mechanical strength and increased surface area for glue to adhere to.

The easiest way to cut rabbets consistently is with a table saw and a crosscut sled. Measure and mark the positions and depths of each rabbet carefully. I use my wheel marking gauge for this because it’s the most accurate and consistent, but you can use a sharp pencil as well.

Each side panel should have five rabbets, and it may help if you imagine the boards standing on edge, as they will in the final project:

• 2 on the bottom edge to hold the leg pieces
• 1 at the front of the top edge (the lowest part of the angle) to hold the computer stop
• 1 at the back of the top edge to hold the top brace
• 1 in the center of the back edge to hold the rear brace

While the rabbets for the top and rear braces should be as deep as those pieces are thick—so they fit within the original shape of each side panel—the rabbets for the computer stop and legs should be about half the width of those pieces. This means they’ll sit a quarter inch or so higher than the edge of the side panels. Check the photo above if you need a visual guide.

• Note: You may want to test a few board thicknesses for the computer stop—it should rise above the side panel enough that the front of the laptop catches on it, which will vary based on the model you have. 

5. Cut the rabbets. To ensure that the cuts remained consistent across both side boards, I taped the two together with painter’s tape, keeping the edges perfectly flush, and cut them at the same time. Use a flat grind blade on your table saw if you have one, and use multiple passes to cut out each rabbet.

6. Drill ventilation holes in the side boards. When most laptops get too hot, internal fans kick on to circulate the air and move the heat away from delicate electrical components and out the back or bottom of the computer. Some laptops have passive cooling devices like heat pipes—small pipes filled with water or another coolant under a slight vacuum—that carry energy to a fan or radiator at the back of the computer. Whatever the case, if your stand simply traps that heat underneath the device, you’re not doing it any favors.

In order to keep the air flowing beneath my laptop stand, I added openings in the side panels. The easiest way to do this is to drill some holes with a 1.5- to 2-inch Forstner bit, or route out some slots. I decided to get fancy with mine, however, and drilled a series of holes, decreasing in size from 2 inches down to half an inch. These approximately follow the angle of the taper, creating a cool effect that didn’t take a ton of time… OK, that’s a lie—it took over an hour, between planning exactly which bits I wanted to use, how far apart to space the holes, and then drilling. Not to mention the increased sanding time. But I think the end result was worth it.

7. Round over all the exposed corners. This step takes some planning. You’ll want to round over all the outside edges of all the pieces, but not the edges that will be inside a rabbet. Otherwise you’ll get an awkward gap in the corners of the rabbets.

[Related: A beginner’s guide to Shapr3D]

Mark the edges you want to round over, as well as the ones you don’t, and try not to talk yourself into adding more roundovers in the heat of the moment when the router is in your hand. I did a few too many, and while the stand is structurally fine, the little gaps just mock me every time I look at them.

Use a router and whatever size roundover bit you have that makes sense with the aesthetic you’re going for. A router table is even better for this, if you have access to one.  

8. Sand. Sanding small projects like this gets tricky once they’re assembled, especially the interior parts. That’s why it’s a good practice to sand all of your pieces before assembly, even if you know you’ll have to do a bit more sanding later to clean up the seams. I’m lucky enough to have access to a drum sander at my local makerspace, so I used 120-grit sandpaper in that and finished this step in no time, with no hand cramping. Those of you without access to a drum sander, pick up that orbital sander and get cracking.

Ultimately, I decided to assemble the stand in two stages. The first stage was to get the three support boards glued into place, and then I would attach the legs once those were dry. I glued and clamped the rear brace first, using the computer stop as a reference to keep the front from folding in. Then I glued the top brace and computer stop into place, and adjusted everything so the diagonals from corner to corner of the stand were all the same length—that’s the best way to know that a box is actually square.

Once the supports were dry, I glued and clamped the legs in place.

I’m sure there’s a jig you can build to make this clamping process easier if you’re making a lot of laptop stands, but when the glue dried, I was only a sixteenth-inch off corner to corner, which is well within tolerances for this project.  

10. Clean up any glue squeeze-out or residue. No matter how diligent you are with cleaning up glue while it’s wet, there will probably be some stains left over. Clean those up in whatever way works best for you. Sandpaper is the most accessible, but a chisel can be useful to get into those hard-to-reach nooks and crannies. I’m also partial to using a card scraper, though that takes quite a bit of practice to learn to use well—I’m still not great with one.

11. Apply your favorite finish. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions on the bottle. I like spray-on polyurethane or shellac for a project like this, because it’s fast, easy, and the spray can get into those hard-to-reach areas better than brushes typically can. If you use a spray-on finish, be careful not to linger in one place—this will help you avoid getting runs or drips that you have to sand off. For a perfectly smooth finish, rub the final coat down with a piece of brown paper bag.  

Once the finish is shined up to your liking, you’re done. Plop it down on your desk, elevate that laptop, and listen to the far quieter hum of a laptop fan that isn’t constantly on the verge of overheating. Your ears will thank you, your patience will thank you as you avoid annoying computer slowdowns, and your newly comfortable computer components will thank you too.

The post This DIY laptop stand will help keep your computer cool appeared first on Popular Science.

Articles may contain affiliate links which enable us to share in the revenue of any purchases made.

One of the perks of living in a semi-rural area is the availability of fresh eggs. At least four people I know have hens roaming their yards, so my wife and I get all the eggs we can use, and then some. They end up in a wooden egg holder that sits right out on the counter.

That’s right, freshly-laid eggs don’t have to be refrigerated and can be kept at room temperature for weeks. Indeed, in many places around the world, eggs typically aren’t refrigerated at all. In the US, though, both the Federal Drug Administration and the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention recommend always refrigerating eggs. However, that’s not directly because of the eggs themselves—it’s to prevent bacterial illnesses, specifically salmonella.

Freshly laid eggs have a natural defense against bacteria: a protective protein coating called the cuticle, or “bloom,” says Jacob R. Tuell, assistant professor of animal science and food science at Northwest Missouri State University. The bloom seals up those pores, preventing bacteria from sneaking inside. Research has shown that the cuticle is effective at keeping salmonella at bay for about three to four days after laying, he explains. After that, its effectiveness begins to deteriorate. In the US, commercially produced eggs are washed to eliminate any possible salmonella, but that washing process also removes the protective bloom. This, in turn, speeds up the spoiling process and necessitates refrigeration. Elsewhere, eggs often aren’t washed before being sold, so the bloom remains in place, sealing out any bacteria. In short: if you bought your eggs at a store, are unsure how fresh they are, or don’t know if they’ve been washed, put them in the fridge.

However, flocks raised in US backyards don’t have the same washing requirements, Trager says. “If you keep the coop clean and have good bedding, there’s really no reason to refrigerate or wash the eggs.” As long as the bloom remains intact, eggs can last for weeks at room temperature without spoiling, he explains.

And of course, there’s no reason you can’t store fresh eggs in the refrigerator if that makes you more comfortable, washed or unwashed. Once they go in, though, they have to stay there. However, Trager cautions against storing washed eggs on a wooden tray. Wood is too porous to be properly sterilized and may transfer contaminants through the pores of the bloom-less eggs, he explains. So if you’re planning to make this wooden egg tray, only use it for fresh, unwashed eggs.

Warning: DIY projects can be dangerous, even for the most experienced makers. Before proceeding with this or any other project on our site, ensure you have all necessary safety gear and know how to use it properly. At minimum, that may include safety glasses, a face mask, and/or ear protection. If you’re using power tools, you must know how to use them safely and correctly. If you do not, or are otherwise uncomfortable with anything described here, don’t attempt this project.

How to build a wooden egg holder

Stats

• Time: 1 to 2 hours
• Material cost: $5 to $20
• Difficulty: easy

Materials

• A 2-foot-long, 1-by-4-inch board (any kind of wood you like)
• Wood glue
• (Optional) ¼-inch dowel

Tools

• Miter saw
• Table saw
• Jointer
• Planer
• Speed square
• Tape measure
• Orbital sander
• Sanding discs (120-, 150-, and 220-grit)
• Drill press (or drill)
• Clamps
• ⅛-inch drill bit
• 1 ¼-inch Forstner bit
• (Optional) router
• (Optional) chamfer router bit
• (Optional) ¼-inch drill bit
• (Optional) chisel

Instructions

1. Mill your lumber to size. This is one of those projects where having flat, square boards will make your life easier. We have a comprehensive guide to milling lumber, but it’s a straightforward process. Start by cutting the pieces of the egg holder to rough length on your miter saw: one board of 13 inches and two of about 5 inches each. Then run them over your jointer to flatten one face, and again to flatten and square one edge. 

Next, take them to your planer to flatten the remaining face, and trim them down to final width and length on your table saw. When you’re done, you should have three boards, all between ½ and ¾ inches thick: 

• 1 (12½-by-4-inch) board
• 2 (5–by-4-inch) boards

If you purchased pre-milled, square wood, you may be able to skip this step. But double-check that everything actually is flat and square.

2. Measure and mark the egg hole locations on the longest board. Before measuring the centers of the 12 holes on this board, use a square to draw a line across what will be the top of your egg holder, parallel to the end of the board and a quarter-inch in. This represents the depth of the dado where this piece of wood will sit inside the two shorter boards—we’ll worry about cutting that slot in Step 6. The distance between those two lines should be exactly 12 inches.  

Using your square and a tape measure or ruler, draw lines 1 inch, 3 inches, and 5 inches from those dado lines, moving toward the center of the board. Then make two marks on each of these new lines, 1 inch in from the long edges of the board. Those 12 intersections are where the centers of the egg holes belong.

3. Drill pilot holes in the board. Anytime you use a Forstner bit to drill all the way through a board, start with some pilot holes. Forstner bits are known to blow out or chip wood as they exit, so the best practice is to drill halfway through from the top, then turn the board over and drill the rest from the bottom to prevent tear-out. The easiest way to line those two cuts up is with a pilot hole.

If you have a drill press, drill the 12 small holes with that, using a ⅛-inch bit, or whatever size in that range you have. If you use a hand drill, make sure it’s straight up and down. You can use a speed square as a visual reference, or you can make a quick drill guide to keep the hole perpendicular to the face. If the drill bit wanders or leans, the two Forstner holes may not line up properly, and you’ll have to do a lot of sanding to fix it. No one wants to do any more sanding than they need to.

4. Drill the full holes. Change the ⅛-inch bit out for the 1 ¼-inch Forstner bit. Again, a drill press is best for this cut, but a handheld drill can do the job if you’re careful and use a jig for alignment. Center the bit in a pilot hole, and start to drill. Stop when you get just past halfway. Drill all the holes halfway through on one face of the board, then flip it over and drill from the other side.

5. (Optional) Chamfer the edges of the holes. To help the eggs sit better and reduce the chances that they’ll crack on sharp edges, chamfer the top edges of each hole. The easiest way to do this is with a router and a chamfering bit. I used a router table to make this cut, but if you don’t have access to one, you can use a palm router. Make sure to clamp your board securely to the work bench if you do. 

• Note: If you don’t chamfer the hole edges, at least thoroughly round them over with sandpaper.

6. Cut dado slots into the legs. There are many ways to cut dado slots. My preferred method, and the one accessible to most people, is on the table saw with a crosscut sled. If you have a flat-cut table saw blade, like one that comes with a dado stack, use that, but it’s fine if you just have a normal blade. You can use a full dado stack to make this cut faster, but I wasn’t comfortable using mine on such a small board so I made multiple passes with a single blade.

[Related: How to refinish a scratched wooden cutting board]

Mark a line ¾ of an inch from the bottom of the leg, then make another line above it so the distance between the two is the thickness of the tray board. Set the height of your blade to a quarter-inch, and start removing the material between those lines by making one cut on your crosscut sled. Keep moving the leg over about ⅛-inch to make additional cuts. Repeat this as many times as you need to in order for the tray to fit in the slot. 

If you use a standard blade for this, you’ll probably wind up with little wedges on the bottom of the slot. Trim those flat with a chisel.

7. (Optional) Cut curves on the corners of the legs. This is purely for aesthetics, but I love the way it looks. Draw a small arc at each corner of every leg board. You can use any cylindrical object to trace these—I used a spray paint bottle cap. Then remove the wood outside of that arc. I cut mine first with a band saw, then rounded it over with a sander, but a jig saw or coping saw will work as well. You can even just jump right to the sander, though that will take a bit longer.

8. (Optional) Add dowels for stacking. If you’re planning to make more than one tray, you may want to consider stacking them. Of course, you can place one on top of the other, but there’s always the risk that it will slide off and splatter your eggs. To give it some support, drill a ¼-inch hole in the top and bottom centers of the legs. Insert a dowel in the top of the bottom tray legs, and then you can slide the top tray onto that dowel, locking it into place. Round over the ends of the dowels with 120-grit sandpaper to make them easier to slide in and out. 

9. Sand everything to 220-grit. You’ve heard me say it before—sanding is the difference between a good product and a great product. Sand all of the pieces with an orbital sander, working through the grits—start with 120 and finish with 220. The hard part of this build is sanding the holes and chamfers, if you made them. You can use your fingers to get inside everything, or you can use a piece of sandpaper wrapped around a dowel. Of course, if you have a spindle sander, use that and save your fingers.

• Pro tip: If you use a dowel, you can open the chuck of your power drill all the way, stick the dowel in, and tighten it up. Then you can wrap the dowel in sandpaper and use the drill to spin it quickly inside the holes.

Before you finish sanding, slightly round over all sharp edges with 220-grit sandpaper to keep them from splintering or breaking later. 

The post Go ahead, leave your fresh eggs on the counter in this handmade wooden tray appeared first on Popular Science.

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Believe it or not, you don’t need a refrigerator to keep food cold. Just gather some ceramic pots, sand, and water, and you’ve got a portable, non-electric DIY mini-fridge with a time-tested design. After all, people were preserving food for thousands of years before you had to keep that leftover takeout from stinking up your college dorm.

How to make a refrigerator without electricity

3. Put the smaller pot inside the larger one.

4. Fill the space between the pots with sand.

5. Pour water into the sand.

How this DIY refrigerator works

As water evaporates through the clay, it releases energy into the air and cools the space inside the pot. It’s like splashing water on your face on a hot day; the water evaporates off your skin, cooling it in the process. Refrigerator coolant actually works in a similar way, using evaporation to draw heat out of the fridge itself. That’s why the back of your Frigidaire is so warm.

These pot-in-pot coolers are useful in places that don’t have power grids, but they’re also great for people who don’t have fridges, need more space, or want to cut their energy bills. On that last point: they’re also much better for the environment since they don’t require any sort of fuel, much less oil or gas.

[Related: The scientifically best way to pack a cooler]

It’s best to keep zeer pots in the shade, since the sun will warm them up, but you can also put them in a breezy area—wind makes the water evaporate faster, which cools the food more quickly. They’re most effective in arid climates, because water evaporates more when there’s less of it in the air. So, these pots will likely work better in Arizona than Florida.

They work well in Sudan, where Practical Action has introduced the zeer pot to many in need of refrigeration. Food security is a huge problem in the Northeast African country, and the DIY refrigerators can make food last 10 times longer, Lomas says.

“Someone told me they once made ice out of a zeer pot,” he says, laughing. He didn’t believe the guy, but he does find the pots incredibly effective. According to Practical Action’s website, one woman, Hawa Abbas, used to watch half her okra, tomato, and carrot crops spoil. After discovering zeer pots, that changed.

The post The coolest way to keep food cold without electricity appeared first on Popular Science.

Articles may contain affiliate links which enable us to share in the revenue of any purchases made.

One of the most important skills in woodworking is learning to properly mill the wood. If you don’t have milling tools or are working with boards that are extra wide, you don’t have to give up, and you definitely don’t have to cut a beautiful slab down to a more manageable size. Instead, build a router sled that will let you flatten pretty much anything.

Various companies sell metal versions of these tools, and they may be a good investment if you do a lot of flattening. However, it’s pretty easy to build a DIY router sled, allowing you to customize it exactly to your needs and space.

Warning: DIY projects can be dangerous, even for the most experienced makers. Before proceeding with this or any other project on our site, ensure you have all necessary safety gear and know how to use it properly. At minimum, that may include safety glasses, a facemask, and/or ear protection. If you’re using power tools, you must know how to use them safely and correctly. If you do not, or are otherwise uncomfortable with anything described here, don’t attempt this project.

Stats

• Time: 1 to 2 hours
• Material cost: $50 to $100
• Difficulty: easy

Materials

• 1 (8-foot) 1-by-6-inch board (or plywood or scrap wood) 
• 2 pieces of 36-inch-long angle iron
• Shims
• Hot glue

Tools

• Table saw
• Jointer
• Planer
• Drill
• Countersink bit
• Clamps
• Glue gun
• Slab flattening bit

How to build a DIY router sled

1. Decide how big you need your router sled to be. This requires some prognostication on your part about what size projects you’re going to build in the future. For end tables, you can probably get away with a sled that’s 2 feet square. For coffee tables, you’ll need something more in the 3-by-4-foot range. And if you’re looking to try your hand at dining tables, you’ll probably need to go 8-by-4 (a full sheet of plywood) for the base.

The most challenging dimension to determine is the height of the rails, which establishes what thickness of board you can flatten. Your rails need to be taller than the board you’re milling, but you can’t make them too tall or your router bit won’t reach low enough to actually touch the top of the slab.

The largest board I’ve flattened has been 4 feet by about 16 inches. I made my rails 5 feet long and 2 inches tall, with a sled that is 36 inches long. I decided on this depth because I’ve never worked with anything deeper than that, and my router can plunge a little over an inch. If I ever need to work with a thicker or thinner slab, I add plywood shims under the rails or board being flattened to raise or lower their relative positions, then secure them with either hot glue. (More details on leveling and shimming in the “Setting up and using the router sled” section below.)

• Pro tip: For more flexibility, I don’t permanently attach my rails to a base, either. I clamp them to my workbench so I can adjust to the width of the board.

2. Mill the lumber so it’s flat and square. Working with flat, square boards is much easier and more accurate than having to deal with warps, waves, and curves. For this project in particular, having straight edges and faces is crucial. Any waves or bows in the rails will transfer onto the surface of the slab that you’re flattening, which defeats the entire purpose of this setup.

If you’re making your rails out of ¾-inch plywood, which many people do, you don’t need to mill it—simply trim it to the proper width and length.

At the end of the milling process, you should have four boards, just under ¾ of an inch thick:

• 2 that are 4 feet long and 1 ¼ inches wide
• 2 that are 4 feet long and 2 ½ inches wide

3. Glue and screw the boards into an “L” shape. To achieve this shape, stand the long edge of one 1¼-inch-wide board on the face of one 2½-inch-wide board. Align the two boards so the edge of the bottom piece is flush with the face of the top one, and glue them in place, securing them with clamps. You can also use a countersink bit and 1½-inch wood screws to hold the boards together while they dry. Repeat this step with the other two boards.

4. (Optional) Cut eight small 1-by-1-inch squares of scrap wood on your table saw or miter saw. These will add stability to your rails and keep them from warping over time. The best way to do this is with a crosscut sled on your table saw, which is my preferred method. You can also use a miter saw or hand saw if you’re more comfortable with those. Then glue and screw four of these along the length of each rail to hold the 90-degree orientation of the “L.” With that, the rails are done.

5. Cut two spacer blocks that are slightly wider than the base of your router. These spacers can be made from whatever wood you have lying around, and don’t need to be perfectly flat or square. They should all be the same width, though, about ⅛-inch wider than the base of your router. Cut these out on your table saw, miter saw, or with a hand saw—whichever tool is handiest for you.  

• Note: If you have more than one router, use your most powerful one in the sled. I’ve tried flattening with my 1.25-horsepower DeWalt palm router, and while it can technically do the job, it struggles. My fixed-base Craftsman is more powerful and much more suited to the task, even if it’s not quite as easy to use and adjust.

6. Clamp the spacer blocks between the pieces of angle iron. This will be the actual sled your router sits on. Put one spacer block at each end of the metal bars, resting on the inside lip. Then clamp them in place. I clamp rather than using screws or glue for a couple reasons. First, I have more than one router, which means I might decide to use a different one. To swap, all I need to do is cut a new spacer and put it in place, rather than having to build a new sled. Second, clamps allow me to store the sled disassembled, which takes up a lot less space in my teeny, tiny basement shop.  

Setting up and using the router sled

1. Position the rails. Set your rails on your workbench, spaced far enough apart so the board you’re flattening can fit between them with a couple of inches to spare on either side. Depending on your setup, you can either clamp these down or screw them in place.

2. Level and secure the board between them. The surface of the board should be just below the top of the rails, so the router bit can easily reach it. You also want to do your best to get that top surface approximately level with the plane formed by the top of the boards. This will reduce the amount of material that needs to be removed in order to flatten it. Shim the board to the proper alignment, then hot glue those shims—and the board—in place. If the board moves at all while you’re routing, you may not end up with a flat surface.

• Pro tip: If the board is particularly warped or tapered, try to position the board so you’ll take the least amount of material off each side. This takes some guesswork and experimentation, and it’s not absolutely critical, but I always try to save as much wood as possible.  

3. Place the angle iron sled on top of the rails. The sled should lay perpendicular to the rails and across both. Position it to the left or right of the board, then slide it back and forth along the length of the rails to double check that it doesn’t bump into anything as you go. Getting hung up on a clamp or the corner of the board while you’re routing is really annoying. Adjust as needed. 

4. Start routing. Secure your slab-flattening bit into your router, drop the router into the sled, and start routing. With the depth set to take off between a sixteenth and eighth of an inch, push the router across the board, holding it secure. Don’t allow the tool to tip forward or backward, or you’ll gouge the wood. Pull the router back to you along the sled, slide the whole apparatus over about two-thirds the width of your bit, and push the router forward again. Keep going until you reach the end of the board.

If you didn’t flatten the entire surface in one path, lower the bit between a sixteenth and eighth of an inch and repeat the process. Keep going until you’ve flattened the entire face of the board. 

Once you complete your last pass, flip the board over, secure it to your workbench, and do it all again on the other face.

The post Build your own router sled to flatten wood without buying big, expensive tools appeared first on Popular Science.

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A few years ago, I turned the refrigerator alcove in our new house into a pantry, but never got around to adding doors. I made a pair a few months later, repurposing free doors I got from a cabinetmaker who was going out of business, but they gathered dust in the basement while other projects took priority. Finally, I got a free weekend and some motivation, and decided to actually install them.    

My second challenge was that the refrigerator alcove itself isn’t square—it is off about a quarter of an inch from one side to the other. This means square doors either don’t fit or don’t look right in the non-square opening. I had to work hard to shape the doors to fit and give the illusion of being square. 

And finally, get someone to help you out. Professionals might be able to hang cabinet doors easily by themselves, but since neither you nor I are professional cabinetmakers, another pair of hands will be invaluable. 

Warning: DIY projects can be dangerous, even for the most experienced makers. Before proceeding with this or any other project on our site, ensure you have all necessary safety gear and know how to use it properly. At minimum, that may include safety glasses, a facemask, and/or ear protection. If you’re using power tools, you must know how to use them safely and correctly. If you do not, or are otherwise uncomfortable with anything described here, don’t attempt this project.

Stats

• Time: 30 to 90 minutes per door
• Material cost: $5 to $30 (not including the doors)
• Difficulty: moderate

Materials

• Cabinet hinges that fit your door
• Door handle

Tools

To hang the door

• Drill
• Drill bits
• Tape measure
• Pencil
• Shims

To trim the door

• Table saw
• Router
• Flush trim bit
• Hand plane
• Block plane
• Orbital sander
• Sanding discs
• Clamps
• Straight edge cutting guide (or a long scrap of plywood with a straight edge)
• Chisels

How to hang a cabinet or pantry door

1. Buy the proper hinges for your door. I was shocked and confused by how many different hinge styles there are. To find the one that’s right for you, pay attention to the overlay—how the door is positioned relative to the cabinet frame. Inset doors are flush with the front of the cabinet and rest fully inside the opening. Partial overlay doors sit in front of the cabinet face and cover up part of the face frame. Full overlay doors go in front of the cabinet face and cover the entire face frame. Each of these three types of doors requires its own style of hinge.

Once you’ve identified the type of door, check how the hinge attaches to the cabinet. Some screw flat to the sidewall, which is how ours work. Others wrap around the face frame of the cabinet. And finally, think about how visible you want the hinges to be and what features you need, including adjustability, opening angle, soft-closing, or self-closing.

• Note: BobVila.com has a quality guide to the different hinge types. If you’re a more visual learner, Rockler put together a good video guide. 

2. Measure and mark how much to trim the doors. If you’re lucky, your door perfectly fits the opening you have, and you can skip steps 2 and 3 entirely. If not, you’ve got some work to do. 

First, bring the door to the opening and figure out exactly where to trim. Hold the door in place, using shims or another person to help, and use a pencil to mark the material to remove. You may need to slim down an entire edge, or knock off a few inches leading into a corner, particularly if either the door or the opening aren’t perfectly square.

How much and where to trim depends on what kind of overlay your door has. If you have a partial overlay and adjustable hinges, you’ll have quite a bit of wiggle room because you won’t be constrained to the size of the opening. An eighth- or even a quarter-inch oversized probably doesn’t matter, though you will have to keep in mind how the door lines up with other cabinets nearby. 

[Related: The surprising woodworking tools you already have around the house]

Full overlay doors have to be a bit more precise, because they’re supposed to completely cover the face frame, without hanging over. However, chances are that no one will notice if the doors overhang a 16th or even an eighth of an inch.  

Inset doors require the most precision, because they fit inside the cabinet opening. Generally speaking, they need about an eighth of an inch gap on all sides to open and close, as well as to fit the hinges. But make sure you read the manufacturer’s instructions for your hinges, as some require different spacings.

3. Trim the doors down to size. There are many ways to trim cabinet doors, depending on what tools you have, how much needs to be shaved off, and where. To remove an eighth-inch or more from an entire edge of the board, your best bet is a table saw. Set the fence to the final width and run the board through. Depending on the style of the door, you may want to trim along both parallel edges so the door’s proportions remain the same.

If you need to remove a decent amount of material from part of the edge, as I did, you can use a router with a straightedge and a flush trim bit. I took a strip of plywood with one flat edge, and clamped it along the shallow angle I needed. Then I used the flush trim bit to remove the material.

If you have a small amount of material to remove, turn to a block plane or hand plane. Make sure the blade is properly sharpened and set up so you don’t tear the wood. Keeping the edge you’re working facing up, clamp the door in a vice or get someone to hold it in place. Then run the plane along it, keeping the tool perpendicular to the face of the door. You should get long, curled shavings of wood.  

For those who don’t have a hand plane or who aren’t comfortable using one, use an orbital sander with 60-grit paper.

4. Install the hinges on the door. Different hinges connect to the door and the cabinet with different methods, so it’s important that you read the instructions included with your hardware. Some hinges screw directly to the surface of the door, while others require a mortise cut into the door to sit in. There are jigs available for different kinds of hardware to make this setup easier. If you’re only hanging one or two doors, though, a jig might not be worth the investment—some of them can be expensive. 

Regardless of how your hinges work, pre-drill any screw holes. The last thing you want is your door to split during the final installation.  

• Note: Some hinges may say to attach them to the cabinet first, rather than the door. Absolutely follow the manufacturer’s instructions, not my recommendations here.  

5. Measure and mark where the hinges attach to the cabinet. If possible, hold the door in place to measure where the hinges attach to the cabinet. Shims can help with this, particularly on inset doors. Then mark the center of the hinge on the cabinet and take the door down. If you have extra hardware, center a spare on that line, and mark where the screw holes go. You can also make a drilling template out of a scrap of plywood by marking a “center” line as reference, and use a hinge to position and drill screw holes in relation to that line. Then bring that template to the cabinet, align the centerline to the mark on the cabinet, and drill the holes in the cabinet.  

6. Screw the hinges to the cabinet. This is one step where a helper is worth their weight in gold. Hold the door in place, most likely in the open position, and screw the hinges to the cabinet. Start with the top hinge, because that one can carry the weight of the door without flexing and ripping out of the wood—this might happen if you start with the bottom hinges.

7. Make adjustments as needed. Many hinges have hardware that allow you to make minute adjustments to perfectly line up the doors for equal spacing and straight lines. Fiddle with those as needed to get your door to fit. If those adjustments aren’t enough, you may need to further trim the door. You can use a block plane or sander to peel off small amounts while it’s hanging, but you’ll need to take the door down to remove more material. 

[Related: How to build a DIY beer flight board]

While you’re at it, ensure that any drawer slides function properly with the doors in place. My pantry drawers on one side got stuck on the door—I’d installed the slides not knowing how thick the doors would eventually be. The fix is easy: Use a chisel to carve a slide-sized channel in the back of the door so that the drawers can open and close freely.  

8. Install the door handle or pull. Installing the door pull last lets you install it exactly where you want it, after all the final adjustments have been made. Whether you position it in the middle of the door, lined up with other pulls in the room, or simply at a comfortable height to grab, you can be more accurate once the door is finished and in place.

Knobs and bars are the two most common types of door pulls. Knobs require you to drill a single hole through the door to slide a bolt through that the knob screws onto. Pulls need two bolt holes. Like hinges, there are jigs that will help make measuring the hole locations easier if you’re planning to do a lot of doors, but all you really have to do is measure from the top and closest edge of the door, and mark your hole locations.  

And that’s it. Your door is hung and ready to use. If you’re planning to paint, stain, or otherwise finish the door, take it down and get to work. But if you’re anything like me, it’ll be a few months before you get around to that. For now, just enjoy not having to look at whatever is in that cabinet anymore.

The post A simple guide to hanging cabinet doors appeared first on Popular Science.

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Sometimes the planters at your local hardware store just aren’t enough. They’re missing… something. Gravitas. Prestige. The satisfying scent of cedar, perhaps. Fear not—building your own planter box from cedar fence posts is a straightforward afternoon project, and can add a renewed sense of style to your landscape decor. 

While you can build a planter box out of pretty much any wood (pine is popular because it’s affordable), cedar is great for a few reasons. First and foremost, it’s rot-resistant, so it will stand up to the weather, dirt, and bugs for years and years, even untreated. Second, cedar fence pickets in particular are relatively inexpensive and easy to work with. Finally, cedar actively repels many types of bugs, which is why this wood is used so often in closets. While the scent won’t keep all garden pests at bay, it can deter some, including houseflies, ticks, mosquitos, termites, and certain types of ants, according to the US Department of Agriculture Agricultural Research Service. 

This particular DIY planter box is a straightforward and flexible project. The box I made is 12 inches square and 16 inches tall, but you can easily make one with a 16-by-16-inch or 24-by-24-inch footprint by modifying the dimensions below.  Larger than that, and you’ll probably need to upgrade to a long planter box design. 

Stats 

• Time: 2 to 3 hours
• Materials cost: $30 to $50
• Difficulty: moderate

Materials

• 1 box of (3.5-foot-long) ⅝-by-3.5-inch flat-top cedar fence pickets (about 13 boards)
• Wood glue
• 3/4-inch brad nails
• Scrap of ½-inch plywood approximately 8 by 16 inches, with one flat edge
• (Optional) landscape fabric

Tools

• Miter saw
• Table saw
• Crosscut sled
• Brad nailer
• Level
• Speed square
• Corner clamps
• Clamps
• Strap clamps
• Orbital sander
• Sanding discs (120-grit)
• (Optional) scissors
• (Optional) staple gun
• (Optional) jointer

How to build a cedar planter box

1. Cut the fence pickets to rough length. Before properly squaring up the wood, always cut it down to rough length first. You can use a miter saw to trim the fence posts into sections, but I did it on my table saw with a crosscut sled instead because I already had it set up. Cutting the wood into shorter lengths before milling reduces the amount of material you’ll need to remove to get flat surfaces.

3. Rough-sand all the boards. As I mentioned, I didn’t want to lose the rustic look of the fence posts. However, they were still quite rough and I was afraid that if I left them untouched, people would get splinters when planting. So I spent some quality time with my orbital sander and 120-grit paper smoothing out both faces of all of the boards. How long you sand is entirely dependent on your aesthetic preference, but I only did about a minute per face to remove any loose or jagged material. I did smooth the top miter boards and the legs a bit more than the other boards, though—they will be the ones people touch the most. 

4. Separate the boards for the four side panels. The 11-inch panel boards go with the 2.5-inch wide legs and the 10-inch boards go with the 2-inch legs. Don’t forget this, or you’ll wind up with a box with a rectangular footprint instead of a square.

[Related: Benefit your neighborhood bats with this DIY bat box]

5. Build the side panels. Using a scrap of ½-inch plywood and a speed square, you can create a basic jig to align the boards. First, lay one leg on your assembly table, with the long edge flush against the flat edge of the plywood. Align the speed square along the same plywood edge, touching the top of the leg and extending into the plywood. Then smear wood glue on the leg, leaving about a ¾-inch on the edge farthest from the plywood.  

6. Add ledges to the inside of two side panels. Before assembling the planter box, add small ledges to either both wide panels or both narrow panels. It doesn’t matter which panels get these ledges, as long as they’re equal in size. The ledges will hold the boards for the bottom of the box, so they need to be opposite each other. It’s much easier to do this before assembly, so don’t skip this step.

I used the scraps I trimmed off when cutting the legs down to width. To attach, I cut the scraps down to 9 ½ inches long, then glued and brad nailed them into position. 

• Note: I added two rows of ledges so I can adjust the depth of my planter box if needed. The first is 6 inches below the top of the panel, and the second is 9 inches below.

7. Assemble the box. This is an easy assembly, but pay attention. The most important thing to remember is that the narrow panels sit inside the wide panels. This is what makes the planter box a square—if the wide panels sit inside the narrow, you’ll wind up with a rectangle.  

To assemble, spread glue on the inside edge of the legs where you positioned the spacer board in Step 5. Then interlock all of the panels together, standing them up on a flat surface like your assembly table or table saw. This will help keep the bottoms of the legs flush with one another so the planter box doesn’t wobble.  

Once the boards are interlocked, add corner clamps to the top to hold everything square and in place. Then wrap the strap clamps around the outside of the box and tighten them. I used two straps, one about an inch from the top, and the other about an inch from the bottom of the panel boards.   

Make sure all of your planter box’s corners are square. Measure from one corner to the opposite one, and then between the other two—both diagonals should be the same length.

• Note: If you don’t have strap clamps and/or corner clamps, use regular clamps.

8. Trim the boards for the base. The exact measurements will vary somewhat depending on how thick the boards were to start and how much material you sanded off. My boards were just under 10 inches long. Two I left 3.5 inches wide, and I trimmed the third down to about 2.5 inches. The boards should fit snug, but not so tight that they can’t slide in and out.

9. Cut the miters for the top frame. This step is essentially like making a picture frame to fit over the top of the box and hide all those ugly seams. The trick is to make it slightly smaller than the inside dimensions of the box. I left about a ⅛-inch interior overhang on all four sides so I didn’t need to achieve a perfectly flush alignment, which is hard to do with non-milled wood—heck, it’s hard to do with perfectly milled wood.  

Once all four boards are cut, glue them up with a strap clamp if you have one, or regular clamps if not, again ensuring that the frame is square.

10. Glue the top frame to the box. Spread glue along the top edges of the box and align the top frame. Try to keep it square to the sides, and the interior overhang consistent. Clamp the frame into place to let the glue dry.

11. Sand away any glue mess. Chances are that you’ve got some glue squeeze-out to clean up. Use 120-grit paper in your orbital sander and/or hands to finish sanding any areas of the box that need it, particularly around the joints. Don’t worry about the inside of the box—that will be covered in dirt or pots.

12. Insert the base boards. Slide the base boards into place. I didn’t glue or nail these in since there’s no way for them to fall out. This allows me to move them in the future if I need to change the depth of the box for any reason. 

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Bats are a critical part of ecosystems worldwide and provide a number of significant benefits to humans, including pest control, pollination, and seed disbursement. Of those three, the biggest reason you might want bats around is likely their ability to hunt insects that are hunting you.

I based these bat house plans on a design published by Bat Conservation International, with a few modifications—what woodworker follows plans exactly? My bat box, for example, is two chambers instead of four, simply because of the amount of wood I had available. I also used cedar fence pickets instead of exterior plywood because they were cheaper, and decided not to put a vent on the side due to the cold climate in Massachusetts.

Warning: DIY projects can be dangerous, even for the most experienced makers. Before proceeding with this or any other project on our site, ensure you have all necessary safety gear and know how to use it properly. At minimum, that may include safety glasses, a facemask, and/or ear protection. If you’re using power tools, you must know how to use them safely and correctly. If you do not, or are otherwise uncomfortable with anything described here, don’t attempt this project.

Stats

• Time: 4 to 6 hours
• Material cost: $40 to $60
• Difficulty: moderate

Materials

• 1 box of (3.5-foot-long) ⅝-by-3.5-inch flat-top cedar fence pickets (about 13 boards)
• Wood glue
• 1-inch brad nails
• Exterior painter’s caulk
• Black exterior spray paint

Tools

• Miter saw
• Table saw
• Crosscut sled
• Clamps
• Parallel clamps
• Orbital sander
• Sanding discs (60- and 120-grit)
• (Optional) jointer

How to build a bat house

1. Cut the fence pickets to length on your miter saw. Before jointing wood, always cut the boards down to rough length. This makes flattening easier, and cuts down on the amount of material you’ll need to remove from warped boards.

This bat box consists of three panels, each made from different lengths of wood. Although you can cut the middle and front panel boards exactly the same length because they will be the same size (24 by 18 inches), I did not. I was able to use my wood more efficiently by making the front and back panels from vertical 24-inch boards, and the middle one out of horizontal 18-inch planks. This worked because I could get one 18- and one 24-inch board out of each 42-inch fence picket. Here’s how my panel groupings broke down:

• Back panel: six (30-inch) boards
• Middle panel: eight (18-inch) boards
• Front panel: six (24-inch) boards

2. Joint one face and edge on each board. If you don’t have a jointer, you can skip face jointing for this project, and just edge joint on your table saw. But if you have access to a jointer, cleaning up one face will make assembly easier.  

• Note: The jointed faces of the boards should be the outside of your panels. I left the insides of my panels rough so the bats would have an easier time clinging to them, though we will add more texture later.

3. Trim all the boards to width on your table saw. I picked 3 inches to make all of the math easy, even though I wound up with a bit more waste than was strictly necessary. 

4. Glue the front and back panels together. Building panels is one of the core skills required for many woodworking projects, and a good set of parallel clamps will help immensely. Fully open your clamps and set them down side by side, about 2 inches closer together than the full width of your panels. Lay the boards across them, jointed faces down, and press the boards together by hand to make sure all the seams are tight. If they aren’t, clean them up on your jointer or table saw.

Once you’re satisfied with the layout, spread a line of glue on each touching edge of the boards, and press them together. Tighten the clamps until glue squeezes out of the seams. Then add two more clamps between and parallel to the first pair of clamps, but on top of the panel instead of below. This will give the panel a bit more stability and reduce the chance of warping.

• Pro tip: To help prevent warping even more, use cauls on each end of the panel (I skipped this step and regretted it because I got a bit of warp that I had to fix).

5. Cut the rails for the panels. This bat house has two chambers, which basically means it’s two boxes stacked together. To create those boxes, you’ll need two pairs of rails for the panels to sit on to form cavities for the bats to roost in. I crafted my rails from the scraps left over from building the panels. I had several 12-inch-long boards, so I cut eight ⅞-inch strips out of those to make the four rails.

6. Cut grooves into both sides of the 18-inch boards for the middle panel. The bats most likely to roost in a box are used to spending time in trees, says David Mizejewski, a naturalist at the nonprofit National Wildlife Federation. This means the box should be textured like a tree to give the animals something to hold on to. Shallow grooves spaced between ¼- and ½-inch apart work nicely, according to Bat Conservation International.

[Related: What bats and metal vocalists have in common]

Set the height of your table saw to between 1/16 and ⅛ inch high. Then set the fence about a quarter-inch from the blade, and run all of your middle panel boards over it, on both faces. Then move the fence another quarter inch away from the blade and run the boards again. Continue until you’ve cut grooves along both faces of all eight boards.

• Note: Older bat house plans might recommend installing wire mesh, but many conservationists now recommend against that because there’s a chance the bats will get tangled in it.

7. Square the front and back panels, then cut grooves. Once these two panels are dry according to the glue manufacturer’s instructions, trim both ends of one panel, squaring them to its edges. The easiest tool for this is a crosscut sled on your table saw. Once the ends are square, leave the panel on the sled to cut graspable grooves. Set the blade height between 1/16 and ⅛ inch, and cut grooves every quarter-inch or so. These don’t have to be precise. Just slide the panel over a bit at a time. Repeat this step with the other panel.

• Warning: This is the sort of operation where it’s easy to lose focus and hurt yourself by grabbing or moving at the wrong place or wrong time. Make sure you pull the sled all the way back so you can freely move the panel without touching the blade.

8. Assemble the first chamber. Lay the back panel down flat with the textured and grooved side facing up. Place the rails onto the face, aligned with each edge and with about 2 inches between the top of the panel and the start of each rail. This gap leaves room to hang the box. Glue the rails in place and further secure them with 1-inch brad nails.

Then glue and brad nail the 18-inch boards across the rails to form the middle panel. Clamp everything together until the glue dries.

9. Assemble the second chamber. Once the first chamber is secure and dry, build the second, gluing rails to the middle panel and securing the front panel to those with glue, clamps, and brad nails.

10. Add a roof. Glue and brad nail one final board, 18 inches long and 3 inches wide, across the top of both cavities as a roof. Rather than cutting a dedicated piece to size, however, I used some of the cutoff scraps I had, making sure to butt them as tight together as I could. 

11. Sand everything smoothish. This is one of those magical projects where sanding doesn’t matter too much. I used 60-grit sandpaper on my orbital sander to clean up any boards that were slightly out of alignment or particularly rough. Then I sanded everything with 120-grit paper. Because the bat box will be painted, hung quite high, and won’t be touched a lot (by people anyway), there was no point in going further than that.  

12. Fill in all the gaps with caulk. “Make sure that all of the seams are tight and there aren’t a lot of gaps because heat is the key thing,” says Mizejewski. “The bats really want it to stay warm in there. If the bat house is drafty, that’s going to make it less attractive.” Fill in all of those gaps between the panels and the rails with exterior-rated painter’s caulk. If you’re planning to stain your box, which you can do if you live in a warmer climate than I do in New England, you might want to use stainable wood filler instead of caulk.  

13. Paint or finish the exterior of your box. Keeping with the theme of creating a warm house, it’s important to maximize the amount of heat absorption the box gets from the sun. That means dark colors. Bat Conservation International recommends painting bat boxes black in cold climates, but if you live in a more temperate climate, a dark brown paint or stain can be enough. If you live in a particularly warm area, you may be fine leaving the natural color of your wood.  

14. Hang the box. “This is probably one of the more important things if you actually want the bat house to work,” says Mizejewski. “Mounting is what people often get wrong, and then the box does not work.” In order to move in, bats need to feel that the box is warm enough, close to water, and safe from predators.

[Related: How to get a bat out of your house]

Oddly enough, hanging bat houses on trees doesn’t work well, even though bats often roost directly in trees. It can be too shady and cool among the branches, and it’s easier for predators to climb up and into the box. Instead, it’s best to install bat boxes on the side of a building or on a pole, between 10 and 20 feet in the air. Bat Conservation International has put together a few documents for the best installation methods, whether on a pole or on the side of your house or another building.

The post Benefit your neighborhood bats with this DIY bat house appeared first on Popular Science.

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What’s better than one glass of beer? Four glasses. Beer flights are a fun way to try out a variety of flavors in manageable quantities, and if you’re a home brewer they can help you present your latest concoctions in style. They’re also an opportunity to showcase what an amazing woodworker you are—and even if you’re not, this project is simple enough that people will think you are.

At its most basic, a beer flight board is a plank of wood with some shallow holes to hold the glasses, but there are a few ways to upgrade this easy DIY project. You can use your router or table saw to create fancy edge decoration, build it from multiple kinds of wood glued together in a pretty pattern, or play with burning or inlaying a design. For mine, I used live edge boards to make the trays, which will be large enough to hold four 5-ounce glasses.

Live edge boards are sawn the full width of the tree, so the natural, wavy edges remain. They usually come with the bark attached. Keeping that edge can bring a natural feel to any project—some of my favorite tables have live edges. And although it looks elaborate, there’s nothing complicated about working with live edges.

Of course, if you don’t have a live edge board, or want a different design, you can use any kind of wood you have available, as long as it will fit the number of glasses you’re looking for.

Warning: DIY projects can be dangerous, even for the most experienced makers. Before proceeding with this or any other project on our site, ensure you have all necessary safety gear and know how to use it properly. At minimum, that may include safety glasses, a facemask, and/or ear protection. If you’re using power tools, you must know how to use them safely and correctly. If you do not, or are otherwise uncomfortable with anything described here, don’t attempt this project.

Stats

• Time: 1 to 2 hours
• Material cost: $20 to $50
• Difficulty: easy

Materials

• 1 (12- to 14-inch-long) board
• Beer tasting glasses
• Polyurethane

Tools

• Chisels
• Wire brush
• Measuring tape
• Jointer
• Planer
• Miter saw
• Table saw
• Crosscut sled
• Drill
• 2-inch Forstner bit (or whatever size fits your glasses)
• Orbital sander
• Sanding discs (80-, 120-, 150-, and 220-grit)
• (Optional) plunge router
• (Optional) pattern flush trim router bit
• (Optional) ½ -inch scrap board, approximately 4 by 14 inches

Once the bark is gone, strip off all remaining fibers to get down to bare wood. If you leave behind the strands that held the bark onto the tree, they can ruin your eventual finish. An orbital sander is the fastest way to smooth these edges, though it can remove some of the natural contour and charm of the edge if you’re not careful. A wire brush and hand sanding with 80-grit paper is a less aggressive option, though it takes longer.

2. Mill your board to size. Beer flights are meant to sit flat on a table, counter, or bar, so it’s important that you actually mill the board. The best way to mill wood is to flatten one face and edge on a jointer, then flatten the opposite face in a planer. Finally, trim the board to width on a table saw and to length with a miter saw. 

For boards with two live edges, like mine, you don’t need to bother with the edges—leave them natural.

If you don’t have a jointer and planer, you can flatten with your sander or a hand plane, or buy wood that is pre-flattened.

To comfortably fit four glasses, I milled my boards to 14 inches long, about 4 inches wide, and ¾-inch thick.

3. Measure the hole spacings. Where to put the holes depends on the size of the glasses you’re using and the look you’re going for. My cups had 2-inch diameter bases, but bulged out to about 2.5 inches at the top. I had to make sure to leave room for the bulge, along with space between them.

On my 14-inch-long beer flight board, I centered the glasses 1 ¾ inches from each end and 3.5 inches from one another. This left plenty of space between them.

4. Cut the holes for the glasses. These holes should be slightly larger than the base of the glass, and about a quarter of an inch deep. The easiest way to cut them is with a Forstner bit and a drill—a drill press is even better if you have one. However, the problem with a Forstner bit is that it leaves behind an ugly (in my opinion) dimple in the very center of the hole. If you don’t mind that dimple, by all means build it that way. Many people do.

Set the depth stop of your plunge router to a quarter-inch below the flight wood, and route out the holes, running the bearing of the patterning bit along the edge of the plywood. This produces perfectly flat, uniform holes, and you can reuse the plywood on any other flights you make with the same spacings.

5. Sand until you have visions of the desert. Sanding separates good from great in woodworking. Use a random orbit sander to work through the grits: 120, 150, and 220. Then comes the really hard part: hand-sanding the holes. These don’t have to be perfect because people likely won’t touch them much, but you do want to sand away any unsightly drill or router marks.

6. Raise the grain and sand again. When wood gets wet, the fibers absorb water and swell. After sanding, this causes a rough finish to emerge the first time the wood comes in contact with water (or spilled beer). Beat the swelling to the punch by lightly wetting every surface of your beer flight boards and then hand-sanding the whole thing again with 220-grit paper. This will eliminate the raised grain that can ruin the feel of a good finish.

7. Apply the finish of your choice. Most finishes will work fine here, aside from shellac, which can be dissolved by alcohol. I chose spray-on polyurethane, for several reasons. One, it’s durable and reliable. Two, the spray makes it easy to completely coat both the holes and the live edge. And most importantly, I had half a can left on my shelf from another project that I needed to use.

The post Serve any brew in style with this DIY beer flight board appeared first on Popular Science.

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After spending countless hours putting together a killer workstation, you have a tricked-out desktop computer, multiple monitors, bangin’ speakers, and… a computer desk that’s too tiny to fit it all. Here’s how to build your own ergonomic, customized computer table that displays all your tech, looks awesome—and doesn’t break the bank.

What you’ll need

There are an infinite number of ways to construct a desk. But for this particular project, I have four criteria I need my DIY computer desk to hit:

1. Large: The vast majority of desks you’ll find in the store are 60 inches long or less. I needed a large computer desk at least 80 inches across to fit all my gear, and the few store-bought options I found just didn’t cut it. They were either ugly and cheaply made, or too expensive—a large, decent-quality one will run you at least $400.
2. Cheap: Making something yourself instead of buying it almost always saves some money—in this case, it’s going to cut hundreds of dollars from the price. Our materials cost about $250 new, but depending on your deal-hunting skills and the parts you already have lying around, you’ll hopefully be able to get everything for $150 or less. That’s about half the price of most store-bought desks this size. Since there are so many different options for materials, make sure you pick the best wood for desktop. The type of wood you choose can depend on what color or design you’re going for as well as how much weight it will have to support.
3. Easy: You can fabricate an entire desk out of a single sheet of plywood or medium-density fiberboard (MDF) for under $100, but doing so requires a lot of tools and know-how. We want our project to be accessible to anyone, including those without lots of woodworking experience—even if that boosts the price a little.
4. Ergonomic: Too many people ignore the difference between a custom “computer desk” and a “writing desk.” Over time, those differences can wreak havoc on your body. In this project, I’m going to mix the sleek look of the latter with the ergonomics of the former to get the best of both worlds.

After lots of research, I decided to construct my desk out of a door slab and some adjustable desk legs from Ikea. It knocks all four goals out of the park, and as a bonus, you should be able to find the parts easily, no matter where you live. Here’s what I used.

The surface

For a big piece of furniture like this, you need a spacious desktop. And there are a few slabs you could try.

The Ikea Karlby countertop has become incredibly popular due to its large size and relative affordability—it costs between $100 and $200, depending on the size and color. Although you could use one with this guide, I wanted to go even cheaper. So I got a big door for my tabletop.

Doors have very reasonable price points, with new ones selling for $50 to $100. If you scour Craigslist, you can probably find some that cost even less, or pick up a free one if you’re really lucky. A door won’t be quite as polished around the edges as the Karlby, and it may require extra work to stain or paint, but I dig the more industrial look. Keep an eye out for something that’s solid core (not hollow) and has a width that matches your ideal desk depth—most doors range from 24 to 36 inches wide. If you have a circular saw, you can always cut a larger slab down to size, but for a patient shopper, that shouldn’t be necessary.

[Related: The best safety advice for any beginner woodworker]

I opted for a door that shows off the wood grain. Then I sanded, stained, and finished it myself. If you end up using a secondhand door, you may have to deal with a hole where the handle used to be, though you can always use it for cable management in the back. In my case, I hid the hole under my mouse and keyboard mat.

While most people would recommend standard desk legs or industrial pipe, I chose Ikea’s Olov legs. At $15 apiece, they’re a bit more expensive than Ikea’s regular table legs, but they’re adjustable, which means you can find the perfect height for you. This is crucial for good ergonomics, so it’s well worth the extra cost.

Again, hunt Craigslist to see if you can find cheaper legs. I bought a used table containing five Olovs from a neighbor. It cost $30 total—much less than the $75 Ikea would charge for five new legs.

The drawers

No workspace is complete without a place to stash your flash drives, sticky notes, and other miscellanea. I recommend that you fulfill this requirement with a filing cabinet or set of drawers that matches your ideal desk height (for a guide to calculating that height, see the next section) so you can use it as one of the legs. Because it depends on your own size, this component will be very personal.

I don’t want to sound like a broken record, but Craigslist is your friend here—though Wayfair will also do if you don’t have a bustling secondhand market in your area. I used a filing cabinet I already had in my house with a plastic desk organizer jury-rigged into the top drawer to hold all my stuff.

Everything else

Those are the bones of our build, but you’ll probably want a few other things to pull it all together. I highly recommend two of these anti-sag stiffeners, which are important for large pieces of furniture that tend to sink under their own weight.

I bought an unfinished door and stained it myself, so I also needed wood stain and a semi-gloss polyurethane.

Other items will help keep your gear in order. If your computer monitors aren’t height-adjustable, you may want to prop them up on something like a monitor stand. To really tidy up your workspace, I also recommend some sort of cable management, like a rain gutter or the Ikea Signum tray. Be sure to add a mousepad too—it’ll protect the desk surface from black marks and excessive wear.

Last, you’ll need two tools: a drill and a screwdriver (or a drive bit for your drill). You must attach everything to the wood with screws, but you’ll want a drill to create pilot holes, and a drive bit will make it much easier to put the pieces together. If you don’t own one, borrow a drill from a neighbor.

Building the desk

2. Plan the ergonomics. While you’re waiting for the door to dry, do a little ergonomic experimentation. Grab your desk chair and adjust the seat height and arm rests to a comfortable position. Your feet should be flat on the ground, with your elbows and knees at approximate 90-degree angles. Once you’ve got your position just right, measure the distance from the floor to the top of the arm rests, and then subtract the thickness of your surface—usually about an inch and a half. The resulting measurement is the setting you’ll want for your Olov legs, as well as the ideal height for your filing cabinet or drawers. Write it down, and buy the drawers if you plan to include them.

3. Place your parts. When your slab is ready, flip it upside down and plan out your build, starting with the legs. I recommend one leg in each of the four corners, with a fifth one in the center of the back edge for support. If you plan on incorporating that filing cabinet, it will replace one of those front legs.

Next, grab your anti-sag braces and find a place for them near the middle of the surface. If they bump up against the area where you plan to put your filing cabinet, you may need to set them slightly off-center. If you have any cable management trays, stick them in whatever empty space you have left over. I’m using an Ikea Signum tray and mounting my surge protector on its underside. I had to do a little finagling to find room for everything, so it’s a good idea to plan this all out before you start drilling holes.

4. Start assembling. Once you’ve found a place for everything, mark and drill some pilot holes for the legs, anti-sag braces, and anything else you’re attaching to the underside. This is critical: If you just start screwing into the surface, you’re likely to split the wood. Attach everything, including the leg brackets, except for the legs themselves. This will take some time and elbow grease, so again, I recommend using your drill as a driver to make things go a lot faster.

5. Add the legs. Now’s a good time to carry your door into the office for the last few steps—you’ll find it a lot less cumbersome to move before attaching the legs. Once it’s arrived in its new home, screw the Olov legs into the brackets. You can then adjust them to your desired height by unscrewing the bottom, sliding them out, and screwing them clockwise to tighten them.

6. Check the stability and height. Now, flip your desk over and stick the filing cabinet underneath. Ensure that everything is level. (If you don’t own a level, your phone may have a rudimentary one built in.)

While you’re reviewing the desk’s stability, also check its height with your chair. It may seem awfully low to the ground, but that’s because most desks are designed for writing, not computing. Computer desks are usually writing height, with a keyboard tray at arm level. You could set your home-built desk higher and use a screw-on keyboard tray to improve the ergonomics, but I prefer to put everything on one big, flat surface.

7. Set everything up. Once you’ve double-checked the size and stability of your creation, set up your computer, adjust your monitor so the top is at eye level, and enjoy your new custom workspace!

Make it your own

The post Build your own desk with custom features like USB ports and biometrics appeared first on Popular Science.

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Spicy food is exciting. Eating it comes with the thrill of consuming something that is meant to hurt you—contests like Paqui’s One Chip Challenge have gone viral many times over. When you cook, adding a bit of heat can be a good way to get a visceral reaction from your guests. And for a truly personal touch, you can craft a hot sauce recipe that’s entirely your own.

Before you start

When you’re handling hot peppers, it’s important to keep your hands away from your eyes and other sensitive areas so you don’t accidentally irritate your skin. Capsaicin—the chemical compound in hot peppers that makes you feel like your mouth is burning—is largely found in the placenta, or the white stuff that connects the colorful flesh with the seeds. Use particular caution there. With milder peppers, like jalapeños or serranos, the decision to use gloves is up to you, but if you use your bare hands, make sure to wash them thoroughly when you’re done.

If you’re using a superhot pepper like the bhut jolokia or Carolina reaper, definitely wear gloves and be careful with the whole thing: their skin contains capsaicin too, according to Paul Bosland, director of New Mexico State University’s Chile Pepper Institute. Workers at Puckerbutt Pepper Company, where the Carolina reaper was invented, use two pairs of gloves when handling the peppers because the outer pair will wear off in just 30 minutes.

[Related: Why do people like spicy food?]

Although capsaicin is absolutely an irritant, the heat response you feel when touching or eating hot peppers is more of a biological trick. Your skin has one sensory receptor that responds to heat, and capsaicin can bind to that receptor, tricking your body into thinking it’s hot, Bosland says. Capsaicin attaches to fats and oils, but not water, so Bosland suggests reaching for any kind of milk if you eat something too hot. This heat-quenching strategy could be useful as you refine your hot sauce recipe. 

Stats

• Time: 15 to 30 minutes
• Ingredient cost: $10
• Difficulty: easy
• Yield: about 1 pint

Tools

• Cutting board
• Chef’s knife
• Blender
• Storage containers (like old hot sauce bottles or mason jars)
• (Optional) oven
• (Optional) funnel

How to make mild hot sauce

A pepper’s spice level is measured using the Scoville Heat Unit scale (SHU). Pure capsaicin is approximately 16 million SHU, and the Carolina reaper runs at about 1.5 million. This sauce uses jalapeños (about 8,000 SHU) and a roasted poblano (around 1,000 SHU) for a mild concoction with a lot of flavor.

This sauce came out green because all the peppers I used were green, but if you want a red hot sauce, you could use Fresno, Calabrian, or cayenne peppers. Beyond the base pepper-vinegar-salt combo, you can add a few cloves of garlic and some ground cumin if you want to make the flavor more complex. 

Ingredients

• 4 jalapeños
• ½ cup of white vinegar
• 1 teaspoon of kosher salt
• 4 garlic cloves
• Black pepper
• (Optional) 1 poblano pepper
• (Optional) 1 teaspoon of ground cumin

Instructions

1. (Optional) Roast the poblano. Preheat your oven to broil, then wash your poblano pepper. When the oven is ready, roast the pepper for five minutes on each side, 10 minutes total. You’re looking for charred, blackened skin, so feel free to cook for another five or 10 minutes if you’re not satisfied with the results.

2. Prepare your ingredients. Wash your peppers if you haven’t already, then remove their stems and peel the garlic cloves. Cut the jalapeños and poblano into halves or quarters, depending on their size. Since all of this will be blended together, you don’t have to finely chop the ingredients.

3. Blend everything. Put the halved peppers, garlic, white vinegar, and kosher salt into your blender, and blend until all the ingredients are well combined, about one minute.

4. Add seasonings. Despite the name of our publication, cooking can definitely be more of an art than a science sometimes. Before you add anything, taste the blend to figure out what’s missing. After my first spin, I added a teaspoon of ground cumin, eight cranks of black pepper, and another splash of white vinegar. If you think the sauce is too acidic, you can add a bit of sugar. If you want a very runny hot sauce (like Tabasco) you can add more vinegar. You can also dilute the vinegar with water to avoid making the sauce too acidic. 

• Note: This recipe is light on vinegar because I wanted a slightly more viscous sauce. It’s also important to remember that while you can always add more of an ingredient, you can’t add less, so use moderation if you’re unsure about proportions.

5. Blend everything again. Incorporate the seasonings you added by blending the mixture for another minute. Repeat steps 4 and 5 until you’re satisfied with how your sauce looks and tastes. 

6. Bottle it up. Once you’re happy with the taste of your homemade hot sauce, it’s time to store it. You can reuse old (clean) hot sauce bottles by putting a funnel into the bottle and pouring your new sauce in. If you have a few mason jars lying around the house, you can use those instead.

How to make spicier hot sauce

For a hotter sauce, I decided to use Thai (or bird’s eye) chilies. These chilies are small and packed with heat, coming in at roughly 100,000 SHU, so I added a red bell pepper to reduce the spice and increase the volume of my sauce. Hot sauces are normally made with white vinegar, apple cider vinegar, or rice vinegar, and I chose the last of those three for this because it’s the sweetest and least acidic—I was concerned about too many conflicting tastes. I also added some soy sauce (and halved the amount of salt so the sauce wasn’t too salty), garlic, and ginger to add a different type of pungent flavor.

Ingredients

• About ⅛ pound of Thai chilies
• 1 red bell pepper
• ½ teaspoon of kosher salt
• 2 garlic cloves
• 1 small knob of ginger
• ½ cup of rice vinegar
• ¼ cup of soy sauce
• (Optional) toasted sesame oil

Instructions

1. Prepare your ingredients. Wash your chilies and pepper, then remove their stems. Roughly chop the bell pepper. The Thai chilies are small enough that you can just leave them whole. Remove the skin from both the garlic and ginger.

2. Blend everything together. Put the peppers, chilies, garlic, ginger, rice vinegar, soy sauce, and kosher salt into your blender, and blend on high until the ingredients are well combined. This may take one to two minutes.

• Note: You may have to stop the blender and scrape down the sides a few times to ensure all ingredients are fully mixed into the sauce.

3. Add seasonings. For this sauce, the only additional seasoning I used was toasted sesame oil. Its flavor can be overwhelming, so add extremely small amounts if you use it, tasting until you reach your preferred flavor.

The post Experiment with spice by making this homemade hot sauce appeared first on Popular Science.

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Pictures are some of the most personal decorations you can have in your home. They represent memories, hopes, or even just a glimpse into your passions. One way to enhance the deep connection you have with the photos you display is to build the frame yourself.  

DIY picture frames are a simple, straightforward project that any beginner can take on. They’re also an excellent educational endeavor, as they form the foundation of many projects, like the wall-mounted laundry drying rack I made a few months ago. You can make something simple, like the basic frame I describe below, or try out some creative upgrades. Maybe you want to add splines, make the frames out of fancy moulding, or even explore how to do inlays for visual contrast.

I decided to go the basic route because I needed frames for my kids’ 5-by-7-inch school pictures in my office, and I didn’t want to distract from their handsome little faces. I also didn’t want to spend a ton of money, so I made as much of the frame as I could from materials I had kicking around. I scavenged the wood from the rails of an old bed, and the backer is cardboard from one of the many Amazon boxes we receive each week. And the best part is that no one will ever know they’re made from scraps. It’s amazing what a nice coat of paint will hide.

Warning: DIY projects can be dangerous, even for the most experienced makers. Before proceeding with this or any other project on our site, ensure you have all necessary safety gear and know how to use it properly. At minimum, that may include safety glasses, a facemask, and/or ear protection. If you’re using power tools, you must know how to use them safely and correctly. If you do not, or are otherwise uncomfortable with anything described here, don’t attempt this project.

Stats

• Time: 2 to 3 hours
• Material cost: $5 to $50
• Difficulty: Easy

Materials

• 2 (9-inch-long) pieces of ¾-inch wood
• 2 (7-inch-long) pieces of ¾-inch wood
• Acrylic sheet (or glass)
• Cardboard 
• Staples
• Hanging hardware
• Paint (or another finish)

Tools

• Table saw
• Orbital sander
• Sanding discs
• Corner clamps
• Clamps
• Digital angle gauge
• Drill
• Staple gun

How to build DIY picture frames

1. Clean up your reclaimed wood as needed. When working with recycled or reclaimed wood, whether it’s from pallets, old furniture, or a random board you found buried in your shed, you’ll need to clean it up before it touches tools. A shop vac and scrub brush can help remove dirt and debris from the surface. Then take out any hardware like hinges, screws, and nails. Consider using a nail-finding magnet if you regularly work with reclaimed wood—you don’t want to discover a missed nail with your table saw. If the boards are especially rough, you can also sand them down with 80-grit sandpaper.

2. Mill your wood to rough dimensions. Milling wood is a critical skill in woodworking, and PopSci has an entire guide on how to do it. Essentially, milling involves flattening each side of the board with a jointer and planer so the faces and edges form right angles. If you don’t start with flat wood, your corner joints won’t be as strong, and your frame might hang crooked on the wall. Depending on what kind of wood you’re using, you may not have to do much milling. My recycled bed rails were already flat and square, so I didn’t mill or joint them. I just cut them down to rough length on my miter saw and to actual width on my table saw. 

[Related: Tune up your table saw the right way]

At the end of your milling process, you should have two 9-inch-long boards and two 7-inch ones, all ⅝- to ¾-inch wide.

3. Cut the mitered ends on each board. Since this project is a frame for a 5-by-7 picture, with ¼-inch rabbet joints on all sides, the short side of each miter should be 4.5 inches on the smaller boards and 6.5 inches on the longer ones. The length of the longer side of each miter will depend on exactly how wide your boards are.

There are several ways to cut miter joints, including, as you may have guessed, on a miter saw. However, I prefer to use a table saw on smaller boards like this. It feels safer and more accurate. You can use the miter gauge that came with your table saw to make this cut, or you can build a mitering sled.  

• Pro tip: However you decide to cut the pieces, use stop blocks to set the lengths rather than measuring each cut individually, if you can. Stop blocks guarantee that the paired pieces are exactly the same size, which is critical to getting well-fitting miters.

4. Cut the rabbets. A rabbet is a small channel cut along the edge of a piece of wood. In this case, the rabbets are where the glass and picture sit in the frame without falling through the front. You’ll need to add these channels to the back of each board along the inside edge, so they all face inward when assembled.

Like many woodworking tasks, there are several techniques for cutting rabbets. My preferred method for narrow rabbets like these is on the table saw, using a single blade instead of a dado stack. Making two passes with a single blade is faster than changing over my saw to take the dado. 

Lay a board down flat next to the blade, and set its height to about half the thickness of the wood. In my case, this was about ⅜-inch tall. Then set your fence so the blade will cut the inside portion of the rabbet. Make your cut on all four frame pieces.

Once all four are cut, move your fence to the right an eighth of an inch, then cut again, removing more wood and widening the rabbet. If you still need to, keep moving the fence over until you’ve removed all of the material for the rabbet. 

• Warning: Even though the blade won’t stick out the top of the wood, still use a push stick or push block. You never know when a board might break, jump, or kick back, leaving your hands behind to fall on the blade.  

5. Glue the frames together. The easiest way to glue up miters is with specialized clamps. I used corner clamps for this project, which are designed for 90-degree glue-ups. You can also use a strap clamp, which is going to be my next shop upgrade. But have no fear if you don’t have specialized clamps for corners yet—painter’s tape works in a pinch.  

A more detailed explanation of how to use painter’s tape this way is available in an article I wrote about building a small wedding card box. The gist, however, is that you start by laying all four pieces of the frame down flat, end to end, with the outer points of the miters touching. Then connect them with a 2- to 3-inch piece of painter’s tape, pulling the tape as tight as you can. This will create a long train of frame pieces. Flip the whole unit onto its back, so the tape is down and the valleys of the miters are facing up. Spread a thin layer of glue into those valleys, then fold the miters together. The last corner won’t be secure, so stretch a piece of tape over it to hold it in place, then adjust everything as needed to make sure it’s flat and square. 

6. Cut the acrylic to size. Cutting acrylic is as easy as cutting a thin sheet of plywood on the table saw. You don’t need a special blade or anything. Size the acrylic to fit inside the rabbet within the frame. I cut mine about a sixteenth of an inch small so it slips in and out easily.  

There are a few tips that will make this step a bit easier:

• Leave the protective plastic on the acrylic while cutting. This will keep it from getting scratched by any dust or debris on your saw. 
• Make sure the acrylic can’t slide beneath the fence. If there is a large enough gap below the fence, clamp a flat, well-milled board to it, with one edge flush to the tabletop.
• Lightly sand the edges of the acrylic when you’re done. The friction of the saw blade melts the plastic, so you might be left with uneven edges. Those burrs come off no problem with 120-grit paper.

7. Sand the picture frames smooth. Because photo frames aren’t a high-contact item, and I was planning to paint them anyway, I didn’t do much sanding for this project. I only did a single pass with my orbital sander using 120-grit paper. This cleaned up any glue squeeze-out and small imperfections at the corners, while preparing the wood nicely for paint.

9. Cut your frame backer. There are all kinds of products you can use for this, but in the spirit of recycling, I used a piece of cardboard that I cut to size, using the acrylic as a template. It doesn’t really matter what you use, because no one ever looks at the back of a picture frame.  

10. Install hanging hardware. This is another decision that comes down to personal preference. I like to use sawtooth hangers because they’re pretty forgiving of a little imprecision in the hanging process. Picture frame wire is another easy method. Whatever you use, however, pre-drill the holes for any screws. You don’t want the frame to crack after you’re this far into the process.

11. Put it all together. Place the acrylic first, then the picture, then the backer piece. The final step is to secure that backer so that everything doesn’t fall out when you pick it up. There’s actually a specialized tool for this called a point driver, and you might want to pick one up if you plan on making a lot of picture frames. If, like me, you’re one of the many woodworkers who don’t have one, just use a staple gun.  

The post Simple DIY picture frames that will elevate your home decor appeared first on Popular Science.

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Sometimes being a woodworker is a lot like being a genie. The other day, my wife was using a curved wooden stirring spatula to make cheese sauce for mac ’n’ cheese. “I wish I had one of these, but way longer,” she said to me. So I went downstairs, found a scrap of maple about the size she wanted, and made her a bigger one. Though I’d never made a kitchen utensil before, it took about two hours, and was far easier than I had anticipated.

No matter your skill level, making a wooden spatula, spoon, or some other kind of utensil offers lots of options for creativity with a wide range of shapes and styles. You can copy something you already have like I did, find a template online to use as a base, or create a style that is completely new. Whether you’re looking for a relatively quick present or trying to enhance your kitchen arsenal, whatever you craft is sure to be a crowd pleaser.

Warning: DIY projects can be dangerous, even for the most experienced makers. Before proceeding with this or any other project on our site, ensure you have all necessary safety gear and know how to use it properly. At minimum, that may include safety glasses, a facemask, and/or ear protection. If you’re using power tools, you must know how to use them safely and correctly. If you do not, or are otherwise uncomfortable with anything described here, don’t attempt this project.

Stats

• Time: 1 to 2 hours
• Material cost: $5 to $10
• Difficulty: Easy

Tools

• Band saw
• Orbital sander
• Sanding discs (60-, 80-, 120-, 150-, and 220-grit)
• (Optional) tabletop belt and disc sander
• (Optional) spoon gouge
• (Optional) chisels

Materials

• 1 (1-foot) 1-by-2-inch maple board (or any hardwood board about the size of your soon-to-be spoon)
• Cutting board conditioner
• Painter’s tape

How to make a wooden spoon, or any other utensil

1. Draw your design on the wood. Because I made a larger version of an existing utensil, I freehanded the design with the original as a reference. If you purchased a template, cut it out and trace it onto your board.

Remember that a template has two profiles. There’s the main shape that you’d see when you put the utensil down flat, but there’s also the narrow edge profile. You’ll need to draw both of these.

• Pro tip: I always prefer drawing on the wood rather than taping a template to the board. This helps me avoid losing my design partway through if the paper falls off or gets shredded while I’m cutting.  

2. Cut out the rough shape on the band saw. Start cutting the largest profile, as though the utensil is lying flat. Try to get the general shape in one or two large cuts, rather than many small ones—this will make the second profile easier to trim.

[Related: The surprising woodworking tools you already have around the house]

3. Tape the cutoff pieces back onto the rough-cut block. This may seem counterproductive, but putting these edge pieces back in place stabilizes the board so you can cut out the second profile more safely and accurately. You may need to redraw sections of the edge profile over the tape, but you’ll thank yourself later.

4. Refine the shape. Once you have the general shape, use your band saw to trim the more intricate and detailed areas. You can also use chisels or hand saws for this, depending on your comfort, the cuts required, and your access to tools. Notch out the tighter angles and corners, start to shape the handle, and form whatever curves you can. If you have a spoon gouge (I do not), scoop out the spoon head as needed.  

Any material you remove now is material you won’t have to sand off later. If you’re using only an orbital sander, like I did, get as close as you can, because the orbital sander is slow. A belt sander removes more material faster, so if you have access to one of those, you can be a bit less precise with this step.

• Warning: Be careful while making these more intricate cuts, both for your physical safety and to avoid removing too much material. Better to spend 10 extra minutes sanding than to accidentally cut your handle (or fingertip) off. 

5. Sand until you can’t feel your hands, then sand some more. Sanding will be by far the longest and hardest part of this project. Rather than simply smoothing the wood like when you’re building a cutting board or piece of furniture, you’ll be using sanding to actually finish shaping the utensil. I sanded my entire spoon using just an orbital sander and my quickly-cramping hands, so it’s absolutely doable if that’s all you have. However, manual sanding will take a long time, and—as I said above—a belt sander will definitely speed up the process.  

Start with 60-grit paper to maximize material removal. Don’t be afraid to change sanding discs regularly when they start to dull. With this grit, your goal will be to remove all of the saw and chisel marks and refine the shape to near-finished dimensions. 

Most of my time was spent working on the handle, trying to find a comfortable shape and size. I actually went back to the bandsaw to remove more material several times during the sanding process, just to speed it along.  

• Warning: Don’t use a powered sander for this. If you do, you might take off too much material, and you’ll have the same roughness the next time your spoon gets wet. 

The post Make these DIY wooden kitchen utensils for your favorite cook appeared first on Popular Science.

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As much fun as eating cornmeal and screaming endlessly is, chickens can get bored too. Don’t laugh: bored chickens can cause more havoc than you might think. “They can start to develop abnormal behavior such as feather-pecking other birds excessively,” says Dana Campbell, an animal behavior scientist at Australia’s Commonwealth Scientific and Industrial Research Organization. You don’t want that in your coop.

Thankfully, providing enrichment for chickens is surprisingly easy, and can be as simple as adding a rustic wooden swing to their stagnant environment. This kind of structural enrichment has the added benefit of being incredibly entertaining to watch; you have not lived until you’ve seen a chicken turn a coop into a playground as it swings back and forth, clucking curiously. Plus, you can make one from materials you probably already have.

Stats

• Time: 10 to 30 minutes
• Material cost: $7 to $30
• Difficulty: Easy

Tools

• Drill
• Level
• (Optional) yarn needle
• (Optional) hand saw

Materials

• Rope
• Branches
• (Optional) wooden beads 
• (Optional) sandpaper 
• (Optional) eye hooks

2. Drill holes in the sticks. Where you put these holes also depends on how big your chickens are, but I made swings for several different breeds and drilled holes about an inch and a half from either end of each branch. You’ll want your drill bit to be slightly larger than your rope so it can slide through. I used a 9/32-inch bit for my swings.

3. (Optional) Sand the branches. If there are any particularly splintery or uneven areas of your branches, you can sand them down so the chickens can get a better grip with their talons. In the wild, chickens often roost in trees, so there’s no need to sand the branches to be totally even. It might actually be more enriching to err on the side of natural instead of using perfectly smooth sticks.

5. (Optional) Add some beads. After you cut the rope, but before you attach it to the branch, you can slide some wooden beads on to give your chickens some extra enrichment—your birds may spin the beads or find them visually appealing. Even if you don’t have the most curious chickens, these swing accessories will also spice up your coop decor. Once the beads are on, tie a knot below them.

6. Thread the rope through the drilled holes. This is where a yarn needle can be particularly helpful, especially if you’re using a type of rope that has a tendency to bunch up, like jute. When the rope’s through the holes, tie a double knot securely at the base of one of the holes. Use a level to make sure the branch is even, then tie a knot underneath the other hole.

7. Hang the swing. I tied the top of my rope to the rafters in the coop, wrapping it multiple times and tying it tight with several knots. Since chickens don’t weigh much, this is plenty secure. But if you want extra strength, drill holes into a beam inside your coop, screw in a couple metal eye hooks, and tightly tie the rope to the hooks. Make sure the hooks are the same distance apart as the two holes in the branch. 

8. Let your birds get to swinging. It may take time for your chickens to try out their new swing, so don’t worry if your feathery friends don’t immediately appreciate your work. You can help them get used to it by hanging the swing closer to the ground at first and gradually moving it up as they get more comfortable. Gently placing your birds on the swing and rewarding them with tasty mealworm treats can help them adjust as well. And while you can certainly teach an old bird new tricks, your best chance of raising avid swingers is to introduce the birds to a swing when they’re young. This project can always be downsized from branches to twigs to get juveniles well on their way to being swinging chicken prodigies.

The post Why you should build a swing for your chickens appeared first on Popular Science.

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A Lazy Susan, or turntable, can be a stylish and functional addition to your dining room or kitchen. Just imagine sitting down to a hearty holiday meal where everyone can access every dish without uncomfortable reaching or asking someone else to set down their fork and pass the potatoes. And if you build one yourself, you’ll have a conversation-starting centerpiece ready for every gathering

At its core, a Lazy Susan is just a circular cutting board on top of a smaller circular cutting board with turntable hardware sandwiched in between. The end result looks impressive, but don’t be intimidated—it’s a project anyone with moderate woodworking skill can handle. I built mine 18 inches in diameter from maple, with walnut accents, but there are numerous ways to customize yours. Maybe you want to use different types of wood, flip the boards so the edge or end grain is visible, or even burn designs into your piece. Whatever your personal aesthetic, you can find a way to make a Lazy Susan that feels unique to you or to the person you’re making it for.

Warning: DIY projects can be dangerous, even for the most experienced makers. Before proceeding with this or any other project on our site, ensure you have all necessary safety gear and know how to use it properly. At minimum, that may include safety glasses, a facemask, and/or ear protection. If you’re using power tools, you must know how to use them safely and correctly. If you do not, or are otherwise uncomfortable with anything described here, don’t attempt this project.

Stats

• Time: 6 to 8 hours
• Material cost: $40 to $100
• Difficulty: Moderate

Tools

• Miter saw (or circular saw)
• Table saw
• Router
• Pattern router bit, aka a trim router bit
• Orbital sander (or a belt sander, or a hand plane)
• Sanding discs (60-, 80-, 120-, 150-, and 220-grit)
• Clamps
• Drill
• ¾-inch Forstner bit
• Jigsaw
• Sanding sponges
• Level
• Speed square
• (Optional) circle-cutting router jig
• (Optional) tack cloth
• (Optional) compressed air

Materials

• 1 (9-foot) 6-by-1-inch maple board (or any hardwood board that’s at least ¾-inch thick—for stability)
• 1 low-profile Lazy Susan hardware
• Cutting board conditioner
• 1 bag of ¼-inch wood screws (or whatever your Lazy Susan hardware requires)

How to build a DIY Lazy Susan

1. Cut the boards for the large and small Lazy Susan discs. For my 18- and 10-inch-diameter circles, I cut my maple board into four 19-inch lengths for the top and three 11-inch lengths for the bottom. Next, joint (or square) the boards so the two edges are parallel with one another and perpendicular to one face of the board. If you don’t own a jointer, you can do this on a table saw. 

We have a detailed guide on how to joint wood without a jointer, but I can summarize the basics. First, place a level alongside your table saw’s fence and press the more concave edge of the board against the level. Then adjust the saw fence so the blade will take a sliver off the other edge of the board, and push the board and level together to make the cut. This will create a straight edge that is perpendicular to the board’s bottom face. Next, flip the board around, keeping the same face down, and trim the other edge using the table saw fence like normal (without the level). Do this with all of the boards for the panels. 

2. Glue the longer lengths to form the top panel. Spread glue over the edges of each piece of wood and clamp them together in a roughly square shape, using a pair of clamps beneath the form. Then place two more clamps on top, about a third of the way in from each end, and tighten those. Having clamps on the top and bottom of will help keep the boards from twisting as the glue dries. If you want, you can add clamping cauls to ensure an even flatter glue-up.

Tighten the clamps until glue squeezes out of all the seams. If no glue comes out, you didn’t use enough. Wipe away as much of the glue squeeze-out as you can with a damp paper towel while the glue is still wet. This will make life easier when you sand the board later.

• Pro tip: You can put thin pieces of a different kind of wood between the lengths to create a decorative, striped look. My Lazy Susan, as mentioned above, is made from light-colored maple with dark walnut accent stripes.

5. Draw your circles. It’s tempting to use the string method to draw a circle: drive a nail into the middle of the board, tie a piece of string around it, and tie a pencil to the string one radius away from the nail. And honestly, this is what I did first. Unfortunately the string flexed and the pencil tilted slightly as I drew my circle. Not much, but enough that my “circle” was about a quarter-inch shorter along one diameter then another. 

A better strategy is to use a long piece of flat wood instead of string. After sticking a nail roughly into the center of each board (make sure you don’t nail into the face you want to be the top of your Lazy Susan), drill a nail-sized hole at one end of a thin piece of scrap, then drill two more holes large enough for a pencil to poke through at the radiuses of the two circles (5 and 9 inches away from the center nail for me).

When the template is ready, slip the scrap over the nail in the bigger board and methodically spin that wood around to trace the bigger circle. Repeat this with the smaller board. The wood won’t flex or allow the pencil to move nearly as much as string, and you should end up with two near-perfect discs.

And, of course, if you have your own foolproof circle-sketching method, use that.

6. Cut out your circles. There are several ways to do this. The easiest is with a circle-cutting jig and a plunge router. If you have access to these, you can actually skip Step 5. But I don’t have either, so I used a jigsaw, a palm router, and an orbital sander. 

Start by cutting out one of the circles with the jigsaw, staying to the outside of the line. Once you’re done with the cut, trim to the line with the palm router and a straight-cut bit. Take your time with this so you don’t slip and cut into the circle. Finally, clean up all the edges with your random orbital sander and 60-grit sandpaper. If you don’t have a router, you can use the orbital sander to get to the line, but it may take longer to remove enough material.

• Note: You may have noticed the bevel along the bottom of my top panel. Beveled edges look awesome, and I put them on all of my cutting boards, but beveling a circle seemed like a lot of work and I had no intention of doing so. Then my router caught a knot and tore a big chunk out of the top panel. To fix the chunk, I beveled the bottom, using my orbital sander with 60-grit sandpaper to create an approximately 45-degree bevel around the whole thing. It took a long time, and I don’t recommend it. But it looks great. That said, I probably won’t add a bevel to my next turntable unless I have to.

7. Pre-drill holes for the turntable hardware. The best drill bit to use for this step is one that’s smaller than the shaft of the screws included with your turntable hardware. Before you drill, center the turning hardware on the correct side of the board (the bottom of the top board and the top of the bottom one). 

Line up each of the screw holes in the turning hardware on those diameter lines. If there is a line visible in the middle of each hole, you’re centered. Mark the position of each of the pilot holes and drill them out.

• Note: This method will only work if there are four screw holes that form a square. Any other configuration and you’ll need to center the hardware differently.

8. Drill an access hole in the bottom board. In order to actually attach the turning hardware, you’ll connect it first to the bottom board, then to the top. However, there’s not enough room between them to use a screwdriver or drill, so you’ll need to bore an access hole.

To find the right spot, lay the turning hardware in place on the bottom board. Then spin the piece of the turning hardware that attaches to the top board so the empty screw hole is over wood, not metal. Mark that position, then drill a ¾-inch hole through the bottom board. This will serve as an access hole so you can fasten the hardware to the top board. 

(Optional) 9. Route insets for the turning hardware. This isn’t strictly necessary, but will make it easier to install the hardware. While you’re marking for pilot holes, trace the outline of the hardware. Then, using a router and a straight cutting bit, route an inset the same depth as the thickness of the metal turning hardware. This inset will hold the hardware in place when you’re trying to install it, which will be a big help.

10. Sand both circles smooth. Sanding is the key to great-looking woodworking. At this point in the project, you’ve already sanded everything flat with 60-grit paper. Now use your orbital sander to move though the remaining grits: 80, 120, 150, and finally 220. I rarely see the point in going higher than 220-grit, and this project is no different. Higher grits can close the pores of the wood, making it harder for the oil finish to soak in, and 220-grit feels extremely smooth to the touch. There’s a diminishing return on quality above 220 that doesn’t seem worth the time. 

The only thing to be careful of is not to ruin the curve of the boards, which can be easy to do with an orbital sander. To avoid that, I sanded the edges by hand with sanding sponges.  

Once you’ve sanded to 220, you’ll need to raise the grain of the wood and sand again. When wood gets wet, the fibers absorb moisture and swell, creating a rough texture on even the best-sanded projects. To combat this, use a spray bottle to wet the wood after sanding with the 220-grit paper, let it dry, and lightly hand-sand with 220 again. The smooth texture will remain.

11. Apply finish to the top and bottom boards. I used two coats of butcher block conditioner, which is a mixture of mineral oil and beeswax that is easy to apply and food-safe. I used Howard’s because that’s available at my local hardware store, but any brand should be fine. 

Simply pour some of the oil onto the board and spread it around with either a lint-free rag or a plastic spreading tool until the wood is completely saturated (old driver’s licenses and credit cards work great for this). Allow the finish to soak in according to the manufacturer’s recommended timing, and then wipe off any excess or apply a second coat if the wood soaked it all in.

If you need something more permanent and durable, consider using wood bowl finish. 

12. Install the turning hardware. The very last step is to attach the turning hardware. This is easy, but the order matters. 

Screw the turning hardware to the bottom board first, using the pre-drilled pilot holes from Step 7. Then, flip the whole unit upside down and position the turning hardware on the top board. This is where the ¾-inch access hole you drilled in Step 8 comes into play. You should be able to turn that bottom board until the large hole is over one of the screw holes for the top board. Using a screwdriver or drill, drive in the first screw, then turn the bottom board to get to the next screw location.

The post No need to pass the potatoes—spin them with this DIY Lazy Susan appeared first on Popular Science.

Articles may contain affiliate links which enable us to share in the revenue of any purchases made.

When you have a lot of clothes that don’t fare particularly well in the dryer, it can be hard to figure out where to hang your freshly washed bathing suits, gym clothes, delicate shirts, and of course, unmentionables. My family has been draping those damp garments from the wire shelf above the washer, but we’re sick of doing that. It’s ugly, and it doesn’t work all that well—the clothes fall into a pile or slip behind the machines half the time.

At the time of publication, the laundry hanger has been up for about a month, and it’s already significantly improved both the look and function of our laundry room.

Warning: DIY projects can be dangerous, even for the most experienced makers. Before proceeding with this or any other project on our site, ensure you have all necessary safety gear and know how to use it properly. At minimum, that may include safety glasses, a facemask, and/or ear protection. If you’re using power tools, you must know how to use them safely and correctly. If you do not, or are otherwise uncomfortable with anything described here, don’t attempt this project.

Stats

• Time: 4 to 6 hours
• Cost: $50 to $75
• Difficulty: moderate

Tools

• Jointer
• Planer
• Table saw
• Crosscut sled (or miter saw)
• Orbital sander
• Sanding discs (60-, 80-, 120-, 150-, and 220-grit)
• Tape measure
• Pencil
• Corner clamps
• Clamps
• Painter’s tape
• Router
• Roundover bit
• Drill
• Drill press
• ⅜-inch drill bit
• Countersink bit
• Brad nailer
• Level
• Stud finder
• Digital angle gauge
• Wire cutters
• Flush cut saw

Materials

• 1 (9-foot-long) 1-by-6-inch poplar board
• ¼-inch poplar plywood
• 1-inch brad nails
• Wood glue
• Hinges
• Super glue
• Magnets
• 3 ⅜-inch dowels
• Spray paint
• Chain
• Hooks
• Drywall anchors

How to build a wall-mounted drying rack

1. Mill the lumber to rough dimensions. This is one of those projects where the better you mill your lumber, the better results you’ll get. Start by cutting your board down to rough length, about 1 inch longer than the final dimensions of each piece. You may be able to optimize your choice of wood differently, but I reached this point with one 29-inch board for the long sides of the outside frame, one 27-inch board for all sides of the inside frame, one 23-inch board for the remaining pieces of the outside frame, and a 25-inch board for the upper shelf.

If you aren’t sure of the next steps, I put together a full, detailed guide on how to properly mill and joint wood. The basics, though, are to joint one face and edge, plane the opposite face, and then cut the pieces down to their final width on your table saw. When you’re done, you should have nine perfectly milled boards: 

• 2 (23-by-1.5-inch) boards for the top and bottom of the outside frame
• 2 (29-by-1.5-inch) boards for the left and right sides of the outside frame
• 2 (20-by-1-inch) boards for the top and bottom of the inside frame
• 2 (27-by-1-inch) boards for the left and right sides of the inside frame
• 1 (25-by-4-inch) board for the top shelf

2. Cut the miters. As part of this step, you’ll also trim the boards down to their final lengths. There are several ways to cut the 45-degree angles, and one of the most common is with a miter saw. Simply adjust the angle of your tool to 45 degrees, and trim the ends of each board to length. I, however, prefer to use my table saw and a crosscut sled, with the blade set to 45 degrees. For this to work, you’ll either need to set your blade to 45 degrees and cut a new blade channel in your existing crosscut sled, or build a second sled specifically for miters, which is what I did.

Before you start cutting, use a digital angle gauge to confirm that your blade is set to 45 degrees. It may not seem like much, but 44.8 degrees can leave some pretty big gaps between pieces, even if you do manage to force your frames square. 

• Pro tip: Glue the outside frame together before cutting the miters for the inside frame. This will let you double-check the interior dimensions. In my case, I forgot to account for the wood I’d removed in milling, so the gap between the two frames would have been about a quarter-inch larger than I’d planned if I’d cut all the miters at the same time.  

3. Drill dowel holes in the inner frame. The dowels you’ll hang your clothes on attach to the inner frame. To keep the frame square and ensure the dowels stay parallel, the holes in both side pieces need to be perfectly aligned. The easiest way to do this is to drill them at the same time.

Use painter’s tape to secure the two long side pieces of the inner frame together, with the outside edge of each piece pressing against each other and the shortest edge of each board facing out. Then measure the spacing of the dowels. I spread mine 4 inches apart, and 3 inches from each end of the board. This spacing seems to work well for most clothes we dry.

[Related: How to wash your clothes without wearing them out]

Once the boards are taped and the hole locations marked, use a ⅜-inch bit to drill through both boards. The best tool for this is a drill press. Put one of the short edges down on the press table, with the other hole facing up to drill out the holes. If you don’t have a drill press, you can use a regular drill, but make sure you are drilling straight through the boards, not at an angle. You can make a simple jig to help the alignment.

4. Glue up the frames. The easiest way I’ve found to do this is to use corner clamps. Spread a thin layer of glue onto each mitered end, then clamp the two pieces together. Adjust the wood inside the clamp until the outer corners are flush and the seam is tight. This method also makes it easier to install the dowels into the inner frame before gluing it up.

If you don’t have corner clamps, you can use painter’s tape. Lay out the pieces of each frame with the outer edges facing up and the connecting ends touching in a long line. Then stretch a 2-to-3-inch piece of painter’s tape across each joint. Flip all four boards over at the same time so the outer edges are facing down and the open miter joints face up. Spread glue inside each miter joint.

• Pro tip: Before gluing, put painter’s tape along the inside corner of each board, right next to the angle of the miter. This will catch the glue that squeezes out when the two boards come together, making sanding and cleanup faster and easier. 

5. Install the dowels in the inner frame. If you haven’t already, cut and install the dowels to fit the inner frame. I cut mine about an inch longer than they needed to be, so they stick out the sides half an inch. Smear some glue along each end of the dowels, and push them through the holes.

Clean up any glue squeeze-out with a damp paper towel. 

Again, for stability, drive a single brad nail through the back of the frame and into the dowel.  

Once the dowels are secure and the glue is dry, use a flush-cut saw to trim all the dowels even with the outer edge of the frame.  

6. Install top and bottom nailer strips on the outer frame. Right now, there’s no way to actually secure the frame to the wall. To solve this problem, install a nailer strip at the top and bottom of the outer frame.  

Cut two strips of ¼-inch plywood that are the same length as the outer frame is wide. Mine were 3 inches wide and 22 inches long. Glue and brad nail these strips to the back of the outer frame, flush with the top and bottom. There should be about 2 inches of nailer strip visible inside the frame.

(Optional) 7. Route any decorative trim elements. There’s absolutely nothing wrong with leaving your frames square, with right angles everywhere. However, if you would like to get away from the blocky look, now is the time to add some decorative elements. I chose to use a router with a roundover bit on the inside edge of the outer frame. This softened the profile a bit and gave the inner frame a nice, gradual inward slope. 

(Optional) 8. Install the shelf on the outer frame. If you want a shelf on top of your laundry hanger, install that now. Glue and brad nail the shelf to the top of the frame. Use clamps to secure it until the glue dries. 

9. Sand everything smooth. Time to pay the sandman. Sanding is the difference between a professional-looking product and one marred by saw marks and blemishes. Trust me, you’ll never unsee them. Use an orbital sander for any flat surfaces and hand-sand the decorative trim as needed. Start with 120-grit paper, and then move to 150- and 220-grit to finish.

Don’t forget to sand the dowels.  

10. Drill holes for the hinges. I’m not going to lie—I struggle with hinges. They always wind up slightly out of alignment, so if anyone has a foolproof way they do it, please let me know.

[Related: Build your own door and ascend to a higher level of DIY]

Absent that pro tip, first tape the hinges into position on the bottom of the inner frame. Then drill pilot holes for each hinge through the tape, so you can see where the hinge aligns into one frame.

Then position the frame inside the outer frame. Trace the edges and front of each hinge onto the outer frame, remove the hinge from the inner frame, lay it in place on the outer frame, and drill the pilot holes there.  

This way is fairly accurate, and I’ll keep doing it that way until I find a better method.  

13. Hang the rack on your wall. Install the outer frame first. Find and mark the studs in your wall and position the frame against them. Use a pencil to lightly mark where they go on the nailer strips, and then drill screw holes with a countersink bit. Next, screw the outer frame to the wall. If you only have one stud that will fall behind the frame, use a drywall anchor and one stud. Make sure you hit one stud, even if that means the rack has to go in a less-than-ideal location.  

Once the outer frame is up, install the inner one. Ideally, this is a two-person job. First, install the hinges into the bottom of the inner frame. Then, one person should hold the inner frame on the bottom lip of the outer frame so the hinges line up with the pre-drilled holes. The second person should screw the hinges into place.

If your inner frame is slightly out of alignment, loosen the screws on one hinge and shim it with thin pieces of scrap wood. Then tighten the hinge back down onto the shims. This will push the top of the inner frame away from the hinge that you shimmed; if you shim the left hinge, the frame will lean to the right.

You can install the inner frame before hanging the outer frame, but I thought it would be harder to attach it to the wall around the dowels than to install the hinges later. However, if you have to install this alone, it will likely be easier to install the inner frame before hanging.  

14. Cut and attach the chain. Finally, decide how far you want the laundry hanger to fold out into the room. Cut your chain with wire cutters to match that. The chain should run from the inside upper corner of the outer frame to the inside upper corner of the inner frame. Screw hooks into the appropriate locations, making sure that neither the hooks nor chains interfere with opening or closing the frame. If there’s no location where the hooks don’t get in the way, you can use very small screws instead.

Now it’s just time to wash some laundry, hang a few pieces up, and watch them dry. Well, maybe not watch. Go away and build something else while they dry. But then come back later and enjoy the fact that your bathing suit is, in fact, dry.

The post Build a simple wall-mounted laundry rack to dry your delicates in style appeared first on Popular Science.

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Sometimes, the best gifts are the ones you craft from the heart. Make gifts your friends and family will appreciate—and save some cash while you’re at it—with these early Black Friday 3D printer deals on Amazon. Even if you’re not a veteran maker, you can currently score a solid deal on a printer that fits your skillset or your ambitions to make your own doodads.

SEE IT

Bring the makerspace into the comfort of your own home with this ANYCUBIC Kobra Go, on sale for $199.99, 38% off its $319.99 list price. One-touch leveling and printing make it easy to operate and great for those entering the world of 3D printing. The steel printing platform resists drops and abrasions while allowing you to remove your projects easily by simply bending the steel. Your project will be done way before the New Year thanks to this 3D printer’s 60-100 millimeters per second print speed. And, you can print a soccer ball-sized project thanks to the printer’s high print volume.

If you want to get your filament collection started, check out this filament pack, which boasts 22 colors for less than $10. If you’re looking for something a bit more hands-on (literally), this SCRIB3D 3D printer pen is on sale for $39.99, its lowest price in 30 days.

Here are more 3D printers on sale right now on Amazon:

• ANYCUBIC Vyper 3D Printer $343.99 (Was $429.99)
• Official Creality Ender 3 3D Printer $189 (Was $249.99)
• WEEDO TINA2 Mini 3D Printer $149 (Was $199)
• ELEGOO 3D Printer $169.99 (Was $239.99)

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There are few pieces of computer history more iconic and, at one time, ubiquitous as the Commodore 64. Produced between 1982 and 1994, the C64 still holds the Guinness World Record for all-time bestselling desktop computer—but it’s probably pretty safe to say that of the roughly 12.5 million units sold, only two of them were subsequently programmed to become an adorable, 8-bit “accordion.”

[Related: How technology can help you learn a musical instrument.]

Readers, please behold the “Commodordion,” a ridiculous, adorable musical contraption built using two C64 keyboards, custom software and wiring, as well as a bellows painstakingly constructed from taped-together floppy disks. First unveiled in late October by Linus Åkesson, a Swedish software engineer, YouTuber, and, as his video showcases, accomplished musician, the Commodordion looks predictably as difficult to play as the portmanteau is to pronounce. Åkesson, however, makes the whole thing look relatively simple, demonstrating his wonderful setup through an extremely impressive rendition of Scott Joplin‘s “Maple Town Rag” from 1899.

[Related: Best speakers for music of 2022.]

As Åkesson explains in his 11-minute video, the Commodordion intentionally builds off of his previous projects, the Sixtyforgan and Qwertuoso, and employs a custom-made mixer circuit board combining audio signals from both C64 keyboard rigs. The airflow through a hole in the device’s floppy disk bellows feeds into a mounted microphone, which then translates the noise into an audio envelope and the ensuing sound is emitted through an external speaker. The music software itself was also designed by Åkesson using a Commodore Datasette emulator board.

Unfortunately, as Åkesson and Ars Technica‘s writeup both note, C64 keyboards weren’t exactly designed to be held, much less typed upon vertically. As such, the whole contraption is pretty ergonomically rough on a player’s wrists, hands, and arms. “This rather undermines the potential for the Commodordion as a viable musical instrument,” Åkesson writes on his website, making it unlikely we’ll ever participate in a Commodordian polka party.

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Pretty much everybody has shelves in their home. But not everybody has shelves that make their friends stop, step back, and say, “Now, wait one minute. How on Earth are those things attached to the wall?”

Though they may seem like magic, so-called floating shelves are a straightforward woodworking project—the trick is hiding the hanging brackets inside the wood. There are numerous ways to make floating shelves, but the one I tackled in my house features a piece of 2-by-12 construction lumber and some dowels.

No part of the build is particularly complicated, but this project does have some steps that require precision. Accuracy here is important for strength, but also helps hide the wall-mounting method. Observant guests might be able to see the seam in the shelf that spoils the illusion, but it’s pretty well concealed.  

So the next time you need shelves, consider trying to make them float. Here’s the spell.

Warning: DIY projects can be dangerous, even for the most experienced makers. Before proceeding with this or any other project on our site, ensure you have all necessary safety gear and know how to use it properly. At minimum, that may include safety glasses, a facemask, and/or ear protection. If you’re using power tools, you must know how to use them safely and correctly. If you do not, or are otherwise uncomfortable with anything described here, don’t attempt this project.

Stats

• Time: 2 to 4 hours
• Cost: $50 to $80
• Difficulty: Moderate

Tools

• Miter saw
• Table saw
• Jointer
• Planer
• Hand plane
• Drill
• ¾-inch auger bit
• 5/16-inch drill bit
• ¾-inch Forstner bit
• Painter’s tape
• Orbital sander
• Sanding discs (60-, 80-, 120-, 150-, and 220-grit)
• Level
• Speed square
• Tape measure
• Pencil
• Center Finder marking gauge
• Stud finder

Materials

• 1 (8-foot) 2-by-12-inch board (adjust for the width and length of shelf you need)
• 2 (48-inch) ¾-inch dowels
• Wood glue
• 6-inch-long ⅜-inch lag bolts (one for every spot your shelf crosses a stud)
• 1 (¾-inch) wood screw per shelf
• Wood stain
• Staining pad
• Spray-on polyurethane

First, flatten one face. If you have access to a large enough jointer, you can use that. If you don’t, you’ll need to use a flattening sled on your planer or grab a hand plane to flatten one side. I used a hand plane because the board I bought was already pretty close to flat and it was a good opportunity to practice. 

Once one side is flat, joint one edge, either on your jointer or using a jointer sled on your table saw. From there, run the board through your planer to flatten the second face, and trim the remaining rough edge to width on your table saw. Finally, cut the two ends to length on your miter saw.  

The final dimensions of each of my shelves was 10.5 inches deep, 4 feet long, and about 1 ⅜ inches thick.

2. Measure where the studs will fall on the back of each shelf. This step will save you headaches later. Locate the studs in the wall with a stud-finder (or whatever method you prefer). Then figure out where exactly you want each shelf and mark the location of the intersecting studs on the back of each board. Knowing where the studs are will help in two ways. First, it’ll be easier to pre-drill holes for your lag bolts later. Second, when you’re drilling the holes for the support dowels in Step 3, you can space them out so they won’t interfere with the bolts.  

While marking for the studs, use a center line marker to draw a line along the back of each shelf. You’ll use this as a reference for the dowel and lag bolt holes later on.

4. Drill the dowel holes. The most important thing when drilling these holes is to keep them straight and level. I recommend building a jig to keep the drill bit perpendicular to the back of each board. That said, I did not build a jig. Instead, I set my speed square on the top of the shelf directly above where I wanted the hole, overhanging the back by about 3 inches. Then I used my combination square to set it perpendicular to the board. The speed square served as a visual reference to keep the auger bit straight. It worked, but I feel like there was too much room for error. If I ever make these again, I’ll build a jig.  

Drill the holes about three quarters of the way through the board. On my shelves, that meant about 8 inches. If your bit won’t reach that full depth, you’ll have an opportunity to deepen the holes later.

(Optional) 5. Shape the edges of your boards. If you want to shape the edges of your shelves, now is the time to do it. A simple option is to cut a bevel on the bottom of each shelf with your table saw, which is what I did. I chose this because the bevel gives the illusion that the shelves are thinner than they really are.

• Pro tip: Scribble lightly with a pencil all over the top and bottom faces of your boards before sanding. As you sand, the pencil marks will disappear. This will help you see where you have and haven’t sanded, which can be easy to lose track of on large projects like this.

(Optional) 8. Deepen your dowel holes. If you need to deepen the dowel holes from Step 4, now is the time. The existing hole should keep the drill bit straight now, so you won’t need to worry about any kind of guide or jig. 

• Caution: Be careful not to drill out through the front of the shelf. You can put a piece of painter’s tape on your drill bit to give yourself a visual reminder of the proper depth.

9. Drill pilot holes. If you’re confident in your measurements from Step 2, you can drill pilot holes for your lag bolts into each hanger board now. Otherwise, you can wait until you actually install the shelves. I used a 5/16-inch bit for the pilot holes, and a ¾-inch Forstner bit to countersink space for the bolt heads.

Also drill a small pilot hole for a single wood screw with a 5/32-inch drill bit in the bottom of each shelf board, directly into one of the middle dowel holes. 

• Caution: I do not recommend cutting wood this small on a miter saw. Kickback from cutting small stock with my miter saw is the only time I’ve needed stitches from woodworking, so I avoid doing it now.

11. Sand the dowels to fit. In a perfect world, all ¾-inch dowels would be the same size and you wouldn’t need to sand them down. We do not live in a perfect world. One of mine slid easily into the ¾-inch holes. The other didn’t fit at all.

If your dowels don’t slide into the hole, you’ll need to make them fit. If you have access to a lathe or a drill with a chuck big enough to hold your dowels, this is easy. Simply attach the dowel to the tool, spin it up, and rub sandpaper against the dowel as it turns. Don’t overdo it—test-fit regularly until the dowel slides in without much force, but holds snuggly in place with friction.

Otherwise, sand them down by hand with 60- or 80-grit sandpaper until they fit. I’ll warn you—this is the worst woodworking task I’ve ever undertaken. And the numerous blisters on both my hands recommend that you wear gloves while you do so. Or better yet, have the foresight to find dowels that already fit. 

• Pro tip: Now that I’m older and wiser, I’d recommend going to the hardware store with a scrap board you’ve drilled a ¾-inch hole in. Test-fit the dowels to find ones that slide into the hole as they are. This will save you a ton of time.

12. Glue the dowels into each hanging board. Once the dowels are the right size, glue them in place. Have rags or paper towels on hand because this is messy. Smear a thin layer of wood glue on the bottom 2 inches of a dowel, add a few drops of glue into the hole in the hanging board, and push the dowel in from the front (the face that will touch the shelf board) until it’s flush with the back of the hanging board (the face that will touch the wall). Immediately wipe all of the glue away. Any glue on the shelf or dowels will interfere with the fit of the shelf board.  

• Pro tip: I’ll admit, I didn’t come up with this tip—that honor goes to my wife. Slide the shelf board part-way onto the dowels while they’re drying to help hold them at the angles you want them. This will make installing it later easier. We had some trouble after the glue had dried because one of the dowels had moved slightly in its hole.  

13. Stain and finish the shelves. Once the dowels are dry, finish them to your liking. I used Minwax Natural Oak stain to match another piece of furniture we have in the room. You can use a rag or brush to apply stain, but I prefer staining pads. They’re faster and cleaner than any other method I’ve tried.

Once the stain is dry according to the manufacturer’s instructions, apply your chosen finish. My preference is spray-on polyurethane because it’s quick and easy. I applied three coats to the bottom and sides of each shelf, and five coats to the top, because that’s where the wear and tear will happen.

When the hanger board is secure, slide the shelf board over the dowels. Again, this is easier with two people, one working on each side of the shelf.  Wiggle the dowels as needed to get them lined up with the holes, and slide the shelf board into place. We had to sand some dowels down even more to get them all to fit. 

Finally, install the small wood screw into the pilot hole you drilled in Step 9. While the dowels should hold the shelf board in place with only friction, this is a simple safety feature to prevent the shelf from sliding apart.

And you’re done. Load your shelves up with whatever you need to store, and be prepared to amaze your friends with your magical shelving powers.

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‘Tis the season for spooky decor. And if there’s one ornament that screams that Halloween season is here, it’s a jack-o’-lantern. Unfortunately, many animals find pumpkins delicious, and if by the end of the season, yours has not turned into a rodent’s dinner, it will at least be rotten and destroyed. 

To avoid the stench of a decomposing piece of fruit on my porch, this year I made jack-o’-lanterns out of wood. This is a relatively straightforward build that still provides plenty of opportunities to flex your creativity. 

And regardless of the age and dexterity of the people living with you at home, you can make this project a family affair—I built three in my first batch, and had each of my kids and my wife design the faces. My children are only seven and I don’t trust them with a jigsaw yet, but they still helped assemble the boxes and tops. We also got to tromp through the woods together searching for the perfect stick to make the stems from. 

There’s also no reason these boxes have to be limited to Halloween. Carve whatever symbols speak to your favorite seasons or holidays, and you’ll have decorations to keep your home festive all year round. 

All I did to trim my boards was joint the long edges down to size on my table saw. Then I squared up and trimmed the ends to length using my crosscut sled. This process was more than adequate for creating a nice, tight box. You’ll be able to hide any gaps later with a coat of paint.

Pro tip: If you’re buying your wood, take your time at the store to sort through the lumber and find the flattest boards. Instead of just looking at it straight on, look down the full length of the board on all four sides, but particularly along each long edge. This is the best way to see the waves and warps. Spending 10 minutes searching for the best boards can save you a lot of headaches later on.

[Related: 3 Halloween costumes you can make with reused masks]

3. Glue the pieces together to form a box. Assemble the four sides of the box by smearing wood glue on one long edge of the front board, and pressing one of the two side boards against it. Make sure the edge is flush with the face. Drive brad nails through the sideboard into the edge of the front board to hold the two together while the glue dries. Then repeat the process with the other side. 

If you don’t have a brad nailer, you can use clamps for this step. The nailer is just faster, particularly if you’re making more than one box at a time. 

Continue by installing the back of the box in the same way. This board is shorter than the others to create an opening where you can slip the tea light into the box when it’s fully assembled, so you’ll need to position this board at the top of the box, not the bottom. If you haven’t carved your design yet, the top and bottom probably don’t matter at this point in the process. If you have, make sure the bottom of your design aligns with the tea light opening. 

5. Sand, sand, and then sand some more. Once the glue has dried, it’s time to sand. I use 120-grit sandpaper on my orbital sander. The priority is to flush the edges with the faces to hide some of the seams. This also helps make cutting the face with a jigsaw easier, as the saw won’t get hung up on the lips. 

I didn’t try to remove any pits, scratches, or imperfections in the wood, for two reasons. First, you’ll be painting your box bright orange which will hide a lot of those imperfections. Second, I’m aiming for a weathered look, which means holes, marks, and scratches fit the aesthetic beautifully. If you’re aiming for a more polished, pristine look, then by all means—keep sanding. 

6. Carve the face. I used a jigsaw to carve out the face, and the box shape created a stable platform for me to cut on that was deep enough for the saw blade to move up and down in. 

If I’d done it before assembling the box, I would have had to find (or build) a place to cut while clamping the board down to my bench, which seemed like a lot of unnecessary effort. 

The process with a jigsaw is pretty easy and took about 10 minutes. First, draw your design on the front of the box. Make sure that the face is oriented so the opening in the back panel is at the bottom.

Next, drill a series of holes in the design large enough for the saw blade to fit into. A 3/8-inch drill bit worked for my blades. The placement of these holes can make the difference between an easy path for your saw and a hard one. Put one hole in each corner of the design elements (eyes, nose, mouth, at the tips of teeth), so that you can cut from hole to hole along the line, and then back the other way as needed. This will allow you to make longer, smoother cuts, and reduces or eliminates the need to cut yourself space to turn around in, which leaves ugly, jagged edges behind. 

When I’d gotten most of the features smooth with the files, I went back over it one more time with a piece of 120-grit sandpaper wrapped around a small scrap of wood. This couldn’t get everywhere but did a decent job. I also used this to round over the sharp edges of the holes. 

8. Paint it like a pumpkin. You can paint your jack-o’-lanterns using whatever colors, techniques, or patterns you like. But If you want to replicate the weathered, rustic look of the pumpkins in the photos, you’ll have to go through a two-step process. 

Start by painting everything black—top, box, and base. I used regular black spray paint for this, but use whatever you have on hand or that you’re comfortable with. Then, paint over that black foundation with several light coats of glossy orange. I wanted the top and base to remain black, so I applied the new coats of paint to the box only. By doing light coats, the black underlayer shows through. I kept adding new coats until the vast majority of the box was orange, but there were still some specks of black, as though the paint had started to fade and discolor over time. It took about three coats of orange to achieve the look that I was going for. 

9. Pumpkins, assemble! Now it’s time to put everything together. The first step is to screw the stems to the top. My lanterns are designed to sit on stairs, so I used a 2-inch long piece of branch that my kids chose from a tree in my backyard as the stem. If you’re planning to hang the lantern, you can also use a dowel, or install an eye bolt. 

[Related: Five science tricks to scare up a better Halloween costume]

Then it’s just a matter of using wood glue to attach the top and bottom to the box. However, this was slightly tricky to clamp, so I used gravity and cyanoacrylates (CA) glue instead—a strong, fast-acting glue that bonds well to a wide variety of surfaces. A few dabs of CA glue at each corner kept the top from sliding. To add some clamping pressure, I just placed some heavy objects on the tops of the lanterns—screw boxes, my drill, a container of wall repair spackle, and some other random items. A few hours later, the combination made for a perfectly adequate glue-up. 

10. Light it up. The last step is to slip a flickering tea light inside the box through the opening in the back, flip it on, and then turn the lights off. The result should be a spooky, glowing Halloween decoration you can use inside or out. 

The post Make wooden Jack-o’-lanterns you can reuse for many happy Halloweens appeared first on Popular Science.

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An old friend from high school wanted a custom wedding card box. But hers had a twist—she was getting married on Halloween, so she wanted it to be in the shape of a coffin. As a woodworker, I’ve made boxes before, but never one shaped like a coffin. It presented some unique challenges and techniques I’d never used before, so I took it on. 

The resulting coffin can easily be used as a wedding card box, jewelry storage, or even a creepy decoration for Halloween. It’s stained dark, like the smears of chocolate on my kids’ faces at the end of the night, and lined with red velvet. 

2. Cut the wood down to size. If you bought wood that’s already the right thickness, cut it to width and rough length (about 1 to 2 inches longer than you need). I did both of these with my table saw—a regular rip cut for the width, and then I used a crosscut sled to cut to length. This approach gives me the most control and precision with my cuts. You can also easily do this with a miter saw. I used reclaimed wood, so I also used my jointer and planer to fully square and dimension the lumber.

[Related: These DIY hanging plant shelves will make your home feel like a forest canopy]

6. It’s time to glue. Once all the pieces are taped together and you’ve checked (yes, again) that they’re straight and in the right order, flip the whole unit over so the inside faces are up. Squeeze wood glue into each angle valley and spread it with a scrap of wood or your finger, so it coats the entire angle. Then fold the entire unit into the coffin shape, and glue and secure the final joint with one last piece of tape. Double-check that all of your joints are tight and secure, and add more tape as needed. 

7. Remove the tape. Once the glue has dried—check the manufacturer’s instructions for how long that will take—strip off all the tape and confirm that everything adhered properly. Then remove the glue squeeze-out with a chisel and an orbital sander with 80- or 120-grit sandpaper.

9. (Optional) Trace the box walls. If you’re planning to install a fabric liner later on, trace the inside of the box onto your poster board now before attaching the top and bottom.  

10. Prepare to finish the box. At this point, you can simply glue your box sides onto the base, screw the top on with hinges, and call it a day. However, I took mine a step further and inset the base. This involves creating a rabbet groove along the outside edge of the base the same thickness as the box walls, and then sliding the box on top of it. This inset gives the entire structure more stability and rigidity. 

11. (Optional) Cut the rabbet. The easiest and fastest way to cut a rabbet is with a straight bit router at a router table. Set the bit height to take about a 16th of an inch. Then route along all six sides, increase the bit depth, and do it again until you’ve created a groove about half the depth of the wood. Clean up the edges, and slide your box over the top. It should fit snug but without outward pressure on the joints.

• Tip: If you don’t have a router table, you can cut rabbets freehand with a router or take multiple passes with your table saw, moving the fence an eighth of an inch at a time. 

13. Clean up the glue and start sanding. When the glue is dry, clean off the residue with a chisel, paint scraper, or sandpaper, and sand again using 120-grit sandpaper. Check all of your glued seams and joints. There are likely some small holes or cracks in the glue lines. That’s totally normal. 

17. Install the hardware. Once the finish is dry, drill the pilot holes for your hardware screws and install the hinges and latches. You now have your very own tiny coffin. 

[Related: Build your own hot glue gun stand to prove you know more than scalding goop]

1. Cut pieces of poster board. Make sure they match the bottom, top, and inside walls of your box. Because mine was an odd-shaped box, I traced the inside of the box on the poster board before I attached the base. If you didn’t trace the inside of the box beforehand, you can trace the outside of the box now and subtract the thickness of your sides to find the inside dimensions.

2. Cut the fabric. Grab your scissors and ensure the fabric is about 1 inch bigger than its corresponding poster board piece in every direction. 

3. Glue the fabric in place. Using spray adhesive, fasten the fabric to the face of the poster board, leaving those 1-inch overhangs on each side. Make sure the fabric is flat on the board as you glue it—you won’t be able to eliminate folds once the adhesive sets. 

4. Finish adhering the fabric. Fold the fabric overhangs over the back of the poster board and stick them there with spray adhesive. Pull these tight to create even, smooth edges. 

The post Build a beautiful wedding card box shaped like a coffin for some spooky storage appeared first on Popular Science.

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Mechanical keyboards are all the rage and it’s easy to see why—there’s the pleasure of being able to really hit the keys, the clicky sounds, and the fact that they can be highly customizable. 

If you want to upgrade your typing experience with one of these gadgets, there are two ways to go about it: You can always buy one or, if you’re up for the challenge, put one together yourself. Choosing one approach or the other may not make a huge difference in the price tag of your new peripheral. But there’s only one way that gives you the satisfaction of having made a keyboard that’s specifically made for you and by you. 

If you’re ready for an adventure, here’s how you can build your own 65-percent mechanical keyboard. A high-end peripheral can easily cost in excess of $100, so we designed this project to be generally affordable, and if you want to cut costs further, you can even 3D-print your case. Ordering your components will generally be more expensive, resulting in a final price tag of around $150. Making your own parts, on the other hand, can reduce that cost to less than $50.

And don’t get deterred if you don’t have a 3D printer at home—you can always sign up for a membership at your local maker space where there will likely be machines you can use and even classes you can attend. If you really want to take the plunge and get your own 3D printer, we’ve put together a guide with everything you need to know before you buy one.

You can choose to buy an aluminum case or a plastic one. Aluminum tends to be more expensive, but it’s more solid and hefty, which makes it a good choice if you don’t tend to move your keyboard around. On the other hand, some people prefer the look of plastic cases, which are also usually cheaper. Some cases come with a fitting plate, which is the piece that holds the keyboard switches in place, but you can also just look for a case that has an integrated plate. Pick the model, color, and material you like the most—just make sure the case has a mini-USB slot for the control board.

For those who choose to 3D print their own case, I recommend using FedorSosnin’s SiCK-68 tada68 ‘thing’ from Thingiverse. It is well-designed and the printing instructions are easy to follow. If you’re more advanced when it comes to 3D printing, you can alter the Thingiverse design or make one from scratch using the swillkb Plate & Case Builder resource. I personally went with the SiCK-68 build nice and compact, and you can print it in whatever colors you like, but I used silver PET-G filament for the bottom part of the case and white filament for the top. I chose PET-G filament because it’s sturdy and durable, but you can also use PLA, which won’t require you to change the default settings on Ultimater Cura.

When using the SiCK-68 template you’ll need to print some parts separately—the lower and upper case pieces (both left and right), the dowels (to join the pieces together), and the keycaps for the Alt, function, right shift, and CTRL or Command keys, if you buy a standard keycap set. These keycaps are slightly smaller than the Tada68 layout, so you’ll need to make your own to fit the case.

The printing process should be fairly similar for all 3D printers but I used a Creality Ender-3 so I will describe the 3D printing process based on that. If you are using a printer that doesn’t have automatic bed leveling, start by leveling your bed before printing to ensure that you get the best results. I used Ultimater Cura to do my slicing, but you can use another slicer such as Prusa Slicer. You can find the relevant settings I used below—you can use them as a baseline and adjust them to fit your specific machine and filament. If these settings result in a messy-looking print, slowing down the speed should fix any issues.

2. Install the switches. Install your switches into the assembled top half of your keyboard case or plate. We went for the Akko CS Ocean Blue, as they are clicky and very affordable, but you can use whatever switches you like as long as they have three pins and are the same size. 

To install them, make sure all the switches are facing in the same direction and press them into place until you hear a click—that’s how you know they are secured.

3. Solder the switches to the diodes. Now you need to start setting up your keyboard’s control system, which allows the signal of a pressed key to travel from the right switch to the control board. The first step is to solder diodes to the pins of your switches. 

Diodes usually come in sets of 100, but you’ll only need 68—one for each key. This will leave you with a lot of room for error if you need it. These delicate components ensure that current only flows in one direction so that there are no loops that will end up frying your keyboard or causing your machine to register the wrong key. 

Start off by identifying which end is the cathode of the diode—you’ll recognize it by the black band painted on the body. Use your wirecutter to trim the cathode down to 1/2-inch and solder it to the left pin of a switch. Repeat the process with all remaining switches and finish up by trimming the remaining ends of the diodes to 1/2-inch.

5. Connect each column of switches with a wire. Measure up, cut, and strip 15 shorter pieces of stripped solid core wire long enough to span the length of the columns of your keyboard. Solder one piece of wire to the right pin of each switch in the first column and repeat for all columns.

6. Connect your rainbow wires to the row and column wires. Strip the ends of five wires from your rainbow wire spool, and solder them onto the ends of each row of wire. You can choose the right or left end of the row wires, but whatever you do, make sure your Teensy is able to slot into its spot in the bottom half of the case without issue. If you don’t router your wires properly, they could bunch up and not leave enough space for the Teensy and the case might not even be able to close up properly. 

Continue by stripping the ends of a set of 15 wires from your rainbow wire spool and solder them onto the ends of each column wire. 

At this point, the back of your keyboard should look something like this. 

9. Slot in the stabilizers and the keycaps. Stabilizers will help, well, stabilize bigger keys, like the left shift key, the backspace, the spacebar, and the Enter keys. Once the stabilizers are in place, you can attach the keycaps to the switches—just line up the cross-shaped slot in the keycap and push it into place. In case you don’t remember where each keycap goes, you can use this layout as a reference.

10. Test the Teensy. Make sure everything works as it should, by going to the Keyboard Tester website and trying out your gadget. You should see the platform registering each stroke as you hit the keys. 

Any issues you run into may be due to shorts—maybe you didn’t apply the electrical tape properly, or it may have been damaged in some places. This is an easy fix: visually inspect the tape to see if there are any issues. If problems persist, then it might mean something is not soldered correctly. Disconnect the keyboard, remove the tape, and rejoin anything that might have separated. 

You might not like the roughness as much as I do (you can easily polish that early on in the process), but the action of the switches and keycaps is quick and polished, so the texture doesn’t compromise the gadget’s performance. The Akko CS Ocean Blue switches are very tactile and clicky, which I personally love, but if you want something quieter, then there are other options out there.

I am a new convert to mechanical keyboards and thanks to this build there’s no way I’m going back to a membrane keyboard. This is a basic build but you don’t have to stop here. You can build one to use at home and one for the office. You can add more customizations like different colored keycaps and you can even add LEDs. The sky’s the limit.

The post Build a mechanical keyboard from scratch with 3D-printed components appeared first on Popular Science.

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This article was originally featured on The Conversation.

For many Americans, pumpkins mean that fall is here. In anticipation, coffee shops, restaurants and grocery stores start their pumpkin flavor promotions in late August, a month before autumn officially begins. And shoppers start buying fresh decorative winter produce, such as pumpkins and turban squash, in the hot, sultry days of late summer.

But these fruits – yes, botanically, pumpkins and squash are fruits–don’t last forever. And they may not even make it to Halloween if you buy and carve them too early.

As a plant pathologist, gardener and self-described pumpkin fanatic, I have both boldly succeeded and miserably failed at growing, properly carving and keeping these iconic winter squash in their prime through the end of October. Here are some tips that can help your epic carving outlast the Day of the Dead.

Pick a healthy pumpkin and transport it carefully

This may seem obvious, but shop for a pumpkin in the same way that you shop the produce aisle. Whether you plan to carve them or not, choose pumpkins that are not damaged, dented or diseased. Is the stem loose? Is there a clear break in the rind? Are there any water-soaked spots on the exterior?

Post-harvest diseases–those that occur after the pumpkin is removed from the vine–can happen anywhere between the field where they were grown and your front step. A bruise or crack will allow opportunistic fungi, bacteria, water molds and small insects to invade and colonize your pumpkins. Keeping the rind defect-free and stem intact ensures your prized pumpkin a longer shelf life.

The trip home also matters. Most of us transport pets, kids, muddy hiking boots and food in our cars, which makes our vehicles giant petri dishes harboring common environmental molds and bacteria. Some of those microbes could colonize your unsuspecting pumpkins.

Secure your pumpkins en route to your house so they don’t suffer bruising or stem breakage. My family often uses seat belts to protect ours. Once home, don’t carry your pumpkin by the stem, which can lead to breakage, especially if it is big and heavy.

Keep them clean and dry

Pumpkins spend most of their lives in fields, developing on top of soil that teems with fungi, bacteria, water molds and soil-dwelling animals like nematodes, insects and mites. Removing these organisms, and any eggs they may have affixed to your pumpkin’s rind, will help preserve it.

To get rid of them, wipe down your pumpkins, preferably with a bleach wipe or two. This is especially important if you plan to carve them: Piercing the dirty rind with a sharp tool will introduce these eager visitors deeper into the heart of your pumpkin. Be sure to use clean tools as well. Microbes can reside and multiply on small amounts of pumpkin debris stuck in the teeth of dirty carving knives.

Even if you are not carving your pumpkin, wiping it down isn’t a bad idea, since it may have small bruises or cracks that are easy to overlook.

ls. As you scoop out the pumpkin’s innards, thoroughly inspect the inside walls for soft rotten patches or dark tissues, which may have been colonized pre- or post-harvest by bacteria, fungi or water molds. Diseased pumpkins sometimes produce an off-putting smell, so use your nose as well.

If you find these issues as you carve, you may want to try carving another pumpkin. You can also paint your pumpkins instead of carving them, which averts the need to peer inside.

Some online tutorials and YouTube videos recommend thinning out pumpkins’ walls to better allow candle or LED light to pass through. But if you make the walls too thin, your jack-o’-lantern’s fangs will become inward-curving skin tabs as the pulp desiccates and deforms. A toothless jack-o’-lantern scares no one.

Another advantage of maintaining thicker walls is that it enables you to try a 3D carving. This involves shaping the pumpkin’s surface as you would carve a piece of wood, without breaking through the shell, and can produce dramatic results.

Some people soak their carved pumpkins in diluted bleach or vinegar water after completing them. But this technique is a double-edged sword: Adding more free moisture to your masterpiece invites windblown mold spores and rain-splashed bacteria to colonize it. However, applying a light coating of petroleum jelly or vegetable oil to all the exposed parts can extend the shelf life of your sculpted squash.

Protect your creation

October is a wet month with frequent rains in many parts of the U.S. Rain falling on your jack-o’-lantern will invite every mold in the neighborhood to take up residency in or on it. For this reason, I recommend keeping your pumpkins on a covered porch or displaying them from indoors in a window.

It’s OK if some mold forms inside it, as not all fungi cause soft rots–diseases that produce wet spots that spread, become mushy and turn black. If a pumpkin does become overly moldy on the inside walls, move it outdoors to avoid producing a lot of spores in your home.

When your pumpkin does start to mold and collapse, don’t throw it in a landfill. Put it out for your neighborhood deer or atop your compost pile. Or find a spot in your yard where you can watch it degrade over time, until it turns back to soil in time for next year’s pumpkin patch.

Matt Kasson receives funding from the National Science Foundation, The National Geographic Society and the U.S. Department of Agriculture. He is an active member of the Mycological Society of America and the American Phytopathological Society.

The post How to keep your pumpkins maggot and mold free for Halloween appeared first on Popular Science.

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If you’ve ever purchased two-by-fours at a big box store, you know very well that not all lumber is straight or flat. Although wood is hard, it can flex, bow, and bend as it dries or is exposed to moisture. Warped wood can be challenging to work with: precision cuts will be more difficult and joints won’t be as strong.

You can also fully mill wood with only hand tools, though that takes a lot of time and practice to do well.

Warning: DIY projects can be dangerous, even for the most experienced makers. Before proceeding with this or any other project on our site, ensure you have all necessary safety gear and know how to use it properly. At minimum, that may include safety glasses, a face mask, and/or ear protection. If you’re using power tools, you must know how to use them safely and correctly. If you do not, or are otherwise uncomfortable with anything described here, don’t attempt this project.

Stats

• Time: 1 to 4 hours
• Cost: None
• Difficulty: moderate 

Tools

• Moisture meter
• Table saw
• Jointer
• Planer
• Push block
• Crosscut sled (or miter saw)
• (Optional) jointer sled for the table saw
• (Optional) flattening sled for the planer
• (Optional) hand plane